The Murphy Builders Site

Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:50 pm**

Bought all my tools much cheaper by shopping around, and networking with
other builders who sold me their used tools inexpensively. (After all,
when they finish their kitplanes, they don't need as many tools!) You
will need an air compressor, approx US$300 new, an air rivet puller, say
$70 new, an air cleco puller, say $30 new(?) and a quality air drill.
Used clecos cost me about ten cents each, and you will need AT LEAST 400
each #30 and #40 when you get to the wings. Sheet-cutting snips are
inexpensive...approx $12/set of three at Oshkosh. Get two or three hand
cleco tools, measuring tapes, and automatic sharp pin punches for
starting rivet holes...they are always out of reach when you need one!
Black and Decker Bullet self starting bits...and files. You can often
borrow other limited-need tools from other builders as you need
them...EAA chapter membership is highly desirable!

Hope you have as much fun building as I did!

From: Jean Poirier
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 12:50 PM
Subject: tool kit from mam

Hello!

My Rebel kit (s/n 747R) is ready for shippement. The last decision I
have to take before they ship, is to buy the basic or the deluxe tool
kit. Please let me know....

Jean Poirier
747R

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:50 pm**

Hello!

My Rebel kit (s/n 747R) is ready for shippement. The last decision I have to take before they ship, is to buy the basic or the deluxe tool kit. Please let me know....

Jean Poirier
747R

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:50 pm**

Well I dont know what is included in any of the tool kits they have to
offer...
I have been doing aircraft structural work since 1977 andc i am currently
building a rebel for a client. But I can tell you this much:

A Good quality drill is essential....readily available on ebay. Dont count
on a canadian tire campbell huasfeild model lasting too long....and they are
noisy and use way too much air and dont run as nice as one would like

A 90 degree angle drill is good to have too...almost indespensible really
I also have a 45 degree angle drill which is handy too

Any files you can get a hold of..I mean hand files, rasps etc....I bet they
are about the most used tools I have for building the rebel or any aircraft.

I pnuematic rivet puller ..for sure...they are under $100 and when you
figure the thousands of rivets you're gonna be doing....dont try a hand
puller unless you want arthritis real fast.

get good drill bits.....number 40, 30, 20, 10...I sorta prefer using the 6
inch type.....I find I can control them easier and they dont break as much
as short ones....

any other questions just ask!

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Jean Poirier
Sent: September 15, 2003 3:50 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: tool kit from mam

Hello!

My Rebel kit (s/n 747R) is ready for shippement. The last decision I have
to take before they ship, is to buy the basic or the deluxe tool kit.
Please let me know....

Jean Poirier
747R

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:50 pm**

With the amount of dimpling the normal Rebel requires, the $5 or $10 dollar
one MAM sells that you pull with your hand riveter works fine. IMHO.

Bruce 357R

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:50 pm**

You can also use the shrinker/stretcher when you get to the FUS-27 fuselage
wing root sections that the cabin roof attaches too. You can get by with
fluting pliers, but the shrinker/stretcher gives a better surface to attach
the roof smoothly to.

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 10:08 PM
Subject: Re: tool kit from mam

There are places on the fuselage were you will need a shrinker/strecher or
your skins will buckle and not lay flat on the radii. One is at the float

attach

points. I have seen many a Rebel where the builder did not use one and it

is

very obvious.

Bruce 357R

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:50 pm**

This might be terminology but I used a pair of homemade fluting? pliers
for that. It put waves in the edge between rivets, which seemed
preferable to the scratches and dents left by my shrinker in twenty thou
ribs and such. If I use the shrinker on forty thou material I need to
sand at least 10 thou off to get rid of most of the sharp marks and
scratching.
Ken

Legeorgen@aol.com wrote:

There are places on the fuselage were you will need a shrinker/strecher or
your skins will buckle and not lay flat on the radii. One is at the float attach
points. I have seen many a Rebel where the builder did not use one and it is
very obvious.

Bruce 357R

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:50 pm**

Hi Jean !

Just go with the basic tool kit for now - you
can always get more clecos later !! ;-) :-)

....bobp

----------------------------orig.-------------------
On September 15, 2003 03:50 pm, you wrote:

Hello!

My Rebel kit (s/n 747R) is ready for shippement. The last decision I h

ave
to take before they ship, is to buy the basic or the deluxe tool kit.
Please let me know....

Jean Poirier
747R

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:50 pm**

Opps I just rad the list....I dont think you need a shrinker/strecher....it
isnt really a big deal and it fatigues the hell out of metal if you dont
really know how to use it....it also fatigues the metal when you do know how
to use it....it isnt necessary tho....clecos are about 49cents can$ each so
they giuve you a good deal on those when you consider the ammount you're
getting really...lockwire pliers are fine...but I lockwired for years by
hand...I still do it that way most of the time
yes you do need a dimpling tool...... I dont know what kind they send you
tho...but I good Tatco one is about $300 can.

