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Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 16:39:40 -0800
Subject: 0320/Subaru/float mods
From: "Dan Morehouse" <dan.morehouse@netos.com>
To: "murphy-rebel @dcsol.com" <murphy-rebel @dcsol.com>
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Greetings folks!
I've upgraded to 040 for the float fix doorpost doubler. I haven't put in
the corner gusset yet and wonder if they would be needed in my instance. I
have made the brace big enough to cover the area covered by the corner
gusset (fus 27). Could I just somehow make a flange on the curved part of
the new doorpost doubler, pretty much the same shape as the corner gusset?
I'm not experienced in making flanges and hope to get a flanging tool soon.
Suggestions? Looking at the hole flanging tool from ATS.
Also, since I cut the firewall and dash back, the side panels of the dash
make the dashboard braces cross before getting to the firewall. So I made
some brackets to tie the two braces together at this point. Also extended
the braces back along the dash to tie directly into the doorpost.
Suggestions?
One of the next areas is installing the witch hat along the front side
panels. Any extra stuff needed here? According to fig. 137 step 437 of my
07/27/94 manual, do I extend this side panel stiffener to take in the rivet
row along the top and bottom corners?
I'm also close to suggested place to install the witches had on the front
and rear of the firewall; also the float fix mentioned to install chanell
between the top two motor mount brackets. Since I'm putting in a Subaru EJ22
I'm holding off on drilling/installing for now. I don't know how the
mounting system will end up. Hey, Soobies, how have you done it?
Cheers,
Dan
R280
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0320/Subaru/float mods
0320/Subaru/float mods
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From: "Joel Jacobs" <jj@netexp.net>
To: "Murphy Rebel" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: 0320/Subaru/float mods
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 20:49:46 -0500
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-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Morehouse <dan.morehouse@netos.com>
To: murphy-rebel @dcsol.com <murphy-rebel @dcsol.com> <murphy-rebel
@dcsol.com <murphy-rebel @dcsol.com>>
Date: Tuesday, December 08, 1998 7:34 PM
Subject: 0320/Subaru/float mods
a picture. Hey Bobp I changed the format. Can you view this one?
Joel
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From: "Joel Jacobs" <jj@netexp.net>
To: "Murphy Rebel" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: 0320/Subaru/float mods
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 20:49:46 -0500
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-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Morehouse <dan.morehouse@netos.com>
To: murphy-rebel @dcsol.com <murphy-rebel @dcsol.com> <murphy-rebel
@dcsol.com <murphy-rebel @dcsol.com>>
Date: Tuesday, December 08, 1998 7:34 PM
Subject: 0320/Subaru/float mods
I bought the dynafocal mount from Murphy and adapted my EJ-22 to it. Here'sSince I'm putting in a Subaru EJ22
I'm holding off on drilling/installing for now. I don't know how the
mounting system will end up. Hey, Soobies, how have you done it?
a picture. Hey Bobp I changed the format. Can you view this one?
Joel
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0320/Subaru/float mods
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To: " (Murphy Rebel)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: 0320/Subaru/float mods
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Dan, if you are interested take a look at our new page
http://www.subielyc.com/
This will allow you to use the regular dynafocal mount that Murphy sells and
puts your system out the same cowl hole.
Dan Morehouse wrote:
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To: " (Murphy Rebel)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: 0320/Subaru/float mods
References: <19981209003953073.AAA201@[206.40.137.199]>
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Dan, if you are interested take a look at our new page
http://www.subielyc.com/
This will allow you to use the regular dynafocal mount that Murphy sells and
puts your system out the same cowl hole.
Dan Morehouse wrote:
soon.Greetings folks!
I've upgraded to 040 for the float fix doorpost doubler. I haven't put in
the corner gusset yet and wonder if they would be needed in my instance. I
have made the brace big enough to cover the area covered by the corner
gusset (fus 27). Could I just somehow make a flange on the curved part of
the new doorpost doubler, pretty much the same shape as the corner gusset?
I'm not experienced in making flanges and hope to get a flanging tool
rivetSuggestions? Looking at the hole flanging tool from ATS.
Also, since I cut the firewall and dash back, the side panels of the dash
make the dashboard braces cross before getting to the firewall. So I made
some brackets to tie the two braces together at this point. Also extended
the braces back along the dash to tie directly into the doorpost.
