Page 1 of 2

Paint prep

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:03 pm
by Mike Kimball
It won't be long before I will be finished with the basic airframe
construction. I want to paint all the pieces separately before assembly. I
don't know anything about painting an airplane, but after seeing an average
price of ~$8,000 US to have someone else do it, I guess I'm gonna have to
learn. Here is what I plan to do:

1. Fork out the bucks (~$900) for a Citation HVLP paint sprayer/air
breather combo

2. Sandpaper and maybe small Dremel Rotary tools to remove bits of proseal
and chromate around rivets and seams, and to grind down the "proud" rivet
mandrels from the Avex-like rivets MAM issued with some kits. (By the time
I heard that MAM would replace them with true Avex rivets, I was so far
along that I didn't bother.)

3. Aircraft quality, light-weight filler for the cabin to tailcone
corner-wrap transitions and any other areas that I want to smooth out,
sanded smooth with sandpaper.

4. Entire part(s) cleaned with Acetone.

5. Entire part(s) Scotch-brited, then wiped clean with lint free cloth.

6. Primer, paint, then clear-coat as recommended by the manufacturer of
whatever paint I decide to use. It'll be all white of some sort. I'll
worry about trim/stripes and registration numbers later. No way am I going
to try and tackle trim and stuff masked and painted separately from the base
paint! That's for experts.

Questions:

1. Am I on the right track?

2. Can I primer right over the top of chromate where it sticks out past
overlapping skins and stuff?

3. My manual says somewhere that I shouldn't clean with solvent after
scotch-briting. So I don't. Hence, step 4, "...wipe clean with lint free
cloth".

4. Any paint manufacturer/type recommendations for the rank amateur? I've
heard that urethane type paint is harder to paint and is more toxic.

5. If there is any significant time between when I prep a part and when I
paint it, should I do anything more than just wipe clean again with a dry
cloth?

6. If I paint some parts one year and other parts another year, will the
painted parts match in color? I know what happens if you buy paint from a
car dealer for your car. It never quite matches, even if you used the paint
code on the car's ID and your car isn't very old.

Also, I was planning on sending my instrument panel to someplace like
Aircraft Spruce and let them fill it up with flight instruments and basic
electrical stuff like circuit breakers and such, unless I find out that the
labor cost for that is too high. Anybody have any good recommendations for
someone to do that? I won't be able to afford any avionics at first, so
that will have to wait for later too. (I will probably do first flight with
my hand-held radio at best.) Is there some kind of aircraft standardized
avionics racks/rails that I can have installed to make avionics installation
easier later on?

Mike Kimball
SR #044




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Paint prep

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:03 pm
by klehman
Mike Kimball wrote:
1. Fork out the bucks (~$900) for a Citation HVLP paint sprayer/air
breather combo
The hvlp will almost save enough paint to pay for itself from what I've seen. It
seems easier to avoid runs with the hvlp and there are no problems with water in
the air supply. I just noticed that Princess Auto advertises a $150.cdn hvlp
sprayer (c/w turbine). Haven't seen it but that is certainly cheap.
2. Can I primer right over the top of chromate where it sticks out past
overlapping skins and stuff?
Personally I'm not sure I cleaned meticulously enough to do that. Also your film
thickness will probably not be thick enough to hide any brush marks.
3. My manual says somewhere that I shouldn't clean with solvent after
scotch-briting. So I don't. Hence, step 4, "...wipe clean with lint free
cloth".
Thats OK for inside and for pro-seal but Problem is now you have grit on the
surface. I like the metal prep to etch and clean or otherwise I would at least
clean with acetone again or with a very damp tack rag.
4. Any paint manufacturer/type recommendations for the rank amateur? I've
heard that urethane type paint is harder to paint and is more toxic.
And very very difficult to repair. I am now leaning towards a paint without
isocyanates which removes the absolute necessity of using a fresh air mask.
Perhaps somewhat reduced durability and shine if not hangered but at least
scratches and such will be repairable.
5. If there is any significant time between when I prep a part and when I
paint it, should I do anything more than just wipe clean again with a dry
cloth?
Follow the directions. Most seem to recommend recoating within about 24 hours or
else to sand to roughen the surface.
6. If I paint some parts one year and other parts another year, will the
painted parts match in color? I know what happens if you buy paint from a
car dealer for your car. It never quite matches, even if you used the paint
code on the car's ID and your car isn't very old.
It helps if you don't store it out in the sun like a car. Buy all the paint at
the same time from the same batch.
Mike Kimball
SR #044


-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Paint prep

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:03 pm
by Bob Patterson
Hi Mike !

