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Wing wiring / Aeroflash strobes

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:47 pm
by Ralph Baker
We wrestled with this as well and decided on the Aeroflash units with power
supplies in each wing tip. We used 1/2 inch CPVC held in 5/8 inch Adel
clamps for conduit from the strut access hole through the leading edge ribs
to the tip. The CPVC sticks out to within about 6 inches from the
strobe/position light. There is a break across the 2nd bay from the tip to
allow wiring the power supply. There are several other considerations.
You have to have access to the power supply for possible replacement. We
were going to go in through the landing light (2nd bay in from tip each
wing) and then decided to make the wing tips screw removable. Either will
work, but the removable wing tips are a BUNCH of extra work. For the
Aeroflash units you will need to run a switched 12v wire to the strobe
power supply as well as a switched 12v wire to the tip light for red (or
green)/white light. Be sure to use your multimeter to check what is
connected to what in the tip light as it is internally wired in an odd
fashion (to me).

Our reasons for going the above route were:
1- Less electronic noise. It is a good idea to use shielded cable for
all the low and high votage cable to minimize radio noise. You can
buy shielded 12v power wire and use braid to slip over the short HV
leads.
2- Avoids HV in the fuel tank area.
3- Aeroflash units are cheaper than Whelan.
4- CPVC is cheap, light, and easy to push wire through. Also a good
idea to put a future pull string in at installation.
5- Here in the US at least, the Aeroflash units will cover all the
required lighting in one unit at
each tip.

As a final note, we are adding a Whelan self contained red halogen flasher
on top of the fin for extra safety at night and for ground operations. It
is quite compact and light and about US$140 if I remember.
Ralph Baker / Sue Scouten
Elite 624E (reserved)



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Wing wiring / Aeroflash strobes

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:47 pm
by David Ricker
Ralph/Sue

We made the same decisions for strobes & landing lights for our Elite but we
haven't sat down to work out wire sizes for the strobes or the landing lights,
can you shed a bit of light on your choices? I am thinking about whether there
are any issues of voltage drop over the distance from the 12V source to the
electrics/electronics at the wing tips if you use the same guage as the strobes
are wired with. I am guessing temp rise will not be an issue.

Thanks

Dave R.
Francine D.
Elite 583



Ralph Baker wrote:
We wrestled with this as well and decided on the Aeroflash units with power
supplies in each wing tip. We used 1/2 inch CPVC held in 5/8 inch Adel
clamps for conduit from the strut access hole through the leading edge ribs
to the tip. The CPVC sticks out to within about 6 inches from the
strobe/position light. There is a break across the 2nd bay from the tip to
allow wiring the power supply. There are several other considerations.
You have to have access to the power supply for possible replacement. We
were going to go in through the landing light (2nd bay in from tip each
wing) and then decided to make the wing tips screw removable. Either will
work, but the removable wing tips are a BUNCH of extra work. For the
Aeroflash units you will need to run a switched 12v wire to the strobe
power supply as well as a switched 12v wire to the tip light for red (or
green)/white light. Be sure to use your multimeter to check what is
connected to what in the tip light as it is internally wired in an odd
fashion (to me).

Our reasons for going the above route were:
1- Less electronic noise. It is a good idea to use shielded cable for
all the low and high votage cable to minimize radio noise. You can
buy shielded 12v power wire and use braid to slip over the short HV
leads.
2- Avoids HV in the fuel tank area.
3- Aeroflash units are cheaper than Whelan.
4- CPVC is cheap, light, and easy to push wire through. Also a good
idea to put a future pull string in at installation.
5- Here in the US at least, the Aeroflash units will cover all the
required lighting in one unit at
each tip.

As a final note, we are adding a Whelan self contained red halogen flasher
on top of the fin for extra safety at night and for ground operations. It
is quite compact and light and about US$140 if I remember.
Ralph Baker / Sue Scouten
Elite 624E (reserved)

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Wing wiring / Aeroflash strobes

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:47 pm
by Mike Kimball
I was told 18 gauge by Whelen, so I used 16 gauge. I ended up using 16
gauge for everything in the wing; lights and pitot heat. This correlated
with what I had come up with from a wire size versus max amps versus
distance table I ran across somewhere in my pile of books. But I'm no
expert and would love to hear confirmation from one of our very
knowledgeable members of the list.

Mike Kimball
SR#044

-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
David Ricker
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 5:53 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Wing wiring / Aeroflash strobes


Ralph/Sue

We made the same decisions for strobes & landing lights for our Elite but we
haven't sat down to work out wire sizes for the strobes or the landing
lights,
can you shed a bit of light on your choices? I am thinking about whether
there
are any issues of voltage drop over the distance from the 12V source to the
electrics/electronics at the wing tips if you use the same guage as the
strobes
are wired with. I am guessing temp rise will not be an issue.

Thanks

Dave R.
Francine D.
Elite 583



Ralph Baker wrote:
We wrestled with this as well and decided on the Aeroflash units with
power
supplies in each wing tip. We used 1/2 inch CPVC held in 5/8 inch Adel
clamps for conduit from the strut access hole through the leading edge
ribs
to the tip. The CPVC sticks out to within about 6 inches from the
strobe/position light. There is a break across the 2nd bay from the tip
to
allow wiring the power supply. There are several other considerations.
You have to have access to the power supply for possible replacement. We
were going to go in through the landing light (2nd bay in from tip each
wing) and then decided to make the wing tips screw removable. Either will
work, but the removable wing tips are a BUNCH of extra work. For the
Aeroflash units you will need to run a switched 12v wire to the strobe
power supply as well as a switched 12v wire to the tip light for red (or
green)/white light. Be sure to use your multimeter to check what is
connected to what in the tip light as it is internally wired in an odd
fashion (to me).

Our reasons for going the above route were:
1- Less electronic noise. It is a good idea to use shielded cable for
all the low and high votage cable to minimize radio noise. You can
buy shielded 12v power wire and use braid to slip over the short HV
leads.
2- Avoids HV in the fuel tank area.
3- Aeroflash units are cheaper than Whelan.
4- CPVC is cheap, light, and easy to push wire through. Also a good
idea to put a future pull string in at installation.
5- Here in the US at least, the Aeroflash units will cover all the
required lighting in one unit at
each tip.

As a final note, we are adding a Whelan self contained red halogen flasher
on top of the fin for extra safety at night and for ground operations. It
is quite compact and light and about US$140 if I remember.
Ralph Baker / Sue Scouten
Elite 624E (reserved)

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** To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com **




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