What is the minimum clearance needed between the lower cowl / longerons
and the intake air filter box. I tried for a 3/8 " clearance but
somehow, only achieved only 3/16 " (not sure what happen there ...?).
How much will my dynafocal 0320 E2D shake around? Please advise.
Also, I think I will have to shrink the top front cowl edges where they
meet the nose bowl and I'm not having a lot of luck experimenting with a
borrowed metal shrinker (thick metal seems to works best). I'm now
considering adding a bead of fiberglass( tapered towards front) in front
of the metal edge. Sure would have been nice if the nosebowl had a
joggled trailing edge. Any other ideas?
Clay Smith
Reb 475
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Metal Cowl
-
Wayne G. O'Shea
Metal Cowl
On my Piper nose bowl cowl (as what I believe you are describing - ie you
didn't use the speed cowling) I borrowed an idea from Toby Riley/George
Christie/Lawrence's Rebel #053R with the addition of an alum sheet (.032 or
.040) fitted and riveted to the nose bowl lip. This gives a 1" lip for the
cowl doors to sit flush, or slightly below, the fiberglass nose bowl lip as
well as a place for chafe strip etc for a nice clean look. Not sure if I
have any pictures that I loaded up before, as this was pre digital camera
for me, but I'll have a look through what I have and if need be or you want
I can take some close ups of mine.
Your -E2D will shake around quite a bit compared to a conical mount. 3/16
and if not too much work I'd try to get it up to at least 1/4".
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Smith" <cbsmith@nf.sympatico.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2003 8:07 PM
Subject: Metal Cowl
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didn't use the speed cowling) I borrowed an idea from Toby Riley/George
Christie/Lawrence's Rebel #053R with the addition of an alum sheet (.032 or
.040) fitted and riveted to the nose bowl lip. This gives a 1" lip for the
cowl doors to sit flush, or slightly below, the fiberglass nose bowl lip as
well as a place for chafe strip etc for a nice clean look. Not sure if I
have any pictures that I loaded up before, as this was pre digital camera
for me, but I'll have a look through what I have and if need be or you want
I can take some close ups of mine.
Your -E2D will shake around quite a bit compared to a conical mount. 3/16
and if not too much work I'd try to get it up to at least 1/4".
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Smith" <cbsmith@nf.sympatico.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2003 8:07 PM
Subject: Metal Cowl
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*What is the minimum clearance needed between the lower cowl / longerons
and the intake air filter box. I tried for a 3/8 " clearance but
somehow, only achieved only 3/16 " (not sure what happen there ...?).
How much will my dynafocal 0320 E2D shake around? Please advise.
Also, I think I will have to shrink the top front cowl edges where they
meet the nose bowl and I'm not having a lot of luck experimenting with a
borrowed metal shrinker (thick metal seems to works best). I'm now
considering adding a bead of fiberglass( tapered towards front) in front
of the metal edge. Sure would have been nice if the nosebowl had a
joggled trailing edge. Any other ideas?
Clay Smith
Reb 475
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-
klehman
Metal Cowl
I know what you mean. Moving the firewall back made my nosebowl fit even
worse. Near as I can tell by looking at others, the method that Wayne
mentioned seems to look OK even if you change the angle somewhat at the
nosebowl joint.
I got annoyed and made a new nosebowl with all the correct angles. Well
hopefully any way as I only added the cloth and resin to the mold a few
minutes ago... With my Subaru I was able to reduce the size of the bowl
somewhat which lets the side of the cowl match the side fuselge inward
taper better.
Ken
Clay Smith wrote:
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worse. Near as I can tell by looking at others, the method that Wayne
mentioned seems to look OK even if you change the angle somewhat at the
nosebowl joint.
I got annoyed and made a new nosebowl with all the correct angles. Well
hopefully any way as I only added the cloth and resin to the mold a few
minutes ago... With my Subaru I was able to reduce the size of the bowl
somewhat which lets the side of the cowl match the side fuselge inward
taper better.
Ken
Clay Smith wrote:
What is the minimum clearance needed between the lower cowl / longerons
and the intake air filter box. I tried for a 3/8 " clearance but
somehow, only achieved only 3/16 " (not sure what happen there ...?).
How much will my dynafocal 0320 E2D shake around? Please advise.
Also, I think I will have to shrink the top front cowl edges where they
meet the nose bowl and I'm not having a lot of luck experimenting with a
borrowed metal shrinker (thick metal seems to works best). I'm now
considering adding a bead of fiberglass( tapered towards front) in front
of the metal edge. Sure would have been nice if the nosebowl had a
joggled trailing edge. Any other ideas?
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-
Bob Patterson
Metal Cowl
Hi Clay !
Wayne's got it ! The best way is to run about a 1" wide
strip of aluminum all the way around the inside rear of the nosebowl,
rivetted on about 1" spacing. That will greatly stiffen it, AND provide
a lip to rest the top cowl on.
That dynafocal will hop around more than you would believe !!
