The Murphy Builders Site

Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 4:52 pm**

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Subject: Lower tapered corner panel
From: "Dan Morehouse" <dan.morehouse@netos.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
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HI!

I'm doing the spring gear with the firewall cut back. I've got a problem
involving installation of the lower tapered corner panels (Fus 70) in my
Rebel 280. I upgraded to the 6061-t6 .032. Boy is it tough to roll that
stuff by hand!
I used a piece of 1 1/2" pipe rolling it over and over and over until I got
close to the bend I was looking for. Then I put the 90 degree on one end. It
probably took an hour to do this. Any better suggestions? I don't have a
slip roller.

But the problem came where the 90 degree corner fits to the upright. It
sticks out about 1/4" from the bottom skin (Fus 40) and lower side panel
(Fus 26). I used a crimper on the corner panel but l it didn't take up the
needed slack. It looks like there will be a problem when I attach the angle
piece (Fus 35) to the lower side panel and bottom skin. Any suggestions?

I also went through the archive. That's really neat! Thanks Mike! Is there a
place to upload pictures of work in progress? I'd like to post a couple
small pics of this.

Cheers,
Dan
R280

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<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Lower tapered corner panel</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY BGCOLOR=3D"#FFFFFF">
HI! 
 
I'm doing the spring gear with the firewall cut back. I've got a problem in=
volving installation of the lower tapered corner panels (Fus 70) in my
Rebel=
280.   I upgraded to the 6061-t6 .032. Boy is it tough to roll
th=
at stuff by hand! 
 I used a piece of 1 1/2" pipe rolling it over and over and over =
until I got close to the bend I was looking for. Then I put the 90 degree
on=
one end. It probably took an hour to do this. Any better suggestions? I
don=
't have a slip roller. 
 
But the problem came where the 90 degree corner fits to the upright. It sti=
cks out about 1/4" from the bottom skin (Fus 40) and lower side panel
(=
Fus 26). I used a crimper on the corner panel but l it didn't take up the
ne=
eded slack. It looks like there will be a problem when I attach the angle
pi=
ece (Fus 35) to the lower side panel and bottom skin. Any suggestions? 
 
I also went through the archive. That's really neat! Thanks Mike! Is there =
a place to upload pictures of work in progress? I'd like to post a couple
sm=
all pics of this. 
 
Cheers, 
Dan 
R280 
 

</BODY>
</HTML>

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 4:52 pm**

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Subject: Re: Lower tapered corner panel
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Dan
I used a press and a piece of 2x2 (with a triangular cross section and a
rounded
corner) to press the corner wrap into a chunk of angle iron. Use boxboard or
something to keep the angle iron from scratching the aluminum. This gave me
a
nice 90 degree bend at one end of the corner panel. Yes I also partly rolled
the
panel first. Don't think I realized the part could be purchased in .032 when
I
made mine.
Don't remember what fus-35 is, but do recall using a length of wood and
straps
and jack to force that bottom edge tight against the bottom panel.
Ken

Dan Morehouse wrote:

It looks like there will be a problem when I attach the angle piece (Fus

35)

to the lower side panel and bottom skin. Any suggestions?

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 4:52 pm**

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From: "Morehouse, Daniel G" <DMorehouse@peacehealth.org>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: Lower tapered corner panel
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 07:57:32 -0800
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Thanks for the response, Ken!

----------
From: klehman@albedo.net[SMTP:klehman@albedo.net]
Reply To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 1999 6:10 AM
To: (Murphy Rebel)
Subject: Re: Lower tapered corner panel

I got a 90 degree bend in the corner no problem. Is that what you meant with
your 2x2 process? The 90 degree bend in the wrap would lie flush against the
upright and also flush against the bottom crossbar if the firewall were the
same width as the crossbar. But the firewall is narrower than the cage so
the front rolled end of the wrap is moved toward the center, forcing the
opposite end out from the side or bottom. I can get one flush in place but
not both the side and bottom surfaces.

Dan
I used a press and a piece of 2x2 (with a triangular cross section and a
rounded
corner) to press the corner wrap into a chunk of angle iron. Use boxboard
or
something to keep the angle iron from scratching the aluminum. This gave
me a
nice 90 degree bend at one end of the corner panel.

Yes I also partly rolled the
panel first. Don't think I realized the part could be purchased in .032
when I
made mine.
Don't remember what fus-35 is, but do recall using a length of wood and
straps
and jack to force that bottom edge tight against the bottom panel.
Ken

Fus 35 is the .040 (?) skinny ~2' long angle piece that connects the lower
side panel to the bottom skin. I'm finding it too narrow for my plane. I
don't get the edge clearances. I haven't tried using your method of jacks,
but my squared bulkheads that go across the bottom skin aren't going to move
much. There is about 4mm gap between the end of the bottom skin and the
plane of the lower side panel. I'm thinking of going with a wider piece. If
I go with this I'll have it pressed for the bend.

