The Murphy Builders Site

Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:29 pm**

Hi;

Attached are 11 msgs. that I can't figure out if they were suppose to go
to you, or if you sent them to us?!

Help me figure this out?

Thanks!
Heidi

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------ Start of attached email. Subject: Re: Rebel on floats ------
Wayne and Drew,

I will re-clock my prop this weekend. If it makes any difference I'll let you
know. Like you said, it can't hurt anything. Maybe I'll get lucky. Thanks.

Bruce 357R

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------ End of attached email ------

------ Start of attached email. Subject: Re: Venting Moose Tanks ------
Wayne,

That's a pretty good fuel burn (7.8 GPH) at 2500 RPM. That would place you at
greater than 75% power, depending on what altitude you flew at, of course. My
0320 150 HP operation manual says you should be burning 10 GPH at that RPM.
Where you leaning your mixture on the lean side of peak?

Bruce 357R

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------ End of attached email ------

------ Start of attached email. Subject: Re: Static Port Location ------
Mike,

I thought that too but didn't have enough confidence to be sure that I wasn't
thinking in reverse. That would mean my ASI is even more in error. Could a
new air speed indicator be that far off? Say 10 MPH. How much difference
would cabin/ambient air make all else equal?

Bruce 357R

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------ End of attached email ------

------ Start of attached email. Subject: Digest mode is gone ------
Due to the problems recently with the digest mode of the lists, I have
removed all digest lists. All digest members have been moved to the regular
lists. If you were a digest member, make sure you send your posts to the
correct e-mail address... murphy-rebel@dcsol.com or rebel-ramble@dcsol.com.

Please let me know if you have any problems.

Thanks, Mike

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------ End of attached email ------

------ Start of attached email. Subject: Re: Elevator cables ------
VELCRO them down

Ralph Baker wrote:

We are planning installation of the elevator cables in our Elite and
the MAM supplied cable guides / hat section covers seem lacking. They
have you rivet both down permanently. How do they expect to do an
annual cable inspection or replace cable guides? We already are
planning one pulley at the forward end for the top cable where it
makes an angle of about 10 degrees with the floor. I am considering
running the cables in 1/2" white PVC water pipe which would allow the
cables to be disconnected and pulled out of the pipes at one end for
inspection. It seems the plastic would not introduce excessive
friction and would spread out the cable wear. A new, slightly deeper,
"hat section" would have to be made. The pipes would be secured at
each end with Adel clamps. That way the "hat sections" could be
riveted in and the pipe replaced, if ever required, by fishing it out
the back end. Am I overly concerned about inspection and maintenance
ease? Has anyone else come up with a better solution to elevator
cable routing? Thanks for your assistance,Ralph BakerElite 624E
(reserved)

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------ Start of attached email. Subject: Re: Venting Moose Tanks ------
I was at 3500ASL going east and 6500 going west on the return. When it comes to leaning I usually just pull it out 'till it runs rough and push it back in about a 1/2" or so and leave it without paying too much attention to temps (EGT's somewhere around 1300*F). Good thing I didn't burn 10GPH or they would still be looking for me some where in amongst the rock/water/trees that cover the entire route!!!

The 7.8 USGPH fuel burn makes perfect sense to me. I used to burn no more than 5.5 GPH with my 100HP O-235 and I always had it wound right out to get some speed out of her and never bothered to lean as I was running 80/87 (If I powered back I could stretch out my 44 gallon tanks to 8 hours and still have reserve) . Add 50% power to get to 150 HP and I should be burning around around 8.25 GPH and I lean now to keep the plugs clean since I have to use 100LL, as 80/87 is no longer available from my supplier that fills my tank.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: Legeorgen@aol.com
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 8:13 PM
Subject: Re: Venting Moose Tanks

Wayne,

That's a pretty good fuel burn (7.8 GPH) at 2500 RPM. That would place you at greater than 75% power, depending on what altitude you flew at, of course. My 0320 150 HP operation manual says you should be burning 10 GPH at that RPM. Where you leaning your mixture on the lean side of peak?

Bruce 357R

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------ End of attached email ------

------ Start of attached email. Subject: Re: Elevator cables ------
You and Ken should start writing the builders manual !!!!!!!!!!!!

:>)
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: Falcon
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 11:51 PM
Subject: Re: Elevator cables

VELCRO them down
Ralph Baker wrote:

We are planning installation of the elevator cables in our Elite and the MAM supplied cable guides / hat section covers seem lacking. They have you rivet both down permanently. How do they expect to do an annual cable inspection or replace cable guides? We already are planning one pulley at the forward end for the top cable where it makes an angle of about 10 degrees with the floor. I am considering running the cables in 1/2" white PVC water pipe which would allow the cables to be disconnected and pulled out of the pipes at one end for inspection. It seems the plastic would not introduce excessive friction and would spread out the cable wear. A new, slightly deeper, "hat section" would have to be made. The pipes would be secured at each end with Adel clamps. That way the "hat sections" could be riveted in and the pipe replaced, if ever required, by fishing it out the back end. Am I overly concerned about inspection and maintenance ease? Has anyone else come up with a better solution to elevator cable routing? Thanks for your assistance,Ralph BakerElite 624E (reserved)

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------ End of attached email ------

------ Start of attached email. Subject: Re: Elevator cables ------

Hi Ralph !

