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Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 4:21 pm
by Mike Davis
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From: <MMoreho699@aol.com>
Message-ID: <21f04374.3574451c@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 14:31:55 EDT
To: murtech@murphyair.com, murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
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Subject: Fuselage Root Rib Placement
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Hello!

Confused regarding placement of Fuselage Root Ribs onto Bulkhead F and the
gusset for the Upright. From 03/14/95 Ch. 13 steps 209-210, Figs 82-83: I
don't understand how it's supposed to go. For fig 82a, the lower flange for
the root rib hits the upright when I try it. For 82b, I don't know what
flange
it's supposed to rest on. For me, flanges also hit each other.

Please see the attached JPEG and I'll send another so it won't be
compressed.

If you can't view it, let me know so I can make changes.

also, the flange that needs to be flattened on the root rib is the top one
on
the curved portion right?

Thanks,
Dan




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Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 4:51 pm
by Mike Davis
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Tim Carter wrote:
Dave:

Do you have details of your changes to the bungee gear? Specs, drawings,
etc...? I plan to use the bungee gear and would be interested in your
improvements to it.

Tim C
#438R
Tim,
What I did was copy the gear exactly to Chrome moly tube. Doubled and all.
Then instead of drilling and wrapping the bungees around a bolt I took 1"
tube,
welded large washers on the ends and welded these to the leg. Then I took a
smaller tube and welded an angle brace back from the washer end back to the
leg. The slide tube inside then could extend much farther into the leg. I
took it all the way to the bottom of the leg. It took quite a bit of
polishing
to make the parts slide well after welding to the outside of the tube but
now I
have a full length doubler. Since I was the cause of the "Cable AD" I opted
to
replace it with a solid 3\8" bolt. That would take some time to explain but
I
have a long 3\8" bolt that slides through an internal washer. At max
extension
it encounters a stop. The gear is naturally heavier, but I won't spend my
winters rebuilding because of it breaking. If you want more send me a
private
mail and I will fax you a drawing or something.

Dave Bangle #42




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Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 4:52 pm
by Mike Davis
Received: from tim - 153.34.164.197 by email.msn.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC;
Mon, 30 Nov 1998 12:04:36 -0800
Reply-To: <tlcarter@msn.com>
From: "Tim Carter" <tlcarter@email.msn.com>
To: "'Rebel Builder's Group List'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject:
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 11:50:26 -0800
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Joel:

SealPak (which is what came with my kit) makes two grades of 'Proseal'. One
is spatula-grade, thicker than peanut butter, and one is brushable-grade,
like honey.

I believe they are designated B2 for the spatula-grade and A2 for the
brushable-grade, with the "2" representing a 2 hour cure.

I have used both...the thick for the primary seal, and the thin for the
topcoat over rivet heads, etc.

I believe the thin will work better for you with no wavy lines in the skin.

SealPak:
316-942-6211

TimC
#438R


P.S.

My tanks are all sealed up with plugs while in storage, and they go 'whoosh'
when I open them after sitting thru some changes in barometric pressure...I
hope that means no leaks!!



-----Original Message-----
From: Joel Jacobs [mailto:jj@netexp.net]
Sent: Monday, November 30, 1998 9:15 AM
To: Murphy Rebel
Subject: Re: .Re: strengthening cabin/firewall



-----Original Message-----
From: subersys <subersys@nidlink.com>
To: (Murphy Rebel) <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Sunday, November 29, 1998 3:30 PM
Subject: Re: .Re: strengthening cabin/firewall

While Bob Patterson is a strong believer in the Stits epoxy that Murphy
sells as a
bonding agent, I have taken many parts that were put together wet and
riveted wet
as suggested by a lot of guys. All parts just fell apart. While a lot of
guys
may groan when they read this, consider Pro Seal. I Pro Sealed my entire
fusalage

Dave,
Did you thin the proseal at all? I've found that the stuff is so thick that
if you are not careful, you can get a little waivyness in the rivet line
because it don't squeeze out so good.

