1800 floats

[Drew Dalgleish]

I'm assembling the main gear on my floats and I have a question about the
bolt lenghth given for the stop bolt that screws into the FL205 stop block
block. Using an AN4-10A bolt here prevents the gear from fully extending. I
think the gear should extend over centre so it won't collapse if hydralic
pressure is lost. Is this correct or am I missing something? If I'm to
change the bolt how far past centre should the gear extend?
Drew Dalgleish
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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

YES!!!!!!!!!!!!! The gear MUST go over center to lock. No great distance
over, as long as any weight on the system makes it stay locked. Adjust your
bolt until you have one that works!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, June 07, 2002 11:50 AM
Subject: 1800 floats

I'm assembling the main gear on my floats and I have a question about the
bolt lenghth given for the stop bolt that screws into the FL205 stop block
block. Using an AN4-10A bolt here prevents the gear from fully extending.

I

think the gear should extend over centre so it won't collapse if hydralic
pressure is lost. Is this correct or am I missing something? If I'm to
change the bolt how far past centre should the gear extend?
Drew Dalgleish
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[rebel]

Anyone know of kits available in the 1800 size other than Murphy? Find their
kit too pricey for 6061-T6. Am an old EDO fan and draw the line on the soft
metal verses 2024. Might be designing my own if I can't find something else.
Would build a set of Cap 1800's if I could find a set of bulk heads. Have a
set of EDO 1650's for my Christavia with new skins top and bottom, new angle,
chines etc. but won't sell them till I start on another set for the Rebel.
Requested info from Aqua but they look quite stubby and are a bit on the
heavy side. Any Bites?
Thanks
Steve W.


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[Drew Dalgleish]

For straight floats you could buy a set of 1500 drawings from Wag-aero and
scale them up to suit yourself. I bought a set of 1800 amphibs and while
they are expensive I feel I got fair value for my money. There's an awful
pile of parts that go into a float plus some custom extrusions.
Drew

At 09:16 PM 4/17/2003 -0800, you wrote:

Anyone know of kits available in the 1800 size other than Murphy? Find their
kit too pricey for 6061-T6. Am an old EDO fan and draw the line on the soft
metal verses 2024. Might be designing my own if I can't find something else.
Would build a set of Cap 1800's if I could find a set of bulk heads. Have a
set of EDO 1650's for my Christavia with new skins top and bottom, new

angle,

chines etc. but won't sell them till I start on another set for the Rebel.
Requested info from Aqua but they look quite stubby and are a bit on the
heavy side. Any Bites?
Thanks
Steve W.


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Drew Dalgleish




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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Steve, if you love the EDO line so much, why not pick up a set of 1850's
from a C150/152 and make up some mounting gear?? If they don't work right
remove the mounting gear and put back the C150 mounting and they'll still be
certified with a wide open market for resale!

What I don't like about EDO and the likes is the lower number of separate
compartments (MAM's have EIGHT/float!). I was amazed when I looked inside a
set of EDO1650's thinking I could easily turn them into a set of amphibs by
bolting a gear assembly to the step bulkhead, only to find that there isn't
even a bulkhead at the step and that it is one long giant hollow
compartment.

Corrosion resistant 6061T6 vs corrosion susceptible 2024T3! Huummmm! May be
as many possible negatives as plus' going either way. Also since 2024 is
harder and breaks easier (evident by the 3x as much bending radius 2024
needs over 6061) is it not possible that the 6061 just may dent on a rock,
where as the 2024 will tear a hole! I don't know just speculating!!!!!!!

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, April 18, 2003 2:03 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats

Thanks for the reply, Drew. I,ve had the North Air drawing for years. They
are extremely heavy for their size. I,ve built 2 complete sets of other
floats plus alot of repairs and yes there is alot of parts. I flew in
Newfoundland for a number of years and they don't call it the "Rock" for
nothing. For serious float flying, 2024 is the best for construction from
my experiences thus far in life. From working with the 6061 and

accidently

releasing my cleco plyers too quickly, I've experienced the end result of
several dents in the .020 skins. ( all plyers now have a wad of tape on

the

lower handle ends!) Talked to a buddy a few minutes ago and he has the
Zenith 1900 plans. I'll see they next weekend.
When I first looked at the Murphy straight 1800's they were on special for
about 5200cdn, now asking 9200. I had full intentions on using the kit
skins for templates only and use the 2024 for all of the exterior.

