The Murphy Builders Site

Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:08 pm**

Steve,
I have not been able to find a distributor for the Warner actuator you spoke
of.
Would you be able to locate the company name you purchased yours from?
Webb site would also be helpful, if available.
Thanks
Guy

----- Original Message -----
From: <stevew@dcsol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: actuator

Guy, I have one coming out of the states for 170 us by parcel post. Best
price here in Edmonton was 300 cdn plus shipping via ups, over 350 plus.

They

come in 12 & 24 volts are about 6 1/2 " long retracted and weigh 1.25 lbs

have

a 2" stroke (available in 2,4 & 6") and has builtin limiter switches that

shut

off and each end of stroke. Completely enclosed and have long life time of
cycles. They also have ones with potentometers (not spelled right) will
indicate their position on a meter. The one I saw in Bob,s plane was added
after completion. He mounted it parrell to the mixer bar and used another
bellcrank to keep the assembly under the window. I am not putting in a

rear

window so I will mount mine at 90* to the bar. Try running a search under
linear actuators on the internet. I'm at work right now but can get the
company name if you need it or can't find it on the internet. They were

made

by Warner Elec. but now distributed by another company. Name escapes me

right

now.

Steve W.

-> Can you tell me more about the linear actuator?
-> Sounds interesting for my Rebel.
-> Thanks

Guy L.

Has anyone used those wonderful

-> > linear actuators with 75 lbs working force/300 lbs static weighing a
-> wopping
-> > 1.25 pounds for flaps? Saw one in Bob DURANDS in Edmonton a while

ago.

-> Very> -> > nice.
-> > Steve W.

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:08 pm**

Guy,
Received mine a few weeks ago and is installed with great satisfaction. Has
a bit more travel than the orininal set up which will allow reflex position
plus you won't loose any angle of flap due to cable compression. Got mine
thru:

Richards Co.
437 Boulevard
Elmwood Park
New Jersey 07407
1-800-929-2992 not sure if was good in Canada (don't know where u are)
201-797-6300

Part No S12-17A8-02 obtained from Danaher Linear 20,000 cycle life $170.
US
SL12 has 80,000 cycle life. Don't know the price of this one.

Mine came thru the mail at a cost of 19.25 for gst and handling.

take care

Steve W.

From: "Guy Lamarche" <helelama@enoreo.on.ca>
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: actuator
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 10:32:13 -0400

Steve,
I have not been able to find a distributor for the Warner actuator you
spoke
of.
Would you be able to locate the company name you purchased yours from?
Webb site would also be helpful, if available.
Thanks
Guy

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:08 pm**

I'm interested in the electric flap installation you guys seem to be
involved in. Can you please supply more information? I'm currently
starting the fuselage of an Elite.

Regards, Al Hepburn

----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Lamarche" <helelama@enoreo.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2003 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: actuator

Steve,
I have not been able to find a distributor for the Warner actuator you

spoke

of.
Would you be able to locate the company name you purchased yours from?
Webb site would also be helpful, if available.
Thanks
Guy

----- Original Message -----
From: <stevew@dcsol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: actuator

Guy, I have one coming out of the states for 170 us by parcel post.

Best

price here in Edmonton was 300 cdn plus shipping via ups, over 350 plus.
They
come in 12 & 24 volts are about 6 1/2 " long retracted and weigh 1.25

lbs

have
a 2" stroke (available in 2,4 & 6") and has builtin limiter switches

that

shut
off and each end of stroke. Completely enclosed and have long life time

of

cycles. They also have ones with potentometers (not spelled right) will
indicate their position on a meter. The one I saw in Bob,s plane was

added

after completion. He mounted it parrell to the mixer bar and used

another

bellcrank to keep the assembly under the window. I am not putting in a
rear
window so I will mount mine at 90* to the bar. Try running a search

under

linear actuators on the internet. I'm at work right now but can get the
company name if you need it or can't find it on the internet. They were
made
by Warner Elec. but now distributed by another company. Name escapes me
right
now.

Steve W.

-> Can you tell me more about the linear actuator?
-> Sounds interesting for my Rebel.
-> Thanks
Guy L.

Has anyone used those wonderful
-> > linear actuators with 75 lbs working force/300 lbs static weighing

a

-> wopping
-> > 1.25 pounds for flaps? Saw one in Bob DURANDS in Edmonton a while
ago.
-> Very> -> > nice.
-> > Steve W.

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:08 pm**

Hi Alan, what did u want to know about the actuators. I'm going to try and
get a buddy over with his digital camera and down load a photo or two to the
files. There shud be messages on the site that just about cover the topic.
Anything specific?