I havent used a hole spacer....but I think I know what they are talking
about...one of those baby fence types....you dont need it really as most of
the spacing is about 1 inch on the aircraft...ever heard of a ruler???LOL

but I cant reinforce it enough...get a good quality pistol drill...and if
you can afford an angle drill get one of those too..I have a 90 degree
Dotco Collett angle drill I havent used in a while I could part with..tjhey
are around $800 new.....this one works great..and I can let you have it for
$300can

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Jean Poirier
Sent: September 15, 2003 3:50 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: tool kit from mam

Hello!

My Rebel kit (s/n 747R) is ready for shippement. The last decision I have
to take before they ship, is to buy the basic or the deluxe tool kit.
Please let me know....

Jean Poirier
747R

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:50 pm**

Paul..could you please say what brand or type of pneumatic rivet puller you recommend? Thanks

Dave Stroud, Ottawa, Canada
Christavia Mk 1 C-FDWS
Fairchild 51, early construction

----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Chamberlin" <cham@quicklinks.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 6:51 PM
Subject: RE: tool kit from mam

Well I dont know what is included in any of the tool kits they have to
offer...
I have been doing aircraft structural work since 1977 andc i am currently
building a rebel for a client. But I can tell you this much:

A Good quality drill is essential....readily available on ebay. Dont count
on a canadian tire campbell huasfeild model lasting too long....and they are
noisy and use way too much air and dont run as nice as one would like

A 90 degree angle drill is good to have too...almost indespensible really
I also have a 45 degree angle drill which is handy too

Any files you can get a hold of..I mean hand files, rasps etc....I bet they
are about the most used tools I have for building the rebel or any aircraft.

I pnuematic rivet puller ..for sure...they are under $100 and when you
figure the thousands of rivets you're gonna be doing....dont try a hand
puller unless you want arthritis real fast.

get good drill bits.....number 40, 30, 20, 10...I sorta prefer using the 6
inch type.....I find I can control them easier and they dont break as much
as short ones....

any other questions just ask!

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Jean Poirier
Sent: September 15, 2003 3:50 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: tool kit from mam

Hello!

My Rebel kit (s/n 747R) is ready for shippement. The last decision I have
to take before they ship, is to buy the basic or the deluxe tool kit.
Please let me know....

Jean Poirier
747R

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:50 pm**

At 03:50 PM 9/15/2003 -0400, you wrote:

Hello!

My Rebel kit (s/n 747R) is ready for shippement. The last decision I have

to take before they ship, is to buy the basic or the deluxe tool kit.
Please let me know....

Jean Poirier
747R

Hi Jean
Congrats on your rebel kit. I just looked at the murphy site to remind
myself what's in the tool kits. The basic kit should do just fine to start
with. You might wish you had the extra clecoes from the deluxe kit when
you're building your wings but the shrinker strecher isn't neccessary and
it's going to be a long time before you have to safety wire anything. I
used the same campbell hausefeld pneumatic drill that I've owned for years
to build my rebel and my floats. Just make sure to give it a little oil to
drink once in a while. If I'm only drilling a few holes I usually just use
my cordless drill because it's so much quieter and convenient. Lots of
files are good and I also use a 4"x36" table top belt sander to quickly
remove extra material. Keep a pair of leather gloves on top of the sander
so you'll remember to put them on every time you use it. If a piece slips
or grabs on the belt you could get a nasty cut plus removing a lot of
material quickly causes a lot of heat.
Drew Dalgleish

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:50 pm**

Interesting comment on the gloves. I always kind of figured that if I
didn't get the metal hotter than I could hold with bare hands there was
probably little danger of degrading the T6 heat treatment. The sanded
edge gets hotter than where I'm holding of course. I haven't cut myself
working with the sander yet - but darn those sanded knuckles smart a bit...
Hmmm gloves eh?
Ken

snip
Keep a pair of leather gloves on top of the sander
so you'll remember to put them on every time you use it. If a piece slips
or grabs on the belt you could get a nasty cut plus removing a lot of
material quickly causes a lot of heat.
Drew Dalgleish

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:50 pm**

There are places on the fuselage were you will need a shrinker/strecher or
your skins will buckle and not lay flat on the radii. One is at the float attach
points. I have seen many a Rebel where the builder did not use one and it is
very obvious.

