Prosealed seams

LisaFly99 · Post by **LisaFly99** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:59 pm

In a message dated 3/13/02 10:26:38 PM Central Standard Time, oifa@irishfield.on.ca writes:

As for the Proseal, I think this is just Brian G's sealer of choice. Back
when I discussed the necessity of the Rebel tail post SB with him he told me
that he liked to put the tail section of the Rebel together with proseal as
well. It will definitely seal out water as well if not better than the EP420
(or your corrosion proofer of choice) and of course it does a better job of
"gluing" everything together to stop things (like rivets) from "working".

WAYNE
RUMMER has it that when the BD5 fuselage was being developed it was put together with Proseal, then the rivets where drilled out, the fuselage was put on a paint shaker for so long and the seams held tight.
Phil&Lisa Smith

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Peter Cowan/Lexi Cameron · Post by **Peter Cowan/Lexi Cameron** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:59 pm

As for the Proseal, I think this is just Brian G's sealer of choice. Back
when I discussed the necessity of the Rebel tail post SB with him he told me
that he liked to put the tail section of the Rebel together with proseal as
well. It will definitely seal out water as well if not better than the EP420
(or your corrosion proofer of choice) and of course it does a better job of
"gluing" everything together to stop things (like rivets) from "working".
WAYNE
RUMMER has it that when the BD5 fuselage was being developed it was put together with Proseal, then the rivets where drilled out, the fuselage was put on a paint shaker for so long and the seams held tight.
Phil&Lisa Smith Would using it mean that doing a repair would cause damage in getting things apart?Peter

LisaFly99 · Post by **LisaFly99** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:59 pm

In a message dated 3/14/02 9:56:38 AM Central Standard Time, cowcam@pipcom.com writes:

Would using it mean that doing a repair would cause damage in getting things apart?

VERY likely, And a good point.
Phil&Lisa Smith

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RJ Thomas · Post by **RJ Thomas** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:59 pm

Peter,

I had to pull some doublers off of the rear spar to accommodate new doublers for the 3500 upgrade on an SR. The spars were OK when I finished, but the old doublers were trashed. I don't believe I could have "saved" the parts even if I had tried.

Conversely, I rather stupidly installed the fuel tank access doublers on the bottom tank skin before installing the tank skin on the wing. I quickly discovered that my arms are not sufficiently articulated to allow for remedial ProSeal work through those doublers. Pulling the ProSeal'd doublers was a chore but was accomplished without the destruction of any parts.

I think it rather depends on the application, thin sheet and/or curves raise the risk factor considerably.

Cheers, rj

R J Thomas
Lafayette, LA
Super Rebel 3500 N140SR
+++++++++++++++++++++++++

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Cowan/Lexi Cameron [mailto:cowcam@pipcom.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002 9:58 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Prosealed seams

As for the Proseal, I think this is just Brian G's sealer of choice. Back
when I discussed the necessity of the Rebel tail post SB with him he told me
that he liked to put the tail section of the Rebel together with proseal as
well. It will definitely seal out water as well if not better than the EP420
(or your corrosion proofer of choice) and of course it does a better job of
"gluing" everything together to stop things (like rivets) from "working".

WAYNE
RUMMER has it that when the BD5 fuselage was being developed it was put together with Proseal, then the rivets where drilled out, the fuselage was put on a paint shaker for so long and the seams held tight.
Phil&Lisa Smith
Would using it mean that doing a repair would cause damage in getting things apart?
Peter

Peter Cowan/Lexi Cameron · Post by **Peter Cowan/Lexi Cameron** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:59 pm

Thanks for your experiences. I've often thought it is tempting to put something like proseal or 3M 5000 (or similer products) in float seams but the thought of doing a repair scares me.
Peter.

Peter,

I had to pull some doublers off of the rear spar to accommodate new doublers for the 3500 upgrade on an SR. The spars were OK when I finished, but the old doublers were trashed. I don't believe I could have "saved" the parts even if I had tried.

