The Murphy Builders Site

OK guys. Next decision to make. Do I get regular headers, stainless steel,
or ceramic coated? I've been told that "Block Huggers" are what I want for
style. Pros and cons of the various other options? My criteria is for long
life. Thanks in advance everyone.

Mike Kimball
SR#044



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My bet is that, when all is done, you're gonna get real good at welding up
pieces of tubing. Definitely go for 321 stainless. One good thing about
making headers for an auto engine is that you won't see any differential
movement between the cylinders, so cracking will be minimized. As for
finding a set of pipes off the shelf that'll work; doubtful.

Bill Delcambre
Moose 172FB (got my exhaust, already)


----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Kimball" <mkimball@gci.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 10:59 PM
Subject: Headers

OK guys. Next decision to make. Do I get regular headers, stainless

steel,

or ceramic coated? I've been told that "Block Huggers" are what I want

for

style. Pros and cons of the various other options? My criteria is for

long

life. Thanks in advance everyone.

Mike Kimball
SR#044

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At 07:59 PM 8/25/2003 -0800, you wrote:

OK guys. Next decision to make. Do I get regular headers, stainless steel,
or ceramic coated? I've been told that "Block Huggers" are what I want for
style. Pros and cons of the various other options? My criteria is for long
life. Thanks in advance everyone.

Mike Kimball
SR#044

Why not stainless for long life and ceramic coated to lower under cowl
temperatures. How long a lead time do you need for delivery? If you can get
the headers fairly quickly maybe you should wait to see if the
block-huggers will clear your engine mount.
Drew Dalgleish




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What kind of engine are you installing Bill.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Delcambre" <bdelcambre@cox-internet.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 10:17 AM
Subject: Re: Headers

My bet is that, when all is done, you're gonna get real good at welding up
pieces of tubing. Definitely go for 321 stainless. One good thing about
making headers for an auto engine is that you won't see any differential
movement between the cylinders, so cracking will be minimized. As for
finding a set of pipes off the shelf that'll work; doubtful.

Bill Delcambre
Moose 172FB (got my exhaust, already)


----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Kimball" <mkimball@gci.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 10:59 PM
Subject: Headers

OK guys. Next decision to make. Do I get regular headers, stainless

steel,

or ceramic coated? I've been told that "Block Huggers" are what I want

for

style. Pros and cons of the various other options? My criteria is for

long

life. Thanks in advance everyone.

Mike Kimball
SR#044

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BlankHi Larry,

I'm doing the M14-P with the two blade Russian paddle prop. Got my
exhaust from the Kimballs in Florida. It's a work of art! I've got the
exhaust assembled and hanging on my shop wall, as a decoration. Now
that I've also got my mount, I ought to hang the engine, with the
exhaust, on the wall. Figure I'd better look at that wall, huh?

BTW, guys. Got my Glasair for sale. Gonna get a Husky to use while
finishing the Moose. Anyone out there need a 300 h.p. Glasair
taildragger? Guaranteed to keep you awake!

Bill Delcambre






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G'day Mike(s) !

I'm just in the process of fabricating another exhaust system for the Rebel
& the replacement IO-320 ....

This is my 2nd system for the Rebel (the first was for the o-235) , which
by the way worked VERY well & gave no problems whatsoever.

This system is a "4 into 1" ... tuned length header system .. which
compliments the tuned inlet pipes I'm fitting from an IO-360 ... ( more
efficiency IN & OUT)

Some considerations :

321 IS nice ... but very expensive & also prone to cracking as it's only
.035" thick

304 is actually a much cheaper alternative, and is far more readily
available ... any decent car exhaust system shop should be able to offer you
pipe & mandrel bends (without reduced diameters where the curves are), and
if you hunt around, you should be able to get it in .048" wall thickness
(std is .060") which weighs bugger all more than the 321 system !

By the way 304 is a better grade then 316 when exhaust systems are
concerned, so don't be fooled into using the more expensive and LESS
suitable 316 !

Just make sure to have a few "movement / flex joints" in place to stop any
cracking from vibration .... I just use the standard pipe, expanded at one
end to accept the same size pipe
... just like they do the cars, the only difference is that I have two
strong springs on each joint pulling them together. The other way is the
have some mechanism that holds the pipes together without clamping them to
each other rigidly .

Of course if it's a nice SMOOTH running engine & you secured the exhaust TO
the engine itself (so the exhaust shook with the engine & not separately) ,
and you kept the overall length as short as possible, then you could build
the system rigid !

Hope this helps !

541R
(Temporarily out of the skies :( )


Rick & Wendy Harper
16 Tor Road
Dee Why
NSW 2099
Australia
Home (02) 9971 7889
Mobile 0416 041 007

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Mike
Kimball
Sent: Tuesday, 26 August 2003 2:00 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Headers

OK guys. Next decision to make. Do I get regular headers, stainless steel,
or ceramic coated? I've been told that "Block Huggers" are what I want for
style. Pros and cons of the various other options? My criteria is for long
life. Thanks in advance everyone.

Mike Kimball
SR#044



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I wouldn't necessarilly count on small differential port movement as a
significant benefit. The pipes will still expand a lot. Don't forget
that the headers heat up a lot more than the heads and also that
stainless expands more than steel for the same temperature rise. A
design that allows for pipe expansion either by design or by moveable
joints is still preferred even for an inline water cooled engine I think.

FWIW I found that Solar Flux on the back side of the welds was well
worth it even if you purged the backside with argon while welding up
those pieces. Type 304 .049 and .035 stainless was easier to weld than I
expected but you are certainly correct that 321 is the preferred
material for long life.

Ken

Bill Delcambre wrote:

My bet is that, when all is done, you're gonna get real good at welding up
pieces of tubing. Definitely go for 321 stainless. One good thing about
making headers for an auto engine is that you won't see any differential
movement between the cylinders, so cracking will be minimized. As for
finding a set of pipes off the shelf that'll work; doubtful.

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