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Don't pick you nose, or proseal...

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:22 pm
by Jason Beall
Hi all,

I've had my first 'Proseal experience'. This stuff is
sticky!

Another Proseal Question...

I cleaned my aluminum really well, wiped it down with
a clean, dry cloth and went at it. No MEK or Acetone.

Mixed it as per instructions on the can. It set up
alright. It's resiliant, but if you pick at it it will
peel up. Is this normal? I practiced on a coulpe
pieces of scrap I riveted together. I think i'm ok,
but i was amazed at how relatively easy it it to
remove.

Any suggestions? Any others have any Proseal
'learnings' to pass on. All in all, it's not the
nightmare people make it out to be.

-Jason

=====
________________________________________________

Jason Beall
Super Rebel No. 131
Aberdeen, Scotland, UK
super_rebel131@yahoo.com

__________________________________________________
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Don't pick you nose, or proseal...

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:22 pm
by klehman
Jason

It is not clear from your message, but you MUST degrease with MEK or
Acetone. If you degrease before final scotch-briting then use a CLEAN
scotch-brite pad.

It is VERY difficult to peel cured pro-seal off. I have completely
destroyed parts trying to remove it. The one exception to this is when I
used old pro-seal and did not stir the activator prior to measuring it
out and using it. Also it can take a week or more to fully cure in my
cool basement.

Is your mixing ratio 1:10 by weight? It is slightly different if trying
to measure by volume but there is probably not a significant difference
in ther end result.

Somebody suggested wearing two latex gloves so you can change the outer
one easilly as you go along.

Ken

Jason Beall wrote:
Hi all,

I've had my first 'Proseal experience'. This stuff is
sticky!

Another Proseal Question...

I cleaned my aluminum really well, wiped it down with
a clean, dry cloth and went at it. No MEK or Acetone.

Mixed it as per instructions on the can. It set up
alright. It's resiliant, but if you pick at it it will
peel up. Is this normal? I practiced on a coulpe
pieces of scrap I riveted together. I think i'm ok,
but i was amazed at how relatively easy it it to
remove.


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Don't pick you nose, or proseal...

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:22 pm
by capete@golden.net
Jason,

We just did the upgrade kit on the wings for the SR and believe me it was
extremely difficult to remove the doubler from the rear spar because of the
proseal. The doubler that was removed was destroyed in the process. YOur
proseal should not be easy to remove. Perhaps if you wait for the curing
process it will set up.

As for riveting the ribs to the main spar, it's been awhile but I seem to
recall pushing the ribs a little to the side to get the riveter in there - then
again we were two people, one holding the rib back and the other riveting.

Peter & Monica
SR003

Jason Beall wrote:
Hi all,

I've had my first 'Proseal experience'. This stuff is
sticky!

Another Proseal Question...

I cleaned my aluminum really well, wiped it down with
a clean, dry cloth and went at it. No MEK or Acetone.

Mixed it as per instructions on the can. It set up
alright. It's resiliant, but if you pick at it it will
peel up. Is this normal? I practiced on a coulpe
pieces of scrap I riveted together. I think i'm ok,
but i was amazed at how relatively easy it it to
remove.

Any suggestions? Any others have any Proseal
'learnings' to pass on. All in all, it's not the
nightmare people make it out to be.

-Jason

=====
________________________________________________

Jason Beall
Super Rebel No. 131
Aberdeen, Scotland, UK
super_rebel131@yahoo.com

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Find a job, post your resume.
http://careers.yahoo.com

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Don't pick you nose, or proseal...

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:22 pm
by Bob Patterson
Hi Jason !

If you want ProSeal to stick, you need a REALLY CLEAN SURFACE.

Years of painful experiences have yielded this method:

Wipe with Polyfiber Metal-Sol, or acetone, or MEK, using a
clean cloth, scuff with ScotchBrite to expose shiny clean metal,
DO NOT WIPE AGAIN WITH SOLVENT, just blow clean, or wipe lightly with
a fresh clean cloth if you must, then IMMEDIATELY apply ProSeal.

Many, many builders have used this method for fuel tanks,
with no problems. ProSeal is very sticky stuff, but ANY trace of
oil will stop it from sticking to metal - even the oil from your
hands !!
Have fun !!
.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
At 11:14 PM 11/8/01 -0800, you wrote:
Hi all,

I've had my first 'Proseal experience'. This stuff is
sticky!

Another Proseal Question...

I cleaned my aluminum really well, wiped it down with
a clean, dry cloth and went at it. No MEK or Acetone.

Mixed it as per instructions on the can. It set up
alright. It's resiliant, but if you pick at it it will
peel up. Is this normal? I practiced on a coulpe
pieces of scrap I riveted together. I think i'm ok,
but i was amazed at how relatively easy it it to
remove.

Any suggestions? Any others have any Proseal
'learnings' to pass on. All in all, it's not the
nightmare people make it out to be.

-Jason

=====
________________________________________________

Jason Beall
Super Rebel No. 131
Aberdeen, Scotland, UK
super_rebel131@yahoo.com

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Find a job, post your resume.
http://careers.yahoo.com

** To unsubscribe, send e-mail to list-server@dcsol.com with **
** UNSUBSCRIBE MURPHY-REBEL in the message body on a line by itself **
** Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm **
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Don't pick you nose, or proseal...

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:22 pm
by Rick Harper
G'day from OZ Jason !

I read time and time again of guys having problems with fuel leaks
etc.....so I was rather cautious when it came time to Pro-Seal the wing
tanks (to say the least).

I extended our tanks by one rib...and we have 240 litres(English spelling)
capacity....
and ABSOLUTELY NO LEAKS !!!

I'm certain that if you can "peel off the set Pro-Seal" ..you have a problem
!
Take off what you have done so far and start again ! (sorry)

1) You HAVE to clean the surfaces with volatile spirits !!!!!!!! (I used a
scotch bright pad, thinners and then MEK (make sure you don't breath the
stuff too much either !)

2) Put LOTS of Pro-Seal on.... on ALL sides...front , back, bottom &
top,....don't hold back ....who's gonna see it anyway !?!?!?!
(I used the two 1 litre kits just to do the two bottoms and sides of the
fuel tanks...and ordered another 1 litre kit just to do the two lids....and
NO LEAKS !

Rick & Wendy Harper
541R Flying :-)
----- Original Message -----
From: Jason Beall <super_rebel131@yahoo.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, 9 November 2001 18:14
Subject: Don't pick you nose, or proseal...

Hi all,

I've had my first 'Proseal experience'. This stuff is
sticky!

Another Proseal Question...

I cleaned my aluminum really well, wiped it down with
a clean, dry cloth and went at it. No MEK or Acetone.

Mixed it as per instructions on the can. It set up
alright. It's resiliant, but if you pick at it it will
peel up. Is this normal? I practiced on a coulpe
pieces of scrap I riveted together. I think i'm ok,
but i was amazed at how relatively easy it it to
remove.

Any suggestions? Any others have any Proseal
'learnings' to pass on. All in all, it's not the
nightmare people make it out to be.

-Jason

=====
________________________________________________

Jason Beall
Super Rebel No. 131
Aberdeen, Scotland, UK
super_rebel131@yahoo.com

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Find a job, post your resume.
http://careers.yahoo.com

** To unsubscribe, send e-mail to list-server@dcsol.com with
**
** UNSUBSCRIBE MURPHY-REBEL in the message body on a line by itself
**
**
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**




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