Hi Bruce !
Oh, well ..... lots of people are flying around hapilly with
the spring gear. I would definitely follow those who have made up
solid pieces to fill the bottom tubes - this will add strength and
crush resistance, and spare you grief later. Also, double check
those gear bolts for correct torque, as the factory suggests.
Dave Bangle (SubieLyc) actually ENCOURAGES people to buy bits
and pieces and assemble his mounts and drives, as this makes them
more knowledgable, and better equipped to maintain the installation.
It should fit into the speed cowl (although you <know> that <I> would
just chuck it, and get something that would make maintenance possible ! ;-) )
If you do the Lyc., ask here before you mount the oil cooler -
there is a much better way than suggested in the manual. Also, be
sure to seal the space between the scoop and the carb. air filter
with rubber - otherwise, you'll likely have cooling problems.
Sounds like you've got the "optional high panel" off the Elite.
If you like it, fine - otherwise, <I'd> rather see more of the REAL
horizon. You really can't use much of that space near the top anyway,
because of the slope, and it will likely make windshield installation
a bit more difficult. In any case, I would run a 1 1/2" aluminum angle
strip all along the bottom of the panel, to stiffen it, and mount
the throttle, mixture, primer, etc. on it. The panel IS structural.
You will find it easier to work on, and better for the life of the
instruments, if you cut the holes slightly oversize, and mount the
instruments on a separate 'floating' panel with shock mounts at
the corners. The same idea will make the electrical panel on the
left angle MUCH easier to work on. The electrics don't have to float,
the panel can be secured with 2 piano hinges top & bottom....
It's just SO much easier to swing this down & wire, rather than
crawling in over that control tube and working upside down on
your back under the panel !!
The corner wraps are on the bottom AND the top corners - both
are important, as they get a lot of loading from the engine. The oldest
ones were called FUS-10, and were .020 - later ones were FUS-70, and
were .025 (these are OK). Now they are supplying (FUS-542 ???) the
wraps from the Elite, and they are .032 - this is thicker than you
really need, and harder to work with, but it saves the factory
inventory hassles by just using one part for all models. (and
as everyone says - a little extra thickness won't hurt ;-) )
These same wraps are used at the back of the cabin area,
and, if you're feeling really ambitious, or they're not on yet,
it would be good to upgrade those as well.
Welcome to the "Rebel Builders group" - we hope we'll always
be friendly and helpful. We have SO much FUN flying our Rebels,
we're unlikely to turn into snobs !! ;-)
......bobp
---------------------------------orig.-----------------------------------
At 09:06 AM 5/27/01 -0700, you wrote:
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Hello Bob,
Too late, The tabs are cut off. Will do whatever mods and run the spring gear.
I been looking at the SubieLyc engine setup, If I could buy bits and
pieces and build up my own engine and save a few bucks would help. Would the
Subaru fit in the speed cowl? Anyway this project came with the Lyc. FWF
package. Oil cooler, Exhuast, Alt, Ect. So unless I sell all that I am
farther ahead to just use Lyc. I guess.
The float hard points are installed and float fix mod is done. I have
reserched all the other mods and plan to do them as well. Did not know about
the front corner wraps, I will check them out. (If you mean the ones on the
bottom between the firewall and carrythroughs). One is rivited on already. I
will do a good check of the wings and tanks now i know what to look for.
Thanks Bob and to a great group of people on the list. (The RV crowd that I
have been involved with for 16 years has got so big that it lost that "small
town" feel that you guys still have) Look forward to meeting some day.
Bruce
Hi Bruce !
If the spring gear isn't installed yet, and the tabs haven't
been cut off, you could still go with the bungee gear - it might be
worth it ! If it's on already, check the archives - Alister has
done some pretty radical fixes, including solid inserts for the
bottom tubes to give crush resistance ....
Dave Bangle, at SubieLyc, supplies a Subaru that fits right onto
Lycoming mounts - worth a look. No reason you couldn't do what Rick
Harper has done, and use the Thorp T-18 nosebowl & metal sides for
your cowling. (Hey Rick - could you please post some 3/4 front photos
of that cowl when you can spare a minute from having fun flying ??!! ;-) )
You should check for the tail support mod that Wayne suggested -
it's almost certain that wasn't done. You also might want to do the
"Ontario mods" - an extra wrap around the extreme rear tailcone, to
tie the rudder post, stab, and front tailspring bolt together, replace
the FUS-27 side skins under the doors with duplicates of .032, and
replace door frame channels with the thicker (.032) ST-28 (were ST-31),
and a few extra ST-31 channels under the floor, in the baggage area,
and under the seat rails .....
Do all of the "Floatfix" mods.
Take Wayne's suggestion and minimize the windshield overhang -
and it wouldn't hurt to use .018 stainless there ! Make sure you
grind enough off of the windshield near the top so it doesn't touch the
triangular supports, or it will crack !
When rigging, make sure you have at least 27 degrees of UP
elevator.
You might want to check the thickness of the front corner
wraps (FUS-10 or FUS-70) - they should be at least .025, or replace
them with new ones (the latest ones are .032 - can't remember the number,
but it's something like FUS-542 ??)
I'm assuming the tanks have been tested and don't leak - you
should find out asap ! And - it's not a pleasant possibility -
but you should check, with a mirror & light, to see that all the stringers
do indeed run right through the tank area. There HAVE been Rebels
built without them !! Needless to say, they wouldn't fly very far
like that !!!!
Congratulations, and Good Luck !!
.....bobp
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