Steve w

From: Drew Dalgleish <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 13:25:34 -0400

For straight floats you could buy a set of 1500 drawings from Wag-aero

and

scale them up to suit yourself. I bought a set of 1800 amphibs and while
they are expensive I feel I got fair value for my money. There's an awful
pile of parts that go into a float plus some custom extrusions.
Drew

At 09:16 PM 4/17/2003 -0800, you wrote:

Anyone know of kits available in the 1800 size other than Murphy? Find

their

kit too pricey for 6061-T6. Am an old EDO fan and draw the line on the

soft

metal verses 2024. Might be designing my own if I can't find something

else.

Would build a set of Cap 1800's if I could find a set of bulk heads.

Have a

set of EDO 1650's for my Christavia with new skins top and bottom, new

angle,

chines etc. but won't sell them till I start on another set for the

Rebel.

Requested info from Aqua but they look quite stubby and are a bit on

the

heavy side. Any Bites?
Thanks
Steve W.

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Drew Dalgleish

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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Steve, when you see the Zenair plans you'll just shake your head vigorously
and continue on your "quest"!! ;o))

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, April 18, 2003 2:03 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats

Thanks for the reply, Drew. I,ve had the North Air drawing for years. They
are extremely heavy for their size. I,ve built 2 complete sets of other
floats plus alot of repairs and yes there is alot of parts. I flew in
Newfoundland for a number of years and they don't call it the "Rock" for
nothing. For serious float flying, 2024 is the best for construction from
my experiences thus far in life. From working with the 6061 and

accidently

releasing my cleco plyers too quickly, I've experienced the end result of
several dents in the .020 skins. ( all plyers now have a wad of tape on

the

lower handle ends!) Talked to a buddy a few minutes ago and he has the
Zenith 1900 plans. I'll see they next weekend.
When I first looked at the Murphy straight 1800's they were on special for
about 5200cdn, now asking 9200. I had full intentions on using the kit
skins for templates only and use the 2024 for all of the exterior.

Steve w

From: Drew Dalgleish <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 13:25:34 -0400

For straight floats you could buy a set of 1500 drawings from Wag-aero

and

scale them up to suit yourself. I bought a set of 1800 amphibs and while
they are expensive I feel I got fair value for my money. There's an awful
pile of parts that go into a float plus some custom extrusions.
Drew

At 09:16 PM 4/17/2003 -0800, you wrote:

Anyone know of kits available in the 1800 size other than Murphy? Find

their

kit too pricey for 6061-T6. Am an old EDO fan and draw the line on the

soft

metal verses 2024. Might be designing my own if I can't find something

else.

Would build a set of Cap 1800's if I could find a set of bulk heads.

Have a

set of EDO 1650's for my Christavia with new skins top and bottom, new

angle,

chines etc. but won't sell them till I start on another set for the

Rebel.

Requested info from Aqua but they look quite stubby and are a bit on

the

heavy side. Any Bites?
Thanks
Steve W.

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[Bob Patterson]

Hi Steve !

The Murphy floats are a bargain compared to ANY factory
certified floats - and you can get them factory-built if you want !
The 6061 has proven to be MUCH more resistant to corrosion than 2024,
and the Murphy 1800's are lighter than any certified floats I've seen
near that size - and they work GREAT on Rebels !!

However - if you already have a set of EDO 1650's, you
could just stick them on the Rebel. Several people have flown
O-320 Rebels on 1500 Murphy floats, with acceptable results,
so the EDO's should be OK too .... even if they <are> heavier
and don't get off as quickly ! ;-^) ;-) :-)

......bobp

PS
Skin thicknesses have been increased on recent float kits -
it might be worth asking. Also, you can order even heavier side skins
as an option, IF you think it's worth it ! (At least ONE builder
has already done this !) :-)

------------------------------orig.-----------------------------------
At 09:16 PM 4/17/03 -0800, you wrote:

Anyone know of kits available in the 1800 size other than Murphy? Find their
kit too pricey for 6061-T6. Am an old EDO fan and draw the line on the soft
metal verses 2024. Might be designing my own if I can't find something else.
Would build a set of Cap 1800's if I could find a set of bulk heads. Have a
set of EDO 1650's for my Christavia with new skins top and bottom, new angle,
chines etc. but won't sell them till I start on another set for the Rebel.
Requested info from Aqua but they look quite stubby and are a bit on the
heavy side. Any Bites?
Thanks
Steve W.


