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Bungee gear --> spring gear

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 4:51 pm
by Mike Davis
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To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel)
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: Re: Bungee gear --> spring gear
Message-Id: <E0zbHHP-0006gh-00@mail2.toronto.istar.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 23:44:20 -0500


Thanks for the explanation of 'panting' - bulges like pants
that are too long !! :-)

Several builders have seen this effect in the area you mention,
also in the panel right under the doors. One fix has been to re-make
that panel in .032 - if you haven't already rivetted it on. They have
also stiffened that panel by adding short vertical L or C channels
bent up & rivetted inside between the bottom & the door frame.
I have also seen pieces of wing stringer used as stiffeners -
this is a great idea - they're light & strong & small enough to slip
in almost anywhere. A piece of stringer on an angle, perhaps almost
parallel with the witches hat in that side panel might solve your
problem. (or an extra piece of witches hat ...)

The corner wraps were thickened up because they were TOO
sensitive to denting - I was one of the first victims ! The original
owner of our third Rebel had removed the wings in a hurry (don't ask !!),
and left his son holding the wing tip while he removed the BOTTOM (!)
strut bolt. When the wing tip dropped, he grabbed the strut & lifted
it so it dented the corner wrap.
This was a minor blemish (i thought) - after a hundred or so
hours of flying, it was apparent that the 'dent' was flexing - it
eventually opened up into a 2" crack !! At this point, the corner
wraps were replaced with the heavier .025 versions. Since then,
the factory decided that, since they were using .032 for the heavier
Elite, thay would make THAT (.032) the standard - not a bad idea !!

This sort of thing applies to ALL aircraft that use a stessed-
skin (semi-monocoque) construction, and all corner wraps on the Rebel,
including the rear fuse. If anyone out there has a dent in the wraps,
the wrap MUST be replaced to maintain strength & durability !!

If the smoking rivets are on the doorpost, there is a "newer"
addition to the 'float fix' AD (since Oshkosh 1998). It calls for
an extra row of larger rivets, staggered between the existing rivets,
all the way up the doorpost. Please check with MAM for the exact
details. Anyone out there looking at heavy float usage would be well
advised to do this while building..
This was the result of 'field experience' - someone decided
to fly in waves that were MUCH larger than MAM originally intended
(nobody else ventured out of the seaplane base !) I agree that these
things sound dramatic, but again - NO ONE was hurt, and the Rebel flew
away the next day. Not a big problem, just one more minor improvement.
There are always several aircraft damaged at Oshkosh
- there WERE over 14,000 aircraft there !!, and not <all> the landings
were perfect !! :-) or :-(

I'm sure your gear bolts were not loose because of hard landings,
which would have stretched them. There are many areas where the bolts
do slacken slightly after a bit of flying.

We were flying to Florida with No. 001, in March, a long time
ago ( ~ 1991) when we found the horizontal stab quite loose on a
preflight in Ohio. The bolts fastening it at the root had slackened -
after about 60 or 80 hr. of flying !! Now I always double check them
on my walkaround - along with many other spots .... part of my
'ongoing maintenance program'. :-)

Here we have an initial 25 HR. test flying period with various
restrictions - once completed, you can fly anywhere & carry passengers.
The end of this period is an EXCELLENT time to go over the whole
aircraft, checking & lubricating everywhere. You might be surprised
- i saw one Rebel that had ONE rivet missing on top of the wing -
it was never installed !!

I love your descriptions of flying & hunting there !!! God,
I WISH I could fly along on one of those - it sounds BEAUTIFUL !!
Sigh !! Maybe we'll come up on the lottery one day & come to visit !!!

Glad you're enjoying the Rebel as much as the rest of us :-)

....bobp

-------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 09:42 PM 11/4/98 +1300, you wrote:
Hi again,

Thanks for the info, I was speaking to Grant from Murphy today and he
backed up what you say, he said Darral reckons to run about 12lbs in the
tyres.

I'd come to that conclusion in the last few days and have tried it, it
certainly softens the ride and appears to take some of the loads away from
the fuse.

Panting of the skins is a term used over here to indicate flexing of the
skins in certain situations.

