The Murphy Builders Site

Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:46 pm**

I've found small (so far) cracks in the bottom rear corners of Fus-30
on my Rebel similar to those in photo "CRACKED.JPG" in the photo
archives. The visible cracks are actually in the .032 doubler
installed over an intact Fus-30 shortly after completion of the
airplane. I assume the underlying original Fus-30 is also cracked,
hopefully not any worse than the doubler. I think my Fus-30 doubler
installation would be considered adequate - it extends full width from
the tailpost forward past the elevator push rod cut-outs with several
rows of rivets and liberal application of EP-420. Anybody got any
ideas about exactly what kind of loads are causing cracks in this area?
Any solutions other than scabbing on another doubler? I suspect the
cause, in my case anyway, is the side loads from a tailwheel (Scott
3200) that doesn't want to break loose and free swivel. If the airplane
is light, the tailwheel will simply skid sideways on loose gravel or
ice. On dry pavement or soft ground, if I am in a tight maneuvering
situation, often as not I have to get out and push the tail around or
kick the tailwheel loose. I've tried adjusting spring tension, various
types of grease, disassembly and cleaning of the swivel mechanism, none
of which seem to make any difference.

Would appreciate any suggestions or comments.

Jim Callahan
Rebel #180R

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:46 pm**

WHERE IN AK ARE YOU? I HAVE FOUR BROTHERS & FOUR SISTER IN ANCHORGE. YOU MAY
HAVE MET SOME OF THEM, "LEARY'S.

GOOD LUCK ON YOUR AIRPLANE. MY HUSBAND IS BUILDING A SUPER REBEL.

TAKE CARE
CYNTHIA STARR

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:46 pm**

Hi Jim !

Sorry to hear about your problem - this is the first
time we've heard of cracks with the doubler !

You are absolutely correct - the side loads from your
defective tailwheel ARE the cause !! We first noticed cracks
here from heavy sideloads caused by operating in snow and mud.
That was the reason for suggesting the doubler....

Maybe you should send the tailwheel back to Scott -
there are many Rebels flying happily with this tailwheel,
including me. I do grease it every second or 3rd flight, though.
It was hard to adjust to, but this t/w needs a bit of tension
on the springs to work properly - not the 'bit of slack' that
I'd prefer.... and Scott STRONGLY says to use THEIR springs !
It should kick out fairly easily - although I notice mine
breaks a lot easier one way than the other (maybe you have to make
all tight turns to the left/right ??!!) I'm sure you know
the best way to turn is to add a shot of speed & power, use
full rudder, then a jab of brake to kick it out - if that
isn't working, maybe Scott can solve the problem.

As for a fix, I don't know what to suggest.... if it's
really bad, you might be best to take it into the shop & remove
both FUS-30's and replace with a new one with a doubler that
extends beyond the front spring bolt. One thing that will help
is that the current FUS-30's are considerably thicker than the
early ones, so the replacement should last longer.

While you're in there, you might want to check out
the service bulletin on the front fin attach .... one of
Wayne's fixes.

....bobp

--------------------------------orig.-----------------------------
At 11:40 AM 2/10/03 -0900, you wrote:

I've found small (so far) cracks in the bottom rear corners of Fus-30
on my Rebel similar to those in photo "CRACKED.JPG" in the photo
archives. The visible cracks are actually in the .032 doubler
installed over an intact Fus-30 shortly after completion of the
airplane. I assume the underlying original Fus-30 is also cracked,
hopefully not any worse than the doubler. I think my Fus-30 doubler
installation would be considered adequate - it extends full width from
the tailpost forward past the elevator push rod cut-outs with several
rows of rivets and liberal application of EP-420. Anybody got any
ideas about exactly what kind of loads are causing cracks in this area?
Any solutions other than scabbing on another doubler? I suspect the
cause, in my case anyway, is the side loads from a tailwheel (Scott
3200) that doesn't want to break loose and free swivel. If the airplane
is light, the tailwheel will simply skid sideways on loose gravel or
ice. On dry pavement or soft ground, if I am in a tight maneuvering
situation, often as not I have to get out and push the tail around or
kick the tailwheel loose. I've tried adjusting spring tension, various
types of grease, disassembly and cleaning of the swivel mechanism, none
of which seem to make any difference.