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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

While we are on the float thread, and I know there are quite a few that are
close to installing, thought I would share the installation of a rub strip
at the keel tail.

Every set of amphibs I have looked under or worked on has the keel strip
worn from dragging along the pavement in a slightly over flared attitude.
Some worn through to the point of the rear compartment leaking. What I have
been doing is taking a piece of .063 x 6" long and bending to the "V" shape
(or using a piece of cutoff from the building process in the case of MAM
1800's) and simply bonding it overtop of the existing keel and rivets with
Sikaflex. This gives you an expendable/replaceable wear strip that can be
pried off when it gets close to being worn through and then another one can
be slapped in place without any damage to float itself!

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, April 18, 2003 5:05 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats

Steve, when you see the Zenair plans you'll just shake your head

vigorously

and continue on your "quest"!! ;o))

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, April 18, 2003 2:03 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats

Thanks for the reply, Drew. I,ve had the North Air drawing for years.

They

are extremely heavy for their size. I,ve built 2 complete sets of other
floats plus alot of repairs and yes there is alot of parts. I flew in
Newfoundland for a number of years and they don't call it the "Rock" for
nothing. For serious float flying, 2024 is the best for construction

from

my experiences thus far in life. From working with the 6061 and

accidently

releasing my cleco plyers too quickly, I've experienced the end result

of

several dents in the .020 skins. ( all plyers now have a wad of tape on

the

lower handle ends!) Talked to a buddy a few minutes ago and he has the
Zenith 1900 plans. I'll see they next weekend.
When I first looked at the Murphy straight 1800's they were on special

for

about 5200cdn, now asking 9200. I had full intentions on using the kit
skins for templates only and use the 2024 for all of the exterior.

Steve w

From: Drew Dalgleish <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 13:25:34 -0400

For straight floats you could buy a set of 1500 drawings from Wag-aero

and

scale them up to suit yourself. I bought a set of 1800 amphibs and

while

they are expensive I feel I got fair value for my money. There's an

awful

pile of parts that go into a float plus some custom extrusions.
Drew

At 09:16 PM 4/17/2003 -0800, you wrote:

Find

their

the

soft

something

else. Have a

new

angle, Rebel.

the

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[steve whitenect]

Thanks for the reply, Drew. I,ve had the North Air drawing for years. They
are extremely heavy for their size. I,ve built 2 complete sets of other
floats plus alot of repairs and yes there is alot of parts. I flew in
Newfoundland for a number of years and they don't call it the "Rock" for
nothing. For serious float flying, 2024 is the best for construction from
my experiences thus far in life. From working with the 6061 and accidently
releasing my cleco plyers too quickly, I've experienced the end result of
several dents in the .020 skins. ( all plyers now have a wad of tape on the
lower handle ends!) Talked to a buddy a few minutes ago and he has the
Zenith 1900 plans. I'll see they next weekend.
When I first looked at the Murphy straight 1800's they were on special for
about 5200cdn, now asking 9200. I had full intentions on using the kit
skins for templates only and use the 2024 for all of the exterior.

Steve w

From: Drew Dalgleish <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 13:25:34 -0400

For straight floats you could buy a set of 1500 drawings from Wag-aero and
scale them up to suit yourself. I bought a set of 1800 amphibs and while
they are expensive I feel I got fair value for my money. There's an awful
pile of parts that go into a float plus some custom extrusions.
Drew

At 09:16 PM 4/17/2003 -0800, you wrote:

Anyone know of kits available in the 1800 size other than Murphy? Find

their

kit too pricey for 6061-T6. Am an old EDO fan and draw the line on the

soft

metal verses 2024. Might be designing my own if I can't find something

else.

Would build a set of Cap 1800's if I could find a set of bulk heads.

Have a

set of EDO 1650's for my Christavia with new skins top and bottom, new

angle,

chines etc. but won't sell them till I start on another set for the

Rebel.

Requested info from Aqua but they look quite stubby and are a bit on the
heavy side. Any Bites?
Thanks
Steve W.


