Building my SR
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:17 pm
Someone on the list is interested in hearing how slowly I am progressing on
the fuselage for my Super Rebel. So here goes...The basic tailcone went
together very easily and quickly. Then the hard part. The cabin. The
"torsion box" where the main gear attaches is one of the first things that
gets built. That part was pretty fun. Sure seems stout. Then I got to the
sills. You have to do lots of fitting, cutting, refitting, etc. The only
tool I had that could cut the thick aluminum was a jigsaw. It worked, but
it was difficult. Incidentally, after I had finished riveting the sills on
with 3/16 rivets I had an opportunity to see the demonstrator and noted that
it was riveted on with 1/8 rivets. I couldn't wait to get back and check
the instructions. Sure enough, it says to use 3/16 rivets. The two topmost
rivets are so close together, the heads actually touch each other. Clearly
designed at one time to use 1/8 rivets. They must have changed their minds
later. If you want two rivets in each flange tab the sills attach to, there
is no choice for the topmost flange tab: When using 3/16 rivets they will
be very close. The other part I don't enjoy too much on the fuselage is
that you have to fabricate a lot of little tabs to connect various bulkheads
and channels together. When fitting the cabin roof I was dismayed to see
that when aligning the front of the sheet with the wing carrythrough the
cabin hung over the edge of the fuselage ribs way more on one side than the
other. You can intentionally tweak the entire cabin structure to get the
skin to align, but then it doesn't lay flat on the upper bulkheads and the
cabin would be out of true. I opted to true up the cabin structure,
measuring up, down, left, right, comparing one side to the other, etc., then
I trimmed the cabin top, taking much more material off one side than the
other. It should also be noted that the cabin had to be clamped in place
when true, then parts were drilled and clecoed. It definitely wasn't very
close to true when allowed to take it's own shape.
I just discovered the other day that the plans set you up for a big problem
later on by having you rivet the sills on without installing the bolts that
hold the lower gear attach brackets in place first. Now there is no way to
install the bolts without drilling a hole in the sill. Oh well. Four water
drain holes for the fuselage.
The plans also have you attaching the tailcone to the cabin at the bottom
only, pretty early on. Don't do that. Leave the tailcone unriveted until
everything on the tailcone and cargo area shear webs are final drilled.
There were lots of occasions where it was convenient to be able to separate
the cabin and tailcone.
I have finished about 14 hours of deburring and am now ready to rivet the
corner wraps in place and the tailcone to the fuselage. I was planning on
riveting the corner wraps from the back to the front, then I would rivet the
last four corner wraps at the same time I rivet the tailcone to the cabin.
Sound OK to you folks?
Sure seems funny that the tailcone is attached so well to the cabin at the
bottom, and so minimally at the top and sides. Apparently the greatest
force trying to separate the tailcone from the cabin is the force the
tailwheel exerts on the structure. The downward force of the horizontal
stabilizer and sidewards force from the rudder when deflected in flight must
be much less or there would be a stronger connection between the cabin and
tailcone at the top and sides. I was actually toying with running some
stringers at the top and sides. Anyone else do anything like that?
Mike Kimball
SR #044
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the fuselage for my Super Rebel. So here goes...The basic tailcone went
together very easily and quickly. Then the hard part. The cabin. The
"torsion box" where the main gear attaches is one of the first things that
gets built. That part was pretty fun. Sure seems stout. Then I got to the
sills. You have to do lots of fitting, cutting, refitting, etc. The only
tool I had that could cut the thick aluminum was a jigsaw. It worked, but
it was difficult. Incidentally, after I had finished riveting the sills on
with 3/16 rivets I had an opportunity to see the demonstrator and noted that
it was riveted on with 1/8 rivets. I couldn't wait to get back and check
the instructions. Sure enough, it says to use 3/16 rivets. The two topmost
rivets are so close together, the heads actually touch each other. Clearly
designed at one time to use 1/8 rivets. They must have changed their minds
later. If you want two rivets in each flange tab the sills attach to, there
is no choice for the topmost flange tab: When using 3/16 rivets they will
be very close. The other part I don't enjoy too much on the fuselage is
that you have to fabricate a lot of little tabs to connect various bulkheads
and channels together. When fitting the cabin roof I was dismayed to see
that when aligning the front of the sheet with the wing carrythrough the
cabin hung over the edge of the fuselage ribs way more on one side than the
other. You can intentionally tweak the entire cabin structure to get the
skin to align, but then it doesn't lay flat on the upper bulkheads and the
cabin would be out of true. I opted to true up the cabin structure,
measuring up, down, left, right, comparing one side to the other, etc., then
I trimmed the cabin top, taking much more material off one side than the
other. It should also be noted that the cabin had to be clamped in place
when true, then parts were drilled and clecoed. It definitely wasn't very
close to true when allowed to take it's own shape.
I just discovered the other day that the plans set you up for a big problem
later on by having you rivet the sills on without installing the bolts that
hold the lower gear attach brackets in place first. Now there is no way to
install the bolts without drilling a hole in the sill. Oh well. Four water
drain holes for the fuselage.
The plans also have you attaching the tailcone to the cabin at the bottom
only, pretty early on. Don't do that. Leave the tailcone unriveted until
everything on the tailcone and cargo area shear webs are final drilled.
There were lots of occasions where it was convenient to be able to separate
the cabin and tailcone.
I have finished about 14 hours of deburring and am now ready to rivet the
corner wraps in place and the tailcone to the fuselage. I was planning on
riveting the corner wraps from the back to the front, then I would rivet the
last four corner wraps at the same time I rivet the tailcone to the cabin.
Sound OK to you folks?
Sure seems funny that the tailcone is attached so well to the cabin at the
bottom, and so minimally at the top and sides. Apparently the greatest
force trying to separate the tailcone from the cabin is the force the
tailwheel exerts on the structure. The downward force of the horizontal
stabilizer and sidewards force from the rudder when deflected in flight must
be much less or there would be a stronger connection between the cabin and
tailcone at the top and sides. I was actually toying with running some
stringers at the top and sides. Anyone else do anything like that?
Mike Kimball
SR #044
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