Lots of questions again
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:02 pm
Do you eventually use the piece of tailcone side skin that you cut away to
make the cargo door? I want to know how careful I have to be cutting this
piece out. In other words, I probably shouldn't drill a hole to start the
cut if I need to use this piece later for the door itself. What's the best
tool to use to cut thin aluminum? My snips leave a curly, wrinkly edge, and
my nibbler cuts a wide slot and mars the surface. My bandsaw works great,
but only for pieces that fit through the saw width. My jigsaw only works on
thick aluminum, like the sills, but mars the surface as well. Don't use a
jigsaw on thin aluminum!
-------------------------------
Hey Bob P.,
A while ago, in response to a question someone asked about putting in the
floor one bay farther back into the tailcone, you mentioned a "trick" of
using thin mylar to transfer holes to the fuse floor. What were you
referring to? Has anyone devised a way to do this in a Super Rebel with the
flap cable in the way?
-------------------------------
I have also found Acetone to be cheaper than MEK and I also noticed that the
description on a can of MEK in the hardware store says to use MEK when a
slower evaporation rate than Acetone is desired. I must say that I like the
fast evaporation rate of Acetone. I don't want to have to wait for it to
evaporate before I scotchbrite.
-------------------------------
Thanks Tom Packard. I ended up bending the cabin to fuselage wraps with my
hands as best I could, then kind of held them in place while drilling and
clecoing carefully until done and this worked pretty well. Your right about
splitting one corner wrap in two, but I fitted each half from the sill just
past bulkhead A and overlapping the front end of the next corner wrap back.
I made no attempt to align corner wrap overlaps with bulkheads. I just laid
in a line of rivets at each overlap wherever it ended up. All corner wraps
are in place now and I still have two pieces left over. I also tried using
an edge roller on a couple of corner wraps like the manual says to, so that
the edges will be pulled down tight on the side skins, but that left a
wrinkly edge and doesn't look near as good as an unrolled corner wrap, so I
stopped edge rolling. Now I have two edge rolled corner wraps with wrinkly
edges and the rest not edge rolled. I am hoping that the extra two corner
wraps I have left over aren't needed elsewhere and I can use them to replace
the edge rolled ones. Anybody know?
Also, as a heads up for SR builders, and maybe Rebel builders if the baggage
area is built the same, the manual has you install angles that run from the
rear of the cabin into the first bay of the tailcone along the shear webs.
Unfortunately, if you follow the instructions you'll end up with angles on
both sides of the shear web and no way to use the prepunched holes in the
shear web to back drill the angles. One angle should be installed and back
drilled through the shear web before the other angle is installed. In fact,
if I had it to do over, I would final drill and rivet the angles on the top
of the shear webs right at the time the angles are first installed. You'll
have to wait on the bottom ones and the outside shear web angles since the
outside ones have to be bent in and aligned parallel with the edges of the
bottom tailcone skin, and the bottom angles need to be seated against the
bottom tailcone skin. Unfortunately, I can't figure out any way to do the
bottom angles on the two center shear webs using the prepunched holes. I
ended up drilling through the angles without using the prepunched holes in
the shear webs as a guide. I was able to roughly mark the location of the
holes and then drill between them to ensure that I wasn't ending up halfway
through a prepunched hole somewhere. A 90 degree angle drill will come in
very handy here too. I don't have one. So I used a long bit passed through
the holes in the outside shear web/angles to drill the inside shear
web/angles. Broke a lot of long bits doing this.
----------------------------------
Hey Rick,
MANGALORE! How could I forget? Lots of fun. My Stinson was white with
brown and maroon accents, and I don't have any gray hair yet at 41. Must
have missed each other. I also don't remember seeing any Murphy products
other than my Renegade Spirit and one other Renegade Spirit there or
anywhere else. Your plane will certainly spur more builders into action!
Ole' Howard Hughes will find some stiff competition for his Lightwings, eh?
Say, can I trouble you for an email address in case I want to reminisce more
about living and flying in Australia without bothering the rest of the list?
Or perhaps the list likes to hear the stories too? I have a couple of hair
raising flying stories from my outback Australia experiences, including
crashing my poor Renegade in the Mountains southwest of Brisbane.
