SR post mods and a question
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:17 pm
Hi all,
Thought I'd pass on a modification thought up by fellow SR builder, Rob
Merdes, here in Fairbanks that I have done on my SR too. He and I were both
pondering the design of the gear box, front post assembly, and front wing
spar carrythrough structure. We could see a great deal of strength in the
gear box area and the carrythrough, but the two structures were tied
together with what appeared to be a much weaker front door post structure.
Soooo, Rob decided to replace the original door post channels with 2 X 1 X
1/8 inch aluminum channel. They fit just right, requiring only a slight
rebending of the door post channel spacer flanges to fit between the thicker
post channels. I liked the idea and did it on mine too. Now, the square
assembly formed by the gear box, door posts and front spar carrythrough is
hell for stout! Combined with the V-brace, and the front spar carrythrough
mod for the 3500 upgrade, there will be a lot more strength leading up to my
firewall which will have a heavier than normal engine up front. Unnecessary
on an already stout airframe - probably. Overkill - most likely. Perhaps
even ill advised if the stronger structure causes stresses intended to be
absorbed in this area to be passed on to other areas. But hey, it's an
experimental airplane, seems like a nice area to strengthen, especially
given my engine choice, and I am the President and CEO of Mike Kimball
Aircraft Manufacturing, Inc.
On another subject, does anyone know any tricks for drilling a hole in the
fuel tanks without leaving a bunch of metal shavings inside. Magnesium
torch? Phaser pistol maybe? I forgot to install a fitting for fuel return
which I'll need for the fuel injection used by the LS-1/LS-6 Chevy V8. Can
the fuel return fitting be on the bottom of the tank instead of the top?
The reason I ask that is that I have an extra fitting in one tank already
because I had already drilled the fuel outlet near the trailing edge of the
root rib before I got the Service Bulletin telling me to move it forward.
To keep the fuel balanced, I still need to drill an extra hole in the other
wing though. I can probably snake a hose connected to my shop vac down
through the fuel filler to try and get shavings out? That plus the finger
strainer and fuel filter might protect me. Whattayathink?
Mike Kimball
SR #044
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Thought I'd pass on a modification thought up by fellow SR builder, Rob
Merdes, here in Fairbanks that I have done on my SR too. He and I were both
pondering the design of the gear box, front post assembly, and front wing
spar carrythrough structure. We could see a great deal of strength in the
gear box area and the carrythrough, but the two structures were tied
together with what appeared to be a much weaker front door post structure.
Soooo, Rob decided to replace the original door post channels with 2 X 1 X
1/8 inch aluminum channel. They fit just right, requiring only a slight
rebending of the door post channel spacer flanges to fit between the thicker
post channels. I liked the idea and did it on mine too. Now, the square
assembly formed by the gear box, door posts and front spar carrythrough is
hell for stout! Combined with the V-brace, and the front spar carrythrough
mod for the 3500 upgrade, there will be a lot more strength leading up to my
firewall which will have a heavier than normal engine up front. Unnecessary
on an already stout airframe - probably. Overkill - most likely. Perhaps
even ill advised if the stronger structure causes stresses intended to be
absorbed in this area to be passed on to other areas. But hey, it's an
experimental airplane, seems like a nice area to strengthen, especially
given my engine choice, and I am the President and CEO of Mike Kimball
Aircraft Manufacturing, Inc.
On another subject, does anyone know any tricks for drilling a hole in the
fuel tanks without leaving a bunch of metal shavings inside. Magnesium
torch? Phaser pistol maybe? I forgot to install a fitting for fuel return
which I'll need for the fuel injection used by the LS-1/LS-6 Chevy V8. Can
the fuel return fitting be on the bottom of the tank instead of the top?
The reason I ask that is that I have an extra fitting in one tank already
because I had already drilled the fuel outlet near the trailing edge of the
root rib before I got the Service Bulletin telling me to move it forward.
To keep the fuel balanced, I still need to drill an extra hole in the other
wing though. I can probably snake a hose connected to my shop vac down
through the fuel filler to try and get shavings out? That plus the finger
strainer and fuel filter might protect me. Whattayathink?
Mike Kimball
SR #044
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------