Joel

No Title

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 4:52 pm
by Mike Davis
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From: "Joel Jacobs" <jj@netexp.net>
To: "Murphy Rebel" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re:
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 16:33:06 -0500
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-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Carter <tlcarter@email.msn.com>
To: 'Rebel Builder's Group List' <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 2:54 PM

Joel:

SealPak (which is what came with my kit) makes two grades of 'Proseal'.
One
is spatula-grade, thicker than peanut butter, and one is brushable-grade,
like honey.
Thanks for the tip Tim. When I need it a little thinner, I've used MEK or
Acetone to thin the thick stuff...

Joel

No Title

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 4:52 pm
by Mike Davis
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From: Charles Bailey <baileyca@wa.freei.net>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: Elevator ;Rudder TIPS /nut plates
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1998 16:33:29 -0800
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Hi Johannes and all,
The attached picture is Rev Nut and tool and 4 Nut Plates (one floating type
and 3 others)
Chuck R176

-----Original Message-----
From: JimsRebel@aol.com [SMTP:JimsRebel@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 26, 1998 2:10 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Elevator ;Rudder TIPS /nut plates

Hi Johannes
Nut Plates are the same as "ANCHOR NUT" which are shipped with the kit
under
the part number "F5000-3" or MS21059-3.
The MS number is the common part number used.
The -3 is the size .. 3/16 bolt or -4 for 1/4 inch bolt ,,,,
-8 for a screw size of 8-32
Hope this helps.
Jim JimsRebel@aol.com







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No Title

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:27 pm
by Charles Dixon
Looking for Wayne who wrote the article about the sheared rivets on Howard's Rebel.Please reply.
C. Dixon

No Title

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:57 pm
by Mike Davis
Wray is correct... once you unzip them you will want to click on the
"index.htm" file. This will display all the messages sorted by thread with
the option to sort by date, author, or subject... it's just like you're
viewing it online. The only thing you'll lose by viewing the files
downloaded is the ability to search. But it will certainly be faster!

Mike

At 10:43 AM 9/7/00 -0400, you wrote:
Drew if you don't want to read them while online here
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/ by just clicking on the
appropriate date,
(easiest way) then download them and unzip them. I believe they are all
in the html
format and you should be able to read them with what ever surfer you use
(Netscape etc.)

Drew and Jan wrote:
Hi all I'm new to this list and would prefer to just lurk and catch up on
the archives but I haven't been able to open them. I'm using adobe acrobat
and keep getting an error message no pdf% . can anyone help me? am I using
the wrong reader?
Thanks Drew Dalgleish
Rebel C-FYHO
-----------------------------------------------------
Click here for Free Video!!
http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/

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The Flying Rebels List is for the discussion between
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--
Wray Thompson ...Rebel 306 ...home page http://webhome.idirect.com/~wrayt/
My ICQ number is 29764664


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The Flying Rebels List is for the discussion between
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*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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The Flying Rebels List is for the discussion between
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*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




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No Title

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:57 pm
by Drew and Jan
Hi all I'm new to this list and would prefer to just lurk and catch up on
the archives but I haven't been able to open them. I'm using adobe acrobat
and keep getting an error message no pdf% . can anyone help me? am I using
the wrong reader?
Thanks Drew Dalgleish
Rebel C-FYHO
-----------------------------------------------------
Click here for Free Video!!
http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/

*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Flying Rebels List is for the discussion between
builders and owners of complete/flying Murphy Rebel
aircraft. Archives located at:
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*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




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Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:57 pm
by Wray Thompson
Drew if you don't want to read them while online here
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/ by just clicking on the appropriate date,
(easiest way) then download them and unzip them. I believe they are all in the html
format and you should be able to read them with what ever surfer you use (Netscape etc.)