Conversely, I rather stupidly installed the fuel tank access doublers on the bottom tank skin before installing the tank skin on the wing. I quickly discovered that my arms are not sufficiently articulated to allow for remedial ProSeal work through those doublers. Pulling the ProSeal'd doublers was a chore but was accomplished without the destruction of any parts.

I think it rather depends on the application, thin sheet and/or curves raise the risk factor considerably.

Cheers, rj

R J Thomas
Lafayette, LA
Super Rebel 3500 N140SR
+++++++++++++++++++++++++

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Cowan/Lexi Cameron [mailto:cowcam@pipcom.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002 9:58 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Prosealed seams

As for the Proseal, I think this is just Brian G's sealer of choice. Back
when I discussed the necessity of the Rebel tail post SB with him he told me
that he liked to put the tail section of the Rebel together with proseal as
well. It will definitely seal out water as well if not better than the EP420
(or your corrosion proofer of choice) and of course it does a better job of
"gluing" everything together to stop things (like rivets) from "working".

WAYNE
RUMMER has it that when the BD5 fuselage was being developed it was put together with Proseal, then the rivets where drilled out, the fuselage was put on a paint shaker for so long and the seams held tight.
Phil&Lisa Smith
Would using it mean that doing a repair would cause damage in getting things apart?
Peter

George Coy · Post by **George Coy** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:59 pm

Tis true. There is a BD 5 slowly going together here at our airport and that is the process used. George Coy

-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of LisaFly99@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002 10:38 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Prosealed seams

In a message dated 3/13/02 10:26:38 PM Central Standard Time, oifa@irishfield.on.ca writes:

As for the Proseal, I think this is just Brian G's sealer of choice. Back
when I discussed the necessity of the Rebel tail post SB with him he told me
that he liked to put the tail section of the Rebel together with proseal as
well. It will definitely seal out water as well if not better than the EP420
(or your corrosion proofer of choice) and of course it does a better job of
"gluing" everything together to stop things (like rivets) from "working".
WAYNE
RUMMER has it that when the BD5 fuselage was being developed it was put together with Proseal, then the rivets where drilled out, the fuselage was put on a paint shaker for so long and the seams held tight.
Phil&Lisa Smith

Bob Patterson · Post by **Bob Patterson** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:59 pm

Hi Peter !

Using ProSeal or SikaFlex in the seams on floats is S.O.P. -
it's part of the Murphy float instructions. You really have to
use something like that to stop leaks ....

....bobp

----------------------------------orig.-------------------------------
At 11:40 AM 3/14/02 -0500, you wrote:

Thanks for your experiences. I've often thought it is tempting to put

something like proseal or 3M 5000 (or similer products) in float seams but
the thought of doing a repair scares me.

Peter.

Peter,

I had to pull some doublers off of the rear spar to accommodate new

doublers for the 3500 upgrade on an SR. The spars were OK when I finished,
but the old doublers were trashed. I don't believe I could have "saved"
the parts even if I had tried.

Conversely, I rather stupidly installed the fuel tank access doublers

on the bottom tank skin before installing the tank skin on the wing. I
quickly discovered that my arms are not sufficiently articulated to allow
for remedial ProSeal work through those doublers. Pulling the ProSeal'd
doublers was a chore but was accomplished without the destruction of any parts.

I think it rather depends on the application, thin sheet and/or curves

raise the risk factor considerably.

Cheers, rj

R J Thomas

Lafayette, LA

Super Rebel 3500 N140SR

+++++++++++++++++++++++++

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Cowan/Lexi Cameron [mailto:cowcam@pipcom.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002 9:58 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Prosealed seams

As for the Proseal, I think this is just Brian G's sealer of

choice. Back

when I discussed the necessity of the Rebel tail post SB with him

he told me

that he liked to put the tail section of the Rebel together with

proseal as

well. It will definitely seal out water as well if not better than

the EP420

(or your corrosion proofer of choice) and of course it does a

better job of

"gluing" everything together to stop things (like rivets) from

"working".

WAYNE
RUMMER has it that when the BD5 fuselage was being developed it was

put together with Proseal, then the rivets where drilled out, the fuselage
was put on a paint shaker for so long and the seams held tight.

Phil&Lisa Smith

Would using it mean that doing a repair would cause damage in

getting things apart?

