Bulkhead cracks on 1800 Floats

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Now that your all have your floats together.......... I thought I should
share this with you.

When I split the 1500's and stretched them 21", to make them into 1800's
this spring/summer, I found that <ALL> the partial bulkheads in the step
area were cracked in the center right above the float keel area. I thought
maybe this was due to improper construction when the factory first built
them as these were one of, if not, the original set of 1500 amphibs. While
putting Howard's A/C "to bed" for the winter, today, I noticed that his
floats are now showing this cracking as well on all the step area partial
bulkheads.

I have posted a picture of the cracks to the archives files and also how I
tackled repairing the floats that I stretched. If you still haven't closed
your floats, or installed your "stringer" stiffeners, I would be tempted to
put flanges on these gussets and install them on the inner face of the
bulkhead to add some more stiffness. Gusset is basically a half moon of .032
material

Still great, light, floats guys/gals and for those that have followed my
posts about drilling the axles and filling the main wheels with grease for
bearing longevity, be reassured that Howard's chrome plated wheel bearings
have survived a 5th summer on the water. After blocking his floats, so his
gear was off the floor, I have simply pumped a fresh cartridge of synthetic
boat trailer grease through them while rotating the wheel, 'till the water
stopped showing in the expelled stuff and they are ready again for next
spring. This time frame is simply amazing considering that the first set of
chrome plated ones didn't last a month when they were just hand packed per
the assembly manual. Leaving them that way just let the wheel fill with
water, becoming a centrifuge to wash the bearings clean of all grease. I
also figure if we are getting a 6th season out of the bearings I can now
comfortably state it is not worth the time to disassemble the entire
assembly every year to clean and refill. $400 for bearings/6 years = only $6
6.67/year, so far, so why spend countless hours taking them apart and
putting them back together unless you are absolutely bored and have nothing
better to do!!

Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca








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[Walter Klatt]

Wayne, thanks for sharing. This is what makes this list
so valuable. Sometime later this winter, I am going to
give my floats a full going over after one full
season's use, and will be sure to really check these
partial bulkheads carefully. Looks like a simple fix,
so hopefully I can still prevent the problem from
happening on mine.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 5:33 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Bulkhead cracks on 1800 Floats


Now that your all have your floats
together.......... I thought I should
share this with you.

When I split the 1500's and stretched them
21", to make them into 1800's
this spring/summer, I found that <ALL> the
partial bulkheads in the step
area were cracked in the center right above
the float keel area. I thought
maybe this was due to improper construction
when the factory first built
them as these were one of, if not, the
original set of 1500 amphibs. While
putting Howard's A/C "to bed" for the
winter, today, I noticed that his
floats are now showing this cracking as well
on all the step area partial
bulkheads.

I have posted a picture of the cracks to the
archives files and also how I
tackled repairing the floats that I
stretched. If you still haven't closed
your floats, or installed your "stringer"
stiffeners, I would be tempted to
put flanges on these gussets and install
them on the inner face of the
bulkhead to add some more stiffness. Gusset
is basically a half moon of .032
material

Still great, light, floats guys/gals and for
those that have followed my
posts about drilling the axles and filling
the main wheels with grease for
bearing longevity, be reassured that
Howard's chrome plated wheel bearings
have survived a 5th summer on the water.
After blocking his floats, so his
gear was off the floor, I have simply pumped
a fresh cartridge of synthetic
boat trailer grease through them while
rotating the wheel, 'till the water
stopped showing in the expelled stuff and
they are ready again for next
spring. This time frame is simply amazing
considering that the first set of
chrome plated ones didn't last a month when
they were just hand packed per
the assembly manual. Leaving them that way
just let the wheel fill with
water, becoming a centrifuge to wash the
bearings clean of all grease. I
also figure if we are getting a 6th season
out of the bearings I can now
comfortably state it is not worth the time
to disassemble the entire
assembly every year to clean and refill.
$400 for bearings/6 years = only $6
6.67/year, so far, so why spend countless
hours taking them apart and
putting them back together unless you are
absolutely bored and have nothing
better to do!!

Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca






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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Problem is Walter, how can you fix it once they are all together?? Even
Howard's with his baggage door, that is about 16" long, would be a hard job
to work through. You sure can't do it through the 6" round holes unless you
have two in the step compartment, like the 1500's I have do, so you can
stick an arm in each hole.

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <walter.klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 8:54 PM
Subject: RE: Bulkhead cracks on 1800 Floats

Wayne, thanks for sharing. This is what makes this list
so valuable. Sometime later this winter, I am going to
give my floats a full going over after one full
season's use, and will be sure to really check these
partial bulkheads carefully. Looks like a simple fix,
so hopefully I can still prevent the problem from
happening on mine.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 5:33 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Bulkhead cracks on 1800 Floats


Now that your all have your floats
together.......... I thought I should
share this with you.

