The Murphy Builders Site

Hi Wayne,

Good luck with your off loading Chinese Fire Drill. We where fortunate that
Aerocet did a great job of crating. 40"X40"x22' , built very well and VERY
HEAVY.

You mentioned the close of your tail feathers. MAM recommends installing the
external doublers using proseal. When we contacted the manufacturer, to
order, they indicated that proseal for fuel was not there best product to
prevent corrosion between layers. We used the "corrosion proseal" (product
number in the shop I can forward it if you want) It was brushable and
similar to the fuel brushable proseal. We used in between all the large
doublers and skin in the upgrade. We also used it for skin structure laps in
the tail feathers. (built from kit).

I felt the same way about the K2000's that's why I asked.

The anchor nuts ... you mention 1/4 x 28. Our Horizontal bracket bolts are
3/16. ??????

You know Wayne, it wasn't so much the $24, a drop in the OCEAN as they say
when it comes to the cost of this project. I think it was the idea of
spending $3 on a 3/16 nut.

Anyway, I'd rather give you the $16 bucks + postage than the Big ACS.

BUT, do you think it is necessary to go 1/4" bolts when MAM supplied 3/16.
(more bolts to order)

Will wait for your response before making a decision on bolt size.

On another matter.
To prevent hinge bolts from spinning in the event we needed to re-torque at
a future time or replace the various control hinges we used bolts with
drilled heads on the inside of the structure and used stiff wire to pin the
two heads together to prevent head rotation. Worked fine.

Question, do you know if the drilled head bolts have the same strength in
tension as undrilled.?

Regards,
Don Boardman
& Partner
Randy Bowers
SR3500#130 "The Muskie" M-14PF Aerocet 3400 amphibs, Rome, NY







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Don and all SR'ers.

I almost bolted the stab attach brackets into the tail cone with 3/16 bolts,
on initial assembly, and then realized that the slots in the rear set are
1/4" wide. Somewhere in the manual it tells you to use 1/4" bolts and I
<think> I read somewhere that you had to drill them to 1/4" to put those
1/4" bolts in!!

As for the Proseal, I think this is just Brian G's sealer of choice. Back
when I discussed the necessity of the Rebel tail post SB with him he told me
that he liked to put the tail section of the Rebel together with proseal as
well. It will definitely seal out water as well if not better than the EP420
(or your corrosion proofer of choice) and of course it does a better job of
"gluing" everything together to stop things (like rivets) from "working".
I'll make up my mind, on what to use, the morning I finally get to it!

Now you post a great idea like that! Will be great if you ever have to
change the hinges from wear. It will happen with the bolt just riding on
aluminium. The big thing is to make sure when you put the bolts in that they
are tight so they don't rotate in the rudder/elevator hinges. This will
leave only the fin/stab hinges to wear which are easy to get at and hone and
insert bushings into when the time comes (or I might just do that now!).
That way you may never need to take the hinges off, but I like your wire
idea. Haven't closed the stab so not too late for me there. Will have to
have a look and see what I have for bolts, or start drilling some. The fin
is too late and I'm not going to open it back up.

The drilled head bolts should have the same tension strength as the others.
Just think prop bolts have a hole through the head and heck a "real" prop
bollt AN73 has 3 holes drilled through the head!!!

If you want some anchors contact me off line!

Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Boardman" <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 9:58 PM
Subject: Anchor Nut & Another Option

Hi Wayne,

Good luck with your off loading Chinese Fire Drill. We where fortunate

that

Aerocet did a great job of crating. 40"X40"x22' , built very well and VERY
HEAVY.

You mentioned the close of your tail feathers. MAM recommends installing

the

external doublers using proseal. When we contacted the manufacturer, to
order, they indicated that proseal for fuel was not there best product to
prevent corrosion between layers. We used the "corrosion proseal" (product
number in the shop I can forward it if you want) It was brushable and
similar to the fuel brushable proseal. We used in between all the large
doublers and skin in the upgrade. We also used it for skin structure laps

in

the tail feathers. (built from kit).

I felt the same way about the K2000's that's why I asked.

The anchor nuts ... you mention 1/4 x 28. Our Horizontal bracket bolts are
3/16. ??????

You know Wayne, it wasn't so much the $24, a drop in the OCEAN as they say
when it comes to the cost of this project. I think it was the idea of
spending $3 on a 3/16 nut.

Anyway, I'd rather give you the $16 bucks + postage than the Big ACS.

BUT, do you think it is necessary to go 1/4" bolts when MAM supplied 3/16.
(more bolts to order)

Will wait for your response before making a decision on bolt size.

On another matter.
To prevent hinge bolts from spinning in the event we needed to re-torque

at

a future time or replace the various control hinges we used bolts with
drilled heads on the inside of the structure and used stiff wire to pin

the

two heads together to prevent head rotation. Worked fine.

Question, do you know if the drilled head bolts have the same strength in
tension as undrilled.?

Regards,
Don Boardman
& Partner
Randy Bowers
SR3500#130 "The Muskie" M-14PF Aerocet 3400 amphibs, Rome, NY





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In a message dated 3/13/02 10:26:38 PM Central Standard Time, oifa@irishfield.on.ca writes:

As for the Proseal, I think this is just Brian G's sealer of choice. Back
when I discussed the necessity of the Rebel tail post SB with him he told me
that he liked to put the tail section of the Rebel together with proseal as
well. It will definitely seal out water as well if not better than the EP420
(or your corrosion proofer of choice) and of course it does a better job of
"gluing" everything together to stop things (like rivets) from "working".

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