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From: "Alister Yeoman" <
yeoman@voyager.co.nz>
To: "Murphy Rebel" <
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: More FloatFix etc...
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 22:40:35 +1300
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Hi again Dave,
No, I only used etch primer on the surfaces and dipped the rivets in that,
It's fine elsewhere, this bottom area by the spring gear is a very busy
area!
I am getting to have some opinions as I work my way through the few
problems in this area.
I do believe that this spring gear is very rigid, probably too much so. I
think it is very important to keep keep the tyre pressures down as they are
the first part of the suspension. 12 lbs appears to be the ball park
figure, I did run 18 lb on 8.00 * 6 tyres and dropping the pressure down
made a big difference to the loads that are transferred to the fuse.
There is a lot of movement in the door frame area, if you place your hand
on top of the 'dash' ( just forward of the instrument panel ) towards the
outside as you are taxiing over rough ground you can feel the skin moving
up and down as the loads are transferred from the spring gear to the lower
carry through tubes then on to the the door posts, this is not necessarily
a bad thing but you need to be aware of it. A Cessna 180 flexes and creaks
and groans if you rock it from side to side and work the gear.
If you rock my Rebel from side to side and place your hand on the FUS 11
just in front of the door post you can feel it flexing or as we call it
'panting' ( just like a dog panting in and out for breath!!) This is
obviously causing some shear tendancy on the rivets in the lower doorpost
area, hence the 'smoking rivets.
I dont believe that the bend immediately in front of the door post on the
FUS 11 has helped the situation either. Thats why at this stage I think the
idea of the right angle bracket onto the FUS 11 from the doorpost is
probably the most practical method of fixing this problem. It will add some
stiffening to the FUS 11 in this area and also add another couple of rows
of rivets to distribute the shear loads.
On inspection I have found that the FUS 26 has some distortion in it
already on both sides, also there is evidence of a black edge where the FUS
26 meets the FUS 35 (I dont have my manual here, I think that is the small
aluminium right angle below the FUS 26??), which is a sign that all is not
well, although the rivets are OK.
Bob has already suggested that other people have experienced problems in
this area and goes on to say possible fixes are to replace with heavier
metal or add vertical braces or both.
I am removing my wings in the next few days and will replace The FUS 26
with 32 thou. I also dont like the one row of rivets on the FUS 35? this I
think is poor form!
I intend to replace this with a wider version and two rows of rivets.
I am not too upset with all this carry on, I think this is all part of the
'shake down' period. The move away from bungee type gear was a big move,
remember bungee gear dissipates mosts of its loads within itself, where as
this type of setup transfers the loads to the fuse. Was it originally
designed for it? probably not.
I do hope that Murphy takes all this stuff on board and take steps to
alleviate the problems further down the track.
And I guess you have to remember that I am probably doing more landings off
airport than on.
Those heavier lower corner wraps of yours should help.
I wont have any more flying dialog going for a while as I am out of the
air, but I have been playing around with the slow flight qualities of the
Rebel over the last few days, I am finding it very predicable just above
the stall with the flaperons full on, I can fly down the runway a few feet
off the ground at about 30kts indicated, turn and fly down the taxi way and
land in a few metres just outside the hangar! That saves the
undercarriage!! Hope the CAA wasn't watching!
Sorry to be so long winded.
Cheers
Alister
----------
From: Dave Klimas <
drk@cts.com>
To: Murphy Rebel <
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: More FloatFix etc...
Date: Tuesday, November 10, 1998 4:09 PM
Hi Alister,
Thanks for the feedback.
I'm curious, did you chromate the mating surfaces and dip the rivets in
chromate just prior to setting them?
I am installing the spring gear. On FUS-26, are you experiencing problems
in that area or just beefing it up to be sure?
I have also installed my original 0.025 lower corner wraps as upper
corner
wraps.
Keep the flying dialog flowing... it is a great booster for us folks
still
in the garage.
Hi Dave,
I really like your method of adding the right angle corner brackets to
help
distribute the loads, that is the method I am using to 'fix' my lower
fuse
problems.
If you are going to use spring gear you might want to consider extending
the lower bracket up ( a separate bracket) to encapture FUS 11 from its
strenghtening bend at the bottom to the witches hat at the top,then
right
angle on to the door post, this is the area that is causing the most
concern not the area below on the corner wrap.
Also consider making Fus 26 out of 32Thou. I believe it is a little
under
done.I am removing mine and replacing with that.
Cheers
Alister
Dave & Bert Klimas
Rebel #472
Ramona, CA
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