Would appreciate any suggestions or comments.

Jim Callahan
Rebel #180R

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:46 pm**

There is another cause for this cracking as well!!

Does you tailspring have any play in it that lets it rock/twist up/down or
side to side in the retainer at the bottom of the rear fin post?? If there
is this in turn helps "work" the Fus-30 until it cracks. Saw this on Mark
Morin's (ex John Bruno's from Chapleau) Rebel when I had it here last year
for a Fus30 doubler installation and some other work. His tail spring had
been allowed to move around in the retainer and this extra movement thus
cracked the original Fus-30. It had no landing damage or wrinkles, just the
cracks as shown in the mentioned "Cracked.jpg" from the tail spring being
allowed to bang/twist around.

As Bob P. mentions the Fus-30 has increased in thickness over the early
serials. I would think that with Serial #180 you may have the latest .032
(mine does at #243), but quite possible that your original Fus-30 is only
.025. That is a 28% difference and it makes a VERY BIG difference as well!!!

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <apat@istar.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 10:36 PM
Subject: Re: Cracks in Fus-30

Hi Jim !

Sorry to hear about your problem - this is the first
time we've heard of cracks with the doubler !

You are absolutely correct - the side loads from your
defective tailwheel ARE the cause !! We first noticed cracks
here from heavy sideloads caused by operating in snow and mud.
That was the reason for suggesting the doubler....

Maybe you should send the tailwheel back to Scott -
there are many Rebels flying happily with this tailwheel,
including me. I do grease it every second or 3rd flight, though.
It was hard to adjust to, but this t/w needs a bit of tension
on the springs to work properly - not the 'bit of slack' that
I'd prefer.... and Scott STRONGLY says to use THEIR springs !
It should kick out fairly easily - although I notice mine
breaks a lot easier one way than the other (maybe you have to make
all tight turns to the left/right ??!!) I'm sure you know
the best way to turn is to add a shot of speed & power, use
full rudder, then a jab of brake to kick it out - if that
isn't working, maybe Scott can solve the problem.

As for a fix, I don't know what to suggest.... if it's
really bad, you might be best to take it into the shop & remove
both FUS-30's and replace with a new one with a doubler that
extends beyond the front spring bolt. One thing that will help
is that the current FUS-30's are considerably thicker than the
early ones, so the replacement should last longer.

While you're in there, you might want to check out
the service bulletin on the front fin attach .... one of
Wayne's fixes.

....bobp

--------------------------------orig.-----------------------------
At 11:40 AM 2/10/03 -0900, you wrote:
I've found small (so far) cracks in the bottom rear corners of Fus-30
on my Rebel similar to those in photo "CRACKED.JPG" in the photo
archives. The visible cracks are actually in the .032 doubler
installed over an intact Fus-30 shortly after completion of the
airplane. I assume the underlying original Fus-30 is also cracked,
hopefully not any worse than the doubler. I think my Fus-30 doubler
installation would be considered adequate - it extends full width from
the tailpost forward past the elevator push rod cut-outs with several
rows of rivets and liberal application of EP-420. Anybody got any
ideas about exactly what kind of loads are causing cracks in this area?
Any solutions other than scabbing on another doubler? I suspect the
cause, in my case anyway, is the side loads from a tailwheel (Scott
3200) that doesn't want to break loose and free swivel. If the airplane
is light, the tailwheel will simply skid sideways on loose gravel or
ice. On dry pavement or soft ground, if I am in a tight maneuvering
situation, often as not I have to get out and push the tail around or
kick the tailwheel loose. I've tried adjusting spring tension, various
types of grease, disassembly and cleaning of the swivel mechanism, none
of which seem to make any difference.

Would appreciate any suggestions or comments.

