The Murphy Builders Site

To anybody that wants a tip!

THIS IS FOR THOSE OF US THAT CUT THE FIREWALL BACK 3".

Cut 2 tubes 22" long.attach these to the inst. panel.
Follow the angle of these tubes to the firewall, This will give you the
height on the firewall. Mark the centre to line up the gussets left to
right. Now cut .035 connecting plates 6"x8" one for the top, one for the
bottom. These will attach to the firewall gussets. Now cut 2 tubes 6 1/2"
long. These will attach to the 8" side of the plates. Mark appropriate
spacing,drill, debur, chromate and rivet.. I am not riveting in place until
my instruments are installed.

GOOD LUCK TO ALL

Murray Cherkas
REBEL 505

Hi Murray !

Speaking of installing instruments .....

I guess you know that many builders are mounting the flight
instruments on a 'floating panel' - a separate piece of metal or
Lexan that allows the instruments to mount through oversized holes,
supported by shock mounts. (You don't want to cut a big square hole
out of the panel - it's structural !) For shock mounts, you could
just use long bolts with rubber tube slipped over them ...

Several also mount the switches and breakers on a similar
panel on the left angle section. This one doesn't need shock mounts,
and is often supported by 2 piano hinges - again, to facilitate
working on things from the front instead of crawling around over
that big control tube !! :-) You can run an angle doubler
around the inside of this opening for strength.

These have been mentioned before, but might save you some
time & trouble ...

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 09:54 PM 12/8/01 -0700, you wrote:

To anybody that wants a tip!

THIS IS FOR THOSE OF US THAT CUT THE FIREWALL BACK 3".

Cut 2 tubes 22" long.attach these to the inst. panel.
Follow the angle of these tubes to the firewall, This will give you the
height on the firewall. Mark the centre to line up the gussets left to
right. Now cut .035 connecting plates 6"x8" one for the top, one for the
bottom. These will attach to the firewall gussets. Now cut 2 tubes 6 1/2"
long. These will attach to the 8" side of the plates. Mark appropriate
spacing,drill, debur, chromate and rivet.. I am not riveting in place until
my instruments are installed.

GOOD LUCK TO ALL

Murray Cherkas
REBEL 505
.


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Thanks Bob:

I will keep your heads up information in mind. I keep a folder with all
these tips for later reference.
And yes I used my cut carrythrough's to mount under the panel for throttle,
mixture, carb heat and anything else I decide to put there.
I riveted every 3" to the panel flange. At the angle I cut a piece of .032
to match the bottom flange angle with 3 rivets per side. At the cage I also
made a gusset with 2 rivets in each angle.
I thank you for your time. As I said to Wayne, "Thanks" does not seem to
give justice to the benefit that all your advice gives to so many.

Good luck to all
Murray Cherkas
Rebel 505




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I was sorta expecting to do my first flight with a handheld radio due to
lack of funds, but I was planning to cut Bob's "big square hole" in the
middle section for installation of a standard avionics rack. Then I would
slowly fill the rack with the avionics I ultimately want, one box at a time
as funds become available. While I am waiting I was going to just install
blanks to cover up the gaping hole. Since the panel is structural, perhaps
I need to devise some kind of doublers or angle aluminum pieces to
strengthen the area where the big square hole will be.

Mike Kimball
SR#044

-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Bob Patterson
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2001 7:23 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Instrument panel reinforcing



Hi Murray !

Speaking of installing instruments .....

I guess you know that many builders are mounting the flight
instruments on a 'floating panel' - a separate piece of metal or
Lexan that allows the instruments to mount through oversized holes,
supported by shock mounts. (You don't want to cut a big square hole
out of the panel - it's structural !) For shock mounts, you could
just use long bolts with rubber tube slipped over them ...

Several also mount the switches and breakers on a similar
panel on the left angle section. This one doesn't need shock mounts,
and is often supported by 2 piano hinges - again, to facilitate
working on things from the front instead of crawling around over
that big control tube !! :-) You can run an angle doubler
around the inside of this opening for strength.