When I split the 1500's and stretched them
21", to make them into 1800's
this spring/summer, I found that <ALL> the
partial bulkheads in the step
area were cracked in the center right above
the float keel area. I thought
maybe this was due to improper construction
when the factory first built
them as these were one of, if not, the
original set of 1500 amphibs. While
putting Howard's A/C "to bed" for the
winter, today, I noticed that his
floats are now showing this cracking as well
on all the step area partial
bulkheads.

I have posted a picture of the cracks to the
archives files and also how I
tackled repairing the floats that I
stretched. If you still haven't closed
your floats, or installed your "stringer"
stiffeners, I would be tempted to
put flanges on these gussets and install
them on the inner face of the
bulkhead to add some more stiffness. Gusset
is basically a half moon of .032
material

Still great, light, floats guys/gals and for
those that have followed my
posts about drilling the axles and filling
the main wheels with grease for
bearing longevity, be reassured that
Howard's chrome plated wheel bearings
have survived a 5th summer on the water.
After blocking his floats, so his
gear was off the floor, I have simply pumped
a fresh cartridge of synthetic
boat trailer grease through them while
rotating the wheel, 'till the water
stopped showing in the expelled stuff and
they are ready again for next
spring. This time frame is simply amazing
considering that the first set of
chrome plated ones didn't last a month when
they were just hand packed per
the assembly manual. Leaving them that way
just let the wheel fill with
water, becoming a centrifuge to wash the
bearings clean of all grease. I
also figure if we are getting a 6th season
out of the bearings I can now
comfortably state it is not worth the time
to disassemble the entire
assembly every year to clean and refill.
$400 for bearings/6 years = only $6
6.67/year, so far, so why spend countless
hours taking them apart and
putting them back together unless you are
absolutely bored and have nothing
better to do!!

Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca






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[SWSLOANLK]

Wayne

Thanks for the info on the float damage. Mine look OK!
What is the bottom skin thickness on these floats that you are repairing. (.032?)

Steve Sloan

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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Steve, Howard's have taken 5 summers to start showing this deformation and cracking. I don't think it's a big deal, just thought I would nip it for others before they closed up their floats. Howard's bottoms in the step area are .032 and all the bulkheads are MAM's standard .025.

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: SWSLOANLK@aol.com (SWSLOANLK@aol.com)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2002 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: Bulkhead cracks on 1800 Floats


Wayne

Thanks for the info on the float damage. Mine look OK!
What is the bottom skin thickness on these floats that you are repairing. (.032?)

Steve Sloan

[Walter Klatt]

Yeah, I'll have a look this weekend, but I see your
point. It won't be the first time that I have had to
drill blindly and do stuff by feel on the Rebel.

I assume it's rough water landings that does it. I have
learned to touch down slowly and gently in these
conditions, but have not found a way to avoid the
beating you get for those 3 seconds when coming down
off the step.

Thanks also for looking in your special drawer for the
bolts. I am still on the hunt. I've got a local prop
shop phoning around their other locations to see if
they can locate a used set.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 1:41 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Bulkhead cracks on 1800 Floats


Problem is Walter, how can you fix it once
they are all together?? Even
Howard's with his baggage door, that is
about 16" long, would be a hard job
to work through. You sure can't do it
through the 6" round holes unless you
have two in the step compartment, like the
1500's I have do, so you can
stick an arm in each hole.

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <walter.klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 8:54 PM
Subject: RE: Bulkhead cracks on 1800 Floats

Wayne, thanks for sharing. This is what

makes this list

so valuable. Sometime later this winter, I

am going to

give my floats a full going over after one full
season's use, and will be sure to really

check these

partial bulkheads carefully. Looks like a

simple fix,

so hopefully I can still prevent the problem from
happening on mine.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 5:33 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Bulkhead cracks on 1800 Floats


Now that your all have your floats
together.......... I thought I should
share this with you.

When I split the 1500's and stretched them
21", to make them into 1800's
this spring/summer, I found that <ALL> the
partial bulkheads in the step
area were cracked in the center right above
the float keel area. I thought
maybe this was due to improper construction
when the factory first built
them as these were one of, if not, the
original set of 1500 amphibs. While
putting Howard's A/C "to bed" for the
winter, today, I noticed that his
floats are now showing this cracking as well
on all the step area partial
bulkheads.

