SR building questions
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:02 pm
I am still struggling with how to form the piece on my SR that goes from
the rear of the cabin to the first corner wrap. The part has a near
ninety degree bend at the cabin side that I can easily pull into place
to fit the ninety degree rear cabin point, and the other side has a
slight, continuous curve that is supposed to be increased to match the
curve of the corner wrap. (Why Murphy didn't curve it to match, or at
least be close to begin with beats me!!!). Using a sand bag and a
rubber mallet has been suggested, but I don't know how I would keep the
part smooth doing that. Murphy's manual say hang the piece over the
edge of the table and beat it with a large dowel like a baseball bat.
You've got to be kidding me. Murphy says only do the baseball bat thing
if you don't have a shrinker. I can see how a shrinker would be useful
in getting the edges to fit under the sill on the bottom but I can't see
how a shrinker can be used to form the whole piece to lay flat where it
lays over the corner wrap. Which reminds me. I have four pieces that
have a near ninety degree bend on one side and a slight curve on the
other, to be used at the rear cabin to corner wrap area on the top. Why
four? One on the left and one on the right equals two. They can't be
used on the bottom because that piece needs to be fitted to match the
curve of the sill on one side and the curve of the corner wrap on the
other. Can the side of the piece on the top that is supposed to match
the curve of the corner wrap merely be pulled into place by drilling and
clecoing on the bottom, then working my way up, pulling the curve into
place as I go? I'm sure an english wheel could do the job but I ain't
got that kind of money, and have no idea how to use one anyway.
Help?!
Mike Kimball
SR#044
P.S. I saw two triangular pieces of aluminum, about a quarter inch in thickness,
attached just above the main landing gear attachment on the demonstrator
Super Rebel (the one with the radial) at the show in Anchorage recently.
I assume these have to do with the float attachment. Are these the only
attachments for floats at the main landing gear attachment, or is something
more used, to fit where the landing gear fits as well? If they were the
only things the float struts (is "strut" the right term?) attach to they
seemed inadequate for the loads involved. I was planning on making a standard
"pork chop" attachment that would fit exactly as the landing gear fits, but
would just protrude through the hole enough to attach the float struts.
Assuming I go the pork chop direction, can anyone tell me what kind of steel
and temper would be appropriate?
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
the rear of the cabin to the first corner wrap. The part has a near
ninety degree bend at the cabin side that I can easily pull into place
to fit the ninety degree rear cabin point, and the other side has a
slight, continuous curve that is supposed to be increased to match the
curve of the corner wrap. (Why Murphy didn't curve it to match, or at
least be close to begin with beats me!!!). Using a sand bag and a
rubber mallet has been suggested, but I don't know how I would keep the
part smooth doing that. Murphy's manual say hang the piece over the
edge of the table and beat it with a large dowel like a baseball bat.
You've got to be kidding me. Murphy says only do the baseball bat thing
if you don't have a shrinker. I can see how a shrinker would be useful
in getting the edges to fit under the sill on the bottom but I can't see
how a shrinker can be used to form the whole piece to lay flat where it
lays over the corner wrap. Which reminds me. I have four pieces that
have a near ninety degree bend on one side and a slight curve on the
other, to be used at the rear cabin to corner wrap area on the top. Why
four? One on the left and one on the right equals two. They can't be
used on the bottom because that piece needs to be fitted to match the
curve of the sill on one side and the curve of the corner wrap on the
other. Can the side of the piece on the top that is supposed to match
the curve of the corner wrap merely be pulled into place by drilling and
clecoing on the bottom, then working my way up, pulling the curve into
place as I go? I'm sure an english wheel could do the job but I ain't
got that kind of money, and have no idea how to use one anyway.
Help?!
Mike Kimball
SR#044
P.S. I saw two triangular pieces of aluminum, about a quarter inch in thickness,
attached just above the main landing gear attachment on the demonstrator
Super Rebel (the one with the radial) at the show in Anchorage recently.
I assume these have to do with the float attachment. Are these the only
attachments for floats at the main landing gear attachment, or is something
more used, to fit where the landing gear fits as well? If they were the
only things the float struts (is "strut" the right term?) attach to they
seemed inadequate for the loads involved. I was planning on making a standard
"pork chop" attachment that would fit exactly as the landing gear fits, but
would just protrude through the hole enough to attach the float struts.
Assuming I go the pork chop direction, can anyone tell me what kind of steel
and temper would be appropriate?
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------