Mike Kimball
SR #044
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make the cargo door? I want to know how careful I have to be cutting this
piece out. In other words, I probably shouldn't drill a hole to start the
cut if I need to use this piece later for the door itself. What's the best
tool to use to cut thin aluminum? My snips leave a curly, wrinkly edge, and
my nibbler cuts a wide slot and mars the surface. My bandsaw works great,
but only for pieces that fit through the saw width. My jigsaw only works on
thick aluminum, like the sills, but mars the surface as well. Don't use a
jigsaw on thin aluminum!
-------------------------------
Hey Bob P.,
A while ago, in response to a question someone asked about putting in the
floor one bay farther back into the tailcone, you mentioned a "trick" of
using thin mylar to transfer holes to the fuse floor. What were you
referring to? Has anyone devised a way to do this in a Super Rebel with the
flap cable in the way?
-------------------------------
I have also found Acetone to be cheaper than MEK and I also noticed that the
description on a can of MEK in the hardware store says to use MEK when a
slower evaporation rate than Acetone is desired. I must say that I like the
fast evaporation rate of Acetone. I don't want to have to wait for it to
evaporate before I scotchbrite.
-------------------------------
Thanks Tom Packard. I ended up bending the cabin to fuselage wraps with my
hands as best I could, then kind of held them in place while drilling and
clecoing carefully until done and this worked pretty well. Your right about
splitting one corner wrap in two, but I fitted each half from the sill just
past bulkhead A and overlapping the front end of the next corner wrap back.
I made no attempt to align corner wrap overlaps with bulkheads. I just laid
in a line of rivets at each overlap wherever it ended up. All corner wraps
are in place now and I still have two pieces left over. I also tried using
an edge roller on a couple of corner wraps like the manual says to, so that
the edges will be pulled down tight on the side skins, but that left a
wrinkly edge and doesn't look near as good as an unrolled corner wrap, so I
stopped edge rolling. Now I have two edge rolled corner wraps with wrinkly
edges and the rest not edge rolled. I am hoping that the extra two corner
wraps I have left over aren't needed elsewhere and I can use them to replace
the edge rolled ones. Anybody know?
Also, as a heads up for SR builders, and maybe Rebel builders if the baggage
area is built the same, the manual has you install angles that run from the
rear of the cabin into the first bay of the tailcone along the shear webs.
Unfortunately, if you follow the instructions you'll end up with angles on
both sides of the shear web and no way to use the prepunched holes in the
shear web to back drill the angles. One angle should be installed and back
drilled through the shear web before the other angle is installed. In fact,
if I had it to do over, I would final drill and rivet the angles on the top
of the shear webs right at the time the angles are first installed. You'll
have to wait on the bottom ones and the outside shear web angles since the
outside ones have to be bent in and aligned parallel with the edges of the
bottom tailcone skin, and the bottom angles need to be seated against the
bottom tailcone skin. Unfortunately, I can't figure out any way to do the
bottom angles on the two center shear webs using the prepunched holes. I
ended up drilling through the angles without using the prepunched holes in
the shear webs as a guide. I was able to roughly mark the location of the
holes and then drill between them to ensure that I wasn't ending up halfway
through a prepunched hole somewhere. A 90 degree angle drill will come in
very handy here too. I don't have one. So I used a long bit passed through
the holes in the outside shear web/angles to drill the inside shear
web/angles. Broke a lot of long bits doing this.
----------------------------------
Hey Rick,
MANGALORE! How could I forget? Lots of fun. My Stinson was white with
brown and maroon accents, and I don't have any gray hair yet at 41. Must
have missed each other. I also don't remember seeing any Murphy products
other than my Renegade Spirit and one other Renegade Spirit there or
anywhere else. Your plane will certainly spur more builders into action!
Ole' Howard Hughes will find some stiff competition for his Lightwings, eh?
Say, can I trouble you for an email address in case I want to reminisce more
about living and flying in Australia without bothering the rest of the list?
Or perhaps the list likes to hear the stories too? I have a couple of hair
raising flying stories from my outback Australia experiences, including
crashing my poor Renegade in the Mountains southwest of Brisbane.
Mike Kimball
SR #044
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