I do have the latter kit with the stronger floor area, the problem is not
in the twisting forces with braking etc. but with the dissipation of the
loads through the fuse resulting from the flexing of the spring gear ( ie
weight bearing loads)

The panting I am getting is just ahead of the front door post,down low just
above where the corner rap meets the side panel, it occurs when the
undercarriage is working. It is causing the 'smoking' of the rivets down
low on the front door post.

It is of some concern, and obviously a fix is required, stronger rivets in
the area concerned would probably do the job, but I do wonder if a doubler
over the area that is 'panting' may be the best long term option,
especially with all the off airfield work that I do.

Murphy have been beating around the bush in regard to a fix for the
problem, but they have said that the front corner raps have been increased
in thickness to 35thou. ( I wonder why!)

Yes, the aircraft has only done 35hrs to date, but I am using the way it
should be used!! It has to hold up thats why I built it!!

And yes, I had to re-torque the under carriage bolts fairly early on, as
they had loosened.

Also remember that if you are fitting an 0-320, or a heavier motor, to do
the floatfix bulletin promulgated by Murphy, I found out the hard way, all
the taxiing over rough ground caused the top of the firewall to flex
creating some cracking of the firewall around the top mounts on either
side, this happened within 20hrs!!!

This all sounds very dramatic, but it isn't really, I just look at these
problems as just part of the shake down period, we'll sort this out and be
off like a rocket!

It is the neatest aircraft to fly, and you can go to the greatest places.
The other day my son and I tossed some camping gear and a rifle in the back
and headed off for the mountains, an hour and twenty later we dropped into
the headwaters of the Wilkins river on to an old deer hunters strip (Alt.
2000ft, 280 metres long and two metres wide!). We were surrounded by 8000ft
peaks.

We had an evening hunt in the most beautiful country possible, slept under
the aircraft, up early and away for another hunt then back for a late
breakfast. Toss the gear in the plane and off home, all in under 24 hrs!
What a way to travel!!

The only problems I am getting with the aircraft is associated with the
rough and undulating terrain that I am operating off, in the air the
aircraft has been faultless, I have full confidence that these issues will
be worked through reasonably quickly.

Cheers

Alister Yeoman




----------
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: Murphy Rebel <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Bungee gear
Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 5:05 PM


I run the fat tires - 8.00 x 600. They aren't very heavy-duty, but
they ARE inexpensive !! :-)

Normal pressure is around 20 lb - but i have run them as low
as 10 lb. The only danger if they're too soft is that they TURN on the
wheel, and pull the valve stem out of the tube !! :-(

Very fancy method - add air, then put a foot on the tire & push
on top - look for a little flattening (1/2" bulge ??) at bottom, and a
little side to side wiggle. Seems to give nice landings that way ....

It's unusual to see problems with the spring with such low time
- how many hours on the Rebel ?? What's 'panting' of skins ????

You might want to re-torque the bolts that hold the spring
gear on - I've heard of several that loosened up in the first 50 hours -
and there were one or 2 that had sheared bolts.

Were the rivets that are smoking dipped in epoxy when installed
??
You <could> paint some epoxy on inside & out now ... might help.

I hate to say this, but "the EARLY" spring gear kits were a
little
weak in the floor area. Newer ones have several doublers with 'fingers'
that are supposed to spread the loads much better, preventing the waves
in the floor. It might be possible to add doublers inside or out, even
now. It would depend where the problem is. I'm sure the factory could
help, if you sent photos of the problem spots ... (Hope you can get
someone to scan photos of your Rebel for us - we're all curious !)

.....bobp

Apologies to those who've heard "the Early" too often !!

----------------------------orig.-----------------------------------------
At 07:16 PM 11/3/98 +1300, you wrote:
Hi Bob,

You state that the tyres are the primary shock absorbers, I am having
some
trouble with my spring gear in that the loads are transferring to the
fuse
and causing some panting of the skins and minor smoking of some rivets.

What tyre pressures are you running?

