Hi
In case this helps anyone I thought I'd mention what I learned today. My Rebel
rudder pedals move less than 2" forward and aft of neutral. I was expecting 3"
based on MAM's rudder deflection numbers and had positioned the pedals
accordingly.
With a moved back firewall, the rudder pedals are only about 14" ahead of the
first rudder cable fairlead and even if the pedals are touching the fuselage
sidewall (actually the flange on the bottom of the sidewall) there is still
about a 6 degree bend in the rudder cable at the first fairlead. It is probably
a good idea to keep the pedals as close to the the sidewall as possible since
the Canadian RAA recommends 3 degrees maximum bend at a fairlead and Tony
Bingelis recommends 5 degrees max. I used a 1" wide fairlead here but I should
have spread the rudder pedals a wee bit wider apart as at the moment I'm showing
about a 10 degree bend.
Mike Jones mentioned recently that MAM is now selling a very cheap mod to
reposition the bottom of the brake master cylinders to the floor. That helps
keep the brake pedals from hitting the firewall in a turn as has been previously
discussed here.
Also I found it best not to push the nicopress sleeve tight against the fairlead
as the books recommend. When squeezed it gets a little longer and will push the
thimble over at an angle. A space of just over 1/16" worked better for me. I did
clip the ends of the fairlead as recommended.
cheers
Ken
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rudder cables - things I learned today!
rudder cables - things I learned today!
Thanks for the info Curt.
Steve Sloan
Steve Sloan
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rudder cables - things I learned today!
Hi all,
Since we're doing things we learned, I guess here's a good place to pass on a little of what I've learned about my Rebel on floats.
First off, I havn't gotten it wet yet.
If I were to change anything, I'd first put a bleed screw in each end of the cylinders to ease the ridding of the air in the system without a mess on the inside of the floats. Besides the fittings on the front cylinder are tough to get to.
I decided to try a semi high speed taxi to raise the nose a little to help with the landing picture. So, I acclerated to 40 mph, and as I started to pull on the stick,and pulling back on the throttle, I kept adding back pressure and when the nose came up, i
t just went flying anyway. I got about a foot off the ground and then it settled back. It felt like alot of back pressure to get the nose to come up, but I think now it must be about right with the change in the main location.
With 30 gal of fuel and no wind 78deg just me in the aircraft, about a 325 ft roll. Warp drive turning 2625rpm. Man, what a aircraft! I had to pull the throttle back a long way to stay off the red line in cruise, giving me 95mph indicated. grnd speed seemed
to verify that, indicating about 86kts both ways. If the water performance is more than just spectacular I might back the prop back a deg to get a little better cruise. Stall speed power off up from 43 to 46 mph indicated. Didn't try the power on yet.
Question for Wayne or maybe Brian. A good way to calculate the best angle and the best rate of climb? FAA wants those numbers and I can't find my flight test books at the moment. (Think I loaned them) Maybe Wayne can remember from previous aircraft, like Ho
wards.
Gear up gives about 3 or 4 mph.
Boy is there a whole bunch of new noises and vibrations to get used to! Three landings and I had to add two wavy washers to stop the shimmy. A longez friend says you want about 3lbs of pressure to deflect the nose wheel. Seems to work good
I sit so high I think I can see my house before I take off! I don't think I'll ever want to go over 600agl again! Looking forward to getting wet! KEEP AT IT IT'S WORTH IT! Curt N97MR
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Since we're doing things we learned, I guess here's a good place to pass on a little of what I've learned about my Rebel on floats.
First off, I havn't gotten it wet yet.
If I were to change anything, I'd first put a bleed screw in each end of the cylinders to ease the ridding of the air in the system without a mess on the inside of the floats. Besides the fittings on the front cylinder are tough to get to.
I decided to try a semi high speed taxi to raise the nose a little to help with the landing picture. So, I acclerated to 40 mph, and as I started to pull on the stick,and pulling back on the throttle, I kept adding back pressure and when the nose came up, i
t just went flying anyway. I got about a foot off the ground and then it settled back. It felt like alot of back pressure to get the nose to come up, but I think now it must be about right with the change in the main location.
With 30 gal of fuel and no wind 78deg just me in the aircraft, about a 325 ft roll. Warp drive turning 2625rpm. Man, what a aircraft! I had to pull the throttle back a long way to stay off the red line in cruise, giving me 95mph indicated. grnd speed seemed
to verify that, indicating about 86kts both ways. If the water performance is more than just spectacular I might back the prop back a deg to get a little better cruise. Stall speed power off up from 43 to 46 mph indicated. Didn't try the power on yet.
Question for Wayne or maybe Brian. A good way to calculate the best angle and the best rate of climb? FAA wants those numbers and I can't find my flight test books at the moment. (Think I loaned them) Maybe Wayne can remember from previous aircraft, like Ho
wards.
Gear up gives about 3 or 4 mph.
Boy is there a whole bunch of new noises and vibrations to get used to! Three landings and I had to add two wavy washers to stop the shimmy. A longez friend says you want about 3lbs of pressure to deflect the nose wheel. Seems to work good
I sit so high I think I can see my house before I take off! I don't think I'll ever want to go over 600agl again! Looking forward to getting wet! KEEP AT IT IT'S WORTH IT! Curt N97MR
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rudder cables - things I learned today!
