The Murphy Builders Site

We are fitting our "Speed Cowl" and have cut it to fit fine at the
spinner area and at the firewall end. The parts are: top CO-39, bottom
CO-42. There is a misfit at both outer air intakes. The left side has
the top 3/4" aft of the bottom and the right is 5/8" aft at the point
where they should match. Looking down from above, the top cowl air
intake lip moves to the rear with respect to the bottom cowl lip as it
proceeds outboard resulting in the mismatch. Since there are located
fore and aft by the plane of the spinner area major fiberglass work
would be required to correct. It looks like the top and bottom came
from two mismatched molds.

Has anyone else had this problem? If so, how did you resolve it?
Thanks,
Ralph Baker
Elite 624E




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I would MAM a call. I had that problem many years ago
when I was building. My conical motor mount was
exchanged for one that put the engine 1 1/2 inches
higher, and the cowl then had to be changed as well. I
know since then the cowls have changed, so don't really
know the latest. But maybe a little fibreglass work
might fix it up.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Ralph Baker
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2003 8:12 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Elite cowl


We are fitting our "Speed Cowl" and have cut
it to fit fine at the
spinner area and at the firewall end. The
parts are: top CO-39, bottom
CO-42. There is a misfit at both outer air
intakes. The left side has
the top 3/4" aft of the bottom and the right
is 5/8" aft at the point
where they should match. Looking down from
above, the top cowl air
intake lip moves to the rear with respect to
the bottom cowl lip as it
proceeds outboard resulting in the mismatch.
Since there are located
fore and aft by the plane of the spinner
area major fiberglass work
would be required to correct. It looks like
the top and bottom came
from two mismatched molds.

Has anyone else had this problem? If so,
how did you resolve it?
Thanks,
Ralph Baker
Elite 624E




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Hi Ralph,

Sounds like your Elite is coming along swell. The sped cowl is difficult to
fit and cut but take your time and play with before you do any cutting. I did
manage to fit mine after experiencing a similar situation as you are describing.

In any case, there was someone on the list not to long ago (a few months,
maybe), I can't remember who, that had this problem and I believe as it turned
out MAM had sent them the wrong speed cowl, or something. A read back in the
archives may shed some light on your problem. Good luck and stick with it.

Bruce 357R



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Alan,
I believe we will get the first Elite cowl off the new mould. We are
using an O-360 but my guess is that the new cowl will be for O-320 and
O-360 installation. It will be a one piece (so top and bottom are sure
to fit each other) and will be cut apart and a fiberglass flange
constructed in the field for mounting. This will eliminate aluminum
sheet and hinges at the joint unless 1/4 turn fasteners are used in lieu
of screws. We will be using the Van's baffle kit and I will report on
the installation after it is complete.
Ralph Baker
Elite 624E


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I have just received one of the new one piece Elite cowls. At least
there should be no problem with the two halves not fitting. However, I
note two things.

1) The inlets are 7 1/2" x 4 3/4". Are these any bigger than the old
ones? Sean White tells me the old ones needed to be substantially
enlarged, but I suspect the size is unchanged.

2) The carb inlet is centered. Apparently, on the O360, the carb is
offset. Does anybody know of a suitable carb. heat box for the O360, or
any other way of fixing this problem, short of cutting off the inlet and
re-attaching it?

Al Hepburn



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Alan,
I got the first cowl out of that mould. It fits fine so far but I have
not got to cutting the carb inlet. I suggest you not cut out a large
hole in the front before final fitting. It worked well to cut, on
center, just the diameter of the prop spacer. Then when you cut the
cowl in two from front to rear the cowl front locates precisely on the
spacer. It can then be screwed to the wood disc as convienient. Also,
cut the cowl top to length at the firewall end before attempting to fit
the top to the bottom. The reason is that the cowl top will drop
slightly as you cut it shorter and that will in turn lower the match
line. I think the inlets are about the same size as the old cowl. We
elected to leave them as is and lower the cowl bottom if there are
overheating problems along with a "fairing" on the firewall bottom lip
and carrying the cowl bottom back as far as possible past the firewall.
We will also bring the exhaust pipes through holes in the lower cowl to
leave it as much intact as possible. Note also the Forsling carb heat
muff is not a pressure type (no air forced into it) as so does not need
the carb heat dumped out the cowl bottom when not beng used. That means
the dump tube can be cut off the carb heat box and no hole in the cowl
bottom. I did find the cowl is close to the bottom of the carb heat box