1/2" is possible !! To be safe, I'd widen that gap - but be sure to
plug it with rubber baffle material to keep the airflow headed the
right way ! ;-)
If you can, put an extra 3" channel along both sides, with
piano hinge top & bottom - that will let you open both top and
bottom sides of the cowl just by pulling the middle hinge wires.
Makes it really easy to work on - especially nice on floats !!
......bobp
-----------------------------------orig.----------------------------
At 05:07 PM 10/19/03 -0700, you wrote:
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Wayne's got it ! The best way is to run about a 1" wide
strip of aluminum all the way around the inside rear of the nosebowl,
rivetted on about 1" spacing. That will greatly stiffen it, AND provide
a lip to rest the top cowl on.
That dynafocal will hop around more than you would believe !!
1/2" is possible !! To be safe, I'd widen that gap - but be sure to
plug it with rubber baffle material to keep the airflow headed the
right way ! ;-)
If you can, put an extra 3" channel along both sides, with
piano hinge top & bottom - that will let you open both top and
bottom sides of the cowl just by pulling the middle hinge wires.
Makes it really easy to work on - especially nice on floats !!
......bobp
-----------------------------------orig.----------------------------
At 05:07 PM 10/19/03 -0700, you wrote:
What is the minimum clearance needed between the lower cowl / longerons
and the intake air filter box. I tried for a 3/8 " clearance but
somehow, only achieved only 3/16 " (not sure what happen there ...?).
How much will my dynafocal 0320 E2D shake around? Please advise.
Also, I think I will have to shrink the top front cowl edges where they
meet the nose bowl and I'm not having a lot of luck experimenting with a
borrowed metal shrinker (thick metal seems to works best). I'm now
considering adding a bead of fiberglass( tapered towards front) in front
of the metal edge. Sure would have been nice if the nosebowl had a
joggled trailing edge. Any other ideas?
Clay Smith
Reb 475
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-
Wayne G. O'Shea
Metal Cowl
Clay, I took a look in the archives and I did indeed post some pictures of
my FOUR door cowling. It shows the door stop "lip", as seen with black chafe
foam on it. I can take some close ups inside the cowl of the lip riveted to
the fiberglass bowl sometime tomorrow, if you want me to.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <apat@istar.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2003 7:39 PM
Subject: Re: Metal Cowl
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my FOUR door cowling. It shows the door stop "lip", as seen with black chafe
foam on it. I can take some close ups inside the cowl of the lip riveted to
the fiberglass bowl sometime tomorrow, if you want me to.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <apat@istar.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2003 7:39 PM
Subject: Re: Metal Cowl
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*Hi Clay !
Wayne's got it ! The best way is to run about a 1" wide
strip of aluminum all the way around the inside rear of the nosebowl,
rivetted on about 1" spacing. That will greatly stiffen it, AND provide
a lip to rest the top cowl on.
That dynafocal will hop around more than you would believe !!
1/2" is possible !! To be safe, I'd widen that gap - but be sure to
plug it with rubber baffle material to keep the airflow headed the
right way ! ;-)
If you can, put an extra 3" channel along both sides, with
piano hinge top & bottom - that will let you open both top and
bottom sides of the cowl just by pulling the middle hinge wires.
Makes it really easy to work on - especially nice on floats !!
......bobp
-----------------------------------orig.----------------------------
At 05:07 PM 10/19/03 -0700, you wrote:*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*What is the minimum clearance needed between the lower cowl / longerons
and the intake air filter box. I tried for a 3/8 " clearance but
somehow, only achieved only 3/16 " (not sure what happen there ...?).
How much will my dynafocal 0320 E2D shake around? Please advise.
Also, I think I will have to shrink the top front cowl edges where they
meet the nose bowl and I'm not having a lot of luck experimenting with a
borrowed metal shrinker (thick metal seems to works best). I'm now
considering adding a bead of fiberglass( tapered towards front) in front
of the metal edge. Sure would have been nice if the nosebowl had a
joggled trailing edge. Any other ideas?
Clay Smith
Reb 475
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-
Legeorgen
Metal Cowl
Clay,
My E2D on a dyno mount would be OK with a 1/4" clearance but I would go no
less.
Bruce
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My E2D on a dyno mount would be OK with a 1/4" clearance but I would go no
less.
Bruce
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Clay Smith
Metal Cowl
Ok guys, thanks for your responses. Looks like I'm going to have to re-work
my the lower cowl / longerons and rear support bracket to get that extra
clearance around the air filter box. I sometimes wonder if it would be
better to make a fiberglass carb air in-take section that screws onto the
lower front center nosebowl and attach to the rear support bracket ...?
As far as the top front cowl doors fit along the nosebowl problem ... well,
I believe I've gone too far to place to place an aluminum strip on the
nosebowl edge as Wayne described because I already got my doors cut, pulled
down over the lip and drilled to the hinges, so I think my only option now
is to add more fiberglass to the top sides of the bowl just in front of the
metal edge and taper to the front. I really thought that a metal shrinker
would have done the job ... as was suggested by the MAM manual.
