Fuselage corner wrap fitting and Rebel float bulkhead fittin
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:59 pm
Terry, as for #1 you will be just fine! Just back drill with someone holding
the wraps tight in place or tape down with tin tape prior to getting in to
back drill. Won't be a problem and if you do screw up a hole or two just
drill it up to 5/32 and get some RV15** rivets from MAM later. DO NOT USE a
strap duplicator, especially when going around a corner, as the duplicator
will hold the corner wrap up off the other wrap by about 3/16", therefore
holding it at a different radius than if it sits flat against the other
corner wrap. The holes will not line up when you are done.
The above also brings up an important item when doing the tail area. If you
plan to slip the FUS-30 and the FUS-29's under the corner wraps for a
cleaner, all seams overlapping in the same direction construction, make sure
you slip a piece of scrap .032 (in the case of Fus-30) or .020 (in the case
of the Fus-29) between the bulkhead and the corner wrap before you drill to
hold the radius in the right place. If you hold it tight and then slip the
other skin in between later the holes will not line up. Just like running
two model railway tracks side by side around the corner! They have to be
different radii.
As for #2: Without finding a manual (and it probably wouldn't match 9 years
later anyhow!) I presume you are talking about the float point bulkheads!?
If so, I just leave them full length and tip them against the existing
bulkhead and drill a pattern of holes to tie in at the top. Then when you do
the .032 cover strap just trim it to fit the slight taper in the pair of
bulkheads. You can also do as you say and space with a 1/4" "shim". The
choice is yours!
As for #3, don't know what this is referring too!
Keep going, you getting there!!
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Dazey" <dazey@earthlink.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 6:08 PM
Subject: Rebel Building Question . . .
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the wraps tight in place or tape down with tin tape prior to getting in to
back drill. Won't be a problem and if you do screw up a hole or two just
drill it up to 5/32 and get some RV15** rivets from MAM later. DO NOT USE a
strap duplicator, especially when going around a corner, as the duplicator
will hold the corner wrap up off the other wrap by about 3/16", therefore
holding it at a different radius than if it sits flat against the other
corner wrap. The holes will not line up when you are done.
The above also brings up an important item when doing the tail area. If you
plan to slip the FUS-30 and the FUS-29's under the corner wraps for a
cleaner, all seams overlapping in the same direction construction, make sure
you slip a piece of scrap .032 (in the case of Fus-30) or .020 (in the case
of the Fus-29) between the bulkhead and the corner wrap before you drill to
hold the radius in the right place. If you hold it tight and then slip the
other skin in between later the holes will not line up. Just like running
two model railway tracks side by side around the corner! They have to be
different radii.
As for #2: Without finding a manual (and it probably wouldn't match 9 years
later anyhow!) I presume you are talking about the float point bulkheads!?
If so, I just leave them full length and tip them against the existing
bulkhead and drill a pattern of holes to tie in at the top. Then when you do
the .032 cover strap just trim it to fit the slight taper in the pair of
bulkheads. You can also do as you say and space with a 1/4" "shim". The
choice is yours!
As for #3, don't know what this is referring too!
Keep going, you getting there!!
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Dazey" <dazey@earthlink.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 6:08 PM
Subject: Rebel Building Question . . .
**Hello All:
I have a couple of Rebel building questions for you.
1. I am preparing to rivet on the top tailcone (corner) wraps as
mentioned in the manual. I have drilled out the ALL of the holes in the
top corner wraps to 1/8 (including the ends of the wraps at bulkhead "B"
and "E"). I know that there will be some further drilling of skins that
overlap at those locations, but at the time, my thought was that since
the corner wraps were riveted, and I were to have left them #40 I would
have not been able to get at the holes at "A" and "E" to debur them
once the overlapping (top/final) skins were drilled to #30. I am a
little nervous that when I go to back drill through the existing 1/8
holes (through the flanges, corner wrap skin and new skin), I might
enlarge the existing #30 holes more than necessary. Is this the correct
way to do this procedure? Now that the holes are drilled, is it best to
use a strap duplicator in a situation like this ? OR did I screw up and
will just have to be very careful drilling of the #30 holes? Sounds like
a Catch 22 to me. (I hope this is a clear explanation on this one).
2. In Figure 12.27.5 Number 17 Rebel Manual. Do I drill out the existing
9 rivets at the side overlaps at Bulkhead "A" and lay in the "new"
bulkhead doubler (the one that butts against "A" that faces aft) and
back drill through those 1/8 holes then rivet through both? That would
make the gap between the 2 bulkheads go from 1/4 inch at the bottom to
zero at the top (sides)? OR make a 1/4 inch spacer and rivet at the top
(sides) so the bulkheads are parallel all the way.
3. What does it mean at Figure 12.27.5 "bend the new bulkhead over to
accomplish this"?
Thanks in advance for the comments and suggestions.
Terry Dazey
Rebel 662
Good Luck . . .
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