The Murphy Builders Site

G'day

I have spent most of today working on the doors and I have a question.

The manual says to fit strips of .032" strips around the doors, and I guess that that means both top window and the bottom door section.

Now my question is, when I cut the Lexan for the window, could I leave, say, 5/8" or so, extra which would overlap the frame and take the place of the D6 strips?

Seems like a good idea to me!

Regards

Ian Donaldson

In a message dated 7/8/01 6:25:34 AM Central Daylight Time,
allsure@iprimus.com.au writes:

Now my question is, when I cut the Lexan for the window, could I leave, say,
5/8" or so, extra which would overlap the frame and take the place of the
D6 strips?

IAN
That would put the edge of the lexan in harms way dent , bump , ding and it
could start a stress crack that would mean remove & replace the whole window.
Phil&Lisa Smith #460 N414D

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G'day Phil & Lisa


Well that's something that I never thought of! Seemed like a good idea at the time!

Did you put the lexan under or over the hinge, and did you put the D6 strips over or under the lexan?

Regards

Ian Donaldson

In a message dated 7/8/01 7:21:33 AM Central Daylight Time,
allsure@iprimus.com.au writes:

Did you put the lexan under or over the hinge, and did you put the D6 strips
over or under the lexan?

IAN
I put the strips over the lexan. But on the aluminum for the bottom of the
door I put the strips under. Thought it looked better. On the front top and
bottom you will have to play with the radius of the strips so they don't
scrape or bind when you open the doors. You have to file it from zero to full
width at some point so it won't catch and still have a pleasing shape. Also
on my right hand door I put lexan on the bottom front quarter. So 3/4 of the
door is lexan for better visibility out that side. Best of luck on you're
project. It's a VERY good airplane!
Phil&Lisa Smith #460 N414D

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In a message dated 7/8/01 7:45:36 AM Central Daylight Time, LisaFly99@aol.com
writes:

Did you put the lexan under or over the hinge

IAN
SORRY I didn't answer that whole qustion. I put the lexan under the hinges.
Phil&Lisa Smith #460 N414D

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G'day Phil & Lisa

Thanks for your response and your suggestions.

I have a problem in joining the strips at the corners as there is a gap formed between the strips and the curve of the frame .

How did you make the corners look nice?

Regards

Ian Donaldson

In a message dated 7/9/01 7:05:42 AM Central Daylight Time,
allsure@iprimus.com.au writes:

I have a problem in joining the strips at the corners as there is a gap
formed between the strips and the curve of the frame .

IAN
A LOT of patience. If I remember right I cut them a little over size over
lapped the joints and cut both pieces together on the overlap so I knew the
angles would match and they would butt up properly.
Phil&Lisa Smith #460 N414D

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Ian and All,

To do a really nice clean looking door leave the door skin oversize, to be the overlap. That way the body lines of the aircraft are not broken up by the little strips running around the door. Mine has held up without bending for 6+ years, even considering the number of children flights I have done with doors being slammed etc!

I would suggest though, if you are to do this, to make it really bullet proof you can do it the way we did Howard's. We left the skin oversize to be the overlap and then also put the .032 strips between the door frame and the door skin. On final assembly we bonded the .032 strips to the door skin with Proseal, giving a nice solid .048 "door stop".

Another thing to make things look nice, is to continue the crease line on the fuselage side. The tail cone side is creased, as is the Fus-24. But then the Fus-25 is plain, although the door skin is also creased. Looks kind of funny with the Fus-25 plain. For those of you that haven't riveted your FUS-25's on yet. Take a straight edge and continue the crease line from FUS-24, onto FUS-25. Then use a brake (or clamp a couple pieces of metal on the piece) and make a light crease in the part so the crease line is continuous from the door all the way to the back of the aircraft. When are placing the door skin have the crease slightly higher than the one you have made in the FUS-25, to allow for the inevitable sag of the hinges as everyone seems to like to lean on the door top when they are getting in the aircraft! Looks nice and also the crease in FUS-25 helps cut down on oil canning.

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: allsure (allsure@iprimus.com.au)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2001 7:12 AM
Subject: Re: Rebel doors


G'day Phil & Lisa

Thanks for your response and your suggestions.

I have a problem in joining the strips at the corners as there is a gap formed between the strips and the curve of the frame .

How did you make the corners look nice?

Regards

Ian Donaldson

G'day Wayne


Thanks for the response.

Unfortunately your hints have come too late for me! I'm now well past that stage of constuction and have cut the door skins already.

What specifically troubles me is how to make the upper corners of the windows look nice. Where the .032 strips meet they leave quite a gap between them and the radius of the bend in the door frame.

How did you close that gap?