I wouldn't worry too much about guide wear - over 10 years
and over 1,000 hours, and the cables were just a bit shinier near
the Delrin guides, and the guides looked like new ! Guess that's
why they use Delrin !! :-)

If you want an easy way to check, just re-make the hat
section out of 3/32" Lexan - then you can look through !! I'm
becoming a real fan of Lexan for fairings - it's MUCH more workable
than aluminum, and, because you can see through it, you avoid all
that hassle of blind drilling and back drilling - just position
and drill right through ! It takes a LOT more bending without cracking,
and seems much more durable... You can always paint it, leaving
a piece of tape where you want a "window". ;-)

.....bobp

----------------------------------orig.-------------------------------
At 11:10 PM 10/15/02 -0400, you wrote:

We are planning installation of the elevator cables in our Elite and the

MAM supplied cable guides / hat section covers seem lacking. They have you
rivet both down permanently. How do they expect to do an annual cable
inspection or replace cable guides?

We already are planning one pulley at the forward end for the top cable

where it makes an angle of about 10 degrees with the floor. I am
considering running the cables in 1/2" white PVC water pipe which would
allow the cables to be disconnected and pulled out of the pipes at one end
for inspection. It seems the plastic would not introduce excessive friction
and would spread out the cable wear. A new, slightly deeper, "hat section"
would have to be made. The pipes would be secured at each end with Adel
clamps. That way the "hat sections" could be riveted in and the pipe
replaced, if ever required, by fishing it out the back end.

Am I overly concerned about inspection and maintenance ease? Has anyone

else come up with a better solution to elevator cable routing?

Thanks for your assistance,
Ralph Baker
Elite 624E (reserved)<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0

Transitional//EN">

<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=GENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>We are planning installation of the elevator

cables

in our Elite and the MAM supplied cable guides / hat section covers seem
lacking.  They have you rivet both down permanently.  How do they
expect to do an annual cable inspection or replace cable guides? 
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>We already are planning one pulley at the forward
end for the top cable where it makes an angle of about 10 degrees with the
floor.  I am considering running the cables in 1/2" white PVC water pipe
which would allow the cables to be disconnected and pulled out of the pipes at
one end for inspection.  It seems the plastic would not introduce

excessive

friction and would spread out the cable wear.  A new, slightly
deeper, "hat section" would have to be made.  The pipes would be
secured at each end with Adel clamps.  That way the "hat sections"
could be riveted in and the pipe replaced, if ever required, by

fishing it

out the back end.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Am I overly concerned about inspection and
maintenance ease?  Has anyone else come up with a better solution to
elevator cable routing?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Thanks for your assistance,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Ralph Baker</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Elite 624E (reserved)</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------ End of attached email ------

------ Start of attached email. Subject: Moose wing tip installation ------
Hi All,

We are not quite sure what route to take in installing the wingtips. The
instructions are reasonably clear. Inter-rivet around the perimeter. Rivet
the tips on ... doesn't seem like a practical thing to do if one has any
thoughts of removing them someday.

So then let's use rivnuts. Inter-rivnutting (made it up) presents its own
problems if one wants to fasten to the outer wing rib. The already
established (fast built) flush rivet spacing (skin & outer rib) is not
regular in areas and in some spots is less than an inch. Inter-rivnutting
along this rivet line certainly can be done but nothing easy in some areas.

What are the thoughts about using rivnuts just inboard of the outer rib into
the skin. Would skin doubler material or an added angle be in order?

All feedback and ways others have attached tips is appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Don Boardman
& Partner, Randy Bowers
Moose #130 "The Beast" M-14PF 400HP, MT-prop, Aerocet 3500 amphibs, Rome, NY

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------ End of attached email ------

------ Start of attached email. Subject: RE: Venting Moose Tanks ------
Yup, this fuel burn makes sense to me. I normally lean mine (150 hp 0320
Rebel on 1800 amphibs) to 7.4 - 7.5 (I have a fuel flow gauge) at 2450 RPM
and run just slightly rich of peak on my first cylinder to reach peak. This
is at 2500 - 3500 altitude. However, I have noticed the higher you go, the
higher RPM you need to maintain the same IAS and fuel burn goes down.
Earlier this summer, I took a flight over to the interior of BC and had to
climb and cruise at 9500 ASL to clear some mountains, and was cruising at
2500 RPM and burning only about 7.1 gph. I couldn't maintain my regular IAS
at that altitude though, and never did calculate my true airspeed, but my
GPS groundspeed was still up there, so I was satisfied. I was also fully
loaded with fuel, wife, dog, luggage and camping gear.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 6:01 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Venting Moose Tanks

I was at 3500ASL going east and 6500 going west on the return. When it
comes to leaning I usually just pull it out 'till it runs rough and push it
back in about a 1/2" or so and leave it without paying too much attention to
temps (EGT's somewhere around 1300*F). Good thing I didn't burn 10GPH or
they would still be looking for me some where in amongst the
rock/water/trees that cover the entire route!!!

