The Murphy Builders Site

Brian, throw a trouble lamp with a 60 or 100 watt bulb in the tank center
section and loosely set the lid overtop leaving some small openings to let
the air circulate, as at 30F it will take for ever to cure.

After it has cured somewhat, if you are concerned for the last drop of fuel
to drain across, take a drill and add a hole or two through the lower rib
flange just in front of the rear bulkheads. Try not to mess up your new
proseal anywhere though that it might create a leakage channel behind it.

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "brian amendala" <n667ba@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2003 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: Repairing leaking fuel tanks <after> removing top skin "Safely"

Wayne, a few more questions. I have re-sealed the tank and put a good
amount of pro-seal in the corners between the ribs and bulkheads. When we
first sealed the tank we left small gaps between the ribs and bulkheads

for

fuel to flow. Are these important? Aslo, the temp here gets aroun 30
degrees F at night, should I keep the pro-seal warm to aid in setup?

Thanks, Brian

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Repairing leaking fuel tanks <after> removing top skin
"Safely"
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 18:24:50 -0500

It's fondue fuel (fuel line antifreeze) and it burns pretty much

invisibly,

so be careful with it as well!! Available at Canadian tire in Gallon

jugs.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "brian amendala" <n667ba@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2003 5:51 PM
Subject: Re: Repairing leaking fuel tanks <after> removing top skin
"Safely"

I'm curious, what is meth-hydrate? and where do you get it.

Thanks, Brian Amendala

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