I thought that I might cut a curved piece to follow the radius and cover the gap, and then somehow rivet or glue it over the .032 strips.

Could I use Silastic (Silicone sealant) to glue the bits together?

Regards

Ian Donaldson

Ian, I will try to send you off a couple shots of the door frame on the "Hawaii" Rebel tomorrow. The marine container is finally going to get dropped off for it tomorrow (3 1/2 week wait for it!), so I will be out in the hanger anyhow figuring out how to pack it into a 20 foot box (rudder, tail spring and prop already off to allow squeezing her in!). I will also see if the door frame is done any nicer on the damaged Rebel, that I am currently rebuilding in the work shop, and see if there is a shot or two there I could send you (or post to the list site).

Sounds like you are getting close enough to flight, that we (Leah and I) should think about Australia for this January's trip south!!!!!!!!

Take care,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: allsure (allsure@iprimus.com.au)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2001 6:54 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel doors


G'day Wayne


Thanks for the response.

Unfortunately your hints have come too late for me! I'm now well past that stage of constuction and have cut the door skins already.

What specifically troubles me is how to make the upper corners of the windows look nice. Where the .032 strips meet they leave quite a gap between them and the radius of the bend in the door frame.

How did you close that gap?

I thought that I might cut a curved piece to follow the radius and cover the gap, and then somehow rivet or glue it over the .032 strips.

Could I use Silastic (Silicone sealant) to glue the bits together?

Regards

Ian Donaldson

G'day Wayne

Thanks for the offer to send some pics of those door corners. It will surely make things a little easier to understand.

I hope that you will be travelling to Hawaii to reassemble the Rebel. Seems like a great job to me!


My Rebel is moving along slowly unfortunately. The weather has turned very cold and I don't feel like going into my workshop. Today the maximum temperature was only +15oc..

Wayne, we would be very pleased to see you down under for your January holiday. You would be made very welcome. Same goes for any other Rebel owners. Australia is an unusual place and you would be assured of a great time. If you were spending $US you would have a very cheap holiday! Nice and warm also. The temperature here in January is about +35oc.

Regards

Ian Donaldson

Anybody flying with gull wing style doors? How do you like it? Any safety
problems anybody can think of? I had a fellow tell me today that a Rebel couldn't
pass inspection because if you did gull wing doors you have deviated from the
plans. My reply was that's why it says experimental on the side.
Phil Smith 460R
N414D




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Can't give you a 100% answer for your side of the border Phil, but suggest
it's hogwash! This side of the border we could build the thing backwards, as
a canard, and nobody can do anything about it! )

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <LisaFly99@aol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 21, 2004 5:01 PM
Subject: Re: REBEL Doors

Anybody flying with gull wing style doors? How do you like it? Any safety
problems anybody can think of? I had a fellow tell me today that a Rebel

couldn't

pass inspection because if you did gull wing doors you have deviated from

the

plans. My reply was that's why it says experimental on the side.
Phil Smith 460R
N414D




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Right on, Phil !

What's the guy thinking ??!! Anyway, Curt Martin, up near Detroit,
has been flying with gull wing doors for years - think he passed !! ;-)
You can see a photo of their Rebel on Murphy's site in the completions
area....

......bobp

------------------------------------orig.------------------------------
On Monday 21 June 2004 05:01 pm, LisaFly99@aol.com wrote:

Anybody flying with gull wing style doors? How do you like it? Any safety
problems anybody can think of? I had a fellow tell me today that a Rebel
couldn't pass inspection because if you did gull wing doors you have
deviated from the plans. My reply was that's why it says experimental on
the side.
Phil Smith 460R
N414D




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Phil
We built 2 that way, worked well and I liked them on floats. only 2 things
come to mind as minor problems,they can be a nasty head splitter, and if you
have push up wing fuel drains they will hit them. use pin cup style drains
and no problem. with these drains you can get the door closer to the bottom
of the wing, solves the head splitter problem to. alternate solution is to
cut a hole in your window and install bumped cover. who ever told you the
feds would not approve them is full of it.
using gas struts to hold them open you don't have to have a hold up catch,
and if you set them up right they will over center on closing and help with
latching, don't use that for your only latch.install a latch on the bottom
of the door. things could get ugly if they came open in flight? opening
windows can be made in them just like the Moose has.
Keith MFC
----- Original Message -----
From: <LisaFly99@aol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 21, 2004 3:01 PM
Subject: Re: REBEL Doors

Anybody flying with gull wing style doors? How do you like it? Any safety
problems anybody can think of? I had a fellow tell me today that a Rebel

couldn't

pass inspection because if you did gull wing doors you have deviated from

the

plans. My reply was that's why it says experimental on the side.
Phil Smith 460R
N414D




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