Tools that I have found very useful:
You have to fabricate parts a lot more than I thought before I started, versus having nicely prepared kit parts. Especially gussets. The following two tools are invaluable. The disk sander will be used thousands of times to round all the corners that you will want to round off. Saves a huge amount of time over using a hand file.
6" or larger bench/disk sander.
Bench band saw. Use a small toothed wood cutting blade instead of a metal cutting blade. Doesn't load up with melted aluminum.
You'll want a rotary tool like a Dremel. Most common accessories will be sanding disks and cut-off wheels.
Air shear. Man, I can't believe I waited so long to get one! Same comment on Unibits. Sears sells their own version of a Unibit too.
I would not buy a rivet gun for the main spars if I had it to do over again. Instead, I would buy a good rivet squeezer with a deep channel so the whole main spar can be reached. This is the only place where solid rivets are used and the squeezer does a much nicer job on the solid rivets. Since it's just a big flat piece there's no access problems for the rivets.
I've found that 30cc syringes are an ideal way to get a 2 to 1 mix of however much chromate I need for whatever part is ready.
Don't forget to get some wooden dowel - about a half inch diameter is what I use. Drill a little hole in the end big enough for the 3/16 rivet mandrels to fit in. Use the dowel to help push stubborn rivets into the holes.
Of course, all of the stuff listed in Terry's email as well. Make sure you have plenty of long drill bits. #30 and #40 6 inches and 12 inches. And a 12 inch #10 or 11 too. (Although MAM recommends using a #11 for 3/16 holes, many references show #10, are easier to get the rivet in, and is still fine. I may get some debate on this. Your choice.) You break the #40 12 inch bits pretty easily since they are kind of "floppy", but they can be the only way to get your hole drilled sometimes.
You will absolutely need a close quarter 90 degree drill attachment. I can't remember where I got mine but it might have been ATS. I know I didn't pay the $168 bucks Aircraft Spruce wants for their kit.
I bought a shrinker/stretcher and used it a couple of times, but I wouldn't get one if I had to do it over again. It's not used enough to warrant the cost. However, my buddy has a tool that I have borrowed that was really nifty for straightening flanges. It's a plier like tool with three tines on one side and two tines on the other side that intertwine when squeezed. It works great for taking out ripples in flanges and I don't know how I would have angled the upper firewall flange to match the angle of the upper instrument panel deck where they meet without it. I don't even know what you call this tool.
Mike Kimball
SR#044
-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]
On Behalf Of Trevor Philbrick
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 9:39 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Getting started
Hello all, future rebel builder here just looking for a little advice. I'm awaiting delivery of tail kit 725R next week and am in need of aquiring some tools in addition to the basic kit (ie pneumatic riveter and drill). Any suggestions on makes/ models and additional tools. Also would appreciate any leads on publications/ web sites to help get the courage to drill that first hole. Thanks in advance.
Trevor Philbrick 725R
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