Rebel tailspring support/Fus-30 doubler
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:37 pm
Rick and Ian!!!! (and everyone else that needs to do the doubler)
You have me a little worried as I have <NEVER> had to redo the TS-1/2/3/4's after adding a .032 doubler to a flying Rebel's tail cone. This information has also been posted to the list before, but I will go through it again!
The TS-1's get bolted back into the original holes on the tail post sides (fin rear spar), so why would the piece of angle (TS-3) that the stab struts bolt to be any higher or lower??? Even if the TS1's go wider, the TS-3 is not going to get higher or lower!! It should be in the exact same place, so the struts shouldn't need to change. I have seen cases where the struts should have been changed when changing from the old aluminum tail spring to the thicker one, as this lowers the TS-3, but just using the old ones and creating a negative dihedral in the tail feathers doesn't change the flying qualities at all (just looks a little funny!).
The TS-2 plate that goes across below the FUS-30 position isn't critical. I like it up tight against the FUS-30, but not necessary. Ian if yours is now too tight, to hold it flush against the bottoms of the TS-1's, use your belt sander and relieve the upper surface to match the shape of the Fus-30 until it almost sits flush with the TS-1's. The fit shouldn't have changed by more than the thickness of your new doubler, if your TS-2 was tight before the upgrade!
If you have added a .032 doubler to the FUS-30, this would move the holes of the TS-1 out .032 on each side. IF you had the assembly together with 3/16 bolts originally (.1875" diameter) adding .032 gives us .2195. (Adding .040 gives us .2275) Therefore if you hold the plates centered on each side you should be able to updrill to 1/4" bolts (.250) and have all new material around the holes perimeter. I have even done this modification numerous times leaving the existing 3/16 bolts, as the 1/4" bolts aren't a structural upgrade for assembly retention! They were increased so you could use them as rudder stops. When using .032 for a doubler, a light squeeze with a pair of toggle clamps, or a c- clamp, will pull the TS-1's back to the original width and allow the bolts to go back in the original holes to hold it all together, without the need for the above mention redrill. If you already have 1/4" bolts in place, this squeeze is your answer, unless you want to do all the extra work and buy more parts!
Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
You have me a little worried as I have <NEVER> had to redo the TS-1/2/3/4's after adding a .032 doubler to a flying Rebel's tail cone. This information has also been posted to the list before, but I will go through it again!
The TS-1's get bolted back into the original holes on the tail post sides (fin rear spar), so why would the piece of angle (TS-3) that the stab struts bolt to be any higher or lower??? Even if the TS1's go wider, the TS-3 is not going to get higher or lower!! It should be in the exact same place, so the struts shouldn't need to change. I have seen cases where the struts should have been changed when changing from the old aluminum tail spring to the thicker one, as this lowers the TS-3, but just using the old ones and creating a negative dihedral in the tail feathers doesn't change the flying qualities at all (just looks a little funny!).
The TS-2 plate that goes across below the FUS-30 position isn't critical. I like it up tight against the FUS-30, but not necessary. Ian if yours is now too tight, to hold it flush against the bottoms of the TS-1's, use your belt sander and relieve the upper surface to match the shape of the Fus-30 until it almost sits flush with the TS-1's. The fit shouldn't have changed by more than the thickness of your new doubler, if your TS-2 was tight before the upgrade!
If you have added a .032 doubler to the FUS-30, this would move the holes of the TS-1 out .032 on each side. IF you had the assembly together with 3/16 bolts originally (.1875" diameter) adding .032 gives us .2195. (Adding .040 gives us .2275) Therefore if you hold the plates centered on each side you should be able to updrill to 1/4" bolts (.250) and have all new material around the holes perimeter. I have even done this modification numerous times leaving the existing 3/16 bolts, as the 1/4" bolts aren't a structural upgrade for assembly retention! They were increased so you could use them as rudder stops. When using .032 for a doubler, a light squeeze with a pair of toggle clamps, or a c- clamp, will pull the TS-1's back to the original width and allow the bolts to go back in the original holes to hold it all together, without the need for the above mention redrill. If you already have 1/4" bolts in place, this squeeze is your answer, unless you want to do all the extra work and buy more parts!
Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: allsure (allsure@iprimus.com.au)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2002 7:46 AM
Subject: Rebel tailspring support
G'day
Today I finished the reinforcing fix to the Fus 30. (It was a most trying day with the temperature in my shed of +39oC)
However I have a question regarding the fitting of TS-2-1. After adding the doubler, the TS-2-1 does not fit as it did and is now about 3/16" away from it.
Should I make up some packers to keep TS-2-1 away from the fuse doubler, or should it rest hard against it?
The manual seems to show some daylight between it and the fuse.
Does any one have a safe way to alter the lengths of the horizontal supports?
I would appreciate some thoughts.
Thanks and regards
Ian Donaldson