Just a few extra suggestions .....

A very common prep method is to use red Scotchbrite pads on
the surface after wetting it with Alumiprep, scrubbing wet, then flushing
thoroughly with water. The surface is then ready for paint when dry.
Alumiprep is a mild etching liquid that eats into surface corrosion
and oil film, baring the metal. You must flush well to remove all of
it !

There's no problem painting over the Polyfibre Epoxy primer
that is used to bond parts together, as well as dip rivets - it will
provide a good base. It was (and may still be) available in white,
and at least one Rebel builder has painted the entire outside of the
airplane with it. This provided an acceptable finish paint, AND a
base primer for other paint, if desired ...

I have used (and plan to use again) an 'epoxy enamel' paint
from R-M, called UNA. R-M is a worldwide name in automotive paints,
and UNA is their middle grade - better than straight enamel, and
easier to work with than the expensive stuff. Any good auto shop
can get the stuff for you (about $700 - $800 to paint a Rebel ....)

If you want really top grade paint, R-M have one called
Base Clear - with a clear coat. I think it is urethane ...

Modern paints seem to hold their colours quite well - if
you pick more standard colours..... FWIW, I think Bill Piper was
very sharp when he chose yellow for the Cub ! I've had a couple of
white airplanes before, and vow I'll never have another ! The reasons
for yellow are - high visibility, doesn't show dirt easily, and
has just enough colour to melt the frost and ice we get here, without
getting too hot in summer. I use Red trim for high visibility, too.

There are thousands of shades of WHITE !! It can be a real
challenge to match one !

You might want to call Murphy for the name of the Avionics
shop they use - I think it's Airtronics...... they give a discount
to Murphy customers, too.

......bobp

PS
One paint to AVOID is "System 3 Water-based Urethane" - we've
seen FIVE Rebels that used it have large sections fall off in 6 months
or less !! Other parts of it couldn't be removed with a chisel !
Seems the primer was very inconsistent .... Also, the company
was totally unsupportive to the builders.

--------------------------------orig.------------------------------------
At 10:57 AM 7/25/01 -0800, you wrote:
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The list archives are located at:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/default.htm
username: rebel password: builder
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
It won't be long before I will be finished with the basic airframe
construction. I want to paint all the pieces separately before assembly. I
don't know anything about painting an airplane, but after seeing an average
price of ~$8,000 US to have someone else do it, I guess I'm gonna have to
learn. Here is what I plan to do:

1. Fork out the bucks (~$900) for a Citation HVLP paint sprayer/air
breather combo

2. Sandpaper and maybe small Dremel Rotary tools to remove bits of proseal
and chromate around rivets and seams, and to grind down the "proud" rivet
mandrels from the Avex-like rivets MAM issued with some kits. (By the time
I heard that MAM would replace them with true Avex rivets, I was so far
along that I didn't bother.)

3. Aircraft quality, light-weight filler for the cabin to tailcone
corner-wrap transitions and any other areas that I want to smooth out,
sanded smooth with sandpaper.

4. Entire part(s) cleaned with Acetone.

5. Entire part(s) Scotch-brited, then wiped clean with lint free cloth.

6. Primer, paint, then clear-coat as recommended by the manufacturer of
whatever paint I decide to use. It'll be all white of some sort. I'll
worry about trim/stripes and registration numbers later. No way am I going
to try and tackle trim and stuff masked and painted separately from the base
paint! That's for experts.

Questions:

1. Am I on the right track?

2. Can I primer right over the top of chromate where it sticks out past
overlapping skins and stuff?

3. My manual says somewhere that I shouldn't clean with solvent after
scotch-briting. So I don't. Hence, step 4, "...wipe clean with lint free
cloth".

4. Any paint manufacturer/type recommendations for the rank amateur? I've
heard that urethane type paint is harder to paint and is more toxic.

5. If there is any significant time between when I prep a part and when I
paint it, should I do anything more than just wipe clean again with a dry
cloth?

6. If I paint some parts one year and other parts another year, will the
painted parts match in color? I know what happens if you buy paint from a
car dealer for your car. It never quite matches, even if you used the paint
code on the car's ID and your car isn't very old.

Also, I was planning on sending my instrument panel to someplace like
Aircraft Spruce and let them fill it up with flight instruments and basic
electrical stuff like circuit breakers and such, unless I find out that the
labor cost for that is too high. Anybody have any good recommendations for
someone to do that? I won't be able to afford any avionics at first, so
that will have to wait for later too. (I will probably do first flight with
my hand-held radio at best.) Is there some kind of aircraft standardized
avionics racks/rails that I can have installed to make avionics installation
easier later on?

