Hi All,
We are not quite sure what route to take in installing the wingtips. The
instructions are reasonably clear. Inter-rivet around the perimeter. Rivet
the tips on ... doesn't seem like a practical thing to do if one has any
thoughts of removing them someday.
So then let's use rivnuts. Inter-rivnutting (made it up) presents its own
problems if one wants to fasten to the outer wing rib. The already
established (fast built) flush rivet spacing (skin & outer rib) is not
regular in areas and in some spots is less than an inch. Inter-rivnutting
along this rivet line certainly can be done but nothing easy in some areas.
What are the thoughts about using rivnuts just inboard of the outer rib into
the skin. Would skin doubler material or an added angle be in order?
All feedback and ways others have attached tips is appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Don Boardman
& Partner, Randy Bowers
Moose #130 "The Beast" M-14PF 400HP, MT-prop, Aerocet 3500 amphibs, Rome, NY
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Do you want this big green box to go away? Well here's how...
Click here for full update
Wildcat! photo archives restored.
Click here for full update
Donors can now disable ads.
Click here for instructions
Add yourself to the user map.
Click here for instructions
Click here for full update
Wildcat! photo archives restored.
Click here for full update
Donors can now disable ads.
Click here for instructions
Add yourself to the user map.
Click here for instructions
Moose wing tip installation
Moose wing tip installation
IMHO, just rivet the tips on. It will cost you more
time to put in rivnuts, or even think about doing it,
than the time you will take to drill out the rivets if
you ever have to. By the time you get to this stage in
the building, you should be pretty proficient at
drilling out rivets. With mine, I actually had to
replace a wing tip once after some damage, and took
nothing to drill out the rivets. Again, JMHO.
Walter
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
time to put in rivnuts, or even think about doing it,
than the time you will take to drill out the rivets if
you ever have to. By the time you get to this stage in
the building, you should be pretty proficient at
drilling out rivets. With mine, I actually had to
replace a wing tip once after some damage, and took
nothing to drill out the rivets. Again, JMHO.
Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
[mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Don Boardman
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 6:11 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Moose wing tip installation
Hi All,
We are not quite sure what route to take in
installing the wingtips. The
instructions are reasonably clear.
Inter-rivet around the perimeter. Rivet
the tips on ... doesn't seem like a
practical thing to do if one has any
thoughts of removing them someday.
So then let's use rivnuts. Inter-rivnutting
(made it up) presents its own
problems if one wants to fasten to the outer
wing rib. The already
established (fast built) flush rivet spacing
(skin & outer rib) is not
regular in areas and in some spots is less
than an inch. Inter-rivnutting
along this rivet line certainly can be done
but nothing easy in some areas.
What are the thoughts about using rivnuts
just inboard of the outer rib into
the skin. Would skin doubler material or an
added angle be in order?
All feedback and ways others have attached
tips is appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Don Boardman
& Partner, Randy Bowers
Moose #130 "The Beast" M-14PF 400HP,
MT-prop, Aerocet 3500 amphibs, Rome, NY
*--------------------------------------------
-----------------------------*
To unsubscribe go to
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/listserv.htm
Archives located at
http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail
mike.davis@dcsol.com
*--------------------------------------------
-----------------------------*
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Moose wing tip installation
Hi Don
There has been lots of discussion on this but the best solution that
I've seen is clipnuts. Not quite as cheap as rivets but almost as quick.
Much much quicker to install (or replace) than nutplates. The ones
Wayne was selling are thin enough on the front side that they can be
slipped between the skin and the rib on the wingtip that has the rib
flanges pointing inboard. I think there may also be countersunk rivnuts
available but I've never used them.
I try to avoid using nutplates or sheet metal screws into .020 paarts
without a doubler. A doubler on nutserts is probably a good idea as
well. Mind you I also try very hard to avoid sheet metal screws in any
structural part. I've not heard that it is a problem, but the cut that
the thread makes sure seems like a good place for a crack to propagate from.
Ken
Don Boardman wrote:
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
There has been lots of discussion on this but the best solution that
I've seen is clipnuts. Not quite as cheap as rivets but almost as quick.
Much much quicker to install (or replace) than nutplates. The ones
Wayne was selling are thin enough on the front side that they can be
slipped between the skin and the rib on the wingtip that has the rib
flanges pointing inboard. I think there may also be countersunk rivnuts
available but I've never used them.
I try to avoid using nutplates or sheet metal screws into .020 paarts
without a doubler. A doubler on nutserts is probably a good idea as
well. Mind you I also try very hard to avoid sheet metal screws in any
structural part. I've not heard that it is a problem, but the cut that
the thread makes sure seems like a good place for a crack to propagate from.
Ken
Don Boardman wrote:
Hi All,
We are not quite sure what route to take in installing the wingtips. The
instructions are reasonably clear. Inter-rivet around the perimeter. Rivet
the tips on ... doesn't seem like a practical thing to do if one has any
thoughts of removing them someday.
So then let's use rivnuts. Inter-rivnutting (made it up) presents its own
problems if one wants to fasten to the outer wing rib. The already
established (fast built) flush rivet spacing (skin & outer rib) is not
regular in areas and in some spots is less than an inch. Inter-rivnutting
along this rivet line certainly can be done but nothing easy in some areas.
What are the thoughts about using rivnuts just inboard of the outer rib into
the skin. Would skin doubler material or an added angle be in order?
All feedback and ways others have attached tips is appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Don Boardman
& Partner, Randy Bowers
Moose #130 "The Beast" M-14PF 400HP, MT-prop, Aerocet 3500 amphibs, Rome, NY
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------