Steve W
#637

From: "Alan Hepburn" <ahepburn@renc.igs.net>
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: actuator
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 23:19:29 -0400

I'm interested in the electric flap installation you guys seem to be
involved in. Can you please supply more information? I'm currently
starting the fuselage of an Elite.

Regards, Al Hepburn

----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Lamarche" <helelama@enoreo.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2003 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: actuator

Steve,
I have not been able to find a distributor for the Warner actuator you
spoke
of.
Would you be able to locate the company name you purchased yours from?
Webb site would also be helpful, if available.
Thanks
Guy

----- Original Message -----
From: <stevew@dcsol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: actuator

Guy, I have one coming out of the states for 170 us by parcel post.
Best
price here in Edmonton was 300 cdn plus shipping via ups, over 350
plus.
They
come in 12 & 24 volts are about 6 1/2 " long retracted and weigh 1.25
lbs
have
a 2" stroke (available in 2,4 & 6") and has builtin limiter switches
that
shut
off and each end of stroke. Completely enclosed and have long life
time
of
cycles. They also have ones with potentometers (not spelled right)
will
indicate their position on a meter. The one I saw in Bob,s plane was
added
after completion. He mounted it parrell to the mixer bar and used
another
bellcrank to keep the assembly under the window. I am not putting in
a
rear
window so I will mount mine at 90* to the bar. Try running a search
under
linear actuators on the internet. I'm at work right now but can get
the
company name if you need it or can't find it on the internet. They
were
made
by Warner Elec. but now distributed by another company. Name escapes
me
right
now.

Steve W.

-> Can you tell me more about the linear actuator?
-> Sounds interesting for my Rebel.
-> Thanks
Guy L.

Has anyone used those wonderful
-> > linear actuators with 75 lbs working force/300 lbs static
weighing
a
-> wopping
-> > 1.25 pounds for flaps? Saw one in Bob DURANDS in Edmonton a while
ago.
-> Very> -> > nice.
-> > Steve W.

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:08 pm**

I was more interested, at least initially, in the modification of the flap
mechanism itself to handle electric actuation. As for the actuator, the
gear on my Twin Comanche apparently uses the motor from a powered seat, so I
though a visit to the local auto wrecker might pay off!

----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: actuator

Hi Alan, what did u want to know about the actuators. I'm going to try

and

get a buddy over with his digital camera and down load a photo or two to

the

files. There shud be messages on the site that just about cover the

topic.

Anything specific?

Steve W
#637

From: "Alan Hepburn" <ahepburn@renc.igs.net>
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: actuator
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 23:19:29 -0400

I'm interested in the electric flap installation you guys seem to be
involved in. Can you please supply more information? I'm currently
starting the fuselage of an Elite.

Regards, Al Hepburn

----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Lamarche" <helelama@enoreo.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2003 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: actuator

Steve,
I have not been able to find a distributor for the Warner actuator you
spoke
of.
Would you be able to locate the company name you purchased yours from?
Webb site would also be helpful, if available.
Thanks
Guy

----- Original Message -----
From: <stevew@dcsol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: actuator

Best
plus.
They

1.25

lbs
have
that
shut
time
of
will
added
another

in

a
rear
under
the
were
made

escapes

me
right Guy L.

Has anyone used those wonderful
weighing
a

while

ago.

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:08 pm**

-----: Re: actuator

I was more interested, at least initially, in the modification of the flap
mechanism itself to handle electric actuation. As for the actuator, the
gear on my Twin Comanche apparently uses the motor from a powered seat, so

I

though a visit to the local auto wrecker might pay off!

Alan,

I adapted a GM power seat drive to my rebel, works fine. But it was a real
pain to get it all into the space.

Used the total drive, including gears, and can manually move the drfive if
the power system fails. Very slow but doable.

It attaches directly to the flap long lever arm, and pulls up on it.
Everything else in the system stays the same, except I took out the cable.
It attaches where the cable was.

I used limit switches on the drive, overload relays at the dash, and hard
stops just to ensure nothing overloaded the existing equipment. The readout
is a sping loaded cable to a little arrow on the top door frame, just beside
my left eyeball.

Why? I had my handle drive slip out on short final on me once. ONCE is
enough. From full flap to 0 flap in 0.1 sec flap.....

Good luck with it.