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[George Coy]

I put new bottoms on a set of 1650A floats a few years back. Put them on a
C150 and was the worst combination for a floatplane I ever experienced. I
cannot believe it was certified. The 150 did not have enough wing or power.
The 1650A's did not ever seem to plane on step well. I think the e "V" is
too deep for the length to the step. I was lucky to sell them for what I had
in them. (not my time just my cost).
George Coy

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Wayne
G. O'Shea
Sent: Friday, April 18, 2003 5:03 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 1800 floats

Steve, if you love the EDO line so much, why not pick up a set of 1850's
from a C150/152 and make up some mounting gear?? If they don't work right
remove the mounting gear and put back the C150 mounting and they'll still be
certified with a wide open market for resale!

What I don't like about EDO and the likes is the lower number of separate
compartments (MAM's have EIGHT/float!). I was amazed when I looked inside a
set of EDO1650's thinking I could easily turn them into a set of amphibs by
bolting a gear assembly to the step bulkhead, only to find that there isn't
even a bulkhead at the step and that it is one long giant hollow
compartment.

Corrosion resistant 6061T6 vs corrosion susceptible 2024T3! Huummmm! May be
as many possible negatives as plus' going either way. Also since 2024 is
harder and breaks easier (evident by the 3x as much bending radius 2024
needs over 6061) is it not possible that the 6061 just may dent on a rock,
where as the 2024 will tear a hole! I don't know just speculating!!!!!!!

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, April 18, 2003 2:03 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats

Thanks for the reply, Drew. I,ve had the North Air drawing for years. They
are extremely heavy for their size. I,ve built 2 complete sets of other
floats plus alot of repairs and yes there is alot of parts. I flew in
Newfoundland for a number of years and they don't call it the "Rock" for
nothing. For serious float flying, 2024 is the best for construction from
my experiences thus far in life. From working with the 6061 and

accidently

releasing my cleco plyers too quickly, I've experienced the end result of
several dents in the .020 skins. ( all plyers now have a wad of tape on

the

lower handle ends!) Talked to a buddy a few minutes ago and he has the
Zenith 1900 plans. I'll see they next weekend.
When I first looked at the Murphy straight 1800's they were on special for
about 5200cdn, now asking 9200. I had full intentions on using the kit
skins for templates only and use the 2024 for all of the exterior.

Steve w

From: Drew Dalgleish <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 13:25:34 -0400

For straight floats you could buy a set of 1500 drawings from Wag-aero

and

scale them up to suit yourself. I bought a set of 1800 amphibs and while
they are expensive I feel I got fair value for my money. There's an awful
pile of parts that go into a float plus some custom extrusions.
Drew

At 09:16 PM 4/17/2003 -0800, you wrote:

Anyone know of kits available in the 1800 size other than Murphy? Find

their

kit too pricey for 6061-T6. Am an old EDO fan and draw the line on the

soft

metal verses 2024. Might be designing my own if I can't find something

else.

Would build a set of Cap 1800's if I could find a set of bulk heads.

Have a

set of EDO 1650's for my Christavia with new skins top and bottom, new

angle,

chines etc. but won't sell them till I start on another set for the

Rebel.

Requested info from Aqua but they look quite stubby and are a bit on

the

heavy side. Any Bites?
Thanks
Steve W.

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[rebel]

Hi George, Just saw your message after replying to Wayne's message. The 150's
were a dog on floats unless you had the 150 hp Lyc. Did you have the
directional rails or "Boosters" as they are more commonly known repaced as
well? Without them on the 1650's performance was extremely poor. They didn't
have enough plaining surface The 2000's as I stated to Wayne are identical.
Same angle on the bottom but they had 18" more plaining surface. They
couldn't have been too bad. I believe they were the most producted float in
existance. I flew a set of 1650's on my Christavia with a gross weight of
1650 on floats for about 400hrs and the combination was ok. I had an 0-235-
C1 so didn't have an abundance of power either. I have heard alot of
negatives on these floats over the years. They really teach you how to fly!


Steve W.



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[steve whitenect]

Hi Wayne and all and thanks for the response to my questions.