We are still considering running the cowl hinge pins in through the
firewall for a neat appearance and not having to deal with them at the
cowl front. In any event the hinge barrels will be on the cowl inside
for appearance.
Ralph Baker
Elite 624E


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Ralph:

I take it you are using the standard Murphy exhaust and carb heat muff (mfg.
by Forsling)? Is your engine the O360, and if so, which carb air box are
you using? Sean tells me the Murphy one is too small for the O360. He
couldn't get enough air into the engine and it smoked like a chimney until
he enlarged the intake and filter. You don't mention any problems with the
air intake on the engine being off centre, so I take it that was not a
problem. I hope the cooling works for you. Sean assures me that enlarging
the intakes cures the whole problem, but that's kind of major surgery on a
nice new cowl, though I must admit he did a fine job on his. I'll try to
upload a couple of pics of his cowls. I'd say the intakes have been
enlarged 50%. I'm also wondering about that piano hinge. An alternative
would be aluminum backing plates and Camlock fasteners.



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Hello Alan,
Yes, we are using the Forsling exhaust and worked with him to better fit it
to the Elite on the left side. We are using a Lycoming O-360A4M. I looked
at it today and the air intake is offset to the left of center. I hadn't
thought much about it yet but will either make an offset aluminum plenum or
a piece of scat tube with fittings at each end. The air box is the MAM unit
as supplied in '97. I will cut off and plate over the carb heat dump tube
on the bottom. We visited Sean last Summer and he does nice work! We are
going to try our "fixes" first as they are simpler and I hate fiberglass
work. If that is not sufficient then on to plan B. We did install the
larger oil cooler from Van's which should help some. My inspiration is an
article on cooling drag that stated that management of exit air was far more
important than intake (ram) area.

As for the carb intake, again I'll wait and fly it first. We will use a K&N
replacement for the Brackett as we have had good success over the years with
K&N's in many applications and the do flow well. The Van's moulded intake
box / large K&N filter / carb heat is very attractive but again looks like
it will take more fiberglass work than I want to do unless required. My
co-builder convinced me not to paint until all the kinks are worked out -
and there may be some.

I was going to use CamLocs around the firewall and down the cowl side seams
but decided on nutplates at the firewall (miniatures fit between the rivets)
and hinge at the side seams. The reasons were that nutplates are cheap,
easy, and easily replaced and the hinges are cheap, easy, and distribute the
loads more widely. With an electric screwdriver the screws come out
quickly. Hinge pins pulled from inside the cabin will be neat and secure.

Just part of the endless stream of decisions that make homebuilding fun. If
you have any more questions or comments send them on.
Ralph Baker

PS- Where are you located? We are in South Carolina.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Hepburn" <ahepburn@renc.igs.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2004 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: Elite cowl

Ralph:

I take it you are using the standard Murphy exhaust and carb heat muff

(mfg.

by Forsling)? Is your engine the O360, and if so, which carb air box are
you using? Sean tells me the Murphy one is too small for the O360. He
couldn't get enough air into the engine and it smoked like a chimney until
he enlarged the intake and filter. You don't mention any problems with

the

air intake on the engine being off centre, so I take it that was not a
problem. I hope the cooling works for you. Sean assures me that

enlarging

the intakes cures the whole problem, but that's kind of major surgery on a
nice new cowl, though I must admit he did a fine job on his. I'll try to
upload a couple of pics of his cowls. I'd say the intakes have been
enlarged 50%. I'm also wondering about that piano hinge. An alternative
would be aluminum backing plates and Camlock fasteners.

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