These have been mentioned before, but might save you some
time & trouble ...

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 09:54 PM 12/8/01 -0700, you wrote:

To anybody that wants a tip!

THIS IS FOR THOSE OF US THAT CUT THE FIREWALL BACK 3".

Cut 2 tubes 22" long.attach these to the inst. panel.
Follow the angle of these tubes to the firewall, This will give you the
height on the firewall. Mark the centre to line up the gussets left to
right. Now cut .035 connecting plates 6"x8" one for the top, one for the
bottom. These will attach to the firewall gussets. Now cut 2 tubes 6 1/2"
long. These will attach to the 8" side of the plates. Mark appropriate
spacing,drill, debur, chromate and rivet.. I am not riveting in place until
my instruments are installed.

GOOD LUCK TO ALL

Murray Cherkas
REBEL 505
.


** To unsubscribe, send e-mail to list-server@dcsol.com with **
** UNSUBSCRIBE MURPHY-REBEL in the message body on a line by itself **
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** To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com **

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Hi Mike !

Alum. angle all around the hole, right across the top of the
panel, and a couple of cross pieces should do it. The cross pieces
will be handy as supports anyway.

On the handheld - mount it in a plastic pocket that's fastened
to the top left of the panel, to hold it where you can see it and
reach the knobs, as well as keeping the wires out of the way somewhat -
use a headset & PTT on the stick. You'll have enough to keep you busy
on those first flights without the extra aggravation of trying to
hold onto a handheld and talk into it !! ;-)

Also - when installing permanent headset jacks - DO NOT put
them on the panel. The wires are dragging across everything, and
can be a pain if you want out in a hurry (like - upside down in
the water !). The best place we've found to pu the jacks is on the
roof, in the center, just behind the front seats. The rear jacks can
go on the sides above the backs of the seats. It's a little extra
work wiring, but a lifetime of comfort !

.....bobp

---------------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 01:31 PM 12/10/01 -0900, you wrote:

I was sorta expecting to do my first flight with a handheld radio due to
lack of funds, but I was planning to cut Bob's "big square hole" in the
middle section for installation of a standard avionics rack. Then I would
slowly fill the rack with the avionics I ultimately want, one box at a time
as funds become available. While I am waiting I was going to just install
blanks to cover up the gaping hole. Since the panel is structural, perhaps
I need to devise some kind of doublers or angle aluminum pieces to
strengthen the area where the big square hole will be.

Mike Kimball
SR#044

-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Bob Patterson
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2001 7:23 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Instrument panel reinforcing



Hi Murray !

Speaking of installing instruments .....

I guess you know that many builders are mounting the flight
instruments on a 'floating panel' - a separate piece of metal or
Lexan that allows the instruments to mount through oversized holes,
supported by shock mounts. (You don't want to cut a big square hole
out of the panel - it's structural !) For shock mounts, you could
just use long bolts with rubber tube slipped over them ...

Several also mount the switches and breakers on a similar
panel on the left angle section. This one doesn't need shock mounts,
and is often supported by 2 piano hinges - again, to facilitate
working on things from the front instead of crawling around over
that big control tube !! :-) You can run an angle doubler
around the inside of this opening for strength.

These have been mentioned before, but might save you some
time & trouble ...

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 09:54 PM 12/8/01 -0700, you wrote:

To anybody that wants a tip!

THIS IS FOR THOSE OF US THAT CUT THE FIREWALL BACK 3".

Cut 2 tubes 22" long.attach these to the inst. panel.
Follow the angle of these tubes to the firewall, This will give you the
height on the firewall. Mark the centre to line up the gussets left to
right. Now cut .035 connecting plates 6"x8" one for the top, one for the
bottom. These will attach to the firewall gussets. Now cut 2 tubes 6 1/2"
long. These will attach to the 8" side of the plates. Mark appropriate
spacing,drill, debur, chromate and rivet.. I am not riveting in place until
my instruments are installed.

