Many Questions-Few Answers Rebel #637
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:46 pm
Steve, If I'm not mistaken the newer kits have that hole in the Fus-2
gussets already big enough to put a 3/8" fuel line through it. I use it
for the electrics instead, as I run the fuel line under the center of
the floor through the main carrythroughs and along the side of the 5/8"
x 5/8" floor stiffner tube to the firewall. MAM started supplying the
Fus-2's with the one large hole already opened up as people were doing
it anyway, so I presume Darryl wanted to make sure they had a clean
stress relieved hole from the factory instead. You shouldn't need to
open it up any bigger to put a fuel line through it.
As for the Spring Gear installation, not that you want to hear it but,
my only real fix for it is to install the original style drag
brace/bungee gear using die spring tension struts (instead of the
supplied bungee tubes) and Gordon Mohr's pivot inserts at the fuselage
attach ends of the legs. If you are going with the "ala Cessna" spring
gear then read through the Murphy Builders List site archives and gather
all you can and decide how you want to proceed. I used pressure treated
wood blocks to reinforce the 2" x 2" carrythroughs so the bolts could
actually be torqued without just squashing the tubes. Using anything
heavier as an insert is going to destroy the door posts in an extremely
hard gear leg pull. If you don't use inserts you at least need to put
the reinforcing angle bracket on the forward tube, as shown on MAM's
technical site, or any "chuck hole" or snow drift you hit is going to
pull the forward saddle bolt through the tubes.
As for your "relocating the 6 holes...... inside by 3/8....." I take
that as moving the entire clamp assembly inboard by 3/8" on each side. I
think the whole idea for having them as far outboard as possible is to
make sure the gear loads transfer into the upright carrythrough and the
Fus-2 gussets, but don't see 3/8" causing a huge structural effect on
things (but of course that's just my opinion and not gospel !!!).
I have cc'd this to the builders list, but do not know if you are
subscribed. If so great you will see others responses to your questions.
IF not do yourself a favour and subscribe by contacting as follows:
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm To
contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve WHITENECT
To: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2003 9:00 PM
Subject: Many Questions-Few Answers Rebel #637
Hi Wayne, am proceeding with my Rebel and am at a point that I need
some advise on a few things. I drilled SG-13 exactly to the noted
measurements but notice that it is very close to the ends of the
carrythrus. The plate is exactly the proper size as stated in the
Manuel. I then look at the photo from Murphy on the "Spring gear
attachment reinforcement" and notice that the 5/16 hole is well inside
and lines up with the inside row of rivets on the Fus 2. After
measuring the difference, it looks like this hole is 3/8 further inside
than what is indicated in the Manuel updates. This would also give more
clearance from the fus 35 angle which was another question I had. The
SG 2's overlapped the angle by about 1/8 of an inch. There is not
really much in the way of info assembling this area of the fuse- do you
first install the corner wrap to the carrythrus, then the angle fus 35,
then SG 13 and 7. Are the SG 13 and 7 suppose to overlap the angle fus
35? Shud I be making a thicker fus 35 and use a double row of rivets?
I have .032 from the firewall to bulkhead "A" on the bottom. I have fus
70 's on the top front and 10's in the top rear. I have made my fus 9's
as seen on one of your pictures that extent back on to fus 27. I have
all the known mods that I can find plus a little of my own. Shud I be
reinforcing the top forward skin fus 8? If so how, with a couple of
angles?
I have only drilled SG 13 with 3/32 holes. I can't see any problem
relocating the 6 holes for the spring gear further inside by 3/8 of an
inch. It would obviously be stronger and would clean up the bunch of
aluminum gathering at this point and gets away from the end of the
square tubes.
FUEL LINES I would like to put the lines thru the large holes in the
fus 2's. Any problems with opening up this hole? Does it present a
place for future problems? Cracks?
Thanks again for your help.
Steve WHITENECT
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gussets already big enough to put a 3/8" fuel line through it. I use it
for the electrics instead, as I run the fuel line under the center of
the floor through the main carrythroughs and along the side of the 5/8"
x 5/8" floor stiffner tube to the firewall. MAM started supplying the
Fus-2's with the one large hole already opened up as people were doing
it anyway, so I presume Darryl wanted to make sure they had a clean
stress relieved hole from the factory instead. You shouldn't need to
open it up any bigger to put a fuel line through it.
As for the Spring Gear installation, not that you want to hear it but,
my only real fix for it is to install the original style drag
brace/bungee gear using die spring tension struts (instead of the
supplied bungee tubes) and Gordon Mohr's pivot inserts at the fuselage
attach ends of the legs. If you are going with the "ala Cessna" spring
gear then read through the Murphy Builders List site archives and gather
all you can and decide how you want to proceed. I used pressure treated
wood blocks to reinforce the 2" x 2" carrythroughs so the bolts could
actually be torqued without just squashing the tubes. Using anything
heavier as an insert is going to destroy the door posts in an extremely
hard gear leg pull. If you don't use inserts you at least need to put
the reinforcing angle bracket on the forward tube, as shown on MAM's
technical site, or any "chuck hole" or snow drift you hit is going to
pull the forward saddle bolt through the tubes.
As for your "relocating the 6 holes...... inside by 3/8....." I take
that as moving the entire clamp assembly inboard by 3/8" on each side. I
think the whole idea for having them as far outboard as possible is to
make sure the gear loads transfer into the upright carrythrough and the
Fus-2 gussets, but don't see 3/8" causing a huge structural effect on
things (but of course that's just my opinion and not gospel !!!).
I have cc'd this to the builders list, but do not know if you are
subscribed. If so great you will see others responses to your questions.
IF not do yourself a favour and subscribe by contacting as follows:
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm To
contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve WHITENECT
To: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2003 9:00 PM
Subject: Many Questions-Few Answers Rebel #637
Hi Wayne, am proceeding with my Rebel and am at a point that I need
some advise on a few things. I drilled SG-13 exactly to the noted
measurements but notice that it is very close to the ends of the
carrythrus. The plate is exactly the proper size as stated in the
Manuel. I then look at the photo from Murphy on the "Spring gear
attachment reinforcement" and notice that the 5/16 hole is well inside
and lines up with the inside row of rivets on the Fus 2. After
measuring the difference, it looks like this hole is 3/8 further inside
than what is indicated in the Manuel updates. This would also give more
clearance from the fus 35 angle which was another question I had. The
SG 2's overlapped the angle by about 1/8 of an inch. There is not
really much in the way of info assembling this area of the fuse- do you
first install the corner wrap to the carrythrus, then the angle fus 35,
then SG 13 and 7. Are the SG 13 and 7 suppose to overlap the angle fus
35? Shud I be making a thicker fus 35 and use a double row of rivets?
I have .032 from the firewall to bulkhead "A" on the bottom. I have fus
70 's on the top front and 10's in the top rear. I have made my fus 9's
as seen on one of your pictures that extent back on to fus 27. I have
all the known mods that I can find plus a little of my own. Shud I be
reinforcing the top forward skin fus 8? If so how, with a couple of
angles?
I have only drilled SG 13 with 3/32 holes. I can't see any problem
relocating the 6 holes for the spring gear further inside by 3/8 of an
inch. It would obviously be stronger and would clean up the bunch of
aluminum gathering at this point and gets away from the end of the
square tubes.
FUEL LINES I would like to put the lines thru the large holes in the
fus 2's. Any problems with opening up this hole? Does it present a
place for future problems? Cracks?
Thanks again for your help.
Steve WHITENECT
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To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
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