The Murphy Builders Site

Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:03 pm**

BOB P.
Awhile back you where changing you're tail spring. I might have found an
option.
Chevy Luminas.Pontiac Grandprix and Buick Regals all have fiberglass leaf
springs in the rear. I haven't gone to the bone yard yet, But a friend said
with a little bandsaw work they would make a nice tailspring. Food for
thought.
Phil&Lisa Smith #460R N414D

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:16 pm**

Thanks for the tip, Phil ! Might be interesting to follow
up for main gear too ....

I'm alright for now - thanks to Curt, who gave me his old
fiberglass spring, as he has switched to metal.

......bobp

---------------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
At 08:31 PM 8/7/01 EDT, you wrote:

BOB P.
Awhile back you where changing you're tail spring. I might have found an
option.
Chevy Luminas.Pontiac Grandprix and Buick Regals all have fiberglass leaf
springs in the rear. I haven't gone to the bone yard yet, But a friend said
with a little bandsaw work they would make a nice tailspring. Food for
thought.
Phil&Lisa Smith #460R N414D
<HTML>BOB P.
 Awhile back you where changing you're tail spring. I might have found an
 option.
 Chevy Luminas.Pontiac Grandprix and Buick Regals all have fiberglass leaf
 springs in the rear. I haven't gone to the bone yard yet, But a friend

said

with a little bandsaw work they would make a nice tailspring. Food for
 thought.
 Phil&Lisa Smith #460R  N414D</HTML>

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:16 pm**

Just thought I'd add my 2 cents worth on the tailspring issue....

I went to the local trailer manufacturer and bought "half elliptical" trailer springs ...
(they're just HALF of a normal trailer spring)
I built up the whole package using three pieces.....one is about 8 " long...the next is
about 12" long...and the one which goes all the way from the plane to the tailwheel itself
is about 16" long ...(the tailwheel is only bolted to ONE spring) this allows the other springs
to move but still support the "one working spring".....
It's a real soft ride and it flexes sideways "a bit" to take the stress out of the lower tail wrap
(which is the area that has given some problems I believe)

Hope this helps some !

Rick & Wendy Harper
541R.....
(PS...Just finished my 40 hour "proving period".....Australia here we come !!! :-)

----- Original Message -----
From: LisaFly99@aol.com (LisaFly99@aol.com)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Wednesday, 8 August 2001 10:31
Subject: Re: tailspring

BOB P.
Awhile back you where changing you're tail spring. I might have found an
option.
Chevy Luminas.Pontiac Grandprix and Buick Regals all have fiberglass leaf
springs in the rear. I haven't gone to the bone yard yet, But a friend said
with a little bandsaw work they would make a nice tailspring. Food for
thought.
Phil&Lisa Smith #460R N414D

Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:16 pm**

Hi Rick

Do you know how thick your spring spring pieces are?
I have looked at some that are 0.26" thick by 1.75" wide but they seem very
stiff even if I only use two leaves (as well as Heavy).

thanks
Ken

Just thought I'd add my 2 cents worth on the tailspring issue....

I went to the local trailer manufacturer and bought "half elliptical" trailer springs ...
(they're just HALF of a normal trailer spring)
I built up the whole package using three pieces.....one is about 8 " long...the next is
about 12" long...and the one which goes all the way from the plane to the tailwheel itself
is about 16" long ...(the tailwheel is only bolted to ONE spring) this allows the other springs
to move but still support the "one working spring".....
It's a real soft ride and it flexes sideways "a bit" to take the stress out of the lower tail wrap
(which is the area that has given some problems I believe)

Hope this helps some !

Rick & Wendy Harper
541R.....

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:16 pm**

G'day Ken !

username: rebel password: builder
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

Hi Rick

Do you know how thick your spring spring pieces are?

ABOUT 1/4" thick and 2" wide at a guess (the plane is in a hangar MILES away
from home.....It's a REAL outing to go flying :-(

I have looked at some that are 0.26" thick by 1.75" wide but they seem

very

stiff even if I only use two leaves (as well as Heavy).

I'VE COME TO THE REALISATION THAT MOST REBELS HAVE A NOSE
HEAVY PROBLEM MORE SO THAN A TAILHEAVY ONE......SO THE THREE STEEL SPRINGS
HELP !!!

MINE FEEL GREAT !

Rick

thanks
Ken

Just thought I'd add my 2 cents worth on the tailspring issue....

I went to the local trailer manufacturer and bought "half elliptical"

trailer springs ...