Phil.
R302

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:08 pm**

Howard's is also a seat mover. I don't know what it came out of, I just
installed it. It's totally enclosed into the side panel under the rear
window. We got rid of the mixer arm all together with his and the mixer
bellcrank is mounted directly to the seat mover and it brings it up and down
to the limit switches. It uses a MAC sender and gauge similar to the elevtor
trim gauge.

Sorry no pictures, was pre-digital and I can't tear the side off Howard's
fus to take some now, as he has (finally) taken "Pocket Change" to the lake!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Stubley" <phil.stubley@sympatico.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 6:09 PM
Subject: Re: actuator

-----: Re: actuator

I was more interested, at least initially, in the modification of the

flap

mechanism itself to handle electric actuation. As for the actuator, the
gear on my Twin Comanche apparently uses the motor from a powered seat,

so

I
though a visit to the local auto wrecker might pay off!
Alan,

I adapted a GM power seat drive to my rebel, works fine. But it was a

real

pain to get it all into the space.

Used the total drive, including gears, and can manually move the drfive if
the power system fails. Very slow but doable.

It attaches directly to the flap long lever arm, and pulls up on it.
Everything else in the system stays the same, except I took out the cable.
It attaches where the cable was.

I used limit switches on the drive, overload relays at the dash, and hard
stops just to ensure nothing overloaded the existing equipment. The

readout

is a sping loaded cable to a little arrow on the top door frame, just

beside

my left eyeball.

Why? I had my handle drive slip out on short final on me once. ONCE is
enough. From full flap to 0 flap in 0.1 sec flap.....

Good luck with it.

Phil.
R302

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:08 pm**

Phil:

I have the Elite, so I'm not sure how similar the installations are. The
flap and aileron are separate. The flap is actuated via a pushrod that
comes off a bellcrank attached to the middle of the cabin rib FUS-27. The
cable goes in a curve from a horn on the flap handle torque tube down to the
mixer arm. The whole setup seems to apply some pretty severe twisting
forces to the cabin roof, and needs extra material at a few strategic points
to minimize flexing of the structure. The installation I am considering
right now would simplify things immensely. I'd put a 1" steel torque tube
across the fuselage in line with the flap hinge, behind bulkhead #9. This
would be attached to the flap horns in much the same way as the aileron
torque tubes in the fuselage attach to the aileron horns at the wing root.
Horns and pushrods inside the fuselage would go to the mixer arm and the
flap actuator motor. No cable, no bellcranks in the wing root or structure
to support it, no flap handle hanging from the roof, and no flexing in the
cabin roof area. I'd put a couple of triangluar doublers on the fuselage
skin behind bulkhead #9, and probably use the same Delrin bearings used for
the flap hanle torque tube.

Any thoughts?

Al.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Stubley" <phil.stubley@sympatico.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 6:09 PM
Subject: Re: actuator

-----: Re: actuator

I was more interested, at least initially, in the modification of the

flap

mechanism itself to handle electric actuation. As for the actuator, the
gear on my Twin Comanche apparently uses the motor from a powered seat,

so

I
though a visit to the local auto wrecker might pay off!
Alan,

I adapted a GM power seat drive to my rebel, works fine. But it was a

real

pain to get it all into the space.

Used the total drive, including gears, and can manually move the drfive if
the power system fails. Very slow but doable.

It attaches directly to the flap long lever arm, and pulls up on it.
Everything else in the system stays the same, except I took out the cable.
It attaches where the cable was.

I used limit switches on the drive, overload relays at the dash, and hard
stops just to ensure nothing overloaded the existing equipment. The

readout

is a sping loaded cable to a little arrow on the top door frame, just

beside

my left eyeball.

Why? I had my handle drive slip out on short final on me once. ONCE is
enough. From full flap to 0 flap in 0.1 sec flap.....

Good luck with it.

Phil.
R302

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:15 pm**

Steve:

This is some very belated input, but it's taken me until now to get to the
stage in construction where I'm thinking about flap actuators. I just paid
a visit to a wrecker's yard and picked up the power seat mechanism off an
old Caddilac, which looks very promising. The seat sliders are aluminum,
and you get two of them, plus three motors for (in my case) $50 Cdn. The
mechanism incorporates a worm drive driving a rack and pinion, and pushing
against it as hard as I can, I can't even get the motor to sound like it's
straining. Travel is around 6 1/2". The whole thing is about 2 1/2" thick,
so should fit in the aft cabin wall nicely. There are no limit switches, but
there are physical travel stops. I don't know how this worked in the car -
maybe there was some kind of over current sensor, but limit switches will
have to be added, and probably also a solid physical stop at the correct
travel, so the worst that happens is a popped breaker.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Lamarche" <helelama@enoreo.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2003 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: actuator

Steve,
I have not been able to find a distributor for the Warner actuator you

spoke

of.
Would you be able to locate the company name you purchased yours from?
Webb site would also be helpful, if available.
Thanks
Guy

----- Original Message -----
From: <stevew@dcsol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: actuator

Guy, I have one coming out of the states for 170 us by parcel post.

