The Murphy Builders Site

Hi Brad,

I'm sure you will still need rivets the entire length... otherwise you're not
really tieing the pieces together that well even with the ribs and hinge
bolts. But this would really be a question for Brian at MAM.

Mike

On 5/23/2003 8:06 PM, MURPHY-REBEL@DCSOL.COM wrote to MIKE DAVIS:

I am just starting and I am getting ready to install the triplers I guess
that fit inside the horizontal stab rear spar. The question I have is the

3500

mod book shows them getting rivited on a one inch pattern just to hold them
together. I think that was written when a shorter piece was used and not the

full

length triplers....... true/false? I just need to know if I need to use that
rivit pattern for the entire length of the spar? There are already alot of
rivits between the ribs and the hinge bolts. Thanks, Brad

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I am just starting and I am getting ready to install the triplers I guess
that fit inside the horizontal stab rear spar. The question I have is the 3500
mod book shows them getting rivited on a one inch pattern just to hold them
together. I think that was written when a shorter piece was used and not the full
length triplers....... true/false? I just need to know if I need to use that
rivit pattern for the entire length of the spar? There are already alot of
rivits between the ribs and the hinge bolts. Thanks, Brad



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If I recall correctly, the short piece between the two center ribs that
sandwiches the rear attach bracket to the spar is called the spar doubler...
so the parts in question here would be a tripler and quadrupler right! ;-)
Anyway, I'm pretty sure what he is talking about here are the pieces that sit
in the C channel of the rear spar... W-139 I believe. On the original SR3500
upgrade they were only half span, but are not being shipped full span.

Mike

On 5/24/2003 5:26 AM, MURPHY-REBEL@DCSOL.COM wrote to MIKE DAVIS:

This is the first I have heard of "triplers" - We have a full

length 'doubler' on the

rear spar. Has something else come from the factory?

Thanks
Jim 083SR/Moose

Nielsenbe@aol.com wrote:

I am just starting and I am getting ready to install the triplers I guess
that fit inside the horizontal stab rear spar. The question I have is the

3500

mod book shows them getting rivited on a one inch pattern just to hold them
together. I think that was written when a shorter piece was used and not

the full

length triplers....... true/false? I just need to know if I need to use

that

rivit pattern for the entire length of the spar? There are already alot of
rivits between the ribs and the hinge bolts. Thanks, Brad

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This is the first I have heard of "triplers" - We have a full length 'doubler' on the
rear spar. Has something else come from the factory?

Thanks
Jim 083SR/Moose

Nielsenbe@aol.com wrote:

I am just starting and I am getting ready to install the triplers I guess
that fit inside the horizontal stab rear spar. The question I have is the 3500
mod book shows them getting rivited on a one inch pattern just to hold them
together. I think that was written when a shorter piece was used and not the full
length triplers....... true/false? I just need to know if I need to use that
rivit pattern for the entire length of the spar? There are already alot of
rivits between the ribs and the hinge bolts. Thanks, Brad

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Well there is the spar and two additional pieces so I guess it's a tripler,
sounds funny though. wish it was just replaced with one thicker piece at the
moment.

Brad
SR222



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more information........... The main rear spar(ST-303) is 2 11/16 (2.712)
inside measurement. The doublers(named in book) ST 403 are 2 7/16 (2.475) outside
measurement. So there is about 1/4 (.218 actual) of space between where the
doubler ends and the other corner of the spar. The second piece of "doubler" is
.040 closer since it's sitting on top of the first one. I just can't figure
out how I could of done it any diffrently. Thanks Brad



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Hi Brad,

I didn't take any measurements... not sure how accurate I could get them with
is all assembled, but I took a good close up photo and uploaded it to the
archives. You can log in and click "New" in files, or here is the direct
link:

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area57/200 ... 3859AA.JPG

As you can see in this photo, there was no problem with edge distance on the
parts I have. You can clearly see 5 layers on each side... 2 external
doublers, the skin, the spar flanges, and one flange on each of the
inserts... one on each side. The edges don't all line up exactly, so it
might look like they aren't tight against each other, but that's just the
photo. You can also see that the 3/16 rivet heads still have plenty of room
to the edge of the inserts.

One thing I was thinking about that you said below... it sounds as if you
have the flanges on the inserts both on the same side ".040 closer since it's
sitting on top of the first one"... the flanges should be on opposite sides,
so they would both have the same distances. Each flange is pulled up tight
to the adjacent spar flange. Just in case the picture isn't perfectly
clear... I put the first doubler in with the flange against the top, and the
sencond one in with the flange against the bottom.

Hope the picture helps.

Mike

On 5/24/2003 4:48 PM, MURPHY-REBEL@DCSOL.COM wrote to MIKE DAVIS:

more information........... The main rear spar(ST-303) is 2 11/16 (2.712)
inside measurement. The doublers(named in book) ST 403 are 2 7/16 (2.475)

outside

measurement. So there is about 1/4 (.218 actual) of space between where the
doubler ends and the other corner of the spar. The second piece

of "doubler" is

.040 closer since it's sitting on top of the first one. I just can't figure
out how I could of done it any diffrently. Thanks Brad

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I would suspect that a phone call to MAM will get you new parts since there
was apparently a problem with them.

Glad I could help.

Mike

On 5/25/2003 2:25 AM, MURPHY-REBEL@DCSOL.COM wrote to MIKE DAVIS:

Thanks for the picture, I had the flanges on seperate sides. If you look at
mine with say just one doubler inserted with the flange on the bottom

according

to your picture.......... the edge is 1/4" away from the top flange on the
real spar. The edge of the metal is right at the rivit line. I didn't

notice

until I was done because that side was down on the bench and I was using

the

other side as the drill pattern. I will be getting a digital camera now so

I can

swap pictures. Thanks for your help/time. Brad

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Thanks for the picture, I had the flanges on seperate sides. If you look at
mine with say just one doubler inserted with the flange on the bottom according
to your picture.......... the edge is 1/4" away from the top flange on the
real spar. The edge of the metal is right at the rivit line. I didn't notice
until I was done because that side was down on the bench and I was using the
other side as the drill pattern. I will be getting a digital camera now so I can
swap pictures. Thanks for your help/time. Brad



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