Cheers,

Alister Yeoman yeoman@voyager.co.nz

----------
was
idea.
bungee
spindle
tension.
bungee
in
re-reading
that
Please
??
will
the
bolts
new
way risk of directions or
for
the
to
you




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Bungee gear --> spring gear

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 4:51 pm
by Mike Davis
Received: from [137.186.227.157] (helo=ms02-157.tor.istar.ca)
by mail2.toronto.istar.net with smtp (Exim 1.92 #2)
for murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
id 0zbHHf-0006gh-00; Wed, 4 Nov 1998 23:44:35 -0500
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To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel)
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: Re: Bungee gear --> spring gear
Message-Id: <E0zbHHf-0006gh-00@mail2.toronto.istar.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 23:44:35 -0500

Sorry Dave,

I sometimes lose track of where I was - old age. :-)
I think almost all the bolts that use elastic stop nuts tend to loosen a
bit with heat, load, vibration, in the first few hours. I have seen this
even after 60 - 80 hr. !

You are correct - if you have to re-torque AGAIN, it might mean
the bolts have stretched from a hard landing. If they loosen after the
initial re-tightening, it would be a good idea to pull one or 2 & check
the length & shape (no 'waisting') - any problems means replace them ALL.
Flying with even a bit of slack will very quickly stretch them, so it
is good to check them early in the test flying.

There have been no reported cases of repeated slackening here,
and there are several Rebels with over 300 - 400 hr. on spring gear.
A concern, and a point to watch, but not likely a major problem.

....bobp

---------------------------------orig.-----------------------------------
At 01:24 PM 11/4/98 -0400, you wrote:
Hi Bob

Good to hear that even "Early" Elites have the reinforced spring gear
mounts.
The bolt I mentioned was the one you referred to below when responding to
Alister
who has the spring gear, not the bungee mounts on which the thread started.

The concern is the tendency to have to re-tighten things after they have
had a
chance to take a set. The question is what has taken a set, the bolt or
the
mounting point and why? In fact, the bigger question is whether there is a
good
reason this slacking will not continue.

Regards

Dave R.

Bob Patterson wrote:
Dave,

You have nothing to worry about with the Elite - "Early" was the
first
10 or so Rebels with spring gear - long ago ! All of the doubler mods
were included on the Elite, as they are standard on the Rebel now.

The bolts I was referring to are the bolts that hold the
BUNGEES -
not the gear mounting bolts - again not a problem on spring gear.

The bolts that hold the spring gear on (i believe there are 4 of
them ?) are strong enough, PROVIDED they are properly torqued. The only
problem occurred when a builder flew with CONSIDERABLE slack in all of
these bolts. This would cause shear failure on any aircraft...

Ongoing problems with Rebels are pretty minor - we've got about
950 Hr. on one of ours, with NO major problems. Most of the
"difficulties"
you are hearing about are routine maintenance issues. The "float fix"
was a problem only discovered this year, and the factory responded
within a few weeks with a solution that could be retrofitted. It is
really more of a problem with the engine mount design (non-MAM) than
the Rebel airframe - the mount SHOULD have a cross brace tube between
the fuse corner mounts.

....bobp

-------------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 10:03 AM 11/4/98 -0400, you wrote:
Bob

You have me quite concerned!

We have an "EARLY" Elite, #583 (have heard of just a few with lower S/Ns
and the
parts are older than the first production release of the manual) so your
comments about doublers etc. are worrisome.

Are you talking about Rebels or Rebel Elites when you speak of weakness
in the
spring gear support structure? How about factory update pieces? We
have not
heard about the doublers, are they just (plain) Rebel?

As for the gear mounting bolt you mention, that brings out the
Mechanical
Engineer in me. I believe it is a single point failure mechanism isn't
it?
Are
we sure that at the present size it is large enough? Are the "few"
problems so
far representitive of just a few flying examples or is it a matter of a
few
isolated problems in a larger sample of aircraft?

Thanks

Dave Ricker

Bob Patterson wrote:
push
time
hours -
installed ??
little
'fingers'
waves
----------------------------orig.----------------------------------------
-
some
fuse
rivets.






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Bungee gear --> spring gear

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 4:51 pm
by Mike Davis
Received: from dialup.voyager.co.nz (ts1p05.net.ashburton.voyager.co.nz
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Message-Id: <199811050707.UAA24178@host02.net.voyager.co.nz>
From: "Alister Yeoman" <yeoman@voyager.co.nz>
To: "Murphy Rebel" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Bungee gear --> spring gear
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 20:08:22 +1300
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Hi again Bob,

THANKYOU, THANKYOU!