Mike Kimball
SR #044

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
You have received this message because you have subscribed to the
murphy-rebel mailing list.
To unsubscribe from this list, send an e-mail to: list-server@dcsol.com
with "unsubscribe murphy-rebel" in the body of the message.
For assistance contact mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*






-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Paint prep

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:03 pm
by klehman
I might have mentioned this before but I've been advised by people in the
industry that clearcoats are great for shiny relatively short lived automobiles
but will always degrade faster in sunlight than a solid coloured paint. Why add
the weight?

Ken
If you want really top grade paint, R-M have one called
Base Clear - with a clear coat. I think it is urethane ...


-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Paint prep

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:03 pm
by Bob Patterson
I agree, Ken ! The epoxy enamel gives a nice shine, and is
pretty durable. The clear coat is just 'window dressing' - ok for
RV's , I guess. ;-)

....bobp

---------------------------------------orig.-----------------------------
At 04:52 PM 8/2/01 -0400, you wrote:
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The list archives are located at:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/default.htm
username: rebel password: builder
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
I might have mentioned this before but I've been advised by people in the
industry that clearcoats are great for shiny relatively short lived automobiles
but will always degrade faster in sunlight than a solid coloured paint. Why add
the weight?

Ken
If you want really top grade paint, R-M have one called
Base Clear - with a clear coat. I think it is urethane ...
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
You have received this message because you have subscribed to the
murphy-rebel mailing list.
To unsubscribe from this list, send an e-mail to: list-server@dcsol.com
with "unsubscribe murphy-rebel" in the body of the message.
For assistance contact mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*






-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Paint prep

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:03 pm
by Peter Cowan/Lexi Cameron
Hello Bob,
Is there any more data available on the water base eurethane subject?
I got a deal on 6 gallons of Diamond brand that I was planning to use.
You comments made it sound like there may have been a primer problem. If
some stuck very well, maybe that problem could be identified and corrected.
Do you have a contact that I could talk to?
Thanks
Peter.




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Paint prep

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:03 pm
by Bob Patterson
Hi Peter !

As far as I know, nobody has done anything further with the
water-based urethane paints - 'once burned' ....

At the moment, it looks like another one of those 'seemed like
a great idea, but just didn't work out' things.

Sorry, I don't have a number for System Three - they might even
be out of business ! The primer was a major problem, but the white
and colours also had peeling and flaking problems. One builder in Quebec
complained to the manufacturer, and their response was "No, we won't replace
product, and we have no plans to change our formulas. You're still unhappy ?
So sue us .." !!! They were still advertising last year, but, with
no fixes forthcoming, I doubt anyone will be buying.

It may be that the brand you've got will work just great - this
was specifically System 3. Maybe you could try some sample pieces and
leave them outside for a few months ....

We hear rumours that there <are> some happy System 3 users.

Sorry I can't give you more hope - only actual testing will
tell. Although, perhaps Diamond can give you the numbers for some
happy customers - something else we heard that System 3 refused to do !
I asked a local auto body shop that also paints aircraft, and they said
they gave up on w-b-u paints a few years ago, and would refuse to do a job
if the customer supplied it !
.......bobp

-------------------------------orig.----------------------------------------
At 02:29 PM 8/3/01 -0400, you wrote:
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The list archives are located at:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/default.htm
username: rebel password: builder
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
Hello Bob,
Is there any more data available on the water base eurethane subject?
I got a deal on 6 gallons of Diamond brand that I was planning to use.
You comments made it sound like there may have been a primer problem. If
some stuck very well, maybe that problem could be identified and corrected.
Do you have a contact that I could talk to?
Thanks
Peter.

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
You have received this message because you have subscribed to the
murphy-rebel mailing list.
To unsubscribe from this list, send an e-mail to: list-server@dcsol.com
with "unsubscribe murphy-rebel" in the body of the message.
For assistance contact mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*






-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Paint prep

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:03 pm
by Brian H. Cross
Hi Peter

As Bob will confirm, the Rebel here painted with System 3 is the worst paint
job I have ever seen on an airplane, car, truck - you name it. Too bad
because it was applied to an otherwise beautiful Rebel.

Brian #328R

-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Bob Patterson
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2001 11:19 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Paint prep


*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The list archives are located at:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/default.htm
username: rebel password: builder
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

Hi Peter !

As far as I know, nobody has done anything further with the
water-based urethane paints - 'once burned' ....