Curt,
Could you let us know your empty wt CG and empty weight with the floats.
Thanks
Steve Sloan
Could you let us know your empty wt CG and empty weight with the floats.
Thanks
Steve Sloan
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rudder cables - things I learned today!
Hey Steve,
I ended at 1184 empty with a cg of 10.9, forward from 11.4. Curt N97MR
I ended at 1184 empty with a cg of 10.9, forward from 11.4. Curt N97MR
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rudder cables - things I learned today!
Congratulations, Curt, on getting it flying. Looking forward to more reports
from you on how it is on the water, and any more adjustments you might be
making. I was away salmon fishing in the Queen Charlottes and just got back,
so will be back at it with mine. I think I should have it ready to fly
within a week now. Please let me know if there is anything I should watch
out for in my test flight.
-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Rebflyer@aol.com
Sent: August 13, 2001 8:00 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: rudder cables - things I learned today!
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Hi all,
Since we're doing things we learned, I guess here's a good place to pass
on a little of what I've learned about my Rebel on floats.
First off, I havn't gotten it wet yet.
If I were to change anything, I'd first put a bleed screw in each end of
the cylinders to ease the ridding of the air in the system without a mess on
the inside of the floats. Besides the fittings on the front cylinder are
tough to get to.
I decided to try a semi high speed taxi to raise the nose a little to help
with the landing picture. So, I acclerated to 40 mph, and as I started to
pull on the stick,and pulling back on the throttle, I kept adding back
pressure and when the nose came up, i
t just went flying anyway. I got about a foot off the ground and then it
settled back. It felt like alot of back pressure to get the nose to come up,
but I think now it must be about right with the change in the main location.
With 30 gal of fuel and no wind 78deg just me in the aircraft, about a 325
ft roll. Warp drive turning 2625rpm. Man, what a aircraft! I had to pull the
throttle back a long way to stay off the red line in cruise, giving me 95mph
indicated. grnd speed seemed
to verify that, indicating about 86kts both ways. If the water performance
is more than just spectacular I might back the prop back a deg to get a
little better cruise. Stall speed power off up from 43 to 46 mph indicated.
Didn't try the power on yet.
Question for Wayne or maybe Brian. A good way to calculate the best angle
and the best rate of climb? FAA wants those numbers and I can't find my
flight test books at the moment. (Think I loaned them) Maybe Wayne can
remember from previous aircraft, like Ho
wards.
Gear up gives about 3 or 4 mph.
Boy is there a whole bunch of new noises and vibrations to get used to!
Three landings and I had to add two wavy washers to stop the shimmy. A
longez friend says you want about 3lbs of pressure to deflect the nose
wheel. Seems to work good
I sit so high I think I can see my house before I take off! I don't think
I'll ever want to go over 600agl again! Looking forward to getting wet! KEEP
AT IT IT'S WORTH IT! Curt N97MR
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from you on how it is on the water, and any more adjustments you might be
making. I was away salmon fishing in the Queen Charlottes and just got back,
so will be back at it with mine. I think I should have it ready to fly
within a week now. Please let me know if there is anything I should watch
out for in my test flight.
-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Rebflyer@aol.com
Sent: August 13, 2001 8:00 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: rudder cables - things I learned today!
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/default.htm
username: rebel password: builder
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
Hi all,
Since we're doing things we learned, I guess here's a good place to pass
on a little of what I've learned about my Rebel on floats.
First off, I havn't gotten it wet yet.
If I were to change anything, I'd first put a bleed screw in each end of
the cylinders to ease the ridding of the air in the system without a mess on
the inside of the floats. Besides the fittings on the front cylinder are
tough to get to.
I decided to try a semi high speed taxi to raise the nose a little to help
with the landing picture. So, I acclerated to 40 mph, and as I started to
pull on the stick,and pulling back on the throttle, I kept adding back
pressure and when the nose came up, i
t just went flying anyway. I got about a foot off the ground and then it
settled back. It felt like alot of back pressure to get the nose to come up,
but I think now it must be about right with the change in the main location.
With 30 gal of fuel and no wind 78deg just me in the aircraft, about a 325
ft roll. Warp drive turning 2625rpm. Man, what a aircraft! I had to pull the
throttle back a long way to stay off the red line in cruise, giving me 95mph
indicated. grnd speed seemed
to verify that, indicating about 86kts both ways. If the water performance
is more than just spectacular I might back the prop back a deg to get a
little better cruise. Stall speed power off up from 43 to 46 mph indicated.
Didn't try the power on yet.
Question for Wayne or maybe Brian. A good way to calculate the best angle
and the best rate of climb? FAA wants those numbers and I can't find my
flight test books at the moment. (Think I loaned them) Maybe Wayne can
remember from previous aircraft, like Ho
wards.
Gear up gives about 3 or 4 mph.
Boy is there a whole bunch of new noises and vibrations to get used to!
Three landings and I had to add two wavy washers to stop the shimmy. A
longez friend says you want about 3lbs of pressure to deflect the nose
wheel. Seems to work good
I sit so high I think I can see my house before I take off! I don't think
I'll ever want to go over 600agl again! Looking forward to getting wet! KEEP
AT IT IT'S WORTH IT! Curt N97MR
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