GOOD LUCK TO ALL

Murray Cherkas
REBEL 505
.


** To unsubscribe, send e-mail to list-server@dcsol.com with **
** UNSUBSCRIBE MURPHY-REBEL in the message body on a line by itself **
** Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm **
** To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com **

** To unsubscribe, send e-mail to list-server@dcsol.com with **
** UNSUBSCRIBE MURPHY-REBEL in the message body on a line by itself **
** Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm **
** To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com **


** To unsubscribe, send e-mail to list-server@dcsol.com with **
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All good ideas as usual. Thanks Bob!

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Bob Patterson
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 5:15 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Instrument panel reinforcing



Hi Mike !

Alum. angle all around the hole, right across the top of the
panel, and a couple of cross pieces should do it. The cross pieces
will be handy as supports anyway.

On the handheld - mount it in a plastic pocket that's fastened
to the top left of the panel, to hold it where you can see it and
reach the knobs, as well as keeping the wires out of the way somewhat -
use a headset & PTT on the stick. You'll have enough to keep you busy
on those first flights without the extra aggravation of trying to
hold onto a handheld and talk into it !! ;-)

Also - when installing permanent headset jacks - DO NOT put
them on the panel. The wires are dragging across everything, and
can be a pain if you want out in a hurry (like - upside down in
the water !). The best place we've found to pu the jacks is on the
roof, in the center, just behind the front seats. The rear jacks can
go on the sides above the backs of the seats. It's a little extra
work wiring, but a lifetime of comfort !

.....bobp

---------------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 01:31 PM 12/10/01 -0900, you wrote:

I was sorta expecting to do my first flight with a handheld radio due to
lack of funds, but I was planning to cut Bob's "big square hole" in the
middle section for installation of a standard avionics rack. Then I would
slowly fill the rack with the avionics I ultimately want, one box at a time
as funds become available. While I am waiting I was going to just install
blanks to cover up the gaping hole. Since the panel is structural, perhaps
I need to devise some kind of doublers or angle aluminum pieces to
strengthen the area where the big square hole will be.

Mike Kimball
SR#044

-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Bob Patterson
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2001 7:23 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Instrument panel reinforcing



Hi Murray !

Speaking of installing instruments .....

I guess you know that many builders are mounting the flight
instruments on a 'floating panel' - a separate piece of metal or
Lexan that allows the instruments to mount through oversized holes,
supported by shock mounts. (You don't want to cut a big square hole
out of the panel - it's structural !) For shock mounts, you could
just use long bolts with rubber tube slipped over them ...

Several also mount the switches and breakers on a similar
panel on the left angle section. This one doesn't need shock mounts,
and is often supported by 2 piano hinges - again, to facilitate
working on things from the front instead of crawling around over
that big control tube !! :-) You can run an angle doubler
around the inside of this opening for strength.

These have been mentioned before, but might save you some
time & trouble ...

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 09:54 PM 12/8/01 -0700, you wrote:

To anybody that wants a tip!

THIS IS FOR THOSE OF US THAT CUT THE FIREWALL BACK 3".

Cut 2 tubes 22" long.attach these to the inst. panel.
Follow the angle of these tubes to the firewall, This will give you the
height on the firewall. Mark the centre to line up the gussets left to
right. Now cut .035 connecting plates 6"x8" one for the top, one for the
bottom. These will attach to the firewall gussets. Now cut 2 tubes 6 1/2"
long. These will attach to the 8" side of the plates. Mark appropriate
spacing,drill, debur, chromate and rivet.. I am not riveting in place

until

my instruments are installed.

GOOD LUCK TO ALL

Murray Cherkas
REBEL 505
.


** To unsubscribe, send e-mail to list-server@dcsol.com with

**

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**

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**

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**

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** To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com **


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** To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com **

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