Thats the feedback I have been looking for!

I found it hard to believe that I was the only one experiencing this skin
movement and rivet problems in this area. The fixes you describe fit in
exactly with my own thinking.

It's fascinating that the floatfix bulletin has been added to in the
doorpost area, right where my problems are!

Thanks again!

Alister
----------
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: Murphy Rebel <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Bungee gear --> spring gear
Date: Thursday, November 05, 1998 5:44 PM


Thanks for the explanation of 'panting' - bulges like pants
that are too long !! :-)

Several builders have seen this effect in the area you mention,
also in the panel right under the doors. One fix has been to re-make
that panel in .032 - if you haven't already rivetted it on. They have
also stiffened that panel by adding short vertical L or C channels
bent up & rivetted inside between the bottom & the door frame.
I have also seen pieces of wing stringer used as stiffeners -
this is a great idea - they're light & strong & small enough to slip
in almost anywhere. A piece of stringer on an angle, perhaps almost
parallel with the witches hat in that side panel might solve your
problem. (or an extra piece of witches hat ...)

The corner wraps were thickened up because they were TOO
sensitive to denting - I was one of the first victims ! The original
owner of our third Rebel had removed the wings in a hurry (don't ask !!),
and left his son holding the wing tip while he removed the BOTTOM (!)
strut bolt. When the wing tip dropped, he grabbed the strut & lifted
it so it dented the corner wrap.
This was a minor blemish (i thought) - after a hundred or so
hours of flying, it was apparent that the 'dent' was flexing - it
eventually opened up into a 2" crack !! At this point, the corner
wraps were replaced with the heavier .025 versions. Since then,
the factory decided that, since they were using .032 for the heavier
Elite, thay would make THAT (.032) the standard - not a bad idea !!

This sort of thing applies to ALL aircraft that use a stessed-
skin (semi-monocoque) construction, and all corner wraps on the Rebel,
including the rear fuse. If anyone out there has a dent in the wraps,
the wrap MUST be replaced to maintain strength & durability !!

If the smoking rivets are on the doorpost, there is a "newer"
addition to the 'float fix' AD (since Oshkosh 1998). It calls for
an extra row of larger rivets, staggered between the existing rivets,
all the way up the doorpost. Please check with MAM for the exact
details. Anyone out there looking at heavy float usage would be well
advised to do this while building..
This was the result of 'field experience' - someone decided
to fly in waves that were MUCH larger than MAM originally intended
(nobody else ventured out of the seaplane base !) I agree that these
things sound dramatic, but again - NO ONE was hurt, and the Rebel flew
away the next day. Not a big problem, just one more minor improvement.
There are always several aircraft damaged at Oshkosh
- there WERE over 14,000 aircraft there !!, and not <all> the landings
were perfect !! :-) or :-(

I'm sure your gear bolts were not loose because of hard landings,
which would have stretched them. There are many areas where the bolts
do slacken slightly after a bit of flying.

We were flying to Florida with No. 001, in March, a long time
ago ( ~ 1991) when we found the horizontal stab quite loose on a
preflight in Ohio. The bolts fastening it at the root had slackened -
after about 60 or 80 hr. of flying !! Now I always double check them
on my walkaround - along with many other spots .... part of my
'ongoing maintenance program'. :-)

Here we have an initial 25 HR. test flying period with various
restrictions - once completed, you can fly anywhere & carry passengers.
The end of this period is an EXCELLENT time to go over the whole
aircraft, checking & lubricating everywhere. You might be surprised
- i saw one Rebel that had ONE rivet missing on top of the wing -
it was never installed !!

I love your descriptions of flying & hunting there !!! God,
I WISH I could fly along on one of those - it sounds BEAUTIFUL !!
Sigh !! Maybe we'll come up on the lottery one day & come to visit !!!

Glad you're enjoying the Rebel as much as the rest of us :-)

....bobp

-------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 09:42 PM 11/4/98 +1300, you wrote:
Hi again,

Thanks for the info, I was speaking to Grant from Murphy today and he
backed up what you say, he said Darral reckons to run about 12lbs in the
tyres.

