The Murphy Builders Site

Anyone considering one of the longer, cheap, sheet metal brakes...Don't.

If you are building an origami airplane they work fine, anything thicker
than rice paper and you can make nice curved channel. (It is an ATS 36") I
suspect the short ones would work for little dodaders though.


QUESTION: Anyone have experience with one of the larger combo machines? 30"
slip roll, brake and shear? They say they can bend full length mild steel 20
gauge. I think that is about .032. Anyone know what that would do on
aluminum?

Looking for a fathers day gift for..me.

Scott






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Yup, got one!

Bear in mind that the brake is a press brake and not a leaf type. The bend
radius is real tight with the tooling that comes on it. I use the shear
constantly and have made good use of the rolls, too. For the money
involved, it's an extremely useful piece of equipment. Now, all of the
above is predicated on use w/ aluminum. Steel is a bit rough on the
machine, if for no other reason than it's manual (read: muscle) operation.
As long as you don't decide to skin the Moose w/ 3/16" steel plate, you'll
not regret the purchase.

Bill Delcambre


----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott & Leere' Aldrich" <flynski@mwutah.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2003 10:02 AM
Subject: SHEEEET (as in sh#t) Metal brake

Anyone considering one of the longer, cheap, sheet metal brakes...Don't.

If you are building an origami airplane they work fine, anything thicker
than rice paper and you can make nice curved channel. (It is an ATS 36")

I

suspect the short ones would work for little dodaders though.


QUESTION: Anyone have experience with one of the larger combo machines?

30"

slip roll, brake and shear? They say they can bend full length mild steel

20

gauge. I think that is about .032. Anyone know what that would do on
aluminum?

Looking for a fathers day gift for..me.

Scott

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The shear on the 30" combo machine is fine for aluminum up to about
0.040" (or 0.050 with some difficulty) and saves a lot of edge
filing/sanding compared to tinsnips. I wouldn't be without it. Some
lengthwise tweaking/bending of the blade may be initially required to
get it operating correctly for long cuts.

However for bending you must use prebent spacers to get a radius on the
bends. Despite a fair bit of fiddling, I've found long bends to be much
less straight than what I get with a cheap conventional imported 48"
break though. And it is difficult to control the bend angle. Both the
cast iron lifting arms have broken on mine (at the bottom small hole)
while trying to use the break, so I don't consider it useful for working
with steel (or any metal) unless it's thin enough to cut with tinsnips.
I replaced the cast arms with mild steel arms that can tolerate some
tension.

For occasional use the rolls do work. So yes it is a useful but cheap
quality tool that may be useful if you find one on sale for a decent price.

Ken

Anyone considering one of the longer, cheap, sheet metal brakes...Don't.

If you are building an origami airplane they work fine, anything thicker
than rice paper and you can make nice curved channel. (It is an ATS 36")

I

suspect the short ones would work for little dodaders though.


QUESTION: Anyone have experience with one of the larger combo machines?

30"

slip roll, brake and shear? They say they can bend full length mild steel

20

gauge. I think that is about .032. Anyone know what that would do on
aluminum?

Looking for a fathers day gift for..me.

Scott

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Thanks for the input.
Scott



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