At the moment, it looks like another one of those 'seemed like
a great idea, but just didn't work out' things.

Sorry, I don't have a number for System Three - they might even
be out of business ! The primer was a major problem, but the white
and colours also had peeling and flaking problems. One builder in Quebec
complained to the manufacturer, and their response was "No, we won't replace
product, and we have no plans to change our formulas. You're still unhappy
?
So sue us .." !!! They were still advertising last year, but, with
no fixes forthcoming, I doubt anyone will be buying.

It may be that the brand you've got will work just great - this
was specifically System 3. Maybe you could try some sample pieces and
leave them outside for a few months ....

We hear rumours that there <are> some happy System 3 users.

Sorry I can't give you more hope - only actual testing will
tell. Although, perhaps Diamond can give you the numbers for some
happy customers - something else we heard that System 3 refused to do !
I asked a local auto body shop that also paints aircraft, and they said
they gave up on w-b-u paints a few years ago, and would refuse to do a job
if the customer supplied it !
.......bobp

-------------------------------orig.----------------------------------------
At 02:29 PM 8/3/01 -0400, you wrote:
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The list archives are located at:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/default.htm
username: rebel password: builder
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
Hello Bob,
Is there any more data available on the water base eurethane subject?
I got a deal on 6 gallons of Diamond brand that I was planning to use.
You comments made it sound like there may have been a primer problem. If
some stuck very well, maybe that problem could be identified and corrected.
Do you have a contact that I could talk to?
Thanks
Peter.

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
You have received this message because you have subscribed to the
murphy-rebel mailing list.
To unsubscribe from this list, send an e-mail to: list-server@dcsol.com
with "unsubscribe murphy-rebel" in the body of the message.
For assistance contact mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*




*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
You have received this message because you have subscribed to the
murphy-rebel mailing list.
To unsubscribe from this list, send an e-mail to: list-server@dcsol.com
with "unsubscribe murphy-rebel" in the body of the message.
For assistance contact mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Paint prep

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:34 pm
by Gary
I have a question or two about priming the Rebel. First in reading the
letters about Paint Prep and excepted method for preparing the parts is as
follows from Bob P:
"A very common prep method is to use red Scotchbrite pads on
the surface after wetting it with Alumiprep, scrubbing wet, then flushing
thoroughly with water. The surface is then ready for paint when dry.
Alumiprep is a mild etching liquid that eats into surface corrosion
and oil film, baring the metal. You must flush well to remove all of
it !"
1.If the above is do can I prime with Polyfibre Epoxy primer right after the
parts are dry?
2.Is it better to prime before the parts are drilled and debur or
afterwards? I would still prime the mating surfaces before riveting.
3.Because winter is coming and it is getting cold what is the lows temp that
this process could be done at.
4. Because of weight is it better to just prime the mating surfaces and have
the plane coated with "CorrosionX" when completed?

Gary M
Through Adversity To The Stars
712R




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Paint prep

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:34 pm
by Murray Cherkas
hello Gary:

I drilled, deburred then alumipreped, rinsed well then allodined then rinsed
then primed(zinc chromate primer)before putting parts together. Before
riveting I again wetted mating surfaces dipped rivets before riveting.This
was done on the inside surfaces. Inside the fuselodge I then painted a light
grey.Yes this adds a few pounds of weight.I felt that this was a very good
way to corrosion proof all closed in surfaces. THIS IS A LOT OF WORK AND
TAKES A LOT OF TIME. If doing it over again I would just wet mating surfaces
and when altogether use corrosion X or some other corrosion inhibitor.

Good luck

Murray Cherkas
REBEL 505





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Paint prep

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:34 pm
by klehman
Hi Gary
1. Yes but FWIW I don't use alumniprep when building. Scotchbrite and
acetone as recommended by MAM seemed completely adequate while
rivetting. Alumniprep is great on large exterior surfaces before priming
and finish painting though.
2. I think afterward just before riveting but only in the joints.
Drilling will scratch things and the joint should be assembled wet if
possible anyway. I have heard of guys priming all the aluminum sheet
before drilling but that seems silly to me especially on the exterior of
6061. Then you will have to prime all the rivet heads before painting
anyway. If you prime the entire surface with polyfibre then manufacurers
will recommend that you use compatible (same manufacturer) polyfiber
paint which is rather expensive. Why commit to that choice now? In
addition by the time you paint it, the primer will need extensive
scuffing and realistically an additional coat of primer anyway so there
is usually little point in priming now. You will just be adding more
later to prep for paint and cover the scratches.
3. I have used primer for joints down to almost freezing temps but don't
know what the manufacturer recommends.
4. One can make a case for some corrosion-x anyway even if it was primed
as there are lots of places for moisture to collect. Inside gear tubes,
cage tubes, all those crevices and joints that are not completely full
of polyfiber, etc. OTOH as they say, 6061 will probably outlast most of
us even if you do nothing unless you are operating in salt water or
something.
Ken