Drew and Jan wrote:
Hi all I'm new to this list and would prefer to just lurk and catch up on
the archives but I haven't been able to open them. I'm using adobe acrobat
and keep getting an error message no pdf% . can anyone help me? am I using
the wrong reader?
Thanks Drew Dalgleish
Rebel C-FYHO
-----------------------------------------------------
Click here for Free Video!!
http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/

*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Flying Rebels List is for the discussion between
builders and owners of complete/flying Murphy Rebel
aircraft. Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
--
Wray Thompson ...Rebel 306 ...home page http://webhome.idirect.com/~wrayt/
My ICQ number is 29764664


*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Flying Rebels List is for the discussion between
builders and owners of complete/flying Murphy Rebel
aircraft. Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




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Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:35 pm
by Bob Patterson
************************************************************************
* *
* M E R R Y C H R I S T M A S *
* *
* AND *
* *
* A H A P P Y N E W Y E A R *
* *
* TO *
* *
* ALL THE REBEL BUILDERS !!! *
* *
* *
* From Bob & Anna Patterson *
* *
************************************************************************

Our Best Wishes for a Happy Holiday, and a fun-filled summer in the
coming New Year !!

Hope to see you at the next Rebel Builders Meeting on January 14th.


*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
Contributors' page at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/contributors.htm
Visit the book store at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/book_store.htm
Archives located at:
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*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




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Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:47 pm
by donald.cormack@utoronto.c
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From: Don Cormack <donald.cormack@utoronto.ca>
Reply-To: donald.cormack@utoronto.ca
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: chamfered landing gear legs for SR2500
In-Reply-To: <3AACC738.49025EBB@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <SIMEON.10103121104.G@65309486.sgs.utoronto.ca>
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 11:31:04 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time)
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Peter & Monica: I will be very interested to see your chamfered landing gear.
You may just have a sale! See you next Sunday in Brampton.

Don


----------------------
Donald E. Cormack
Vice Dean,
School of Graduate Studies, and
Professor of Chemical Engineering
65 St. George Street
University of Toronto
Toronto, Canada M5S 2Z9
Tel: (416)978-2384 FAX: (416)978-1649
donald.cormack@utoronto.ca




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Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:55 pm
by John M. Ponzio
unsubscribe murphy-rebel





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No Title

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:22 pm
by cgill
Mark,

The air intake was one of the more time consuming parts of our project. I
looked at a lot of different "real" airplanes to get ideas on how to build an
air intake system. The big problem with the SR is the lack of distance
between whatever air box you use and the fiberglass cowl - the short distance
does not give you much room to work in. Here's what I ended up doing:

On the engine/carburetor:
I ended up borrowing several used air boxes from a local salvage yard. It
looks like these were off old Cessna 180's/185's. I took the one with the
most functioning parts and then rebuilt the carb heat flapper and added hose
attachment flanges for two carb heat hoses. I cut the end off of the air box
to shorten it and to get rid of the 90 degree flange on the end. On this
shortened end I riveted sections of rubber sheet that extend out past the
inlet end of the air box about 2 inches on all four sides.

On the fiberglass cowl:
I bought a bracket air filter and housing and riveted this to the inside of
the cowl after cutting out an opening in the air intake part of the cowl. I
might be able to find the part # if you are interested. It was the largest
air filter that would fit in the cowl opening.

Assembly:

When I put on my lower cowl the aluminum Bracket air filter housing slides up
against the front of the air box on the carburetor. The rubber around the
opening of the air box slides around the outside of the Bracket filter
housing. The aluminum Bracket air filter housing does not touch the air box
as this would be a constant vibration wear point. My theory on the rubber on
the end of the air box is that the high pressure in the lower cowl as well as
the air box vacuum would hold the rubber tight enough around the air box to
seal everything up. The only safety check I need to make is when I put on my
lower cowl I check to make sure the rubber is on the outside of the Bracket
housing and that it did not slip into the housing.

I may have photos if you're interested.

Chris Gill, SR#025
-----Original Message-----
From: mark
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 4:07 PM
To: gill@gci.net
Subject: air intake


chris, glad to see ur up and flying, mark kohut sr 2500 #016 here in chicago
have a few ?'s i'm about ready to install my engine io-540 converted to 0-540
with a fixed pitch prop what did u do for an air intake system any pointers in
this matter will be appreciated , look for your reply and great job hope to
have first flite come late spring early summer. mark



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Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:22 pm
by LisaFly99
In a message dated 11/21/01 11:30:59 PM Central Standard Time, cgill@dcsol.com writes:

sr 2500 #016 here in chicago
MARK
Where you located in the Chitown area?
Phil&Lisa Smith
R460
N414D

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Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:04 pm
by Scott & Leere' Aldrich
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