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Removing rivets - WAS: tool kit from mam

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:51 pm
by Bob Patterson
One extra thought on drilling out rivets -

If you're drilling out rivets from a closed structure,
like an elevator or aileron, where you can't remove the mandrel
& remaining rivet stem from the enclosed space, one popular
trick is to squirt a bit of epoxy primer in after the piece,
or on it before it falls free. This will "glue" the rivet stem
to the skin somewhere in there, preventing it from rattling around.

There have been cases of rivet stems vibrating their
way right through skins, wires, and control rods, over many
years of flying, if they are left loose inside !!

Just one more thing to keep you awake at nights !

......bobp

-------------------------------orig.---------------------------
At 03:21 PM 9/26/03 -0700, you wrote:
Yes, that's basically what I have been doing. If the
mandrel doesn't go easily, drill off the head. Usually,
it softens things up enough then, so that a little tap
after that causes the whole thing to go.

Certainly beats the old days before I learned to knock
out the mandrel first. There was many a hole I screwed
up, and had to go to the next rivet size up.

Thanks Drew. I'm always looking for a better way if
there is one.

Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Drew Dalgleish
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2003 7:31 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: tool kit from mam


The one problem I haven't figured out,
though, is how
do you prevent unwanted dimpling of skin on the head
side when the mandrel is in real tight with
epoxy and
you can't get at the backside of the rivet
to support
it.

Walter
Hi Walter
The way I get those rivets out is to drill
the head til I hit the top of
the mandrel then I use a wood chisel to cut
the top of whats left of the
head off. Then I can pound out the shank as
described by Paul.
Drew Dalgleish




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