Peter

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=text/html;charset=iso-8859-1

http-equiv=Content-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">

<META content='"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=GENERATOR>
<STYLE>

</STYLE>

</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=white lang=EN-US link=blue vLink=purple>
<DIV>Thanks for your experiences.
I've often thought it is tempting to put something like proseal or 3M 5000 (or
similer products) in float seams but the thought of doing a repair scares
me.</DIV>
<DIV>Peter.</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
<DIV>  </DIV>
<DIV class=Section1>
<SPAN
style="COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE:

10pt">Peter,

<SPAN
style="COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE:

10pt">

I had to pull

some

doublers off of the rear spar to accommodate new doublers for the 3500
upgrade on an SR.   The spars were OK when I finished, but

the old

doublers were trashed.   I don't believe I could have
"saved" the parts even if I had tried.
<SPAN
style="COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE:

10pt">

Conversely, I
rather stupidly installed the fuel tank access doublers on the bottom tank
skin before installing the tank skin on the wing.  I quickly

discovered

that my arms are not sufficiently articulated to allow for remedial

ProSeal

work through those doublers.  Pulling the ProSeal'd doublers was a
chore but was accomplished without the destruction of any parts.

<SPAN
style="COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE:

10pt">

I think it rather
depends on the application, thin sheet and/or curves raise the risk factor
considerably.
<SPAN
style="COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE:

10pt">

<SPAN
style="COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE:

10pt">Cheers,          &nb
sp; 

rj
<SPAN
style="COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE:

10pt">

R J
Thomas
<SPAN
style="COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE:

10pt">Lafayette<FONT

color=navy face=Arial size=2><SPAN
style="COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE:

10pt">,    

<SPAN
style="COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE:

10pt">LA

Super Rebel
3500  N140SR
<SPAN
style="COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE:

10pt">+++++++++++++++++++++++++

<SPAN
style="COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE:

10pt">

<FONT face=Tahoma

size=2><SPAN

style="FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">-----Original
Message----- From: Peter
Cowan/Lexi Cameron [mailto:cowcam@pipcom.com] Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002 9:58
AM To:
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com Subject: Re: Prosealed
seams
 
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; BORDER-LEFT: black solid 1.5pt;

BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; BORDER-TOP: medium none; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 5pt;
MARGIN-LEFT: 3.75pt; MARGIN-TOP: 5pt; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-LEFT:
4pt; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; PADDING-TOP: 0in">

<SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE:

10pt">

As for
the  Proseal, I think this is just Brian G's sealer of choice.
Back when I discussed the necessity of the Rebel tail post SB with
him he told me that he liked to put the tail section of the Rebel
together with proseal as well. It will definitely seal out water as
well if not better than the EP420 (or your corrosion proofer of
choice) and of course it does a better job of "gluing"
everything together to stop things (like rivets) from
"working".
 WAYNE RUMMER

has

it that when the BD5 fuselage was being developed it was put together
with Proseal, then the rivets where drilled out, the fuselage was

put on

a paint shaker for so long and the seams held tight. Phil&Lisa
Smith
</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; BORDER-LEFT: black solid 1.5pt;

BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; BORDER-TOP: medium none; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 5pt;
MARGIN-LEFT: 3.75pt; MARGIN-TOP: 5pt; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-LEFT:
4pt; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; PADDING-TOP: 0in">

Would

using it

mean that doing a repair would cause damage in getting things
apart?</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; BORDER-LEFT: black solid 1.5pt;

BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; BORDER-TOP: medium none; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 5pt;
MARGIN-LEFT: 3.75pt; MARGIN-TOP: 5pt; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-LEFT:
4pt; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; PADDING-TOP: 0in">

<SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE:

12pt">Peter</BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Peter Cowan/Lexi Cameron · Post by **Peter Cowan/Lexi Cameron** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:59 pm

Bob two questions:
What is "SOP"?
Is Proseal equivalent to sikoflex in sticking capability?
The zinc chromate tape that used to be used in float seams sealed but didn't
bond so that dissasssembly wasn't a big problem.
Peter

Hi Peter !