I'd come to that conclusion in the last few days and have tried it, it
certainly softens the ride and appears to take some of the loads away
from
the fuse.

Panting of the skins is a term used over here to indicate flexing of the
skins in certain situations.

I do have the latter kit with the stronger floor area, the problem is
not
in the twisting forces with braking etc. but with the dissipation of the
loads through the fuse resulting from the flexing of the spring gear (
ie
weight bearing loads)

The panting I am getting is just ahead of the front door post,down low
just
above where the corner rap meets the side panel, it occurs when the
undercarriage is working. It is causing the 'smoking' of the rivets down
low on the front door post.

It is of some concern, and obviously a fix is required, stronger rivets
in
the area concerned would probably do the job, but I do wonder if a
doubler
over the area that is 'panting' may be the best long term option,
especially with all the off airfield work that I do.

Murphy have been beating around the bush in regard to a fix for the
problem, but they have said that the front corner raps have been
increased
in thickness to 35thou. ( I wonder why!)

Yes, the aircraft has only done 35hrs to date, but I am using the way it
should be used!! It has to hold up thats why I built it!!

And yes, I had to re-torque the under carriage bolts fairly early on, as
they had loosened.

Also remember that if you are fitting an 0-320, or a heavier motor, to
do
the floatfix bulletin promulgated by Murphy, I found out the hard way,
all
the taxiing over rough ground caused the top of the firewall to flex
creating some cracking of the firewall around the top mounts on either
side, this happened within 20hrs!!!

This all sounds very dramatic, but it isn't really, I just look at these
problems as just part of the shake down period, we'll sort this out and
be
off like a rocket!

It is the neatest aircraft to fly, and you can go to the greatest
places.
The other day my son and I tossed some camping gear and a rifle in the
back
and headed off for the mountains, an hour and twenty later we dropped
into
the headwaters of the Wilkins river on to an old deer hunters strip
(Alt.
2000ft, 280 metres long and two metres wide!). We were surrounded by
8000ft
peaks.

We had an evening hunt in the most beautiful country possible, slept
under
the aircraft, up early and away for another hunt then back for a late
breakfast. Toss the gear in the plane and off home, all in under 24 hrs!
What a way to travel!!

The only problems I am getting with the aircraft is associated with the
rough and undulating terrain that I am operating off, in the air the
aircraft has been faultless, I have full confidence that these issues
will
be worked through reasonably quickly.

Cheers

Alister Yeoman




----------
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: Murphy Rebel <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Bungee gear
Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 5:05 PM


I run the fat tires - 8.00 x 600. They aren't very heavy-duty, but
they ARE inexpensive !! :-)

Normal pressure is around 20 lb - but i have run them as low
as 10 lb. The only danger if they're too soft is that they TURN on the
wheel, and pull the valve stem out of the tube !! :-(

Very fancy method - add air, then put a foot on the tire &
push
on top - look for a little flattening (1/2" bulge ??) at bottom, and a
little side to side wiggle. Seems to give nice landings that way ....

It's unusual to see problems with the spring with such low
time
- how many hours on the Rebel ?? What's 'panting' of skins ????

You might want to re-torque the bolts that hold the spring
gear on - I've heard of several that loosened up in the first 50 hours
-
and there were one or 2 that had sheared bolts.

Were the rivets that are smoking dipped in epoxy when
installed
??
You <could> paint some epoxy on inside & out now ... might help.

I hate to say this, but "the EARLY" spring gear kits were a
little
weak in the floor area. Newer ones have several doublers with
'fingers'
that are supposed to spread the loads much better, preventing the
waves
in the floor. It might be possible to add doublers inside or out, even
now. It would depend where the problem is. I'm sure the factory could
help, if you sent photos of the problem spots ... (Hope you can get
someone to scan photos of your Rebel for us - we're all curious !)

.....bobp

Apologies to those who've heard "the Early" too often !!

