The Murphy Builders Site

So when I am ready to final assembly, I just prime (with epoxy primer) using a brush the joint to be assemble? Balance of the ribs, skins, gusset, small parts, ect stay bare? If I decide to prime as an exemple the inside of wings parts/skin, I may be can spray the parts, let them dry and then brush the joints to be assemble or it is too fancy? Cleco do not suffer from the wet primer?
When you prime the rivets, do you dipped down to the top of the head (what a mess on the rivet gun) or just the mandle up to under the head? With the chemical kit I have received from mam, the polyfiber primer reducer is not included, it is probably better to find the original thinner or if you use others epoxy thinner (let me now which one). Do you add thinner for the rivets dipping, and for brush use or only when you spray it?

I know I have a lot of question that probably sound very basic and may be "borowing" ( don't asked me to spell that word!) but it is may be the only aircraft I will have the chance to built and I want as less as possible "regrets" after it will be done...

Thanks to every one

Jean
Rebel 747R



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Hi Jean !

Warren has covered it ! Generally, you wouldn't use any
thinner/reducer with the epoxy - only for spraying, (or possibly
if you wanted to brush the whole inside ...).

We found foil tart tins were great for dipping rivets,
because they are wide enough (about 3") to dip easily, and only
used a small amount of primer. You should only dip the bottom of
the rivet in about 1/8" or so - not all the way to the head,
as you can get too much epoxy that way, making a big mess on
the parts and the rivet gun. Some people prefer the plastic
containers that 35 mm film comes in, as they can be capped &
put in the freezer for up to a week, and are easy to clean...
we just toss the foil tart tins.

The clecos will clean up with acetone on a rag, as will
the skin around the rivet (don't flood the surface with acetone -
it will creep under the rivet & wash out the epoxy !!!) - just
use a 'damp' rag.... Best to clean up right away, as it's very
hard to get off once it has hardened. When you do get to the
ProSeal, just store the clecos in a jar of acetone - that will
get rid of any oil on the clecos, and keep the proseal soft.
(Oil would prevent the ProSeal from sticking properly.)

The technique is to replace every second cleco with a rivet
down a line, one at a time, then go back and back and do the
rest - this keeps everything aligned & tight ...

Of course, you would first cleco everything & drill the
holes out to final size (usually #30), in the same manner -
drill every second hole, one at a time, after removing the cleco,
then replace the small cleco with a larger one, and continuing on.
The more clecos, the better the job - otherwise, you could get large
'humps' in the metal. :-(

Don't worry about the questions - as Warren says, we've
all been there, and it's much better to ask now than regret later !!

Enjoy the building !!
......bobp

-----------------------------------orig.----------------------------
At 08:39 AM 10/29/03 -0500, you wrote:

So when I am ready to final assembly, I just prime (with epoxy primer)

using a brush the joint to be assemble? Balance of the ribs, skins, gusset,
small parts, ect stay bare? If I decide to prime as an exemple the inside
of wings parts/skin, I may be can spray the parts, let them dry and then
brush the joints to be assemble or it is too fancy? Cleco do not suffer
from the wet primer?

When you prime the rivets, do you dipped down to the top of the head (what

a mess on the rivet gun) or just the mandle up to under the head? With the
chemical kit I have received from mam, the polyfiber primer reducer is not
included, it is probably better to find the original thinner or if you use
others epoxy thinner (let me now which one). Do you add thinner for the
rivets dipping, and for brush use or only when you spray it?

I know I have a lot of question that probably sound very basic and may be

"borowing" ( don't asked me to spell that word!) but it is may be the only
aircraft I will have the chance to built and I want as less as possible
"regrets" after it will be done...

Thanks to every one

Jean
Rebel 747R



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Bonjour JP

Jean Poirier wrote:

I just prime (with epoxy primer) using a brush the joint to be assemble?

Qui, assemble wet.

Balance of the ribs, skins, gusset, small parts, ect stay bare?

Qui

If I decide to prime as an exemple the inside of wings parts/skin, I may be can spray the parts, let them dry and then brush the joints to be assemble or it is too fancy?

Qui, but don't bother unless tail areas as discussed

Cleco do not suffer from the wet primer?

Wait till you get to the Pro-sealing! Just wipe off with whatever you're
using for cleaning such as Acetone.
After you get a build up and you will, you may want to clean up using
the wire brush on a bench grinder.

When you prime the rivets, do you dipped down to the top of the head

Just short of the head is fine, as you insert in hole give it a spin and
you'll get enough on both sides of skin. After pulling with rivert gun
some should ooze out and after wipe with your cleaner.

(what a mess on the rivet gun) or just the mandle up to under the head? With the chemical kit I have received from mam, the polyfiber primer reducer is not included, it is probably better to find the original thinner or if you use others epoxy thinner (let me now which one).

I've used lacquer thinner and Acetone without problems.

Do you add thinner for the rivets dipping,

Non, thicker is okay.

and for brush use or only when you spray it?

Sponge rollers work good too. You'' soon know if you need thinner or not.,

I know I have a lot of question that probably sound very basic and may be "borowing" ( don't asked me to spell that word!) but it is may be the only aircraft I will have the chance to built and I want as less as possible "regrets" after it will be done...

No worries, we've all been there and started from the same point..
Bon Chance!
Warren
Moose 029
Dubai, UAE




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