sealing skins

[John Burke]

Hi,
I'm glad to hear there is an alternative to pro seal. Where is a good place
to buy Sikoflex? I looked through the aircraft spruce catalogue and they don't
list it.

Thanks,
SR121

carol51 wrote:

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Hi from Calgary:

Speaking to the Murphy staff at Arlington I was told that it is a good idea
to pro seal the skins on to prevent leaks.Instead of pro seal which is
rather difficult to work with I used Sikoflex 1A which was also
recommended.Spray painted all sufaces with chromate primer,let dry, then
applied caulking down the rivet line and a bead along the edge, dipped
rivets in caulking which squeezes out under the head to stop any water
getting in. Once all together, spray painted a fine coat to all parts with
primer.
The fusladge feels rock solid.

Food for thought
Good luck to all

REBEL 505

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[LisaFly99]

In a message dated 8/20/01 12:01:17 AM Central Daylight Time,
jburke@socal.rr.com writes:

I'm glad to hear there is an alternative to pro seal. Where is a good place
to buy Sikoflex? I looked through the aircraft spruce catalogue and they
don't
list it.

SIKA -800-933-sika nationwide USA northeast -800-933-7452 midwest
708-924-7900 southern 404-315-0337 western 310-941-0231
those are USA numbers. Most construction specialty supply business can get it.
Most brick yards and business that deal in commercial and heavy construction.

You would only use it on floats and floors not you're tanks.
Phil&Lisa Smith #460R N414D

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[Rick Harper]

G'day from sunny but BLOODY WINDY (at present) Australia :-(

My two cents worth on the "sealing"

I purchased all the back issues of the Rebel Rouser magazine when we started building.
Virtually EVERY issue talked of tanks leaking....ESPECIALLY the "sealed " ones.
Jokes abound, about Rebels & their leaky fuel tanks.......not encouraging :-(

We extended the tanks to 240 lts (one more rib in length)...and have about 1200 miles duration
(don't forget kiddies..."OZ" is virtually equal to the size of the US of A ..(minus Alaska))
(I'll bet THAT starts a few cogs turning) Did you guys know that big 'ol Texas fits into our
Western Australia 4 times ? :-).........and it's about 95% sand !

Anyway....I digress

All we did was CLEAN everything down with thinners and then M.E.K. (boy , my nose agrees
with the government banning that stuff over here :-(

We used the two Proseal tins supplied with the kit to do the bottoms and sides...and bought one more tin JUST to do the two lids........and NO LEAKS !!! :-)

Just gotta do it methodically and find every little nook & cranny where the go go juice might
escape from !

My two cents worth.....(which is currently worth 1 (one) cent US....:-(

ALL YOU GUYS SHOULD BE DOWN HERE VACATIONING !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Rick & Wendy Harper
541R
(Flying...& NOT leaking :-)

----- Original Message -----
From: LisaFly99@aol.com (LisaFly99@aol.com)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Monday, 20 August 2001 21:14
Subject: Re: sealing skins


In a message dated 8/20/01 12:01:17 AM Central Daylight Time,
jburke@socal.rr.com (jburke@socal.rr.com) writes:

I'm glad to hear there is an alternative to pro seal. Where is a good place
to buy Sikoflex? I looked through the aircraft spruce catalogue and they
don't
list it.

SIKA -800-933-sika nationwide USA northeast -800-933-7452 midwest
708-924-7900 southern 404-315-0337 western 310-941-0231
those are USA numbers. Most construction specialty supply business can get it.
Most brick yards and business that deal in commercial and heavy construction.

You would only use it on floats and floors not you're tanks.
Phil&Lisa Smith #460R N414D

[carol51]

Hi from Calgary:

Speaking to the Murphy staff at Arlington I was told that it is a good idea
to pro seal the skins on to prevent leaks.Instead of pro seal which is
rather difficult to work with I used Sikoflex 1A which was also
recommended.Spray painted all sufaces with chromate primer,let dry, then
applied caulking down the rivet line and a bead along the edge, dipped
rivets in caulking which squeezes out under the head to stop any water
getting in. Once all together, spray painted a fine coat to all parts with
primer.
The fusladge feels rock solid.

Food for thought
Good luck to all

REBEL 505




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[Bob Patterson]

Hi John!

A couple of notes of caution here .....

1. Sikaflex is great stuff for building floats - but NOT for fuel
tanks, or anywhere where fuel might run ! Gasoline dissolves it !!

2. The ORIGINAL and PREFERRED method for joining the sheet metal
panels and bulkheads on the airframe is to brush on Polyfiber (Stitts)
Epoxy Primer and fasten them together while it is still wet. This method
gives a strong, corrosion-proof joint that doesn't leak water. If you
also dip the rivets in the Epoxy Primer before pulling them, your
Rebel will NOT leak water. This Epoxy Primer can be ordered from
Murphy directly, and this method is highly recommended.

I suspect you will get a stronger (structurally) joint by
using Polyfiber Epoxy than with Pro-Seal OR SikaFlex, as it is thinner,
and you'll get a better transfer of load....

Some of the Quick Build Super Rebels have had Pro-Seal used
on the joint between the fuselage & cabin area - this is partly because
of the way they are built, and partly because they have to endure a
long salt sea voyage ...... personally, I would stick ( ;-) )
with the original method - brush on the Polyfiber Epoxy Primer and
assemble wet.

(All of the above are purely my personal opinions, of course !) :-)

.......bobp


---------------------------------orig.-----------------------------------
At 10:11 PM 8/19/01 -0700, you wrote:

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Hi,
I'm glad to hear there is an alternative to pro seal. Where is a good place
to buy Sikoflex? I looked through the aircraft spruce catalogue and they don't
list it.

Thanks,
SR121

carol51 wrote:

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Hi from Calgary:

Speaking to the Murphy staff at Arlington I was told that it is a good idea
to pro seal the skins on to prevent leaks.Instead of pro seal which is
rather difficult to work with I used Sikoflex 1A which was also
recommended.Spray painted all sufaces with chromate primer,let dry, then
applied caulking down the rivet line and a bead along the edge, dipped
rivets in caulking which squeezes out under the head to stop any water
getting in. Once all together, spray painted a fine coat to all parts with
primer.
The fusladge feels rock solid.

Food for thought
Good luck to all

REBEL 505

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[carol51]

SR121

You can get Sikoflex at most concrete supply stores. This is a specialized
product not usually sold at the local hardware store. You may also call a
waterproofing company. I did get alot of comments. As was mentrioned , DO
NOT use it in your fuel tank areas.
GOOD LUCK

REBEL 505





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[Rebflyer]

Hi John,
Just to be sure you know, Sikaflex is a geat sealer/adhesive, but it is not a replacement for proseal. Sikaflex is broken down by fuels. Sooo, the obvious is not to use it in the fuel tanks. Hope I didn't bust your bubble.
Of course the best way to tell if someone has worked on a MAM wing somtime in the last 3 years is the proseal still on them:) Curt N97MR Keep at it it's a blast when your done!!



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