Suggestions?
One of the next areas is installing the witch hat along the front side
panels. Any extra stuff needed here? According to fig. 137 step 437 of my
07/27/94 manual, do I extend this side panel stiffener to take in the
EJ22row along the top and bottom corners?
I'm also close to suggested place to install the witches had on the front
and rear of the firewall; also the float fix mentioned to install chanell
between the top two motor mount brackets. Since I'm putting in a Subaru
I'm holding off on drilling/installing for now. I don't know how the
mounting system will end up. Hey, Soobies, how have you done it?
Cheers,
Dan
R280
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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0320/Subaru/float mods
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Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 09:42:52 -0500
From: klehman@albedo.net
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References: <19981209003953073.AAA201@[206.40.137.199]>
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Dan
A flange in 40 thou material is beyond my ability so I'll stick to the
corner
gusset myself.
Dan Morehouse wrote:
Make sure you don't weaken the door post here. I don't really see any
advantage
to tying this together. The forward end of the dash board braces just go to
a
wiggly spot in the firewall and the door posts will tend to be fairly
flexable
sideways at that point. THe dashboard is already well fastened. On mine I
changed the angle of the braces so that they are not completely parallel
with
the dasboard and then riveted them to the original bracket on the firewall.
extending into the top and bottom rivet row. If easy and conveniant maybe
it's
an idea, but don't think it's worth much extra trouble. If making a new
triangular corner piece though, I would be tempted to extend that piece an
inch
or so lower to pick up the witches hat.
tube so I don't need the horizontal U channel. Any time the engine mount
tubes
form substantially less than 90 degees with respect to the firewall, you
start
generating side loads (compression and expansion) in the firewall. The
factory
Lycoming mount (at least the non dynafocal one) uses quite acute angles here
so
something has to take the load.
little.
Ken
by juliet.albedo.net (8.9.0/8.9.0) with ESMTP id JAA18550
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Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 09:42:52 -0500
From: klehman@albedo.net
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To: " (Murphy Rebel)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: 0320/Subaru/float mods
References: <19981209003953073.AAA201@[206.40.137.199]>
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Dan
A flange in 40 thou material is beyond my ability so I'll stick to the
corner
gusset myself.
Dan Morehouse wrote:
soon.have made the brace big enough to cover the area covered by the corner
gusset (fus 27). Could I just somehow make a flange on the curved part of
the new doorpost doubler, pretty much the same shape as the corner gusset?
I'm not experienced in making flanges and hope to get a flanging tool
Make sure you don't weaken the door post here. I don't really see any
advantage
to tying this together. The forward end of the dash board braces just go to
a
wiggly spot in the firewall and the door posts will tend to be fairly
flexable
sideways at that point. THe dashboard is already well fastened. On mine I
changed the angle of the braces so that they are not completely parallel
with
the dasboard and then riveted them to the original bracket on the firewall.
Have seen this done both ways but the manual doesn't show the witches hatthe braces back along the dash to tie directly into the doorpost.
Suggestions?
extending into the top and bottom rivet row. If easy and conveniant maybe
it's
an idea, but don't think it's worth much extra trouble. If making a new
triangular corner piece though, I would be tempted to extend that piece an
inch
or so lower to pick up the witches hat.
rivetOne of the next areas is installing the witch hat along the front side
panels. Any extra stuff needed here? According to fig. 137 step 437 of my
07/27/94 manual, do I extend this side panel stiffener to take in the
Depends on your engine mount. Mine is already tied across the top with steelrow along the top and bottom corners?
tube so I don't need the horizontal U channel. Any time the engine mount
tubes
form substantially less than 90 degees with respect to the firewall, you
start
generating side loads (compression and expansion) in the firewall. The
factory
Lycoming mount (at least the non dynafocal one) uses quite acute angles here
so
something has to take the load.
EJ22also the float fix mentioned to install chanell
between the top two motor mount brackets. Since I'm putting in a Subaru
Just my thoughts Dan seeing as how no one else answered. Hope it helps aI'm holding off on drilling/installing for now. I don't know how the
mounting system will end up. Hey, Soobies, how have you done it?
Dan
little.
Ken