The Murphy Builders Site

Hello again!

Even though the MAM manual spells out to cut out the rear spar/spar caps etc
of the rear fin post to allow for 25* of travel each way and then install
the rudder stops, DO NOT DO THIS AT THIS STAGE OF THE GAME.

I have been advised that 25* of travel will hit the elevator, so wait until
you have the elevator in place to drill and rivet the stops in place (if you
have already done so you can shim between the round block and the angle
bracket later if there is interference). FWIW I cut in about 5/8", as shown
in the manual, and am currently getting about 23* of travel in either
direction. I have seen other postings of cutting almost all the flange off
to achieve this and you may be cutting more than you really need. Cut enough
now to allow the rudder to move freely, install your elevator to confirm the
proper stop position and worry about whether you need to grind a little
deeper into the fin spar at that time. Don't do it before hand!!!

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca





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Wayne, group

I suspect this is another place where Waynes' advice could apply to the Elite.
I am not sure whether the rudder stops mount in the same location but I expect
the advice is good just the same. Our manual did not tell us to cut the spar
for clearance but Grants' advice was about 25 - 30 deg and we cut to the spar to
this spec.

There are other Elite builders who are farther ahead than us, how did this work
out for you?

Tks

Dave R.

"Wayne G. O'Shea" wrote:

Hello again!

Even though the MAM manual spells out to cut out the rear spar/spar caps etc
of the rear fin post to allow for 25* of travel each way and then install
the rudder stops, DO NOT DO THIS AT THIS STAGE OF THE GAME.

I have been advised that 25* of travel will hit the elevator, so wait until
you have the elevator in place to drill and rivet the stops in place (if you
have already done so you can shim between the round block and the angle
bracket later if there is interference). FWIW I cut in about 5/8", as shown
in the manual, and am currently getting about 23* of travel in either
direction. I have seen other postings of cutting almost all the flange off
to achieve this and you may be cutting more than you really need. Cut enough
now to allow the rudder to move freely, install your elevator to confirm the
proper stop position and worry about whether you need to grind a little
deeper into the fin spar at that time. Don't do it before hand!!!

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

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Just ran a slide show of the pictures I have taken thus far on the SR. I
realized that since I did the 3500 upgrade to the rear fin spar that the
hinges are sitting out .080 further than if a SR2500. Therefore you would
have to cut in 3/4" to get the same rudder travel that I have right now if
you are leaving your bird in the 2500 configuration. That said, still better
to cut light and check clearance from the elevator before you cut deeper
than necessary.

Regards.
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 8:03 PM
Subject: SR- Rudder Travel (Fuselage manual)

Hello again!

Even though the MAM manual spells out to cut out the rear spar/spar caps

etc

of the rear fin post to allow for 25* of travel each way and then install
the rudder stops, DO NOT DO THIS AT THIS STAGE OF THE GAME.

I have been advised that 25* of travel will hit the elevator, so wait

until

you have the elevator in place to drill and rivet the stops in place (if

you

have already done so you can shim between the round block and the angle
bracket later if there is interference). FWIW I cut in about 5/8", as

shown

in the manual, and am currently getting about 23* of travel in either
direction. I have seen other postings of cutting almost all the flange off
to achieve this and you may be cutting more than you really need. Cut

enough

now to allow the rudder to move freely, install your elevator to confirm

the

proper stop position and worry about whether you need to grind a little
deeper into the fin spar at that time. Don't do it before hand!!!

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca



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