Gary wrote:
I have a question or two about priming the Rebel. First in reading the
letters about Paint Prep and excepted method for preparing the parts is as
follows from Bob P:
"A very common prep method is to use red Scotchbrite pads on
the surface after wetting it with Alumiprep, scrubbing wet, then flushing
thoroughly with water. The surface is then ready for paint when dry.
Alumiprep is a mild etching liquid that eats into surface corrosion
and oil film, baring the metal. You must flush well to remove all of
it !"
1.If the above is do can I prime with Polyfibre Epoxy primer right after the
parts are dry?
2.Is it better to prime before the parts are drilled and debur or
afterwards? I would still prime the mating surfaces before riveting.
3.Because winter is coming and it is getting cold what is the lows temp that
this process could be done at.
4. Because of weight is it better to just prime the mating surfaces and have
the plane coated with "CorrosionX" when completed?

Gary M
Through Adversity To The Stars
712R



-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Paint prep

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:34 pm
by Bob Patterson
Hi Gary !

I was talking about preparing the FINISHED Rebel for painting
on the OUTSIDE ! Don't bother with anything else, except be sure
to brush the Polyfiber Epoxy Primer onto both sides of joints, and
assemble them WET. This will fill any gaps, preventing water from
entering. Also, dip the ends of the rivets before inserting &
pulling them - this will draw the epoxy into the rivet & seal
the stems.

For later protection of the large inside surfaces, you
can use Northern Shield (about $35 will do the whole Rebel), or
Boeshield, or D-29, or any of several different protectants, IF
you think you'll need them. Northern Shield & D-29 are both blown
in as a fog, then harden to a waxy condition & last for many years.
The D-29 needs a second fogging after a day, with a hardener spray,
to work properly. This contrasts with ACF-50, which apparently
drips out over six months to a year, then needs re-spraying.

In any case, as several builders have noted, the 6061-T6
will likely outlast all of us, without any extra help ! :-)

"Get it FLYING - it'll never be FINISHED !!" ;-)

.....bobp


-----------------------------orig.-----------------------------------
At 08:20 PM 11/22/02 -0500, you wrote:
I have a question or two about priming the Rebel. First in reading the
letters about Paint Prep and excepted method for preparing the parts is as
follows from Bob P:
"A very common prep method is to use red Scotchbrite pads on
the surface after wetting it with Alumiprep, scrubbing wet, then flushing
thoroughly with water. The surface is then ready for paint when dry.
Alumiprep is a mild etching liquid that eats into surface corrosion
and oil film, baring the metal. You must flush well to remove all of
it !"
1.If the above is do can I prime with Polyfibre Epoxy primer right after the
parts are dry?
2.Is it better to prime before the parts are drilled and debur or
afterwards? I would still prime the mating surfaces before riveting.
3.Because winter is coming and it is getting cold what is the lows temp that
this process could be done at.
4. Because of weight is it better to just prime the mating surfaces and have
the plane coated with "CorrosionX" when completed?

Gary M
Through Adversity To The Stars
712R


*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe go to http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/listserv.htm
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*



-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Paint prep

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:34 pm
by Gary
Thanks for the information. From what has been said I can surmise that 6061
will last longer then me; but if I still what added protection get the Rebel
sprayed with "Corrosion X", Northern Shield, Boeshield, or D-29. Bob you
where right I was talking about internal parts. From what Ken has said the
polyfibre primer can be applied even if the temp is near freezing temps.
Gary M
Through Adversity To The Stars
712R




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Paint prep

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:41 pm
by David L. Tuck
How have you all prepared for the primer and the paint?
Do you all, acid etch and alodine the bare metal surfaces? before attempting
the primer? or is there another process?
Thanks Dave T/# 009





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Paint prep

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:41 pm
by Reed Britt Civ 309 MXSG/M
Dave - Search the archives for PreKote - Also look at goflyamoose.com
-(Scott Aldrich) - paint



-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of David
L. Tuck
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 6:27 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Paint prep

How have you all prepared for the primer and the paint?
Do you all, acid etch and alodine the bare metal surfaces? before attempting

the primer? or is there another process?
Thanks Dave T/# 009





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------