I'm not really in love with the EDO's because every time you want to replace
something, you have to make an appointment with your banker to see if you
can afford it. 1850's are a series that I have never heard of. The only
float certified for the 150/152 Cessnas was the 1650A's. The next in line
was the 2000's. Identical to the 1650's but 18" longer and another bulk
head. I have rebuilt a set of 1650's that had the serial numbers 10029 and
30. EDO says they were the 29th and 30th float in that series that they
build for the Piper family in the 1940's. I rebuilt these about 1997;
roughly 45 years of age. They had no corrision on any of the parts and none
of the lap joints were chromated. Unknown if they had any salt water
history; I would suspect not. As far as tearing a hole thru 2024, I was
taxing one day while out fishing, not on the step but not at an idle and hit
a rock, a rough white granite rock. I felt it hit hard and it actually tiped
the fuse forward. I just headed to the nearest beach expecting to find a
large gash somewhere on the bottom. I found a scuff three to four inches
long just before the second bulk head. Ended up replacing a couple of rivets
in that location.
The 1650's that I have now weigh 80 lbs a barrel = 160 lbs plus struts
spreaders etc to 205 total. Does anyone have the total weight up to the
fuselage bolts for the straight 1800's?. I see three different weights
quoted by Murphy.
I'm thinking of making a set along the lines of the 1650's but extending
them 10 inches in front of the step plus a bulk head, plus flat deck which
shud put them in the 1800 range.
Nice to have people to bounce ideas off of!

Steve W


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[George Coy]

Reference the 1650A floats. Oh Yes I had the 0-200 in the C150 with a 39"
pitched prop. (it would over rev at cruise) I even had the very expensive
new boosters from EDO. I considered filling them with helium! I think that
EDO only made about 4 sets and the same four sets keep going from one person
to another. Yes the 2000's were great. I flew them a lot and you are right
the additional planning surface made the difference. I usually got her in
the air directly from the plow position. If you pushed over to plane she
would loose speed and the angle of attack was such that it would not fly.
George

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2003 4:53 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: 1800 floats

Hi George, Just saw your message after replying to Wayne's message. The
150's
were a dog on floats unless you had the 150 hp Lyc. Did you have the
directional rails or "Boosters" as they are more commonly known repaced as
well? Without them on the 1650's performance was extremely poor. They didn't
have enough plaining surface The 2000's as I stated to Wayne are identical.
Same angle on the bottom but they had 18" more plaining surface. They
couldn't have been too bad. I believe they were the most producted float in
existance. I flew a set of 1650's on my Christavia with a gross weight of
1650 on floats for about 400hrs and the combination was ok. I had an 0-235-
C1 so didn't have an abundance of power either. I have heard alot of
negatives on these floats over the years. They really teach you how to fly!


Steve W.



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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Steve, I think I meant 1650's! They are hollow at the step area are they
not, without a bulkhead here?? However, maybe I'm thinking the wrong floats
that I looked in as 1850 still rings a bell in my head. Maybe they were
older Whips? Did they make an 1850?

As for the weight of a set of MAM 1800 straight floats and mounting gear, I
have a nice (approx 20hr TT) set sitting in the hanger that are currently
seperated from each other, the spreader bars and mounting gear. If I can get
my two girls to help me later today I will weight them all up and give you
at total.

Anyone that is looking for a set of completed and ready to go straight MAM
1800's send me a personal email oifa@irishfield.on.ca and maybe we can work
out a deal! I was thinking of converting them to amphibs, but considering
the time it took to "simply" stretch a set of 1500 amphibs by 21", to make
them 1800's, I think I'll just wait for my prebuilts to arrive and install a
set of those to my plane instead!! ;o))

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2003 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats

Hi Wayne and all and thanks for the response to my questions.

I'm not really in love with the EDO's because every time you want to

replace

something, you have to make an appointment with your banker to see if you
can afford it. 1850's are a series that I have never heard of. The only
float certified for the 150/152 Cessnas was the 1650A's. The next in line
was the 2000's. Identical to the 1650's but 18" longer and another bulk
head. I have rebuilt a set of 1650's that had the serial numbers 10029

and

30. EDO says they were the 29th and 30th float in that series that they
build for the Piper family in the 1940's. I rebuilt these about 1997;
roughly 45 years of age. They had no corrision on any of the parts and

none

of the lap joints were chromated. Unknown if they had any salt water
history; I would suspect not. As far as tearing a hole thru 2024, I was
taxing one day while out fishing, not on the step but not at an idle and