Jim Callahan
Rebel #180R

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:46 pm**

Should add as well, if your Fus-31 to tailpost junctions 3 rivets have let
go, then there would be an even better reason for the cracks. Have a good
look there, as Bob says first, and good or bad make sure you add the .032
doubler and up the 3 rivets to RV1613's !

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 11:01 PM
Subject: Re: Cracks in Fus-30

There is another cause for this cracking as well!!

Does you tailspring have any play in it that lets it rock/twist up/down or
side to side in the retainer at the bottom of the rear fin post?? If there
is this in turn helps "work" the Fus-30 until it cracks. Saw this on Mark
Morin's (ex John Bruno's from Chapleau) Rebel when I had it here last year
for a Fus30 doubler installation and some other work. His tail spring had
been allowed to move around in the retainer and this extra movement thus
cracked the original Fus-30. It had no landing damage or wrinkles, just

the

cracks as shown in the mentioned "Cracked.jpg" from the tail spring being
allowed to bang/twist around.

As Bob P. mentions the Fus-30 has increased in thickness over the early
serials. I would think that with Serial #180 you may have the latest .032
(mine does at #243), but quite possible that your original Fus-30 is only
.025. That is a 28% difference and it makes a VERY BIG difference as

well!!!

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <apat@istar.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 10:36 PM
Subject: Re: Cracks in Fus-30

Hi Jim !

Sorry to hear about your problem - this is the first
time we've heard of cracks with the doubler !

You are absolutely correct - the side loads from your
defective tailwheel ARE the cause !! We first noticed cracks
here from heavy sideloads caused by operating in snow and mud.
That was the reason for suggesting the doubler....

Maybe you should send the tailwheel back to Scott -
there are many Rebels flying happily with this tailwheel,
including me. I do grease it every second or 3rd flight, though.
It was hard to adjust to, but this t/w needs a bit of tension
on the springs to work properly - not the 'bit of slack' that
I'd prefer.... and Scott STRONGLY says to use THEIR springs !
It should kick out fairly easily - although I notice mine
breaks a lot easier one way than the other (maybe you have to make
all tight turns to the left/right ??!!) I'm sure you know
the best way to turn is to add a shot of speed & power, use
full rudder, then a jab of brake to kick it out - if that
isn't working, maybe Scott can solve the problem.

As for a fix, I don't know what to suggest.... if it's
really bad, you might be best to take it into the shop & remove
both FUS-30's and replace with a new one with a doubler that
extends beyond the front spring bolt. One thing that will help
is that the current FUS-30's are considerably thicker than the
early ones, so the replacement should last longer.

While you're in there, you might want to check out
the service bulletin on the front fin attach .... one of
Wayne's fixes.

....bobp

--------------------------------orig.-----------------------------
At 11:40 AM 2/10/03 -0900, you wrote:
I've found small (so far) cracks in the bottom rear corners of Fus-30
on my Rebel similar to those in photo "CRACKED.JPG" in the photo
archives. The visible cracks are actually in the .032 doubler
installed over an intact Fus-30 shortly after completion of the
airplane. I assume the underlying original Fus-30 is also cracked,
hopefully not any worse than the doubler. I think my Fus-30 doubler
installation would be considered adequate - it extends full width from
the tailpost forward past the elevator push rod cut-outs with several
rows of rivets and liberal application of EP-420. Anybody got any
ideas about exactly what kind of loads are causing cracks in this area?
Any solutions other than scabbing on another doubler? I suspect the
cause, in my case anyway, is the side loads from a tailwheel (Scott
3200) that doesn't want to break loose and free swivel. If the

airplane

is light, the tailwheel will simply skid sideways on loose gravel or
ice. On dry pavement or soft ground, if I am in a tight maneuvering
situation, often as not I have to get out and push the tail around or
kick the tailwheel loose. I've tried adjusting spring tension, various
types of grease, disassembly and cleaning of the swivel mechanism, none
of which seem to make any difference.

Would appreciate any suggestions or comments.

Jim Callahan
Rebel #180R

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