Wing wiring / Aeroflash strobes
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:47 pm
We wrestled with this as well and decided on the Aeroflash units with power
supplies in each wing tip. We used 1/2 inch CPVC held in 5/8 inch Adel
clamps for conduit from the strut access hole through the leading edge ribs
to the tip. The CPVC sticks out to within about 6 inches from the
strobe/position light. There is a break across the 2nd bay from the tip to
allow wiring the power supply. There are several other considerations.
You have to have access to the power supply for possible replacement. We
were going to go in through the landing light (2nd bay in from tip each
wing) and then decided to make the wing tips screw removable. Either will
work, but the removable wing tips are a BUNCH of extra work. For the
Aeroflash units you will need to run a switched 12v wire to the strobe
power supply as well as a switched 12v wire to the tip light for red (or
green)/white light. Be sure to use your multimeter to check what is
connected to what in the tip light as it is internally wired in an odd
fashion (to me).
Our reasons for going the above route were:
1- Less electronic noise. It is a good idea to use shielded cable for
all the low and high votage cable to minimize radio noise. You can
buy shielded 12v power wire and use braid to slip over the short HV
leads.
2- Avoids HV in the fuel tank area.
3- Aeroflash units are cheaper than Whelan.
4- CPVC is cheap, light, and easy to push wire through. Also a good
idea to put a future pull string in at installation.
5- Here in the US at least, the Aeroflash units will cover all the
required lighting in one unit at
each tip.
As a final note, we are adding a Whelan self contained red halogen flasher
on top of the fin for extra safety at night and for ground operations. It
is quite compact and light and about US$140 if I remember.
Ralph Baker / Sue Scouten
Elite 624E (reserved)
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supplies in each wing tip. We used 1/2 inch CPVC held in 5/8 inch Adel
clamps for conduit from the strut access hole through the leading edge ribs
to the tip. The CPVC sticks out to within about 6 inches from the
strobe/position light. There is a break across the 2nd bay from the tip to
allow wiring the power supply. There are several other considerations.
You have to have access to the power supply for possible replacement. We
were going to go in through the landing light (2nd bay in from tip each
wing) and then decided to make the wing tips screw removable. Either will
work, but the removable wing tips are a BUNCH of extra work. For the
Aeroflash units you will need to run a switched 12v wire to the strobe
power supply as well as a switched 12v wire to the tip light for red (or
green)/white light. Be sure to use your multimeter to check what is
connected to what in the tip light as it is internally wired in an odd
fashion (to me).
Our reasons for going the above route were:
1- Less electronic noise. It is a good idea to use shielded cable for
all the low and high votage cable to minimize radio noise. You can
buy shielded 12v power wire and use braid to slip over the short HV
leads.
2- Avoids HV in the fuel tank area.
3- Aeroflash units are cheaper than Whelan.
4- CPVC is cheap, light, and easy to push wire through. Also a good
idea to put a future pull string in at installation.
5- Here in the US at least, the Aeroflash units will cover all the
required lighting in one unit at
each tip.
As a final note, we are adding a Whelan self contained red halogen flasher
on top of the fin for extra safety at night and for ground operations. It
is quite compact and light and about US$140 if I remember.
Ralph Baker / Sue Scouten
Elite 624E (reserved)
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
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