(they're just HALF of a normal trailer spring)
I built up the whole package using three pieces.....one is about 8 "

long...the next is

about 12" long...and the one which goes all the way from the plane to the

tailwheel itself

is about 16" long ...(the tailwheel is only bolted to ONE spring) this

allows the other springs

to move but still support the "one working spring".....
It's a real soft ride and it flexes sideways "a bit" to take the stress

out of the lower tail wrap

(which is the area that has given some problems I believe)

Hope this helps some !

Rick & Wendy Harper
541R.....

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 8:53 am**

Sorry, I had to resend this because of (my ?) error in the address. I
will take the opportunity to add something. After all my hours, I was
shown something I never knew, when handpushing the aircraft back, grab
the rudder (easy to do on the Rebel) and push it so that the tailwheel
unlocks. It takes more strain off the tail area. It works for any
taildragger with lockable tailwheel. On the Warp Drive prop, each time I
see those emails, I rush over with my magnifying glass and have a look
at my 3-bladed 72" prop. No sign of cracks on the Subaru Legacy 2.2
liter engine at only 140 hours. here comes the original message. Geert
----- Original Message -----
From: storchpilot
To: Rebel contact Web server
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 11:16 AM
Subject: tailspring

Hi Rick, I just repaired my whole empennage area for US $ 3500. It had
more cracks, dents and what have you. However this was brought about
because of the original kits came out with that very thin tailcone skin
and never a word from MAM to those first 100 builders. The re-enforcing
is of course a must, but nothing was said about that .025 skin, on the
first group of kits.After all they belong to the "keep at it, you'll
love it, Club". I did go back to the composite material tailwheel arm,
since I was told: "they are still the best, even though you can't buy
them any more" or words to that effect. I hope this is true? In any
case, my empennage and tailcone area will now pass the Russian tank
test. I shudder to think what could have happened if I had had a failure
back there at a critical point on take-off or flight. Another point not
mentioned is to check that your tailwheel (assuming it was modified from
the original factory non-lockable item) WILL UNLOCK obviously this is
done with the tail jacked up. Especially if you have a weak area back
there, it must unlock without any effort. If it does not, it will put a
horrible strain on the tailcone. Parts to overhaul the lockable
tailwheel are easily available and not expensive. Anyway, my 2 cents
worth. Keep smiling, Geert Frank

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 8:53 am**

Hi Geert !

Your Warp Drive should last a LOOOOONG time ! No problems at all
reported with any on re-drives .... only direct drive on higher
compression engines seem to have cracks.

Glad to hear you're back in the air again ! :-)

.....bobp

----------------------------orig.-------------------
On Sunday 25 January 2004 04:21 pm, you wrote:

Sorry, I had to resend this because of (my ?) error in the address. I
will take the opportunity to add something. After all my hours, I was
shown something I never knew, when handpushing the aircraft back, grab
the rudder (easy to do on the Rebel) and push it so that the tailwheel
unlocks. It takes more strain off the tail area. It works for any
taildragger with lockable tailwheel. On the Warp Drive prop, each time I
see those emails, I rush over with my magnifying glass and have a look
at my 3-bladed 72" prop. No sign of cracks on the Subaru Legacy 2.2
liter engine at only 140 hours. here comes the original message. Geert
----- Original Message -----
From: storchpilot
To: Rebel contact Web server
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 11:16 AM
Subject: tailspring

Hi Rick, I just repaired my whole empennage area for US $ 3500. It had
more cracks, dents and what have you. However this was brought about
because of the original kits came out with that very thin tailcone skin
and never a word from MAM to those first 100 builders. The re-enforcing
is of course a must, but nothing was said about that .025 skin, on the
first group of kits.After all they belong to the "keep at it, you'll
love it, Club". I did go back to the composite material tailwheel arm,
since I was told: "they are still the best, even though you can't buy
them any more" or words to that effect. I hope this is true? In any
case, my empennage and tailcone area will now pass the Russian tank
test. I shudder to think what could have happened if I had had a failure
back there at a critical point on take-off or flight. Another point not
mentioned is to check that your tailwheel (assuming it was modified from
the original factory non-lockable item) WILL UNLOCK obviously this is
done with the tail jacked up. Especially if you have a weak area back
there, it must unlock without any effort. If it does not, it will put a
horrible strain on the tailcone. Parts to overhaul the lockable
tailwheel are easily available and not expensive. Anyway, my 2 cents
worth. Keep smiling, Geert Frank

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