Just for the hell of it, I tried forming an 040 piece of 2024 t3 (or t4?)
scrap I had with hammer. I clamped the metal down along a straight piece of
steel and whanged away. The scrap was 2' long. I had some bends in the metal
by the time I got done and it ended up getting a curve in it.

Questions about this: Does it hurt the aluminum to bang the hell out of it
while bending? I can see imprints on the surface, sort of like fingerprints
(or dog noseprints) on a window.

Dan Morehouse wrote:
It looks like there will be a problem when I attach the angle piece (Fus
35)
to the lower side panel and bottom skin. Any suggestions?

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 4:53 pm**

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From: "Alister Yeoman" <yeoman@voyager.co.nz>
To: "Murphy Rebel" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Lower tapered corner panel
Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 22:45:06 +1300
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Umm, have I done wrong! I appear to be late into the conversation, but you
appear to be talking about where the lower front corner wrap meets the door
post and carrythrough.

You are right, it sticks out, what I did was drill a 1/4" hole just forward
of this position on the 90 degree bend then trimmed it with a pair of tin
snips, it fits real nice now but the question is has it unduly weakened it.

Any theories out there? I do know that other builders in New Zealand have
done the same thing as me .

Cheers

Alister Yeoman

----------

From: Dan Morehouse <dan.morehouse@netos.com>
To: (Murphy Rebel) <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Lower tapered corner panel
Date: Thursday, January 07, 1999 12:47 PM

Thanks for the suggestion Ken.

I didn't do this on the first corner and tried it on the second. At first

it

seemed like it would help, but by the time I got everything in place

there

was still a bit of material sticking out at the 90 degree end. I really
don't see how I can avoid this. The metal has to go somewhere. Hopefully
it's not a big deal. I'll probably just put a wider angle piece over it

and

live with it.

I'm sending Wray a picture of the first corner attempt. I've got a pic

of

the second corner but it wants to stay in the camera ;-)
..........................
The 90 degree bend in the wrap would lie flush against the
upright and also flush against the bottom crossbar if the firewall were

the

same width as the crossbar. But the firewall is narrower than the cage

so

the front rolled end of the wrap is moved toward the center, forcing

the

opposite end out from the side or bottom. I can get one flush in place

but

not both the side and bottom surfaces.
I had no problem with this. Simply cleco to the cage first. Cleco it to

the

side
panel (ahead of the cage) next. Then I wrapped it around the bottom. This

is

where I used the jack and straps on the corner wrap to pull it up from

the

bottom and around the firwall. I used the original design for the corner
wrap,
just made it from .032. Did you change things to incorporate any extra
brackets
here that could be causing a problem?

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 4:53 pm**

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To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel)
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: Re: Lower tapered corner panel
Message-Id: <E10253r-0003zT-00@mail2.toronto.istar.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 22:09:07 -0500

Possibly, but maybe not a great deal - I wonder if having the metal
pre-stessed by forcing it into position isn't just as bad ???

I guess the answer is just to keep an eye on that area, looking for
bulges or buckles forming around or near the hole. I doubt you'll see
any !! Dents and creases are much more likely to cause problems ...

Just my $150 CDN (.02 US :-( ) <sad grin>

....bobp

--------------------------------orig.------------------------------
At 10:45 PM 1/17/99 +1300, you wrote:

Umm, have I done wrong! I appear to be late into the conversation, but you
appear to be talking about where the lower front corner wrap meets the door
post and carrythrough.

You are right, it sticks out, what I did was drill a 1/4" hole just forward
of this position on the 90 degree bend then trimmed it with a pair of tin
snips, it fits real nice now but the question is has it unduly weakened it.

Any theories out there? I do know that other builders in New Zealand have
done the same thing as me .

Cheers

Alister Yeoman

----------
From: Dan Morehouse <dan.morehouse@netos.com>
To: (Murphy Rebel) <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Lower tapered corner panel
Date: Thursday, January 07, 1999 12:47 PM

Thanks for the suggestion Ken.

I didn't do this on the first corner and tried it on the second. At first
it
seemed like it would help, but by the time I got everything in place
there
was still a bit of material sticking out at the 90 degree end. I really
don't see how I can avoid this. The metal has to go somewhere. Hopefully
it's not a big deal. I'll probably just put a wider angle piece over it
and
live with it.

I'm sending Wray a picture of the first corner attempt. I've got a pic
of
the second corner but it wants to stay in the camera ;-)
..........................
The 90 degree bend in the wrap would lie flush against the
upright and also flush against the bottom crossbar if the firewall were
the
same width as the crossbar. But the firewall is narrower than the cage
so
the front rolled end of the wrap is moved toward the center, forcing
the
opposite end out from the side or bottom. I can get one flush in place
but
not both the side and bottom surfaces.
I had no problem with this. Simply cleco to the cage first. Cleco it to
the
side
panel (ahead of the cage) next. Then I wrapped it around the bottom. This
is
where I used the jack and straps on the corner wrap to pull it up from
the
bottom and around the firwall. I used the original design for the corner
wrap,
just made it from .032. Did you change things to incorporate any extra
brackets
here that could be causing a problem?