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Any news on Moose elevator/fin post interference?

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:04 pm
by moose2b
Sorry, I think I double posted the subject.

Wayne, you posted a possible fix involving moving the "V" ribs outboard. Looks
like that could work, but would have to juggle some rivet spacing to make
things work out on the EL-451 center gusset. Have you heard anything recently
from MAM? (I'd have to order my third pair of EL-450's - screwed up the first
ones, second set look good but already drilled and fitted to the existing skin
shape!)

I found another potential gotcha yesterday - there are two different elevator
horn gusset blanks. One set has a sharp 90 degree radius to fit on the outside
of the Moose horns, the other a more gentle radius to mate up to the inside of
the 2500 horns. I found this after I messed up the first set making them fit a
2500, (upgrade manual wasn't real clear that there is a placement difference
between 2500 and Moose) and the second set of blanks I received put the radius
too close to the rivet line. Brian at MAM said they must have sent the 2500
pieces by mistake, he was going to go pull the right ones from stock and send
them out to me.

Terry






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Any news on Moose elevator/fin post interference?

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:04 pm
by Wayne G. O'Shea
Terry, I haven't heard anything from Brian Godden since my last post in
regards to the fin/elevator interference. I suggested 3 scenarios to Brian,
for up and coming kits, and haven't heard the final verdict of how MAM is
going to proceed.

I'm not currently working on the SR, as I'm back in "rebel mode" right now
and currently finishing up the fuselage repairs on a customers airplane.
Then I have a week or so of wing repairs/upgrades and hope to have it all
back together by months end and ready to fly out of here (if his engine
re-builder delivers on time). Then I will get back on the SR, after some
float re-installations and the other madness that spring brings around here!

As for the interference, I still plan to open out the elevator "V" (even
though mines already closed up) and if anyone decides to follow suit you do
so on your own accord. MAM's suggested fix at this time is to hack out the
.063 spar caps and reinforce the fin post with angles, as per the pictures I
posted to the archive files. If the elevator is not closed it makes a lot
more sense, <TO ME>, to move the ribs outboard by the amount required to
clean the rivet holes off the skin (about 3/8"+/-). There would be the exact
same trim requirement on the doubler plates, where they follow the skin edge
out along the ribs. The EL-450 rib overlap, at the strap that wraps around
the elevator horns, would of course now be a 3/8" short and the rivet holes
would no longer line up. No big deal <IN MY MIND> as the old holes will be
about 3/8" away from the new, so no strength degradation at the strap area.
IF you haven't cut and fitted the new inboard EL-450 ribs, just a matter of
making the flange a 3/8" or so longer on each side to completely cover the
gap as per the upgrade instructions.

Well that blows lunch!! I've got to get back out to the shop!!

Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: <moose2b@dcsol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2002 11:27 PM
Subject: Any news on Moose elevator/fin post interference?

Sorry, I think I double posted the subject.

Wayne, you posted a possible fix involving moving the "V" ribs outboard.
Looks
like that could work, but would have to juggle some rivet spacing to make
things work out on the EL-451 center gusset. Have you heard anything
recently
from MAM? (I'd have to order my third pair of EL-450's - screwed up the
first
ones, second set look good but already drilled and fitted to the existing
skin
shape!)

I found another potential gotcha yesterday - there are two different
elevator
horn gusset blanks. One set has a sharp 90 degree radius to fit on the
outside
of the Moose horns, the other a more gentle radius to mate up to the
inside of
the 2500 horns. I found this after I messed up the first set making them
fit a
2500, (upgrade manual wasn't real clear that there is a placement
difference
between 2500 and Moose) and the second set of blanks I received put the
radius
too close to the rivet line. Brian at MAM said they must have sent the
2500
pieces by mistake, he was going to go pull the right ones from stock and
send
them out to me.

Terry




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