...Oh, and thanks Wayne for the offer of more picture to help me along but I
won't need them at this time, but don't put your camera away ... I should be
starting those baffles next month that everyone is so fond of.
Clay
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my the lower cowl / longerons and rear support bracket to get that extra
clearance around the air filter box. I sometimes wonder if it would be
better to make a fiberglass carb air in-take section that screws onto the
lower front center nosebowl and attach to the rear support bracket ...?
As far as the top front cowl doors fit along the nosebowl problem ... well,
I believe I've gone too far to place to place an aluminum strip on the
nosebowl edge as Wayne described because I already got my doors cut, pulled
down over the lip and drilled to the hinges, so I think my only option now
is to add more fiberglass to the top sides of the bowl just in front of the
metal edge and taper to the front. I really thought that a metal shrinker
would have done the job ... as was suggested by the MAM manual.
...Oh, and thanks Wayne for the offer of more picture to help me along but I
won't need them at this time, but don't put your camera away ... I should be
starting those baffles next month that everyone is so fond of.
Clay
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Bob Patterson
Metal Cowl
Hi Clay !
If your doors hang over the nosebowl, it's not too late -
you just trim them back behind the edge of the nosebowl, so they
drop down onto the lip made by the aluminum strip. If you don't do
the strip to stiffen the nosebowl, it will crack all over, too,
from the flexing.
I can guarantee you that if you put them on top, they will
saw down through the fiberglass ... that's what happened on the
prototype Rebel, and that's why Toby went to the lip method. It also
seals better & looks better....
.....bobp
---------------------------------orig.-----------------------------
At 11:48 AM 10/20/03 -0700, you wrote:
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If your doors hang over the nosebowl, it's not too late -
you just trim them back behind the edge of the nosebowl, so they
drop down onto the lip made by the aluminum strip. If you don't do
the strip to stiffen the nosebowl, it will crack all over, too,
from the flexing.
I can guarantee you that if you put them on top, they will
saw down through the fiberglass ... that's what happened on the
prototype Rebel, and that's why Toby went to the lip method. It also
seals better & looks better....
.....bobp
---------------------------------orig.-----------------------------
At 11:48 AM 10/20/03 -0700, you wrote:
Ok guys, thanks for your responses. Looks like I'm going to have to re-work
my the lower cowl / longerons and rear support bracket to get that extra
clearance around the air filter box. I sometimes wonder if it would be
better to make a fiberglass carb air in-take section that screws onto the
lower front center nosebowl and attach to the rear support bracket ...?
As far as the top front cowl doors fit along the nosebowl problem ... well,
I believe I've gone too far to place to place an aluminum strip on the
nosebowl edge as Wayne described because I already got my doors cut, pulled
down over the lip and drilled to the hinges, so I think my only option now
is to add more fiberglass to the top sides of the bowl just in front of the
metal edge and taper to the front. I really thought that a metal shrinker
would have done the job ... as was suggested by the MAM manual.
...Oh, and thanks Wayne for the offer of more picture to help me along but I
won't need them at this time, but don't put your camera away ... I should be
starting those baffles next month that everyone is so fond of.
Clay
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klehman
Metal Cowl
Since you mentioned sawing/chafing, is the cheap cowl chafe tape
adequate? I notice some pricey teflon stuff is also sold for this but
for all I know surgical tape is quite adequate. Yes I'm using a metal
lip ;)
thanks
Ken
Bob Patterson wrote:
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adequate? I notice some pricey teflon stuff is also sold for this but
for all I know surgical tape is quite adequate. Yes I'm using a metal
lip ;)
thanks
Ken
Bob Patterson wrote:
Hi Clay !
If your doors hang over the nosebowl, it's not too late -
you just trim them back behind the edge of the nosebowl, so they
drop down onto the lip made by the aluminum strip. If you don't do
the strip to stiffen the nosebowl, it will crack all over, too,
from the flexing.
I can guarantee you that if you put them on top, they will
saw down through the fiberglass ... that's what happened on the
prototype Rebel, and that's why Toby went to the lip method. It also
seals better & looks better....
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Bob Patterson
Metal Cowl
Hi Ken !
I've used 'em all ! :-) The cheap stuff is fine !
There was some smooth surgical tape that was very nice -
not teflon, though, IIRC....
.....bobp
----------------------------orig.-------------------
On October 20, 2003 05:15 pm, you wrote:
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I've used 'em all ! :-) The cheap stuff is fine !
There was some smooth surgical tape that was very nice -
not teflon, though, IIRC....
.....bobp
----------------------------orig.-------------------
On October 20, 2003 05:15 pm, you wrote:
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*Since you mentioned sawing/chafing, is the cheap cowl chafe tape
adequate? I notice some pricey teflon stuff is also sold for this but
for all I know surgical tape is quite adequate. Yes I'm using a metal
lip ;)
thanks
Ken
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