The 7.8 USGPH fuel burn makes perfect sense to me. I used to burn no more
than 5.5 GPH with my 100HP O-235 and I always had it wound right out to get
some speed out of her and never bothered to lean as I was running 80/87 (If
I powered back I could stretch out my 44 gallon tanks to 8 hours and still
have reserve) . Add 50% power to get to 150 HP and I should be burning
around around 8.25 GPH and I lean now to keep the plugs clean since I have
to use 100LL, as 80/87 is no longer available from my supplier that fills my
tank.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: Legeorgen@aol.com
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 8:13 PM
Subject: Re: Venting Moose Tanks

Wayne,

That's a pretty good fuel burn (7.8 GPH) at 2500 RPM. That would place
you at greater than 75% power, depending on what altitude you flew at, of
course. My 0320 150 HP operation manual says you should be burning 10 GPH at
that RPM. Where you leaning your mixture on the lean side of peak?

Bruce 357R

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------ End of attached email ------

------ Start of attached email. Subject: RE: Moose wing tip installation ------
IMHO, just rivet the tips on. It will cost you more
time to put in rivnuts, or even think about doing it,
than the time you will take to drill out the rivets if
you ever have to. By the time you get to this stage in
the building, you should be pretty proficient at
drilling out rivets. With mine, I actually had to
replace a wing tip once after some damage, and took
nothing to drill out the rivets. Again, JMHO.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
[mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Don Boardman
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 6:11 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Moose wing tip installation

Hi All,

We are not quite sure what route to take in
installing the wingtips. The
instructions are reasonably clear.
Inter-rivet around the perimeter. Rivet
the tips on ... doesn't seem like a
practical thing to do if one has any
thoughts of removing them someday.

So then let's use rivnuts. Inter-rivnutting
(made it up) presents its own
problems if one wants to fasten to the outer
wing rib. The already
established (fast built) flush rivet spacing
(skin & outer rib) is not
regular in areas and in some spots is less
than an inch. Inter-rivnutting
along this rivet line certainly can be done
but nothing easy in some areas.

What are the thoughts about using rivnuts
just inboard of the outer rib into
the skin. Would skin doubler material or an
added angle be in order?

All feedback and ways others have attached
tips is appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Don Boardman
& Partner, Randy Bowers
Moose #130 "The Beast" M-14PF 400HP,
MT-prop, Aerocet 3500 amphibs, Rome, NY

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mike.davis@dcsol.com
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------ End of attached email ------

Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:29 pm**

I don't know

-------Original Message-------

Hi;

Attached are 11 msgs. that I can't figure out if they were suppose to go
to you, or if you sent them to us?!

Help me figure this out?

Thanks!
Heidi

____________________________________________________
http://www.incredimail.com/redir.asp?ad_id=309&lang=9 IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click Here

Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:29 pm**

Hello Heidi, these messages all come for the Rebel Builders mailing list.
Your address was listed as a member of the digest mode of this list which
has been having problems. Today I moved all members of the digest list over
to the regular list... the difference is the digest mode waited until there
were 10 messages, then sent them cataloged into one message, the regular
list sends you 10 individual messages.

If you do now wish to receive these messages anymore, just drop me a note to
mike.davis@dcsol.com and I'll be glad to remove you from the mailing list.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "Heidi R. Schoppenhorst" <boreallodge@juno.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 9:39 PM
Subject: Are we suppose to be getting your mail?

Hi;

Attached are 11 msgs. that I can't figure out if they were suppose to go
to you, or if you sent them to us?!

Help me figure this out?

Thanks!
Heidi

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:29 pm**

Howdy Heidi! I , not being any sort of a computer geek, have no idea what happened! The funny part is I also recieved the same posts, so it's not like the address is wrong, maybe somehow you've gotten posted to our list? I'll drop a note to our server guy, and see what he can do. Sorry about the problem. Curt Martin

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:29 pm**

Already taken care of Curt... Heidi dropped me a note saying that they weren't working much now on their kit, so I removed her from the list.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: Rebflyer@aol.com (Rebflyer@aol.com)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Friday, October 18, 2002 2:24 PM
Subject: Re: Are we suppose to be getting your mail?

Howdy Heidi! I , not being any sort of a computer geek, have no idea what happened! The funny part is I also recieved the same posts, so it's not like the address is wrong, maybe somehow you've gotten posted to our list? I'll drop a note to our server guy, and see what he can do. Sorry about the problem. Curt Martin