The Murphy Builders Site

Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:08 pm**

Ouch... I'll get a picture to you of mine installed, I don't recall what the
edge distance was, but there was enough there that I didn't think twice about
it. Of course I used the original half span size... I wouldn't think they
would have made them narrower though, that just wouldn't make sense.

Britt, you bought the newer full span ones, did you have any problems here?

Mike

On 5/24/2003 3:33 AM, MURPHY-REBEL@DCSOL.COM wrote to MIKE DAVIS:

OK well I just drilled out the hinge, rib and attach point holes. With the
two triplers inside the spar I clamped them so the flanges were tight with

the

real spar, one each way. I then drilled all the holes using the main spar as
the guide. Well I just took it apart for deburring and.......... where the
attach point is in the center the 16 holes you drill out to #11 the top four

in one

doubler and the bottom 4 in the other doubler are not even entirely in the
edge?? The doublers are to narrow either that or you shouldn't pull them

tight

against the main spar top and bottom flanges. What should I do? Thanks

again,

Brad

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:08 pm**

OK well I just drilled out the hinge, rib and attach point holes. With the
two triplers inside the spar I clamped them so the flanges were tight with the
real spar, one each way. I then drilled all the holes using the main spar as
the guide. Well I just took it apart for deburring and.......... where the
attach point is in the center the 16 holes you drill out to #11 the top four in one
doubler and the bottom 4 in the other doubler are not even entirely in the
edge?? The doublers are to narrow either that or you shouldn't pull them tight
against the main spar top and bottom flanges. What should I do? Thanks again,
Brad

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:08 pm**

Mike and Brad - I'm just about to break mine out after I finish the Elevator
so I love all of this talk - Sorry I can't help - I did just open the MAM CD
and looked at the picture Chapter 12 SR3500 modification kit-stab.pdf and
the 1619 rivets do look close to the edge - I had tried to get some full
length doublers bent up here in Salt Lake but the "Metal Supermarket"
couldn't figure the bend radius to match the sample I gave them - I ended up
paying the shipping and getting them from MAM. If Brads were bent up a
little wrong without enough radius or too much in the 3/4" direction then
they would be too short as they lay in the web.

Britt

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]
Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2003 4:36 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 3500 horizontal rear spar problem II

Ouch... I'll get a picture to you of mine installed, I don't recall what the

edge distance was, but there was enough there that I didn't think twice
about
it. Of course I used the original half span size... I wouldn't think they
would have made them narrower though, that just wouldn't make sense.

Britt, you bought the newer full span ones, did you have any problems here?

Mike

On 5/24/2003 3:33 AM, MURPHY-REBEL@DCSOL.COM wrote to MIKE DAVIS:

OK well I just drilled out the hinge, rib and attach point holes. With the

two triplers inside the spar I clamped them so the flanges were tight with

the

real spar, one each way. I then drilled all the holes using the main spar

as

the guide. Well I just took it apart for deburring and.......... where the

attach point is in the center the 16 holes you drill out to #11 the top

four
in one

doubler and the bottom 4 in the other doubler are not even entirely in the

edge?? The doublers are to narrow either that or you shouldn't pull them

tight

against the main spar top and bottom flanges. What should I do? Thanks

again,

Brad

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:08 pm**

Brad, FWIW I just measured my installed doublers. Approximately 2-5/8"
(2.625) outside dimension.

However, if the edge distance problem is only those center top and bottom
RV16 rivets I suspect it will have no bearing on the strength of the
doublers.

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Nielsenbe@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 10:57 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 3500 horizontal rear spar problem II

Well I called MAM yesterday and I am waiting for a respose. I measured the
doubler length from the ourside of the bend to the edge of the long side and
it
came out to 2.475 and Brian at MAM said the CAD drawing was 2.48. Britt
since
you havn't used any of your parts yet could you measure the outside width of
your doubler and the inside of your spar?? Thanks, Brad

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:08 pm**

Brad - I measured the doublers at lunch and came up with 2.47 so the same as
you - I also nested the doubler inside the spar and marked the hole to check
the edge distance - 1/32 (so it will be thru the edge by the time it is
drilled out)- Scott is probably right that it will not matter structurally
since you are counting on the angled side to give the beef but you would
feel kinda anxious flying around with a crack (at least you will not be able
to see it if it's on the inside doubler) in your H-Stab rear spar that
started from a point you knew had an unacceptable edge distance - I look
forward to Brians response - Thanks for running with this - Britt

-----Original Message-----
From: Scott & Leere' Aldrich [mailto:flynski@mwutah.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 11:04 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: 3500 horizontal rear spar problem II

Brad, FWIW I just measured my installed doublers. Approximately 2-5/8"
(2.625) outside dimension.

However, if the edge distance problem is only those center top and bottom
RV16 rivets I suspect it will have no bearing on the strength of the
doublers.

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Nielsenbe@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 10:57 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 3500 horizontal rear spar problem II

Well I called MAM yesterday and I am waiting for a respose. I measured the
doubler length from the ourside of the bend to the edge of the long side and
it
came out to 2.475 and Brian at MAM said the CAD drawing was 2.48. Britt
since
you havn't used any of your parts yet could you measure the outside width of
your doubler and the inside of your spar?? Thanks, Brad

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:08 pm**

Brad - Not sure who you are addressing for the kit # - But I just recently
sent in for two extra #403 so I could have full length doublers.

Britt SR194

-----Original Message-----
From: Nielsenbe@aol.com [mailto:Nielsenbe@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 1:12 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 3500 horizontal rear spar problem II

just out of curiosity what is your kit #? That was one thing that Brian
questioned........ because no one else had the problem. I will let you know
what I
find out.

Brad

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:08 pm**

Well I called MAM yesterday and I am waiting for a respose. I measured the
doubler length from the ourside of the bend to the edge of the long side and it
came out to 2.475 and Brian at MAM said the CAD drawing was 2.48. Britt since
you havn't used any of your parts yet could you measure the outside width of
your doubler and the inside of your spar?? Thanks, Brad

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:08 pm**

Scott, thanks for the info. I think your right about the overall strengty but
if that attach point flexes back and forth it might start cracking the metal
around those rivits then rip further. That's my only concern. Brian said I
should hear back from him today. The other quesiton I had was does the 1" rivit
patter continue the entire length of the doubler.... per MAM it does.

Thanks, Brad

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:08 pm**

just out of curiosity what is your kit #? That was one thing that Brian
questioned........ because no one else had the problem. I will let you know what I
find out.

Brad

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:08 pm**

Well everyone I just heard back from Brian at MAM and at some point they did
shorten the long side of the doublers. The holes hitting the edge still means
they are drilled correctly. They said to just smooth the holes up and rivit
them. The question I have now is would it be better to cut a square notch out of
the edge of the doubler so those 4 rivits are not half in/out of the piece?
It would seem better to have them square and solid on the bottom piece rather
than half on a shelf .040 higher than the other half? Thanks, Brad

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