Using ProSeal or SikaFlex in the seams on floats is S.O.P. -
it's part of the Murphy float instructions. You really have to
use something like that to stop leaks ....

....bobp

----------------------------------orig.-------------------------------
At 11:40 AM 3/14/02 -0500, you wrote:
Thanks for your experiences. I've often thought it is tempting to put
something like proseal or 3M 5000 (or similer products) in float seams but
the thought of doing a repair scares me.
Peter.

Peter,

I had to pull some doublers off of the rear spar to accommodate new
doublers for the 3500 upgrade on an SR. The spars were OK when I

finished,

but the old doublers were trashed. I don't believe I could have "saved"
the parts even if I had tried.

Conversely, I rather stupidly installed the fuel tank access doublers
on the bottom tank skin before installing the tank skin on the wing. I
quickly discovered that my arms are not sufficiently articulated to allow
for remedial ProSeal work through those doublers. Pulling the ProSeal'd
doublers was a chore but was accomplished without the destruction of any

parts.

I think it rather depends on the application, thin sheet and/or curves
raise the risk factor considerably.

Cheers, rj

R J Thomas

Lafayette, LA

Super Rebel 3500 N140SR

+++++++++++++++++++++++++

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Cowan/Lexi Cameron [mailto:cowcam@pipcom.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002 9:58 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Prosealed seams

As for the Proseal, I think this is just Brian G's sealer of
choice. Back
when I discussed the necessity of the Rebel tail post SB with him
he told me
that he liked to put the tail section of the Rebel together with
proseal as
well. It will definitely seal out water as well if not better than
the EP420
(or your corrosion proofer of choice) and of course it does a
better job of
"gluing" everything together to stop things (like rivets) from
"working".

WAYNE
RUMMER has it that when the BD5 fuselage was being developed it

was

put together with Proseal, then the rivets where drilled out, the fuselage
was put on a paint shaker for so long and the seams held tight.
Phil&Lisa Smith

Would using it mean that doing a repair would cause damage in
getting things apart?
Peter

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=text/html;charset=iso-8859-1
http-equiv=Content-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<META content='"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=GENERATOR>
<STYLE>

</STYLE>

</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=white lang=EN-US link=blue vLink=purple>
<DIV>Thanks for your

experiences.

I've often thought it is tempting to put something like proseal or 3M 5000

(or

similer products) in float seams but the thought of doing a repair scares
me.</DIV>
<DIV>Peter.</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT:

5px">

<DIV>  </DIV>
<DIV class=Section1>
Peter,
 
I had to pull
some
doublers off of the rear spar to accommodate new doublers for the 3500
upgrade on an SR.   The spars were OK when I finished, but
the old
doublers were trashed.   I don't believe I could have
"saved" the parts even if I had tried.
 
Conversely, I
rather stupidly installed the fuel tank access doublers on the bottom

tank

skin before installing the tank skin on the wing.  I quickly
discovered
that my arms are not sufficiently articulated to allow for remedial
ProSeal
work through those doublers.  Pulling the ProSeal'd doublers was

a

chore but was accomplished without the destruction of any parts.

 
I think it

rather

depends on the application, thin sheet and/or curves raise the risk

factor

considerably.
 
Cheers,          &n

b

sp; 
rj
 
R J
Thomas
Lafayette,    
LA
Super Rebel
3500  N140SR
+++++++++++++++++++++++++
 
-----Original
Message----- From:

Peter

Cowan/Lexi Cameron [mailto:cowcam@pipcom.com] Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002

9:58

AM To:
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com Subject: Re: Prosealed
seams
<FONT face="Times New

Roman"

size=3> 
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; BORDER-LEFT: black solid 1.5pt;
BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; BORDER-TOP: medium none; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 5pt;
MARGIN-LEFT: 3.75pt; MARGIN-TOP: 5pt; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-LEFT:
4pt; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; PADDING-TOP: 0in">
 
As for
the  Proseal, I think this is just Brian G's sealer of

choice.

