The Murphy Builders Site

Steve and all, I think I have reprogrammed my cranium on the layering, by
looking at pics from the rebuild on Bernie's Rebel.

I have posted 5 pics to the Rebel Fuselage section of the archives.

I am pretty sure this is not the way it's laid out in the manual to build
this area and Bernie rearranged for a perfectly level clamping area that
worked perfectly.

The forward floor pan should sit against the carrythroughs first.
Then you need to cut a shim for each end the same thickness as the floor pan
(.040?) to fill the area from outboard of the floor pan to the ends of the
carrythroughs.
Then the cabin bottom .020 skin is going to sit on top of the rear end of
the forward floor pan, overtop of the rear carrythrough tube only.
Then a full fuselage width .020 shim sits forward of the cabin floor skin to
keep things level across both carrythrough tubes.
Then the Fus-35 angle sits on top of the .020 cabin floor to about center on
the carrythough assembly and the Fus-452 corner wrap comes back to meet it,
so things are level along the ends.
Then the shim that isn't in the manual needs to be cut to fit between the
Fus-452 edge and slanting back to the Fus-35 angles edge across to the other
side and cut the same over there.
You could cheat and just make these to fit the clamping area if short on
material.
Then the SG-13 goes down on top of the even layer of this .032 shim/Fus-452
and Fus-35.
Then the SG-7 goes down on top of that.

Can also swap the cabin floor skin and .020 shim to sit against the
carrythrough and then the floor pan and end shims. Will work out the same
for levelness and chances are this is how you had the area cleco'd together
since this is how the manual shows to overlap the floor pan and cabin floor
skin when building the old way with bungee gear.

Hope that helps!

;o)
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca


----- Original Message -----
From: <stevew@dcsol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, February 21, 2003 3:44 PM

Hello fellow Rebel builders.

Wayne O finally steered me in the right direction to this wealth of info.

Just

found out last night that MAM screwed up on the seat rail measurements

which

means I did too! Channels are already in.

I have a problem with the assembly of the front lower corner wrap(fus452),

the

corner angle (fus 35), SG 13 & 7. This seems like it could end in one big
mess. Does the angle overlap SG 13 & 7, or are SG 13 & 7 trimmed flush

with

the angle? Do you allow enough material of the corner wrap to remain

under

the saddles for an even layering of material? Has anyone noticed how

close

the saddle holes are to the end of the carrythru's? I related what I found

to

Wayne in the message he sent " Many Questions-Few Answers". Has anyone

noticed

how far in the 5/16 hole is on the photo for the spring gear mod using the
angle? I estimated that it is about 3/8 of an inch which would made it no
doubtly stronger with more material between the hole and the end of the

tube.

I haven't drilled out the saddle holes any larger than 3/32 but am

seriously

thinking of moving them in a bit further. My measurements are exactly as

MAM

has published but I don't like the little edge distance at the end of the
tubes; especially afer reading what trouble has been experienced.

Thnaks in advance

Steve W

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