The fun of temps
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:15 pm
Hi all, just thought I'd finally drop a line to all on the fun and games I've been having.
I have had similar problems to Walter as far as oil temps are concerned, and as we are both running very similar setups, 0-320's with 150hp conical mnts. and Bobp's beloved speed cowl. I am still running the warp drive prop with a dampner. I've watched carefully along with trying stuff of my own, so here goes.
When on the wheels the oil temp was not a concern, cht's were. Opening the bottom of the cowl up and cleaning up the exit around the firewall flange, adding a 1" lip to the front/ bottom of the opening,and a learning curve on the readings you want from a thermocouple under the sparkplug cured that.(See the archives for those details.
Once I began the float flying, I began to have to pay close attention to the oil temps. It actually was kind of a slow increase, not a " you did this and this happened" sort of thing. I really noticed it last year on the way to and back from the big "OSH" last year, and it was evident on the long climb for altitude over the big water. It was a very hot time last year, and I figured that had an impact. Now this year. Most of my flying is vey short hops, lake to lake for sunset, stopping to harrass friends and the like. Lake ops were fine. I began to notice if I cruised at 2450rpm for more than 1/2 hr the temps would begin to rise. Were talking in the 215f range, and even with slowing rpm's and running the mix fat it would not cool. A couple of times i streched my stops to allow for some cooling before I departed. Doing multiple tkof's and landings didn't seem to cause the temp to rise as much but it would rise.
So I went and tried somthing different. My longeze buddies have found a bilge blower that they were using to try and move heat up to ther toes. Nice 3" dia and explosion proof. I took me about 45 min to adapt it to my setup. The result was I had no problems with short hops and on the lake it was never above the 190f it had been on the wheels. So I took it for a nice long ride of about 1.5hr with a long climb. The result? The long climb temps were worse! Now do give me a little credit, I had some suspisions that the fan blades and motor could block the tube, but what the heck it is and experimental.
Now during the installation I had fired up the fan on the ground and I noticed that I really got alot of air bleeding by the shroud to cooler space and I had siliconed the gaps shut then, stopping the blow by. I really didn't think it was that much but it was to much none the less.
So with those results the creative juices began to go(read I was forgetting to keep it simple). Maybe a shroud to get the airflow closer to the cowl outlet. Maybe with a cowl flap! Maybe I need to open the cowl more. and so on. Enough of the long winded speach.
I removed the blower. I found a little better routing for the scat tube. And I took some advice and pulled the vernotherm for checking. Seems the eze's have been having the same oil temp problems on long climbs and found that to be a culprit. Well I did find some carbon junk around the vernotherm and some signs of it not seating properly, so I cleaned it very well and reinstalled it, figuring I'd get the right poop on dimensions if the problem persisted. I am not running an oil filter YET, but I will be soon although I now feel one should remove the vernotherm and clean it with the oil change too.
Results? well, the air temps have been cooler here,75f or so, but my first flight had the temps at 175f! Barley a budge on a 1/2 hr climb! Almost to cool! I think I'm looking forward to a much warmer day to give it a try! That will probably be on the way to OSH again!
Theory? Keep the scat tube arch as clean and smooth as possible. Close all holes and gaps around the shroud to cooler. Make sure your vernotherm is operating correctly and completly. KEEP IT SIMPLE!
Well that's my disortation for now. Next time it will be on the STOL kit. Hope this was fun reading, KEEP AT It,it is worth it! Curt N97MR
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I have had similar problems to Walter as far as oil temps are concerned, and as we are both running very similar setups, 0-320's with 150hp conical mnts. and Bobp's beloved speed cowl. I am still running the warp drive prop with a dampner. I've watched carefully along with trying stuff of my own, so here goes.
When on the wheels the oil temp was not a concern, cht's were. Opening the bottom of the cowl up and cleaning up the exit around the firewall flange, adding a 1" lip to the front/ bottom of the opening,and a learning curve on the readings you want from a thermocouple under the sparkplug cured that.(See the archives for those details.
Once I began the float flying, I began to have to pay close attention to the oil temps. It actually was kind of a slow increase, not a " you did this and this happened" sort of thing. I really noticed it last year on the way to and back from the big "OSH" last year, and it was evident on the long climb for altitude over the big water. It was a very hot time last year, and I figured that had an impact. Now this year. Most of my flying is vey short hops, lake to lake for sunset, stopping to harrass friends and the like. Lake ops were fine. I began to notice if I cruised at 2450rpm for more than 1/2 hr the temps would begin to rise. Were talking in the 215f range, and even with slowing rpm's and running the mix fat it would not cool. A couple of times i streched my stops to allow for some cooling before I departed. Doing multiple tkof's and landings didn't seem to cause the temp to rise as much but it would rise.
So I went and tried somthing different. My longeze buddies have found a bilge blower that they were using to try and move heat up to ther toes. Nice 3" dia and explosion proof. I took me about 45 min to adapt it to my setup. The result was I had no problems with short hops and on the lake it was never above the 190f it had been on the wheels. So I took it for a nice long ride of about 1.5hr with a long climb. The result? The long climb temps were worse! Now do give me a little credit, I had some suspisions that the fan blades and motor could block the tube, but what the heck it is and experimental.
Now during the installation I had fired up the fan on the ground and I noticed that I really got alot of air bleeding by the shroud to cooler space and I had siliconed the gaps shut then, stopping the blow by. I really didn't think it was that much but it was to much none the less.
So with those results the creative juices began to go(read I was forgetting to keep it simple). Maybe a shroud to get the airflow closer to the cowl outlet. Maybe with a cowl flap! Maybe I need to open the cowl more. and so on. Enough of the long winded speach.
I removed the blower. I found a little better routing for the scat tube. And I took some advice and pulled the vernotherm for checking. Seems the eze's have been having the same oil temp problems on long climbs and found that to be a culprit. Well I did find some carbon junk around the vernotherm and some signs of it not seating properly, so I cleaned it very well and reinstalled it, figuring I'd get the right poop on dimensions if the problem persisted. I am not running an oil filter YET, but I will be soon although I now feel one should remove the vernotherm and clean it with the oil change too.
Results? well, the air temps have been cooler here,75f or so, but my first flight had the temps at 175f! Barley a budge on a 1/2 hr climb! Almost to cool! I think I'm looking forward to a much warmer day to give it a try! That will probably be on the way to OSH again!
Theory? Keep the scat tube arch as clean and smooth as possible. Close all holes and gaps around the shroud to cooler. Make sure your vernotherm is operating correctly and completly. KEEP IT SIMPLE!
Well that's my disortation for now. Next time it will be on the STOL kit. Hope this was fun reading, KEEP AT It,it is worth it! Curt N97MR
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