Back when I discussed the necessity of the Rebel tail post SB

with

him he told me that he liked to put the tail section of the

Rebel

together with proseal as well. It will definitely seal out

water as

well if not better than the EP420 (or your corrosion proofer of
choice) and of course it does a better job

of "gluing"

everything together to stop things (like rivets) from
"working".
<SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE:

10pt"> WAYNE RUMMER

has
it that when the BD5 fuselage was being developed it was put

together

with Proseal, then the rivets where drilled out, the fuselage was
put on
a paint shaker for so long and the seams held

tight. Phil&Lisa

Smith<SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY:

Arial">

</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; BORDER-LEFT: black solid 1.5pt;
BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; BORDER-TOP: medium none; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 5pt;
MARGIN-LEFT: 3.75pt; MARGIN-TOP: 5pt; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-LEFT:
4pt; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; PADDING-TOP: 0in">
Would
using it
mean that doing a repair would cause damage in getting things
apart?</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; BORDER-LEFT: black solid 1.5pt;
BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; BORDER-TOP: medium none; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 5pt;
MARGIN-LEFT: 3.75pt; MARGIN-TOP: 5pt; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-LEFT:
4pt; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; PADDING-TOP: 0in">
Peter</BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Bob Patterson · Post by **Bob Patterson** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:59 pm

Standard Operating Procedure .....

SikaFlex is pretty much equivalent to ProSeal EXCEPT:
- SikaFlex comes in setting times from 2 hr., 4 hr., 8 hr., 12 hr., and 24 hr.
(makes it a lot more flexible for working time ..)

- SikaFlex is NOT fuelproof ! Good for floats, but not gas tanks !

The EPA have pretty much made zinc chromate disappear - at least
in North America ..

...bobp

------------------------------------orig.--------------------------------
At 08:07 AM 3/15/02 -0500, you wrote:

Bob two questions:
What is "SOP"?
Is Proseal equivalent to sikoflex in sticking capability?
The zinc chromate tape that used to be used in float seams sealed but didn't
bond so that dissasssembly wasn't a big problem.
Peter

Hi Peter !

Using ProSeal or SikaFlex in the seams on floats is S.O.P. -
it's part of the Murphy float instructions. You really have to
use something like that to stop leaks ....

....bobp

----------------------------------orig.-------------------------------
At 11:40 AM 3/14/02 -0500, you wrote:
Thanks for your experiences. I've often thought it is tempting to put
something like proseal or 3M 5000 (or similer products) in float seams but
the thought of doing a repair scares me.
Peter.

Peter,

I had to pull some doublers off of the rear spar to accommodate new
doublers for the 3500 upgrade on an SR. The spars were OK when I
finished,
but the old doublers were trashed. I don't believe I could have "saved"
the parts even if I had tried.

Conversely, I rather stupidly installed the fuel tank access doublers
on the bottom tank skin before installing the tank skin on the wing. I
quickly discovered that my arms are not sufficiently articulated to allow
for remedial ProSeal work through those doublers. Pulling the ProSeal'd
doublers was a chore but was accomplished without the destruction of any
parts.

I think it rather depends on the application, thin sheet and/or curves
raise the risk factor considerably.

Cheers, rj

R J Thomas

Lafayette, LA

Super Rebel 3500 N140SR

+++++++++++++++++++++++++

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Cowan/Lexi Cameron [mailto:cowcam@pipcom.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002 9:58 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Prosealed seams

As for the Proseal, I think this is just Brian G's sealer of
choice. Back
when I discussed the necessity of the Rebel tail post SB with him
he told me
that he liked to put the tail section of the Rebel together with
proseal as
well. It will definitely seal out water as well if not better than
the EP420
(or your corrosion proofer of choice) and of course it does a
better job of
"gluing" everything together to stop things (like rivets) from
"working".

