I am not quite there yet but am getting ready to start wings and I am
curious if anyone has used an alternative method to stacking shims to get
the wing leading edge ribs to lay at the right level. One of the local guys
that is way ahead of me mentioned what a hassle it was - It seems like it
would be good to have single pieces machined to the right thickness -
Britt - 194SR
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Wing rib shims
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rickhm
Wing rib shims
I can't argue that a single piece would be easier than all the shims, but it wasn't that beig a deal. I also recall that there are several different heights of shims. I can think of several things that were more annoying that that part of the assembly process. Just wait until you get a whiff of that wing tank sealant... It does a great job though. It seals the tanks, your rivet puller, the zipper on your fly, the door knob and it conveniently can't be washed off with anything :-) OK, I digress....honestly, if I had it to do over again, I would go with the shims. Another serious note. You and I have discussed using an auto engine. The standard sealant doesn't work with Autogas. If your going to run autogas, get the sealant that is safe with all the autogas additives. I found out after my wings were done. I could go back and re-seal them, but what a pain.
Rick Muller
SR70
-------Original Message-------
From: "Reed, Britt/FSC Salt Lake" <BReed@slcrail.com>
Sent: 01/22/03 11:20 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Wing rib shims
the wing leading edge ribs to lay at the right level. One of the local
guys
that is way ahead of me mentioned what a hassle it was - It seems like it
would be good to have single pieces machined to the right thickness -
Britt -
194SR
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Rick Muller
SR70
-------Original Message-------
From: "Reed, Britt/FSC Salt Lake" <BReed@slcrail.com>
Sent: 01/22/03 11:20 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Wing rib shims
curious if anyone has used an alternative method to stacking shims to getI am not quite there yet but am getting ready to start wings and I am
the wing leading edge ribs to lay at the right level. One of the local
guys
that is way ahead of me mentioned what a hassle it was - It seems like it
would be good to have single pieces machined to the right thickness -
Britt -
194SR
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Wayne G. O'Shea
Wing rib shims
Britt, it takes a bit of concentration to keep them in order when deburing
and I found using a couple bolts and /or 1" grip clecos were a big help in
holding them in place while drilling. When you go to remove the ribs from
the spar stick a tie wrap through the entire assembly as you pull it off, to
keep everything in the right order.
You could make up solid shims if you wanted to, but the slices of .063
duplicate exactly what the spar doublers have done and the few thou extra
that the sealer etc adds between each layer. You would have to take this
into consideration when/if making solid shims for each rib location. Note
that there are also shims on the main ribs as well, depending on location,
as there are doulbers on the main spar on both sides.
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reed, Britt/FSC Salt Lake" <BReed@slcrail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 1:20 PM
Subject: Wing rib shims
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and I found using a couple bolts and /or 1" grip clecos were a big help in
holding them in place while drilling. When you go to remove the ribs from
the spar stick a tie wrap through the entire assembly as you pull it off, to
keep everything in the right order.
You could make up solid shims if you wanted to, but the slices of .063
duplicate exactly what the spar doublers have done and the few thou extra
that the sealer etc adds between each layer. You would have to take this
into consideration when/if making solid shims for each rib location. Note
that there are also shims on the main ribs as well, depending on location,
as there are doulbers on the main spar on both sides.
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reed, Britt/FSC Salt Lake" <BReed@slcrail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 1:20 PM
Subject: Wing rib shims
guysI am not quite there yet but am getting ready to start wings and I am
curious if anyone has used an alternative method to stacking shims to get
the wing leading edge ribs to lay at the right level. One of the local
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*that is way ahead of me mentioned what a hassle it was - It seems like it
would be good to have single pieces machined to the right thickness -
Britt - 194SR
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brittreed
Wing Rib Shims
I have put together my first wing-spar/rib structure and after following the
directions and making a rib-shim guide, I proceeded to drill the 7 holes in
the next 150 shims. After using the suggestion to group 5 shims together and
use the drill press to mass produce the holes, I was not satisfied with the
consistancy of the shims. After figuring that I had to keep them in order,
drill #40 then #11, and debur both sides (2100 holes and 4200 deburs) I
decided to go to the Metal Supermarket and buy some 1/2" stock in .375 (equal
to 6 shims), .25"(4 shims), .1875(3 shims) and .125(2 shims). The main pain
was shaving .075 off the .375 to make the 5 shim shims - My shopmill took a
little practice but I got it close enough. The metal cost $15 and cut the
holes to about 500 holes and 1000 deburs - It might not sound like much but
they are much easier to keep track of and makes a good looking finished
product. (Think proseal on shims near the gas tank ribs??) This was actually
Terry Lobecheskis (local SR2500) suggestion and I am glad I followed thru.
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directions and making a rib-shim guide, I proceeded to drill the 7 holes in
the next 150 shims. After using the suggestion to group 5 shims together and
use the drill press to mass produce the holes, I was not satisfied with the
consistancy of the shims. After figuring that I had to keep them in order,
drill #40 then #11, and debur both sides (2100 holes and 4200 deburs) I
decided to go to the Metal Supermarket and buy some 1/2" stock in .375 (equal
to 6 shims), .25"(4 shims), .1875(3 shims) and .125(2 shims). The main pain
was shaving .075 off the .375 to make the 5 shim shims - My shopmill took a
little practice but I got it close enough. The metal cost $15 and cut the
holes to about 500 holes and 1000 deburs - It might not sound like much but
they are much easier to keep track of and makes a good looking finished
product. (Think proseal on shims near the gas tank ribs??) This was actually
Terry Lobecheskis (local SR2500) suggestion and I am glad I followed thru.
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