Bruce 357R

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:50 pm**

----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Chamberlin" <cham@quicklinks.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 7:03 PM
Subject: RE: tool kit from mam

I havent used a hole spacer....but I think I know what they are talking
about...one of those baby fence types....you dont need it really as most

of

the spacing is about 1 inch on the aircraft...ever heard of a ruler???LOL

I couldn't imagine building without a rivet spacer BUT keep in mind that
when you expand the hole spacer, the row of holes may not be straight! Mine
gets a bow to it. I will draw a STRAIGHT line with a straight edge and then
cleco the spacer on the two end holes and mark the middle holes. When I
remove the spacer some marks will be above or below the straight line. Then
I drill ON the straight line above or below the marks.

Joel

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:50 pm**

I finished my entire Rebel without the rivet spacer or
shrinker/stretcher. But if I was starting again, I
would, without hesitation, buy these tools. I used a
fluting plier, but it is not as neat as what the
shrinker tool will do as Bruce described. And without
the rivet spacer, I wasted countless hours trying to
accurately calculate and mark holes. Also, get lots and
lots of clecos, you'll need them.

JMHO
Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Joel Jacobs
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 7:57 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: tool kit from mam

----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Chamberlin" <cham@quicklinks.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 7:03 PM
Subject: RE: tool kit from mam

I havent used a hole spacer....but I think
I know what they are talking
about...one of those baby fence
types....you dont need it really as most
of
the spacing is about 1 inch on the
aircraft...ever heard of a ruler???LOL

I couldn't imagine building without a rivet
spacer BUT keep in mind that
when you expand the hole spacer, the row of
holes may not be straight! Mine
gets a bow to it. I will draw a STRAIGHT
line with a straight edge and then
cleco the spacer on the two end holes and
mark the middle holes. When I
remove the spacer some marks will be above
or below the straight line. Then
I drill ON the straight line above or below
the marks.

Joel

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:50 pm**

If it's anything like the SR deluxe tool kit, I'd get it (or duplicate it).
May need to get more clecos--I haven't needed more yet, but I'm only
skinning the wings now (and from what I've heard, I'll need more)--plan to
borrow extras when needed from EAA chapter members. The fluting pliers are
quick, just be carefull not to flute too close to a rivet hole--the
stretcher-shrinker is a pretty neat tool (to a sheet metal neophyte) but, so
far, not absolutely necessary. The air rivet gun works great--same one (or
an exact copy) is available on sale at Harbor Freight for around $40 (I
think)--if you're there pick up a couple of boxes of nitrile gloves, chip
brushes and those small brushes for the primering.

I went the cordless Makita route (Costco pack with an extra battery and
charger)--by the time I wear out a battery the other one's ready, and I
don't keep the neighbors awake listening to the air compressor kick on and
off all night. Anyway, after two or three battery recharges, I'm spent
anyway. I'm still on my first drill bits (you will be drilling aluminum with
high speed steel drill bits, and they don't get hot).

If you go the duplicate-the-kit route:

There are always clecos for sale on ebay (or beg/borrow/steal from a
fellow builder).

Get the hole spacer.

You will need the long drill bits--plus spring-type drill stops for each
size.

Deburring tool--the cheapee works fine, but I really like the Avery
Tools unit that I borrowed (for the next five years).

Haven't used the safety pliers yet.

In addition, stuff not included in the MAM tool kit:

Harbor Freight (or similar, read, cheap) die grinder with a small
cut-off/grinding wheel and a set of the scotch-brite type sanding pads (if
they're on sale ~$15, get two--you'll get tired or changing utensils).

Not sure about the Rebel, but a set of reamers (not cheap, but cuts a
nice hole) came in handy for the SR.

My Harbor Freight drill press works great for drilling/reaming/sanding.

Get a decent air compressor--my neighbor's large tank, 1HP was not
enough to pull 3/16" rivets. My Campbell-Hausfeld has no problems.

Notcher tool--I bought a hand notcher and it works as advertised--but
then I bought the Harbor Freight air-notcher. Still use the hand notcher for
close work.

Just coming off of a weekend of drilling some of the wing stringers (6
stringers X 140-ish holes per X 2 passes per), and the Makita is still
working. Now I get to start (and finish) the leading edge stringers, then
deburr.

Congratulations on your purchase.

Rick Besecker

2154 E Trenton Ave

Fresno CA 93720

(559) 297-8361

rbesecker@comcast.net

Murphy SR2500 178SR-1

"Jean Poirier" <oxyport@globetrotter.net> wrote in message
news:001101c37bc2$a8bf0a30$0500000a@JEAN...

Hello!

My Rebel kit (s/n 747R) is ready for shippement. The last decision I have

to take before they ship, is to buy the basic or the deluxe tool kit.
Please let me know....

Jean Poirier
747R

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