Posted 7 pics to Rebel Fairing section showing gear leg covers. Note that I
use to make them come up tight under the fuselage, but it is MUCH easier to
keep an eye on/lube your gear bolts/attach skis cables/etc this way. You
could also build an additional fairing to fill in the gap from gear leg
cover to the fuselage outer floor and pick up the same upper screws on the
top channel to mount it to. Channels are formed tapered to fit the 1 1/4"
width at the main leg and 1" at the drag brace. Of course the main leg
channel is 1 1/4" top to bottom and it is only bolted to the lower bolt (of
the upper pair) and the upper bolt of the drag brace brackets attachment for
retention. There are no additional holes drilled in the main gear legs!
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <
oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: Gear Legs
To add: I use to use .025 material for the fairings, but as my stock of
that
has run out I have been using .020 and it seems tough enough (considering
the whole airplane is .020 skinned).
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <
oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 1:09 PM
Subject: Re: Gear Legs
Using fabric also negates any abilty to inspect your gear legs after it
is
installed. I found some REALLY lose bolts when I pulled the fabric off
Charles Dixons Rebel, when I was upgrading to the Gord Mohr's "pivots".
Using aluminum allows for removal at any time for full inspection if you
think you tweaked something > IF < you screw it on and not riveted like
some
I have seen.
If I get some time later today I will upload a few shots of the aluminum
fairings going onto Georges PFT, that I just rebuilt, so others can see
how
edge
to hide the brake lines going down the leg. Can't think of an easy,
neat way to do it with fabric ...?. Would .016 metal be thick enough
for this? Thanks, again.
Clay
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