The Murphy Builders Site

Hi Guys and Gals.

Before everyone runs out to buy hat bushings for the stab and fin hinges I
thought I better add the following.

After completing the upgrades and closing all the tail feathers up I found
that I had to remove the hat bushings from the inboard 3 hinges on the stab.
The fin with the 3 "hats" worked great, as to a nice fit of the rudder. The
stab with all the "hats" in the hinges wouldn't allow fitting of the
elevator. I left the two outboard hinges with the "hats" and they hold the
elevator perfectly centered on the stab, with an even tip clearance at each
end. I had to remove the 3 inboard hats and replace them with straight
sleeves (that are just slightly less than the width of the gap between the
elevator hinge bracket pairs). The sleeves were then pressed into place in
the stab brackets and adjusted for center between the elevators hinge
brackets.

I should also add that I will most likely use drilled head bolts (and safety
tie to the structure) for the extra guarantee that the bolts will not spin
in the elevator or rudder hinge brackets. If they spin, it would ultimately
defeat the whole idea of having "throw away" wear by using the bushings on
the mating brackets in the first place.

The real fun part is that the elevator/stab hinge bolts are even worse to
put in than the rudder. The rudder has more generous gaps cut out and I
think the elevator may just have the same before I'm done!!!

Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002 5:43 PM
Subject: SR - Fus/stab attach bracket bolts and Fin/Stab hinge bushings

Hello again SR'ers.

It does say in the manual to use 1/4" bolts. Manual dated 21/06/99 Step

98:

"Bolt the two Fus-370 front stab mounts and two Fus-371 rear stab mounts

in

plane with the AN4 bolts. The rear mounts ---------------"

It does not, unfortunately, tell you to drill them to a 1/4" at any point
before hand.

As for the hinges on the Fin and Stab, I did in fact ream them out and
install "hat" bushings today. I just happened to have the 8 bushings
required in my surplus stuff, no less/no more just enough to do the job.

The

ones I used are 1/4" ID x 3/8" O.D with a 1/2" diameter flange that is

.059

thick. Overall width is .322, which left just over 1/4" on the 3/8"

diameter

(which nicely matches the hinge width). The flange will also work as my
thrust face so two things licked at once. Bushings should be easy to get
from any machinery supply outlet and/or various other places.

*******Please don't try this yourself unless you have the proper straight
reamers to match the bushing O.D, so once you put a coat of chromate on

the

area and press it in, it will stay there and not spin.******

**Posted two pictures to SR - Tail Feathers section. A little flash
"washed", but you can tell what they are!

Once again I must also state that the above is just my personal adlib on
building this thing. The final decision to do similar rests totally with
you!

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 11:23 PM
Subject: Re: Anchor Nut & Another Option

Don and all SR'ers.

I almost bolted the stab attach brackets into the tail cone with 3/16

bolts,

on initial assembly, and then realized that the slots in the rear set

are

1/4" wide. Somewhere in the manual it tells you to use 1/4" bolts and I
<think> I read somewhere that you had to drill them to 1/4" to put those
1/4" bolts in!!

As for the Proseal, I think this is just Brian G's sealer of choice.

Back

when I discussed the necessity of the Rebel tail post SB with him he

told

me

that he liked to put the tail section of the Rebel together with proseal

as

well. It will definitely seal out water as well if not better than the

EP420

(or your corrosion proofer of choice) and of course it does a better job

of

"gluing" everything together to stop things (like rivets) from

"working".

I'll make up my mind, on what to use, the morning I finally get to it!

Now you post a great idea like that! Will be great if you ever have to
change the hinges from wear. It will happen with the bolt just riding on
aluminium. The big thing is to make sure when you put the bolts in that

they

are tight so they don't rotate in the rudder/elevator hinges. This will
leave only the fin/stab hinges to wear which are easy to get at and hone

and

insert bushings into when the time comes (or I might just do that now!).
That way you may never need to take the hinges off, but I like your wire
idea. Haven't closed the stab so not too late for me there. Will have to
have a look and see what I have for bolts, or start drilling some. The

fin

is too late and I'm not going to open it back up.

The drilled head bolts should have the same tension strength as the

others.

Just think prop bolts have a hole through the head and heck a "real"

prop

bollt AN73 has 3 holes drilled through the head!!!

If you want some anchors contact me off line!

Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Boardman" <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 9:58 PM
Subject: Anchor Nut & Another Option

Hi Wayne,

Good luck with your off loading Chinese Fire Drill. We where fortunate

that

Aerocet did a great job of crating. 40"X40"x22' , built very well and

VERY

HEAVY.

You mentioned the close of your tail feathers. MAM recommends

installing

the

external doublers using proseal. When we contacted the manufacturer,

to

order, they indicated that proseal for fuel was not there best product

to

prevent corrosion between layers. We used the "corrosion proseal"

(product

number in the shop I can forward it if you want) It was brushable and
similar to the fuel brushable proseal. We used in between all the

large

doublers and skin in the upgrade. We also used it for skin structure

laps

in

the tail feathers. (built from kit).

I felt the same way about the K2000's that's why I asked.

The anchor nuts ... you mention 1/4 x 28. Our Horizontal bracket bolts

are

3/16. ??????

You know Wayne, it wasn't so much the $24, a drop in the OCEAN as they

say

when it comes to the cost of this project. I think it was the idea of
spending $3 on a 3/16 nut.

Anyway, I'd rather give you the $16 bucks + postage than the Big ACS.

BUT, do you think it is necessary to go 1/4" bolts when MAM supplied

3/16.

(more bolts to order)

Will wait for your response before making a decision on bolt size.

On another matter.
To prevent hinge bolts from spinning in the event we needed to

re-torque

at

a future time or replace the various control hinges we used bolts with
drilled heads on the inside of the structure and used stiff wire to

pin

the

two heads together to prevent head rotation. Worked fine.

Question, do you know if the drilled head bolts have the same strength

in

tension as undrilled.?

Regards,
Don Boardman
& Partner
Randy Bowers
SR3500#130 "The Muskie" M-14PF Aerocet 3400 amphibs, Rome, NY





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