Does anyone have any tips on getting control cable lengths correct? I did
OK on my aileron cables, but I have one turnbuckle cranked down all the way
and the other dangerously close to the "no more than three threads showing"
rule. (OK, there's actually four threads showing but I'm hoping the FAA
inspector can't count that high.) I did mine by having one end attached
then I pulled the cable tight through the thimble with the turnbuckle
attached and screwed in about half way and eye-balled where I should crimp
it down. There must be a better way.
Update on my project:
I'll have some pictures ready for the archives soon showing the rear cargo
area and the roof mounted flap assembly. By not having to route the flap
cable half way down the tailcone and back again I was able to keep my rudder
and elevator cables against the lower tailcone skin for two bays behind the
regular cargo area. Then I made a floor skin with the outsides rolled to
match the inside curvature of the bulkheads. I also installed a second
cargo door two bays behind the regular cargo door, on the opposite side. I
may have the battery back there and the door will give easy access. With my
heavier Chevy V8 up front I'll probably need something back there all the
time anyway. 40 - 50 pounds of survival gear will probably always live back
there to help out. It also creates a nice place for one's legs to stretch
out when sleeping in the plane, or a place to put skis, fishing poles, etc.
Of course, I'll have to be vigilant when making changes in what's back there
in terms of weight and balance. I'm especially pleased with the additional
strength added to how the cabin attaches to the tailcone. Especially at the
top which wouldn't normally have the same kind of strength that is created
by the shear webs and angles that make up the regular cargo area floor. But
now, for the flap assembly, there are box structures that extend two
bulkheads behind the aileron bellcrank box. I also have an extra bulkhead
on the top where the cabin attaches to the tailcone so that I could make a
complete box structure like the door posts at that point. Because of all
this, I am not planning on adding the two small gussets on the outside of
the fuselage at the top where the cabin meets the tailcone. One other
change was to turn the slide block around (the one that droops the ailerons
when the flaps are extended) so that the push-pull rod tangs are facing
forward. I will have a separate lever to droop the ailerons if and when I
want them. This will be nice when there is a strong crosswind and I don't
want to decrease my aileron authority when landing.
Mike Kimball
SR #044
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