WAYNE
RUMMER has it that when the BD5 fuselage was being developed it
was
put together with Proseal, then the rivets where drilled out, the fuselage
was put on a paint shaker for so long and the seams held tight.
Phil&Lisa Smith

Would using it mean that doing a repair would cause damage in
getting things apart?
Peter

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=text/html;charset=iso-8859-1
http-equiv=Content-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<META content='"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=GENERATOR>
<STYLE>

</STYLE>

</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=white lang=EN-US link=blue vLink=purple>
<DIV>Thanks for your
experiences.
I've often thought it is tempting to put something like proseal or 3M 5000
(or
similer products) in float seams but the thought of doing a repair scares
me.</DIV>
<DIV>Peter.</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT:
5px">
<DIV>  </DIV>
<DIV class=Section1>
Peter,
 
I had to pull
some
doublers off of the rear spar to accommodate new doublers for the 3500
upgrade on an SR.   The spars were OK when I finished, but
the old
doublers were trashed.   I don't believe I could have
"saved" the parts even if I had tried.
 
Conversely, I
rather stupidly installed the fuel tank access doublers on the bottom
tank
skin before installing the tank skin on the wing.  I quickly
discovered
that my arms are not sufficiently articulated to allow for remedial
ProSeal
work through those doublers.  Pulling the ProSeal'd doublers was
a
chore but was accomplished without the destruction of any parts.

 
I think it
rather
depends on the application, thin sheet and/or curves raise the risk
factor
considerably.
 
Cheers,          &n
b
sp; 
rj
 
R J
Thomas
Lafayette,    
LA
Super Rebel
3500  N140SR
+++++++++++++++++++++++++
 
-----Original
Message----- From:
Peter
Cowan/Lexi Cameron [mailto:cowcam@pipcom.com] Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002
9:58
AM To:
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com Subject: Re: Prosealed
seams
 
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; BORDER-LEFT: black solid 1.5pt;
BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; BORDER-TOP: medium none; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 5pt;
MARGIN-LEFT: 3.75pt; MARGIN-TOP: 5pt; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-LEFT:
4pt; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; PADDING-TOP: 0in">
 
As for
the  Proseal, I think this is just Brian G's sealer of
choice.
Back when I discussed the necessity of the Rebel tail post SB
with
him he told me that he liked to put the tail section of the
Rebel
together with proseal as well. It will definitely seal out
water as
well if not better than the EP420 (or your corrosion proofer of
choice) and of course it does a better job
of "gluing"
everything together to stop things (like rivets) from
"working".
 WAYNE RUMMER
has
it that when the BD5 fuselage was being developed it was put
together
with Proseal, then the rivets where drilled out, the fuselage was
put on
a paint shaker for so long and the seams held
tight. Phil&Lisa
Smith
</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; BORDER-LEFT: black solid 1.5pt;
BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; BORDER-TOP: medium none; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 5pt;
MARGIN-LEFT: 3.75pt; MARGIN-TOP: 5pt; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-LEFT:
4pt; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; PADDING-TOP: 0in">
Would
using it
mean that doing a repair would cause damage in getting things
apart?</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; BORDER-LEFT: black solid 1.5pt;
BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; BORDER-TOP: medium none; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 5pt;
MARGIN-LEFT: 3.75pt; MARGIN-TOP: 5pt; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-LEFT:
4pt; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; PADDING-TOP: 0in">
Peter</BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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klehman · Post by **klehman** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:59 pm

FWIW the MSDS sheet says the Sikoflex 1A is a moderate health hazard,
contains xylene and benzene, and prolonged and/or repeated contact with
skin may cause an allergic reaction/sensitization. Don't have a clue how
significant this is but the sensitization thing caught my eye on a one
part curing polyurethane.

I didn't think that pro-seal was all that bad other than containing
toluene and requiring ventilation and gloves, but darned if I can locate
an MSDS sheet for comparison.

http://www.sikacanada.com/eng/constr/cat/js/d100.htm also hints that a
primer might be beneficial for items that are going to be immersed in
water??

Ken

Bob Patterson wrote:

Standard Operating Procedure .....

SikaFlex is pretty much equivalent to ProSeal EXCEPT:
- SikaFlex comes in setting times from 2 hr., 4 hr., 8 hr., 12 hr., and

24 hr.

(makes it a lot more flexible for working time ..)

- SikaFlex is NOT fuelproof ! Good for floats, but not gas tanks !

The EPA have pretty much made zinc chromate disappear - at least
in North America ..

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