The Murphy Builders Site

Interesting discussion. I got an older kit from Wayne O. It has the old, old
tailwheel mentioned by someone in this thread, with no castoring provisions.
I also got a fiberglass spring. Since nobody responded to the query about
how the old style tailwheel works I will ask again. Any comments on them?
Thanks,
Jesse

Hi Jesse !

That would be the old ULTRALIGHT Rebel kit, I guess - it has thinner
spars, thin skins, and an all-fabric tail ... and a low gross weight
(originally 1,057 lb).

You are lucky !! I love the fiberglass springs, and will continue
to use them on my Rebels as long as I can get them !! They absorb shocks
well, and have a very benign failure mode - they delaminate & let you
down slowly..... Much better than steel springs, that just snap !
And infinitely better than the solid chunk of aluminum that now comes
as a "spring" - these can work IF you machine/grind them down to
taper from about 1" thick (!) to under 1/2" at the tailwheel attach end.

You should, of course, do Ontario Mod. #1 - a doubler over FUS-30,
to tie the top bulkhead, rudder post, and front triangular pieces together,
to better distribute the loads. Even if you are building as an ultralight !
This is one area that field experience has provided a 'fix' for - and
it IS necessary !

The old, original tailwheel worked great - Rebel #001 is still flying
with that tailwheel ! It is a bit awkward for ground handling - you can't
push it backwards !! Fortunately, the old tailwheel can be retrofitted to
become a full-swivel wheel, as now shipped. There was an upgrade kit
shipped 'way back about 1993 for this, and all the parts are still available.
This is a worthwhile thing to do - it makes ground handling much easier,
and will reduce the radius of your turns, as well.

What engine are you planning ??

......bobp

PS
If you are not going to use the fiberglass spring, you can toss it
my way ! :-)

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Thursday 11 August 2005 12:27 pm, Jesse Jenks wrote:

Interesting discussion. I got an older kit from Wayne O. It has the

old, old

tailwheel mentioned by someone in this thread, with no castoring

provisions.

I also got a fiberglass spring. Since nobody responded to the query about
how the old style tailwheel works I will ask again. Any comments on them?
Thanks,
Jesse

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Bob,

Now you've gone and done it, confused me again; and you know how easy that
is to do.

My Rebel kit has the fiberglass tail spring and Daryl told me it is the
1650 kit because it includes the extra leading edge rib 1A.

Did I misunderstand that the fiberglass spring denotes ultra-light? Or was
it the combination of non-castering wheel and fiberglass spring?

Mounting the tailwheel is far in my future so I haven't yet studied the
parts carefully.

Interesting and informative discussion thanks to all.

John...369R




At 12:56 PM 08/11/05, you wrote:

Hi Jesse !

That would be the old ULTRALIGHT Rebel kit, I guess - it has thinner
spars, thin skins, and an all-fabric tail ... and a low gross weight
(originally 1,057 lb).

You are lucky !! I love the fiberglass springs, and will continue
to use them on my Rebels as long as I can get them !! They absorb shocks
well, and have a very benign failure mode - they delaminate & let you
down slowly..... Much better than steel springs, that just snap !
And infinitely better than the solid chunk of aluminum that now comes
as a "spring" - these can work IF you machine/grind them down to
taper from about 1" thick (!) to under 1/2" at the tailwheel attach end.

You should, of course, do Ontario Mod. #1 - a doubler over FUS-30,
to tie the top bulkhead, rudder post, and front triangular pieces together,
to better distribute the loads. Even if you are building as an ultralight !
This is one area that field experience has provided a 'fix' for - and
it IS necessary !

The old, original tailwheel worked great - Rebel #001 is still

with that tailwheel ! It is a bit awkward for ground handling - you can't
push it backwards !! Fortunately, the old tailwheel can be retrofitted to
become a full-swivel wheel, as now shipped. There was an upgrade kit
shipped 'way back about 1993 for this, and all the parts are still

This is a worthwhile thing to do - it makes ground handling much easier,
and will reduce the radius of your turns, as well.

What engine are you planning ??

......bobp

PS
If you are not going to use the fiberglass spring, you can toss it
my way ! :-)

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Thursday 11 August 2005 12:27 pm, Jesse Jenks wrote:

Interesting discussion. I got an older kit from Wayne O. It has the

old, old

tailwheel mentioned by someone in this thread, with no castoring

provisions.

I also got a fiberglass spring. Since nobody responded to the query

how the old style tailwheel works I will ask again. Any comments on

Thanks,
Jesse

-----------------------------------------------------------------
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username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

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-----------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Jesse !

That would be the old ULTRALIGHT Rebel kit, I guess - it has thinner
spars, thin skins, and an all-fabric tail ... and a low gross weight
(originally 1,057 lb).

You are lucky !! I love the fiberglass springs, and will continue
to use them on my Rebels as long as I can get them !! They absorb shocks
well, and have a very benign failure mode - they delaminate & let you
down slowly..... Much better than steel springs, that just snap !
And infinitely better than the solid chunk of aluminum that now comes
as a "spring" - these can work IF you machine/grind them down to
taper from about 1" thick (!) to under 1/2" at the tailwheel attach end.

You should, of course, do Ontario Mod. #1 - a doubler over FUS-30,
to tie the top bulkhead, rudder post, and front triangular pieces

to better distribute the loads. Even if you are building as an ultralight

This is one area that field experience has provided a 'fix' for - and
it IS necessary !

The old, original tailwheel worked great - Rebel #001 is still

with that tailwheel ! It is a bit awkward for ground handling - you can't
push it backwards !! Fortunately, the old tailwheel can be retrofitted to
become a full-swivel wheel, as now shipped. There was an upgrade kit
shipped 'way back about 1993 for this, and all the parts are still

This is a worthwhile thing to do - it makes ground handling much easier,
and will reduce the radius of your turns, as well.

What engine are you planning ??

......bobp

PS
If you are not going to use the fiberglass spring, you can toss it
my way ! :-)

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Thursday 11 August 2005 12:27 pm, Jesse Jenks wrote:

Interesting discussion. I got an older kit from Wayne O. It has the old,

tailwheel mentioned by someone in this thread, with no castoring

I also got a fiberglass spring. Since nobody responded to the query

how the old style tailwheel works I will ask again. Any comments on

Thanks,
Jesse

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------