hit

a rock, a rough white granite rock. I felt it hit hard and it actually

tiped

the fuse forward. I just headed to the nearest beach expecting to find a
large gash somewhere on the bottom. I found a scuff three to four inches
long just before the second bulk head. Ended up replacing a couple of

rivets

in that location.
The 1650's that I have now weigh 80 lbs a barrel = 160 lbs plus struts
spreaders etc to 205 total. Does anyone have the total weight up to the
fuselage bolts for the straight 1800's?. I see three different weights
quoted by Murphy.
I'm thinking of making a set along the lines of the 1650's but extending
them 10 inches in front of the step plus a bulk head, plus flat deck which
shud put them in the 1800 range.
Nice to have people to bounce ideas off of!

Steve W


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Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Steve et all!

Weight of 1800 straight floats I have here are as follows (these have the
.020 side skins).
Each PAINTED float = 78lbs x 2 = 156lb
Spreader bar 8.5lb x 2 = 17lbs
Mounting gear that have steps etc = 27lbs
X cables and all attach hardware including the fuselage attach bolts = 6lbs
Total weight of installation = 206lbs
Landing gear removal weight from a Rebel when you install the floats is
approximately 50lbs if you have the bungees and MAM tail wheel. +4lbs more
if you have a Scott 3200 +6lbs more if you have my die springs instead of
bungees +approximately another 8 lbs if you have the Cessna style leaf gear.

FYI, My "stretched" amphibs weigh 118lbs/float for a total installed weight
of 286lbs. Pretty darn good considering they weighed 277lb when I removed
them as 1500's so I only added approximately 9 lbs to them, making them 21"
longer! Also nice to see that the amphibs are only 80lbs more than
straights, as in the certified world this "differental" number goes through
the roof!

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2003 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats

Steve, I think I meant 1650's! They are hollow at the step area are they
not, without a bulkhead here?? However, maybe I'm thinking the wrong

floats

that I looked in as 1850 still rings a bell in my head. Maybe they were
older Whips? Did they make an 1850?

As for the weight of a set of MAM 1800 straight floats and mounting gear,

I

have a nice (approx 20hr TT) set sitting in the hanger that are currently
seperated from each other, the spreader bars and mounting gear. If I can

get

my two girls to help me later today I will weight them all up and give you
at total.

Anyone that is looking for a set of completed and ready to go straight MAM
1800's send me a personal email oifa@irishfield.on.ca and maybe we can

work

out a deal! I was thinking of converting them to amphibs, but considering
the time it took to "simply" stretch a set of 1500 amphibs by 21", to make
them 1800's, I think I'll just wait for my prebuilts to arrive and install

a

set of those to my plane instead!! ;o))

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2003 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats

Hi Wayne and all and thanks for the response to my questions.

I'm not really in love with the EDO's because every time you want to

replace

something, you have to make an appointment with your banker to see if

you

can afford it. 1850's are a series that I have never heard of. The

only

float certified for the 150/152 Cessnas was the 1650A's. The next in

line

was the 2000's. Identical to the 1650's but 18" longer and another bulk
head. I have rebuilt a set of 1650's that had the serial numbers 10029

and

30. EDO says they were the 29th and 30th float in that series that they
build for the Piper family in the 1940's. I rebuilt these about 1997;
roughly 45 years of age. They had no corrision on any of the parts and

none

of the lap joints were chromated. Unknown if they had any salt water
history; I would suspect not. As far as tearing a hole thru 2024, I was
taxing one day while out fishing, not on the step but not at an idle and

hit

a rock, a rough white granite rock. I felt it hit hard and it actually

tiped

the fuse forward. I just headed to the nearest beach expecting to find a
large gash somewhere on the bottom. I found a scuff three to four inches
long just before the second bulk head. Ended up replacing a couple of

rivets

in that location.
The 1650's that I have now weigh 80 lbs a barrel = 160 lbs plus struts
spreaders etc to 205 total. Does anyone have the total weight up to the
fuselage bolts for the straight 1800's?. I see three different weights
quoted by Murphy.
I'm thinking of making a set along the lines of the 1650's but extending
them 10 inches in front of the step plus a bulk head, plus flat deck

which

shud put them in the 1800 range.
Nice to have people to bounce ideas off of!

Steve W


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