----------------------------orig.-----------------------------------------
At 07:16 PM 11/3/98 +1300, you wrote:
some
fuse
rivets.
This
was
anyway.
idea.
go
bungee
spindle
bungee
on
in
9044
is
&
re-reading
that
greatly
Please
up
primary
serious
will
of
the
SINGLE
Rebel -
saved
----------------------------orig.-------------------------------------
bolts
new
the
block
for
bolt
to
would
you


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Bungee gear --> spring gear

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 4:51 pm
by Mike Davis
Received: from [137.186.225.238] (helo=ms01-492.tor.istar.ca)
by mail2.toronto.istar.net with smtp (Exim 1.92 #2)
for murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
id 0zcCW5-0005vY-00; Sat, 7 Nov 1998 12:51:17 -0500
X-Sender: crs1188@inforamp.net
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Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel)
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: Re: Bungee gear --> spring gear
Message-Id: <E0zcCW5-0005vY-00@mail2.toronto.istar.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 12:51:17 -0500


YOU'RE WELCOME !! YOU'RE WELCOME !! <big grin !!>

Glad this mail list is of some use to everybody - THANKS again
to Mike Davis for setting it up & maintaining it !!!

For those who are new to the list - Mike is THINKING ABOUT
building a Rebel, so set up this list to learn a little more about it !!
It takes a lot of time, effort, and disk space, I'm sure, to maintain it.
You can also see Rebel photos at www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel - please
send yours along ... (and send anyone interested in Rebels to that address
so they can join this list).

THANK YOU MIKE !!

....bobp

p.s.
Are you ready to order yet, Mike ??? :-) ;-)

-------------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 08:08 PM 11/5/98 +1300, you wrote:
Hi again Bob,

THANKYOU, THANKYOU!

Thats the feedback I have been looking for!

I found it hard to believe that I was the only one experiencing this skin
movement and rivet problems in this area. The fixes you describe fit in
exactly with my own thinking.

It's fascinating that the floatfix bulletin has been added to in the
doorpost area, right where my problems are!

Thanks again!

Alister
----------
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: Murphy Rebel <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Bungee gear --> spring gear
Date: Thursday, November 05, 1998 5:44 PM


Thanks for the explanation of 'panting' - bulges like pants
that are too long !! :-)

Several builders have seen this effect in the area you mention,
also in the panel right under the doors. One fix has been to re-make
that panel in .032 - if you haven't already rivetted it on. They have
also stiffened that panel by adding short vertical L or C channels
bent up & rivetted inside between the bottom & the door frame.
I have also seen pieces of wing stringer used as stiffeners -
this is a great idea - they're light & strong & small enough to slip
in almost anywhere. A piece of stringer on an angle, perhaps almost
parallel with the witches hat in that side panel might solve your
problem. (or an extra piece of witches hat ...)

The corner wraps were thickened up because they were TOO
sensitive to denting - I was one of the first victims ! The original
owner of our third Rebel had removed the wings in a hurry (don't ask !!),
and left his son holding the wing tip while he removed the BOTTOM (!)
strut bolt. When the wing tip dropped, he grabbed the strut & lifted
it so it dented the corner wrap.
This was a minor blemish (i thought) - after a hundred or so
hours of flying, it was apparent that the 'dent' was flexing - it
eventually opened up into a 2" crack !! At this point, the corner
wraps were replaced with the heavier .025 versions. Since then,
the factory decided that, since they were using .032 for the heavier
Elite, thay would make THAT (.032) the standard - not a bad idea !!

This sort of thing applies to ALL aircraft that use a stessed-
skin (semi-monocoque) construction, and all corner wraps on the Rebel,
including the rear fuse. If anyone out there has a dent in the wraps,
the wrap MUST be replaced to maintain strength & durability !!

If the smoking rivets are on the doorpost, there is a "newer"
addition to the 'float fix' AD (since Oshkosh 1998). It calls for
an extra row of larger rivets, staggered between the existing rivets,
all the way up the doorpost. Please check with MAM for the exact
details. Anyone out there looking at heavy float usage would be well
advised to do this while building..
This was the result of 'field experience' - someone decided
to fly in waves that were MUCH larger than MAM originally intended
(nobody else ventured out of the seaplane base !) I agree that these
things sound dramatic, but again - NO ONE was hurt, and the Rebel flew
away the next day. Not a big problem, just one more minor improvement.
There are always several aircraft damaged at Oshkosh
- there WERE over 14,000 aircraft there !!, and not <all> the landings
were perfect !! :-) or :-(

I'm sure your gear bolts were not loose because of hard landings,
which would have stretched them. There are many areas where the bolts
do slacken slightly after a bit of flying.