Best

price here in Edmonton was 300 cdn plus shipping via ups, over 350 plus.
They
come in 12 & 24 volts are about 6 1/2 " long retracted and weigh 1.25

lbs

have
a 2" stroke (available in 2,4 & 6") and has builtin limiter switches

that

shut
off and each end of stroke. Completely enclosed and have long life time

of

cycles. They also have ones with potentometers (not spelled right) will
indicate their position on a meter. The one I saw in Bob,s plane was

added

after completion. He mounted it parrell to the mixer bar and used

another

bellcrank to keep the assembly under the window. I am not putting in a
rear
window so I will mount mine at 90* to the bar. Try running a search

under

linear actuators on the internet. I'm at work right now but can get the
company name if you need it or can't find it on the internet. They were
made
by Warner Elec. but now distributed by another company. Name escapes me
right
now.

Steve W.

-> Can you tell me more about the linear actuator?
-> Sounds interesting for my Rebel.
-> Thanks
Guy L.

Has anyone used those wonderful
-> > linear actuators with 75 lbs working force/300 lbs static weighing

a

-> wopping
-> > 1.25 pounds for flaps? Saw one in Bob DURANDS in Edmonton a while
ago.
-> Very> -> > nice.
-> > Steve W.

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:15 pm**

Steve and Alan,

I used a seat control out of a GM, Buick I think, but it was a LIFTER. Yours
sounds like the slider part. It ha d about 2.5 in travel, barely enough,
but worked fine. Lots of power. I measured the stall load capability of the
drive. Has a double worm gear drive, no limit switches or controls with it,
but I made the controls belt and braces: limit switches for position, (
just top and bottom) , overload breakers (don't remeber what you call them,
but are available from car parts store,) and hard stops on the drive before
the flaps reach their llimit. So three limits. I also used one of the gear
outputs as a manual input so I can move it, albeit slowly, if the electrics
on it fail. The indicator is a sprin loaded wire in tube to an arrow in the
top door rail just at my head. I run it by time, full trsavel is 5 seconds
for 25 deg. Just count 5-10 15-20 25- to get the amount you want.

The mount drives right onto the flap lever where the original cable
attached.

I'm happy with it. It was a real pain to get a mount in the space
available, but the price was right ( 0 ) except for the time involved..

I don't have any picture downloaded to the site cause I'm not computer
literate for pictures. Need one of the grandkids here i guess.

Phil, R302, flying 5 years.

This is some very belated input, but it's taken me until now to get to the
stage in construction where I'm thinking about flap actuators. I just

paid

a visit to a wrecker's yard and picked up the power seat mechanism off an
old Caddilac, which looks very promising. The seat sliders are aluminum,
and you get two of them, plus three motors for (in my case) $50 Cdn. The
mechanism incorporates a worm drive driving a rack and pinion, and pushing
against it as hard as I can, I can't even get the motor to sound like it's
straining. Travel is around 6 1/2". The whole thing is about 2 1/2"

thick,

so should fit in the aft cabin wall nicely. There are no limit switches,

but

there are physical travel stops. I don't know how this worked in the

car -

maybe there was some kind of over current sensor, but limit switches will
have to be added, and probably also a solid physical stop at the correct
travel, so the worst that happens is a popped breaker.

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:15 pm**

Hi Allan

My friend has tried several times to send me the pictures he took on email
but there is a block apparently on my computor. He works 16 hrs a day and
finds little time for anything but eat sleep and work. I'll try a bit harder
to get them out on the files. I'm am basically computor illiterate so no
doubt I will need help posting them. The travel of the actuator is much
longer than required and no doubt will have to have a good limiter to
prevent any excessive travel. 6 plus inches could do alot of damage if it
ever ran away on u. The size of the actuator sounds quite bulky. There
isn't much room there unless u try and hide some of it in the wall. Price
is right though. I'll try again soon to get the pictures out. I've got to
get some pictures of my floats for a prospective buyer so have an excuse to
have my buddy with his camera over again. Hopefully he will down or up load
them directly on my computor.

Steve W

_________________________________________________________________
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