Float hard point fix
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:47 pm
Ken, I'm trying to picture just how you applied these patches. You said you
did this before installing the inner floor, but I assume you are still
talking about putting these patches on the outside of the side skins? One
thought I did have was drilling out a few rivets above and below the
cut-out, and then inserting a patch inside between the bulkheads and side
skin, if I can squeeze it in without taking everything apart. Inside or
outside, though, I was thinking of just using one patch instead of two. It
will take some shrinking and forming to get around the compound curve you
mentioned. To avoid the oval holes, I may have to drill up to 5/32 rivet
size. In your case, did you use two patches on the outside because of the
change in surface height where the front corner wrap ends? I am not exactly
sure where you put your spacers. How thick was the spacer material? Any more
info or description here would be greatly appreciated. Any possibility of
uploading a picture to the archives? Thanks for your help.
-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
klehman
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 6:36 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 1800 Amphib A/C Empty Weight increase
Walter
I added exterior patches before the inner floor went in and it was still
tricky with the compound curve there and the four panels meeting at that
corner. I ended up with one patch on the forward bulkhead and another on
the rear partial bulkhead (about 1/8" overlap between them) and a couple
of spacers to allow for the different surfaces (heights?) of the
original panels. I figured it wasn't worth doing unless you picked up at
least 4 rivets on each bulkhead on each side of the cutout. And of
course if you end up with oval rivet holes it might be worse than doing
nothing.
Ken
there is no sign of it on mine, but would like to fix it before it
starts. Sooner or later, I am going to
encounter real rough water. I had a look the other day on what it would
take to undo the floor and sides,
and I don't like the looks of it. I remember you mentioning that you
might try fixing it with a "band aid"
on the outside. I think I'll try that. A little paint touch-up is a lot
less work than ripping apart the inside. I
can see how those little C cut-outs in the bulkheads present a weak
spot, so if I put a patch on the
outside to cover them, maybe that will do it. Not sure of the exact size
or thickness to use, so Wayne,
if you do it to Howard's, please let me know exactly how you do it.
** To unsubscribe, send e-mail to list-server@dcsol.com with **
** UNSUBSCRIBE MURPHY-REBEL in the message body on a line by itself **
** Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm **
** To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com **
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
did this before installing the inner floor, but I assume you are still
talking about putting these patches on the outside of the side skins? One
thought I did have was drilling out a few rivets above and below the
cut-out, and then inserting a patch inside between the bulkheads and side
skin, if I can squeeze it in without taking everything apart. Inside or
outside, though, I was thinking of just using one patch instead of two. It
will take some shrinking and forming to get around the compound curve you
mentioned. To avoid the oval holes, I may have to drill up to 5/32 rivet
size. In your case, did you use two patches on the outside because of the
change in surface height where the front corner wrap ends? I am not exactly
sure where you put your spacers. How thick was the spacer material? Any more
info or description here would be greatly appreciated. Any possibility of
uploading a picture to the archives? Thanks for your help.
-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
klehman
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 6:36 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 1800 Amphib A/C Empty Weight increase
Walter
I added exterior patches before the inner floor went in and it was still
tricky with the compound curve there and the four panels meeting at that
corner. I ended up with one patch on the forward bulkhead and another on
the rear partial bulkhead (about 1/8" overlap between them) and a couple
of spacers to allow for the different surfaces (heights?) of the
original panels. I figured it wasn't worth doing unless you picked up at
least 4 rivets on each bulkhead on each side of the cutout. And of
course if you end up with oval rivet holes it might be worse than doing
nothing.
Ken
though, has me concerned. So far"Walter Klatt" wrote:
This rear float hard point pucker factor that's been mentioned earlier,
there is no sign of it on mine, but would like to fix it before it
starts. Sooner or later, I am going to
encounter real rough water. I had a look the other day on what it would
take to undo the floor and sides,
and I don't like the looks of it. I remember you mentioning that you
might try fixing it with a "band aid"
on the outside. I think I'll try that. A little paint touch-up is a lot
less work than ripping apart the inside. I
can see how those little C cut-outs in the bulkheads present a weak
spot, so if I put a patch on the
outside to cover them, maybe that will do it. Not sure of the exact size
or thickness to use, so Wayne,
if you do it to Howard's, please let me know exactly how you do it.
** To unsubscribe, send e-mail to list-server@dcsol.com with **
** UNSUBSCRIBE MURPHY-REBEL in the message body on a line by itself **
** Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm **
** To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com **
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------