I have posted a picture of the cracks to the
archives files and also how I
tackled repairing the floats that I
stretched. If you still haven't closed
your floats, or installed your "stringer"
stiffeners, I would be tempted to
put flanges on these gussets and install
them on the inner face of the
bulkhead to add some more stiffness. Gusset
is basically a half moon of .032
material

Still great, light, floats guys/gals and for
those that have followed my
posts about drilling the axles and filling
the main wheels with grease for
bearing longevity, be reassured that
Howard's chrome plated wheel bearings
have survived a 5th summer on the water.
After blocking his floats, so his
gear was off the floor, I have simply pumped
a fresh cartridge of synthetic
boat trailer grease through them while
rotating the wheel, 'till the water
stopped showing in the expelled stuff and
they are ready again for next
spring. This time frame is simply amazing
considering that the first set of
chrome plated ones didn't last a month when
they were just hand packed per
the assembly manual. Leaving them that way
just let the wheel fill with
water, becoming a centrifuge to wash the
bearings clean of all grease. I
also figure if we are getting a 6th season
out of the bearings I can now
comfortably state it is not worth the time
to disassemble the entire
assembly every year to clean and refill.
$400 for bearings/6 years = only $6
6.67/year, so far, so why spend countless
hours taking them apart and
putting them back together unless you are
absolutely bored and have nothing
better to do!!

Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca






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[SWSLOANLK]

Wayne

My float kit came with the heaver .040 bottoms that should help spread the load .
To date I have a little over 50 hrs on the floats with approx. 175 landings.Great fun!!

Steve Sloan

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[Drew Dalgleish]

At 08:32 PM 11/11/2002 -0500, you wrote:

Now that your all have your floats together.......... I thought I should
share this with you.

When I split the 1500's and stretched them 21", to make them into 1800's
this spring/summer, I found that <ALL> the partial bulkheads in the step
area were cracked in the center right above the float keel area. I thought
maybe this was due to improper construction when the factory first built
them as these were one of, if not, the original set of 1500 amphibs. While
putting Howard's A/C "to bed" for the winter, today, I noticed that his
floats are now showing this cracking as well on all the step area partial
bulkheads.

I have posted a picture of the cracks to the archives files and also how I
tackled repairing the floats that I stretched. If you still haven't closed
your floats, or installed your "stringer" stiffeners, I would be tempted to
put flanges on these gussets and install them on the inner face of the
bulkhead to add some more stiffness. Gusset is basically a half moon of .032
material

Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

Hi Wayne
Thanks for the heads up. Just finished adding gussets to my second float.
I knew there was a reason I was procrastinating about closing it up. I'm
wondering if you found any cracking on the F bulkhead and if not do you
think that the sealant acts like some kind of shock absorber. It would be
very dificult to add gussets to my first float but pretty easy to slide a
plastic straw under the bulkhead to let water through then add a fillet of
sealant up each side of the bulkhead.
Drew


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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Drew, just the partial bulkheads seem to do this. Haven't seen any
deformation of the full compartment end bulkheads, including the one that
has the drain area at the keel for the section between the attach/spreader
double bulkhead set. In your completed float, you could probably even cut a
doubler and then just coat the h... out of it with Proseal or Sikaflex and
simply bond it on to the partial bulkheads to add some strength.

Cheers,
Wayne

Hi Wayne
Thanks for the heads up. Just finished adding gussets to my second float.
I knew there was a reason I was procrastinating about closing it up. I'm
wondering if you found any cracking on the F bulkhead and if not do you
think that the sealant acts like some kind of shock absorber. It would be
very dificult to add gussets to my first float but pretty easy to slide a
plastic straw under the bulkhead to let water through then add a fillet of
sealant up each side of the bulkhead.
Drew

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[Drew Dalgleish]

That was my origional plan I even cut enough gussets out to do the other
float that way.
Drew

At 07:06 PM 11/29/2002 -0500, you wrote:

Drew, just the partial bulkheads seem to do this. Haven't seen any
deformation of the full compartment end bulkheads, including the one that
has the drain area at the keel for the section between the attach/spreader
double bulkhead set. In your completed float, you could probably even cut a
doubler and then just coat the h... out of it with Proseal or Sikaflex and
simply bond it on to the partial bulkheads to add some strength.

Cheers,
Wayne

Hi Wayne
Thanks for the heads up. Just finished adding gussets to my second float.
I knew there was a reason I was procrastinating about closing it up. I'm
wondering if you found any cracking on the F bulkhead and if not do you
think that the sealant acts like some kind of shock absorber. It would be
very dificult to add gussets to my first float but pretty easy to slide a
plastic straw under the bulkhead to let water through then add a fillet of
sealant up each side of the bulkhead.
Drew

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