We were flying to Florida with No. 001, in March, a long time
ago ( ~ 1991) when we found the horizontal stab quite loose on a
preflight in Ohio. The bolts fastening it at the root had slackened -
after about 60 or 80 hr. of flying !! Now I always double check them
on my walkaround - along with many other spots .... part of my
'ongoing maintenance program'. :-)

Here we have an initial 25 HR. test flying period with various
restrictions - once completed, you can fly anywhere & carry passengers.
The end of this period is an EXCELLENT time to go over the whole
aircraft, checking & lubricating everywhere. You might be surprised
- i saw one Rebel that had ONE rivet missing on top of the wing -
it was never installed !!

I love your descriptions of flying & hunting there !!! God,
I WISH I could fly along on one of those - it sounds BEAUTIFUL !!
Sigh !! Maybe we'll come up on the lottery one day & come to visit !!!

Glad you're enjoying the Rebel as much as the rest of us :-)

....bobp

-------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 09:42 PM 11/4/98 +1300, you wrote:
Hi again,

Thanks for the info, I was speaking to Grant from Murphy today and he
backed up what you say, he said Darral reckons to run about 12lbs in the
tyres.

I'd come to that conclusion in the last few days and have tried it, it
certainly softens the ride and appears to take some of the loads away
from
the fuse.

Panting of the skins is a term used over here to indicate flexing of the
skins in certain situations.

I do have the latter kit with the stronger floor area, the problem is
not
in the twisting forces with braking etc. but with the dissipation of the
loads through the fuse resulting from the flexing of the spring gear (
ie
weight bearing loads)

The panting I am getting is just ahead of the front door post,down low
just
above where the corner rap meets the side panel, it occurs when the
undercarriage is working. It is causing the 'smoking' of the rivets down
low on the front door post.

It is of some concern, and obviously a fix is required, stronger rivets
in
the area concerned would probably do the job, but I do wonder if a
doubler
over the area that is 'panting' may be the best long term option,
especially with all the off airfield work that I do.

Murphy have been beating around the bush in regard to a fix for the
problem, but they have said that the front corner raps have been
increased
in thickness to 35thou. ( I wonder why!)

Yes, the aircraft has only done 35hrs to date, but I am using the way it
should be used!! It has to hold up thats why I built it!!

And yes, I had to re-torque the under carriage bolts fairly early on, as
they had loosened.

Also remember that if you are fitting an 0-320, or a heavier motor, to
do
the floatfix bulletin promulgated by Murphy, I found out the hard way,
all
the taxiing over rough ground caused the top of the firewall to flex
creating some cracking of the firewall around the top mounts on either
side, this happened within 20hrs!!!

This all sounds very dramatic, but it isn't really, I just look at these
problems as just part of the shake down period, we'll sort this out and
be
off like a rocket!

It is the neatest aircraft to fly, and you can go to the greatest
places.
The other day my son and I tossed some camping gear and a rifle in the
back
and headed off for the mountains, an hour and twenty later we dropped
into
the headwaters of the Wilkins river on to an old deer hunters strip
(Alt.
2000ft, 280 metres long and two metres wide!). We were surrounded by
8000ft
peaks.

We had an evening hunt in the most beautiful country possible, slept
under
the aircraft, up early and away for another hunt then back for a late
breakfast. Toss the gear in the plane and off home, all in under 24 hrs!
What a way to travel!!

The only problems I am getting with the aircraft is associated with the
rough and undulating terrain that I am operating off, in the air the
aircraft has been faultless, I have full confidence that these issues
will
be worked through reasonably quickly.

Cheers

Alister Yeoman




----------
push
time
-
installed
?? little
'fingers'
waves
----------------------------orig.-----------------------------------------
some fuse
rivets.
This
was
anyway.
idea.
go
bungee spindle bungee
on
in
9044
is
&
re-reading that
greatly
Please
up
primary
serious
will
of
the
SINGLE
Rebel -
saved
----------------------------orig.-------------------------------------
bolts new
the
block
for
bolt
to
would
you



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